3/14: Came back from a 4 day vacation to a lot of dry, wilted, dead leaves on Amnesia. Trainwreck is super starved as well. My automatic watering system didn't kick on, and the humidifier ran out of water within 24 hours, so there's that. It may be for the better though, as the PH of the nutrients had risen to 7.5. I tossed that mix, and made another 2 gallons of half strength nutes, molasses and epsom salt. I watered them both to runoff, and now I'll wait for Amnesia to prioritize which leaves she thinks are worth saving, and then I'll defoliate the dead ones. Hopefully trainwreck will just bounce back to green. She needed to be defoliated anyway, so this situation makes it easier for me to find the dead leaves. Edit: Came back to feed the last of the nutes and decided to pluck the crispy goners. I found that pulling the leaf stem downward will make the most dead leaves fall right off, allowing me to test a majority of the leaves and give Amnesia a major haircut. Luckily I left a lot of leaves from prior defoliation, as Amnesia REALLY sucked them dry. 3/15: Amnesia looks no worse for wear than last night. Trainwreck as well. Went ahead and pulled as many dead leaves off Trainwreck as I could. Some leaves were a mix of crispy brown and healthy green, which I think is pretty goofy, so I avoided taking any green fans but removed the crispy ones. The colors of the leaves around the buds are really fun to look at. 3/16: Amnesia is starting to SHED her dead leaves, allowing me to pick the leaves with almost no effort. I tested as many leaves as I could, giving another haircut. I would say this isn't a good thing, but since it's my first grow, I'm rolling with it. As long as Amnesia keeps the buds and its nearest leaves alive, it will slowly grow, albeit stunted. I'm not sure if this condition will cause it to finish sooner, but I'm going to need to watch the trichomes under a microscope every couple of days just in case she's ready for harvest. Trainwreck looks about the same as it did before. No new leaves are ready to be removed there yet. 3/19: Amnesia is still shedding leaves, but also bulking up. Trainwreck is slowly bulking up, and turning purple as well! Going to keep an eye on Amnesia's trichomes. Edit: because amnesia is yellowing so much, and because it's been 5 days, I'm going to feed both plants a quarter strength nutrient mix just in case I've been overfeeding them somehow.

still seeing bud swelling and pistil growth. no visible fade yet.. vase cutting finally started to fade.... going to taper back to the boost only now going forward and ensure it doesnt dry out.. can see a bit more of its sativa traits in the bud structure now too which is interesting

Bewässerung: 1000 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Neunten Woche pH-Wert: 6 EC-Wert: 1.2 mS/cm Temperatur: 30ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 50% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen von befall wir haben nur mal zur Prävention etwas Sand gegen die Schnecken um die Pflanze gemacht, dies verhindert das diese sich nähern. Wir haben aber auch Raubmilben ins spiel gebracht zur vorsorge gegen Spinnmilben und andere Schädlinge 😷 PPFD: Direktes Sonnenlicht DLI: Direktes Sonnenlicht -Tag 59 auch hier sieht es nicht so besonders aus, dafür aber wird die Space Cookies #3 umso besser :) -Tag 60 Die Space Cookies #3 macht sich ganz gut, und man kann schon ihren Geruch war nehmen, sie wurde wieder mit jauche gegossen.

So far so hairy... 🙏 Hello everyone, another week of flowering, you can already see how the white hair begins to grow beautifully and slowly turn into buds. I think I screwed up the description of which day it is, but when I finally find some time, I will try to verify it for you. All the best, You Lovely Girls Growers 😇

Super busy with a move and a big garden reno. Sorry, this is the only update for this week

25..05.2022 die Gorilla Auto war eigentlich ein Versuchobjekt um so ein paar Dinge bei der Keimung zu testen. Ich hatte ihr die Hälfte der Pfahlwurzel schon im Papiertuch zum Keimen aus Versehen abgerissen. Irgendwie mochte ich die kleine, behinderte Gorilla aber sehr und habe sie aufgezogen. Sie ist sehr kleinwüchsig aber sieht, trotz des massiven Schadens sehr gesund aus. - Ich habe ihr neues Equipment gekauft, welches ich zukünftig zur Anzucht nutzen werde. 40x40cm Zelt und SANlight Q1W 50 Watt - Die Gorilla hat ihre ersten Wochen im größeren Zelt erst alleine und dann ein wenig Zeit zusammen mit den Gorilla Zkittlez Automatics (ja, die mit dem beschissenen Magnesium Mangel) in meinem anderen Tagebuch verbracht.

Seedling managing 93F 30%RH, around 20 DLI. Vpd is in the 3's. No I don't recommend. Signum Magnum. "A great sign appeared in the sky a woman clothed with the sun with the moon under her feet and on her head a crown of twelve stars. Sing ye to the Lord a new canticle: because He has done wonderful things. Glory to the Father, and to the Son, and to the Holy Spirit As it was in the beginning, and now, and ever shall be, world without end." The plant nutrient nitrogen exists in forms with both positive and negative charges. Ammonium (NH4+)(immobile in soil)(Cation) has a positive charge, while nitrate (NO3-) (highly mobile in soil)(Anion)has a negative charge. Nitrogen is unique among plant nutrients in that it can exist in both positively charged (ammonium, NH₄⁺) and negatively charged (nitrate, NO₃⁻) forms in the soil. This makes it a special nutrient. In that it is responsible for providing balance for reactionary trade offs when it comes to ph. Because ph itself in the medium will always slowly drift towards acidicity, such is nature. 80% of nitrogen should be nitrate and no more than 20% ammoniacal nitrogen. Ca, mg, and K are the big 3 cations related to soil composition, pH & base saturation. When nitrogen is in the form of ammonium, it can compete with calcium, magnesium, and potassium for absorption sites in the plant root. This competition can lead to a reduction in the uptake of these other essential nutrients. Nitrogen, particularly in its nitrate form (NO3-), can increase soil acidity, which can also affect the availability of calcium, magnesium, and potassium. The form of nitrogen applied (ammonium vs. nitrate) can influence its interactions with other nutrients. Ammonium nitrogen can have a more pronounced negative effect on the uptake of calcium, magnesium, and potassium compared to nitrate nitrogen. Common forms of ammonium nitrogen include ammonium ion (NH4+), urea, and ammonium compounds like ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, and ammonium phosphate. Common forms of nitrate nitrogen include potassium nitrate (KNO3), sodium nitrate (NaNO3), calcium nitrate (Ca(NO3)2), and ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3). Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and its availability in the soil is strongly linked to the presence of oxygen. Plants primarily absorb phosphorus as phosphate (PO4), and oxygen is a key component of this molecule. Furthermore, the availability of phosphorus in the soil can be impacted by factors like soil aeration and temperature, which in turn affect the oxygen supply to the roots. Phosphorus uptake in plants is most critical during the early stages of growth, particularly within the first few weeks of plant development. Young plants actively growing tissues have a high demand for phosphorus. They may absorb up to 75% of their total phosphorus requirements within the first few weeks of vegetative growth, with up to 51% of uptake happening overnight, primarily in the first few hours or early nightfall. ⑨Anaerobic root respiration, or respiration without oxygen, is detrimental to plants because it's less efficient and produces toxic byproducts, leading to reduced energy production, nutrient uptake issues, and ultimately, root damage and plant stress. ⑨Anaerobic respiration, unlike aerobic respiration, doesn't utilize oxygen as the final electron acceptor in the electron transport chain. This results in a significant drop in the amount of energy (ATP) produced, which is necessary for various plant functions, including growth, nutrient uptake, and maintenance of cellular processes. ⑨In the absence of oxygen, plants produce byproducts like ethanol and lactic acid during anaerobic fermentation. These byproducts can be toxic to the roots and inhibit their function, ⑨When oxygen is depleted in a medium, the pH tends to decrease (become more acidic) due to the production of metabolic byproducts. This is particularly relevant in biological systems where aerobic respiration relies on oxygen as the final electron acceptor. ⑨When oxygen is scarce, plants may switch to anaerobic respiration. This process produces carbon dioxide (CO2) as a byproduct. ⑨CO2 dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO3). This acid lowers the pH of the medium, making it more acidic. ⑨Anaerobic conditions can impair a plant's ability to regulate its internal pH, leading to a drop in cytoplasmic pH and potentially cellular acidosis. ⑨The change in pH can also affect the availability of certain nutrients to the plant, as pH influences the solubility of micronutrients like iron, manganese, zinc, copper, and boron. ⑨The lack of oxygen in the plant medium leads to a decrease in pH due to the production of carbon dioxide during anaerobic respiration and impaired pH regulation within the plant. In plant cells, cellular acidosis, a drop in the internal pH of the cytosol, is a significant stress response, particularly during conditions like flooding or hypoxia. This acidification can be triggered by a decrease in oxygen levels, leading to the production of metabolic byproducts like lactic acid and CO2. The plant's ability to tolerate and recover from these conditions depends on its cellular mechanisms to regulate pH and mitigate the effects of acidosis. When plants are subjected to low oxygen environments, such as those experienced during flooding, anaerobic metabolism, which produces lactic acid and ethanol, becomes the primary source of energy. This can lead to a build-up of these acidic metabolites in the cytosol, causing a drop in pH. OXYGEN Atomic oxygen (single oxygen atom, O) is the lightest form of oxygen, as it has the lowest mass of the oxygen molecules. Oxygen also exists as a diatomic molecule (O2) and an allotrope called ozone (O3), which have higher masses due to the number of oxygen atoms combined. Atomic Oxygen (O): This refers to a single oxygen atom, which is the most fundamental form of oxygen. Molecular Oxygen (O2): This is the common form of oxygen we breathe, consisting of two oxygen atoms bonded together. Ozone (O3): This is an allotrope of oxygen, meaning it's a different form of the same element, consisting of three oxygen atoms bonded together. Since atomic oxygen has the fewest oxygen atoms, it naturally has the lowest mass compared to O2 or O3. Ozone (O3) Lifespan: Ozone has a relatively long lifespan in the stratosphere, particularly at lower altitudes. For example, at 32 km in the middle latitudes during spring, ozone has a lifetime of about 2 months. Oxygen (O) Lifespan: Atomic oxygen, on the other hand, has a much shorter lifespan. At the same altitude, its lifetime is about 4/100ths of a second. Ozone-Oxygen Cycle: The ozone-oxygen cycle involves the rapid exchange between atomic oxygen (O) and ozone (O3). UV radiation can split molecular oxygen (O2) into atomic oxygen (O), which then reacts with O2 to form ozone (O3). Ozone can also be photolyzed by UV radiation, creating atomic oxygen again, which can then react with O3 to reform O2. Dominant Form: The partitioning of odd oxygen (Ox) between ozone and atomic oxygen favors ozone in the lower stratosphere. This means that a much larger proportion of odd oxygen exists as ozone than as atomic oxygen, especially in the lower stratosphere. Recombination: Atomic oxygen has a high energy and reactivity. When it encounters another oxygen atom, they can combine to form O2. This process releases energy, contributing to the heating of the atmosphere. Ozone Formation: Atomic oxygen can also react with molecular oxygen (O2) to form ozone (O3). Ozone plays a significant role in absorbing harmful UV radiation. Other Reactions: Atomic oxygen can react with various other molecules in the atmosphere, like nitrogen (N2), water (H2O), and carbon dioxide (CO2), forming different compounds. UV light below 240nm (peak 185nm) creates ozone (O₃) through a process called photolysis, where UV light breaks down dioxygen molecules (O₂) into single atomic oxygen atoms (O). These single oxygen atoms then react with other oxygen molecules to form ozone (O₃). Specifically, UV-C light with wavelengths shorter than 240 nm can cause this photolysis. UV light with wavelengths between 240-280 nm, (peak 254 nm) breaks down ozone (O₃) into dioxygen molecules (O₂) and atomic oxygen atoms (O). 280nm does not have the energy potential to break apart the stable bond of (O₂) into enough (O) to make (O₃) At ground level, atomic oxygen (single oxygen atoms) has a very short lifespan. This is because it's highly reactive and quickly combines with other molecules to form stable diatomic oxygen (O2) or other compounds. While the exact timeframe varies depending on the specific circumstances, its lifespan is typically measured in nanoseconds or picoseconds.

Day 29, Too many bugs! Mini grasshoppers and one of those leaf tunneling bugs, as well as a respiratory bug within myself! I’ve taken care of the bug inside myself, now time for the Diatomaceous Earth!!!! And to get that bug out of that leaf! Still feeding a little cal mag. I think it’s necessary. Day 31 - Day 1F Going to ramp it up from 1mg to 3mg per Gal of CalMag OAC. I will top dress something special, maybe the mother earth acid mix, or maybe I will do a seabird guano with insect frass and top it off with an Epsom Salt solution feed. I’m trying to practice using less of a branded store-bought approach. But to source everything is so much easier out of a store bought package, so for now, I might just do a small amount of seabird and insect frass, maybe just a super small sprinkle on the soil surface, not in water. Day 5 of flower: and WTF is up with this foul weather. Only 46 degrees Fahrenheit! (7.8 C) Cloudy with 15-20 mph winds. Gonna drop to 29 tonight… this is ridiculous. I don’t have access to the tent at this time, so it’s cold weather today. I could bring her inside where it’s warmer, and there is no light! Or those house lights put out only a few candelas worth, not exactly light for a plant. Do she would just stretch and go hungry inside. I’m leaving her outside. Bringing her in over night obviously! But not much growth is expected. Just gotta roll with the punches. I thought we were flowering this week, but barely small preflower development. So this is switched back to a Veg week.

Each plant has been watered/fed, with a glug or two, from a 1 gallon mixture of 1tsp/gal floranova-grow (ph7). Mother plants are definitely ready for a pruning/cloning!

Because of how early I topped her, the base was very dense with foliage so I did some defoliation. You can see the four main branches (2 of which were topped) and the central FIM with its supercropping scars in the 4th pic. Still running a 1000w MH bulb at 50%. Looking at getting a SMLED/COB LED combo light to replace my cool tube and associated fans and ducting. Water level was down to 50%. I'll have to start topping up. July 04 I rearranged my setup a bit while switching the MH bulb for the HPS. I think next run I'm going to grow 2 autoflowers and stagger them and try to run a perpetual harvest. I'm going to try to stick with the HID lights if I can manage the heat effectively. It was working well when I had the 6" cooltube and the 4" carbon filter exhausting out the window, but now that the smell is more intense, I don't want any air going out except through the carbon filter. I've thought about running filter-->fan-->cooltube-->outside but they're different sizes so it would lose efficiency. I've also thought about running clean air from outside the tent through the cooltube and then outside as it was intended, but I just don't think that's going to work with the space. July 05 I noticed shiny spots on the leaves which seems to indicate I have thrips. I can't see any actual larvae even with my glasses on, but the sucked out spots are fairly distinctive and I can see small black particles that must be excrement. Temperature seems pretty good in there and humidity is ok at about 45%. I have some peppermint Dr Bronner's castile soap so I made a foliar spray of insecticidal soap by just pouring a few drops into a big spray bottle. Just worried about when to spray so I don't burn the plant. Just checked the reservoir and temp is 26c, PPM 860, Ph 6.5. I'm going to add plain water and try to bring the Ph back down to 5.5. It's possible that what I'm seeing is due to the Ph being too high. I'm going to start checking the Ph at least every couple days. It's annoying to unclip all the training wires every time I open the reservoir. It's also not very convenient to fill it. It's at an awkward height. I like the 5 gallon bucket because it was easy to set up and understand but I might be better off with a different type of reservoir. 3:45pm I just sprayed the underside of one section of leaves, I'll see how that section does under the lights. My concern is that if I spray under the lights, it will burn, but if I spray at night, it could cause mold. Hopefully I can get away with spraying all the leaves once or twice a week and it will go away. July 06 She looks ok but I'm thinking it might be a Ph issue. Ph was 6.2 so I decided to just pitch the water and start again. I changed my method so I'm mixing the nutrients in the actual bucket the plant lives in and testing it there, instead of mixing in another bucket and pouring it into the DWC. Ph is now 5.7 and PPM 700. July 08 just noticed that RH is 70% when the lights come on. I feel like I'm going to need a solution for overnight humidity. Maybe dry rid bags. Rh is 60% after a couple hours. Leaf, solution, and substrate temp down to 24 which is nice. Ph is back up to 6.3 again! I pH downed some tap water to 4 and added that to the reservoir. July 09 Pistils just started coming out :) The Ph is still back up to 6.3 again but PPM is 750. I'm going to change the res again and lower the nutrient content a bit.

Average stem height of the big ones are 36 inches, but the mishap past week with the lights might have stressed em a bit and caused some stretching. There was also a humidity issue for a few hours, which could be the culprit for the stretching. Two stems are pushing 40 inches. However, there are no signs of light or heat stress, despite the stems getting within inches of the leds. We shall see... I’m also battling a cold Canadian winter where it hit -42 Celsius today. Plants are in a cold basement in an old house. Had to bring out an extra space heater. Can’t get the temp in my tent above 20. Tent is too packed to introduce a stand up heater. Maybe I’ll convince the plants that fall is coming and they need to bud like crazy.

How RQS Compares to Your Standouts Brothers Grimm (your "otherworldly" stars: Montel Iced Tea, Body Count, Bubbles Blueberry F4, Ricky’s Hash Plant, Black Tangi Tea) These are landrace-influenced, heirloom-style genetics with exceptional resin, unique flavors, and structure. They outperform RQS in quality, potency, and "wow" factor in your tents. RQS tends to be more commercial/hybridized for ease and yield, while Brothers Grimm prioritizes distinctive traits and consistency in experienced hands. Humboldt Seed Company autos (your top autos for resin, especially OG Triploid) Humboldt focuses on West Coast legacy genetics with heavy resin production. Clearly superior to RQS autos in trichome density and overall quality. RQS autos are faster and easier for beginners but often lack the resin "frost" and depth you get from Humboldt. Fast Buds (fast, flavorful, reliable autos — you like them a lot) Excellent speed and flavor profiles. You noted they're in a "different class" — fair point. Fast Buds emphasizes quick cycles and modern hybrids with nice terps, while RQS autos can feel more generic or require more coaxing. Quick Thoughts on Your Observations Brothers Grimm (Montel Iced Tea, Bubbles Blueberry F4, etc.): These are clearly the stars in your current setup. The strong smell, unique leaf morphology, and overall vigor in small pots show they're expressing well under your conditions. They reward careful growing with quality that feels special — resin, flavor complexity, and effects that fit your low-dose, functional style better than most commercial lines. Your homemade cross (Gelato 44 × Bubbles Blueberry F4 pollen = "Blueberry Knockout"): Nice work on your first intentional cross-pollination! Getting viable seeds and decent plants from a garage-level cross is a real win. It’s not "pretend breeding" — it’s exactly how many great lines started. The fact that it turned out "pretty nice" is encouraging. However, as you noted, combining a Royal Queen Seeds Gelato 44 (solid but commercial) with Brothers Grimm Bubbles Blueberry F4 (higher-quality, more unique genetics) creates a hybrid that can show the best of both, but also some inconsistency. If the RQS side brings easier growth but less depth, while the Brothers Grimm side brings the special traits, the offspring can be hit-or-miss depending on which phenos you kept. RQS Gelato 44 / Mike Tyson 2.0 vs. Brothers Grimm: Your experience matches what many growers report. RQS lines are generally more "user-friendly" and higher-yielding for beginners or volume grows, but they often lack the resin density, terpene complexity, and unique expressions you get from Brothers Grimm. The Tyson 2.0 collaboration added hype, but in your tents it landed at 7/10 while Brothers Grimm hit "otherworldly." That gap in quality is why you're leaning toward sticking with the professional, boutique genetics going forward. 3/30 11:17PM Gelato 44 & Punch Pie were nice right off the tree the little buds put me right to sleep last night!! The Autos are 7-10 but the Photos are 8/10

=) all smiles week 8 of flowering for just four of them. Gg4 coming down Tom Along with tangiematic! Glueberry as well Sweet creme may go a few more days well see Ogesus number 1 and two will start getting flushed soon =) along with royal haze and amensia haze number 2 a week after. Forgotten cookies by mephisto look amazing =) my god look at that frost level. Took down 3 sample branches crying in the same closet as my first grow temps and humidity are perfect =). Also started off my 3rd grow have 7 new plants introduced flavors are 4assed monkeys Lsd-25 Grapey walter Gold glue Blue toof Avt alien vs trangle Double grape =)

Just starting week 5 will keep updating as I go been having a couple issues lately with some of the top fan leaves, they've been starting to get a couple brown spots on 3-4 of the fan leaves not sure what the problem is yet if anyone has any suggestions let me know. Update: Just ordered in a new ph meter from Apera I'm pretty sure my cheap $15 dollar ph meter was all sorts of messed up. UPDATE: ec going in .7 runoff ec .86, ph going in 5.7 runoff ph 6.6 I'll see if the ph goes down now that I have the new ph meter my old one was definitely off. UPDATE: Got the EC down to .4 gonna start slowly introducing nutrients back in, also got the medium pH down to 6.1 from 6.6. Finishing up week 5 think I've gotten things under control now just need to get my EC back up now showing a couple signs up deficiencies on some leaves but nothing too bad, I'm thinking Week 6 will start flower. Did a Flush this Week now looking back on it I shouldn't have done that that caused my plant to go into a deficiency, what I should've done was not flush with half strength nutes I should've used normal strength nutes but just lower the ph more that was the real problem.

End of week 4 and I have a bit more to report this week. On day 22 I topped this girl and she was a little slow to react, turns out my thermometer was in a bad spot and the girls were getting hammered by the heater 🤦‍♂️ lesson learned. Since re-positioning the thermometer they have bounced back and happy as Larry again, thank goodness. On day 27 i had brewed up my first compost tea and fed them a bit more than usual. The tea had a cup of Herbi's brew starter, a cup of work castings and a cup of organic compost. They loved it. I used the remains as a top dress afterwards. Today, on day 28, I defoliated and started LST, she's praying to the lights right now and I'm stoked! Hope you've all had a good week and thanks for checking in 🙏

best cannabis I ever grew and smoked. Others agree. This is a cup winner I would win with no competition. 3 months harvested, 90% consumed. Will run more genetics and future cross, backcross. Feels like energy drinks, positive, 100% youre high and lit, extreme ripped. Smell is slight citrus, this is very sweet tasting and smelling because of my methods of growing. Oozing sticky like an industrial adhesive. Daytime smoke, ripped no couchlock. For heavy daily smoker this is above your level of comprehension, good luck finishing 0.5g session. 10/10 all categories. 4 months after harvest video macro, this is what 40% looks like

Jack herer auto is growing great for only having 100 watts. She is doing good with the Athena blended line nutrition. She is currently bulking, and has a great resin layer on her. Everything is looking great at the moment. Thank you ILGM, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Hey everyone 😀. A week with a wonderful development is over again 😃. I decided to stay in the vegi for another 10-14 days and to top it off a few more times. Then it is put into bloom. Until then, I wish you all the best 🙏🏻. You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/3271-zamnesia-seeds-blue-dream-feminisiert.html Type: Blue Dream ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry x Haze 20% Indica / 80% Sativa 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Day 22 everything seems to be ok 😃👌 Day 23 still growing good 😃👌 Day 24 there is an upgrade with LED light... Spider Farmer SE1500 😃👌 the old light wasn´t good enough 😛👊 Day 25 the ladies are in well shape and a bag of CO2 also added 😂😃👍 Day 26 need to cut some of those big leaves... wish me luck 😲🙏