Temps dropping fast and waiting to if they finish.

Girls getting bigger, color looks good, everything on point at this time Feeding every 2-3 days with 1.2-1.3EC 380PPFD - 25DLI Nothing much to say, I’m just happy that I managed problems I had

The three Bruce Banner Autos are each showing their own character this week 😅. #1 is still the champ – so vigorous that I started some LST to open her up. She reacted perfectly and is already taking up a good part of the tent.💪🔥 #2 finally seems to have found her rhythm and is starting to grow more steadily. #3 is still very small with barely any progress compared to her sisters.🐌 They are all growing in their 90×90 tent equipped with the full AC Infinity setup (AI controller, fans, filters) and running under a Spider Farmer SE5000. Conditions are very stable thanks to the climate control: temps around 26–27 °C and humidity steady.🌡️💧 This week they only got RO water + CalMag (Advanced Nutrients). Their first Orgatrex feeding was already given last week.🌿 Overall: Bruce Banner #1 is leading the way, #2 is on the right track now, and #3 still lags behind. Curious to see how they will behave as they move closer to the first signs of flower.👀✨

Hey guys what's up ? Today we're feeding sweet gelato Also we're adding extra LST To secure the lady and make her grow even some more ✓ She's doing good, taking her time Now she's comfortable in that big pot She's got a mega mix soil w a lil bit of everything good for her to develop well thru the stages Also we've got good temp and good humidity lvl For now on just gotta keep feeding them and securing LST because soon she will become a monster and if we miss one day it's going to be really hard to follow, sometimes LST can be really hard to do and takes tons of your time but all of it is beautiful :) Alright guys I guess I will keep you up date if something comes up!

Only misted with water.

Not doin very well. Foliared it with GH synthetic and gave it calmag 2 days ago. The fim didnt take so i topped it. Growing slow not sure what else is there other plants in solos i got look greener. Removed then affected fan leaves. @Seedsman CBD CNC is doin killer. I picked 1/2 fem moms. Other ill grow on window sill for fun.

What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.

J’attends encore que zen x swag dévoile son sexe Quackberry rose se porte bien avtu

The colours are popping! I’ve started to taper off the nutrients, I don’t typically “flush” the plants, but rather taper nutrients down until I have been able to give straight phd water for the last 3-4 feeds, making sure to water until I get about 5-10% runoff. I’ve tried both methods , the other being that I pour like 10 gallons of water through the plant, and I can’t tell the difference with my smoke, still clean and very tasty. I did a small defoliation at the end of the week, and added a support pole for the 1 lady in the far back, she was already starting to lean… just a couple of weeks to go !

Lately I've been obsessed with photoperiod plants and the topping technique all very nice but you can't forget the Fastbuds autoflowers either. The Cindarella was a very particular plant, it did not grow very tall but very plump and chubby and the particularity is a fantastic main cola (another thing I reluctantly give up if I do topping), it has two horns like a devil or rather three but two are predominant and are fantastic. really. top. Resin in rivers as usual. Smell like a Weed Spirit. Music of the Week - Gerorge Clinton to get crazy bud. Radio Nula from Slovenia the rest of the time. Light >> Marshydro SP3000 AT 90% of Power Tent >> Marshydro 120x60x180 Check IG >> https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/ Buy >> marshydroled.aliexpress.com https://2fast4buds.com/

This Cookie had 2 translplants and more than enaught time to veg its the biggest plant I have grown so far leets see what this girl can do!!! Sadly at the end of my last grow my living situation changed rapidly... So I wasnt able to keep up the Diary cause I had to moove but I have a new flat now and things are going their way again! Now that I have a time again new diaries will come! So happy to be back youre Friendly Neighbor

Plants are doing and looking beautiful. Plants look like they fully recovered from the previous weeks mishaps.. Buds are developing nicely at this point And every day I notice them slightly bigger .. I'm noticing the smell get stronger day by day as well Keeping temp at 76-78 and humidity at 45% At the end of week 3 I will run 7L of pure r20 ph@6 through the autopot system , to let any accumulated salts from the hoses and roots flush out . The plants should use up 7L in about 2 days and then I will continue with my regular feedings probably on day 3 of week 4 Also the weather has been getting warmer the last few days and after adding the 2 new lights the temps are getting higher in my tent .. Added 8inch Vortex inline fan to bring fresh air from outside on a controller that shuts on or off depending on temp

Esta sera la ultima semana en vegetativo , despues cambiaremos el fotoperiodo a 12/12 y empezaremos con la etapa de floracion, solo hemos aplicado lst

Veg for 8 weeks Dew to writing the wrong date down. lol. .which means flowering didn't start till week 10. So this only week 5 of Flower (Total weeks of grow 15) I try to let them make it to at least week 7 for flower But it will depend on Trichomes & Pistil's ---The Buds--- Denseness 7/10 Stickiness 4/10 Smell 6/10 ---Trichomes--- Clear 15% --GOAL 0% Cloudy 30% --GOAL 20% Amber 55% --GOAL 80% ---Pistil's--- White 60% --GOAL 0% Amber 40% -- GOAL 100%

Ladies are looking and smelling amazing, truly zenzational! You can notice the different phenos that came out. One is pure zkittlez while the other three in bud structure are sweet zenzation (zkittlez x grape ape) in those three two of them smell like grape juice. Hope that turns out like some fine red wine taste when cured. Dropped the amount of water a bit and also nutrients. From next week onward only water.

The best genetics with the best nutrients

10/2 They made it to their forever pots. Next Saturday we'll be hitting 2 months from sprout and as a whole its been a pleasure to grow these plants. They all are a very healthy green and seem to be happy. Temperatures in the region may have unexpectedly slowed them down (I grow in a basement) because temps have plummeted from around 78 with the lights on to as low as 71! I don't think they like it either. Growth has slowed with it. Never fear, space heater is here. Everything thing needs to be dialed in for the next few weeks because I want explosive growth over the next 21 days. Going to try a SST somewhere in there. Parsing through all this bro science isn't easy but it sure is fun to experiment. It allegedly gives you good root growth and provides crucial enzymes. Almost sounds too good to be true but I'm going to see how it goes regardless. I heard you can use I wide variety of seeds but alpha alpha is the only one I have on hand. Wish me luck. As for the plants: Moby= beast. I'd be a fool not to attempt to clone her. Vigorous grower and responds well to training. Not a demanding eater either, at least so far. Loving this freebie from NASC. Highly recommend them if you're in the northeast US looking for a local seed bank. GZ 1 = steady. Probably the biggest back slide if you want to call it that. Spotted some yellowing on lower leaves but they are shaded by this ones thick canopy. May not even be an issue but we keep an eye on it. Probably the biggest critic of the lowering temperatures because she's slowed down in the past 2 days. Gz2= trooper. She had a rougher upbringing and she's got a far different shape than the other two because of it. But with a little work I'm sure soon both GZ will be indistinguishable from one another. Banana daddy= forgot to take pics of her. Man have I been growing autoflowers all wrong. I may have fed this plant once. Though it should be noted that the soil I put her in was amended with alpha alpha, fish bone meal, and guano. She seems to really enjoy it so far. Not a single yellow leaf. Droopy at times though which is odd. Also some tacoing on new growth that ends up correcting itself as the leaf gets bigger. Double odd. Next time I do an auto run I'm definitely doing much less in terms of feeding and maintenance. Loving your plants too much can be deadly. Starting to figure them out though so I'm happy I did at least one. I'll post in a few days when I water my photos again.

03/24/2021 Been a slow transition week, starting to see pistils but not flowering been on 12-12 just under a week so expecting to see some flowers soon, gave some 4-10-3 with IBA so hopefully she is putting out extra roots before she starts to flower, I know my cuttings root better under 12-12 so fingers crossed. Hoping root & grow does the good job.

F21: on track . F23: Spotted a banner on DT1, freaked out and cut it down. Heartbreaking. F25: watered all plants with 15ml per gal tiger bloom.

On day 1 I adjusted the PH of my reservoir down to 6.1. On day 2 I adjusted the PH of the reservoir from 6.3 to 6.1. On day 3 the buds are really starting to bulk up and are putting out side flower clusters already in week 5. I adjusted the PH to 6.1. The goal is to coast from 6.1-6.3 then back to 6.1-6.3 ect. On day 4 things look good I scoped out the trichs and found some to be filing up with cannabinoids :) maybe she will be done in 7-8 weeks like the breeder says. On day 5 my reservoir temp got into the 80's because when the reservoir gets depleted it lowers the water level below the thermostat and I'm getting into the colder months so the cold air temperatures are causing the heater to heat when not needed. My temporary fix is to place the heater diagonally when the water level gets low and then when the water level drops a little more I will fill my reservoir back up fully so to keep the heaters thermostat running correctly. On day 6 I did another defoliation to improve light penetration and airflow in the canopy. I installed a new "Nano aquarium heater" this will be able to heat my reservoir without being affected by the water level in my reservoir. I also changed out my reservoir and adjusted the PH to 6.1. On day 7 the girls are looking and smelling great! I adjusted my reservoirs PH from 6.6 to 6.1. My Nano aquarium heater seems to do the job nothing out of the ordinary that I could tell after a night in the low 30's.