Espero el apoyo de la comunidad para ganar el premio de TrolMaster 🤞🤞🤞

I Topped Dressed 5 Tbs of 2-8-4 & 2.5 Tbs of 4-4-4 & Feed 1 Tbs of Molasses in 1 Gallon water Feed

Flush is on! A gallon a day each of pH’ed tap water for the next week and a half to 2 weeks. Fall colors galore incoming! One is already going mad purple as I started it on the flush a bit earlier.

Vanilla ice would be jealous of this plant.

The 2 Mixed seeds are well ahead and I can tell they have 2 weeks left. I hope they keep progressing and im gonna keep treating them like they are my Lily or Rose plant. Happy 2024 for all the real ones

Purple punch is nuts, super frosty. Even some fan leaves are covered with tricomes. I believe I will flush it very soon, maybe in the next watering. Gorilla punch beautiful plant with some purple nugs. They are getting really fat Mimosa cake still getting more and more white pistils and I hopping the nugs get fat 🙏🏼

Cold snap past few days and my furnace is struggling to keep up, day temps around 75 F night 65 Video is overexposed, shows size difference between a 5 gal fiber pot and 10 gal SIP. 2/3 of the fiber pots did not stretch well, can see the one that did stretch in the back hiding.

On day 1 the reservoirs PH is steady at 6.2. The rez ppm is 271.

W9.Day.1(59) As the ninth week of flowering arrives, my plants are doing quite well. The younger one has recovered from her injuries and has produced a plethora of buds from her seven nodes. It seems I'm on track to set a new personal record for the stem width at the base - currently, it measures 33 millimeters. My plan is to see these plants through 70 to 77 days of flowering. W9.Day.3(61) Today's music program features rave and Sanskrit. Removed some old root leaves that covers less potent colas. Sending greetings to @chamomile (https://growdiaries.com/grower/chamomile) from week nine of Grow and week two of the Challenge )) W9.Day.4(62) This week's revelation has been the attempt to change the approach to watering and nutrient application by moving away from the recommended Advanced Nutrients program to mixing all types of nutrients at a lower concentration until the end of the grow (not considering the flushing of course). So far, everything is working, and if it continues this way, it opens the path for me to fully automate the watering cycle throughout the entire grow along with nutrient application. The end goal is one container for nutrients, one connection to the water supply system, and one drainage. The ultimate aim is an automated grow. P.S. There are already plans for a robotic LST ))).

Jan17th added videos. Just given them all a easy week. Gonna be starting to keep an eye on these , but still in cruise control for the most part. Still working on the space but have the in fan and out delt with now and dehumidifier and ac sorted so 👍🏻👍🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 we shall see how the environment here acts now . Tested the ec and ph after a watering and they both were OK with what was going in. But im really not in any rush ,still getting situated with everything. Atleast weve got that stuff sorted Smells insane tho can't wait to see how it's finished taste turns out. As always appreciate anyone that took time to check out any of my grows, and appreciate any feedback or suggestions!! Best of luck!!

Flush is on! A gallon a day each of pH’ed tap water for the next week and a half to 2 weeks. Fall colors galore incoming! One is already going mad purple as I started it on the flush a bit earlier.

Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D63/V56 - 17/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 Flushing 💼 Added CO2 dispenser system 🧠 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D64/V57 - 18/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.9 pH 7.2 🌊 Added new res with CalMag, Bloom A-B, Some B-52 and Bud Candy. Added also RhHino Skin and Voodo Juice 🧠 pH is still too high, evaluate to use pH- 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D65/V58 - 19/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.8 pH 7.4 🌊 🧠 🚀

Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D63/V56 - 17/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 Flushing 💼 Added CO2 dispenser system 🧠 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D64/V57 - 18/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.9 pH 7.2 🌊 Added new res with CalMag, Bloom A-B, Some B-52 and Bud Candy. Added also RhHino Skin and Voodo Juice 🧠 pH is still too high, evaluate to use pH- 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D65/V58 - 19/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.8 pH 7.4 🌊 🧠 🚀

So the one girl is a week ahead with the other 2 slowly behind as popped later date, will keep diary from the 1 main girl and add the other 2 in with description as go along Entering week 2 for the main girl now with her being potted up shortly 🌱💚 Aptus nutrients are being used which atm seem very easy too follow I cant wait too start getting these girls flying 🤞 The other girls in there are humbolt seed co ice cream cake which are very slow atm and may open a diary for them or throw them in with this diary

This diary will be solely too showcase as I go along also too help me keep track here and there when needed. Not all will be correct or down too perfection but is still a journey you can join along with 🌱 Gifted these great beans from across the water and glad to finally see them pop through the soil 💚

beautiful plant

12/25/2023-Germination Day 1 Merry X-mas 2023 I decided to start a run of SolFIre Gardens Hoodz Candyz S1. I am going to do a cup filled with RO water a touch of Hydrogen peroxide and let it sit for 24-48 hours until I see tap root then I am going to put it into a rapid rooter.. Tap root Down and put it about 1/4 of the say down the Rapid rooter. I made some modifications to my basket on this run.. I have taken a few Pods that I use for my cloning machine and decided that I am going to try and use them as sure plants, so that I can take my water right up to the bottom of the basket this time and see if these can make my planting more consistent.   12/26/2023-Germination Day 2 Tap root achieved Planting Commencing 12/27/2023-Germination Day 3 Misted the dome lightly misted the rapid rooter and added a little water to the bottom of the pan to encourage root growth to the pan. 12/28/2023-Germination Day 4 Ground Hogs day 12/29/2023- Germination Day 5 She is up, she has broken surface, I misted the root riot, and around the bottom of the tray to try and entice root growth down rapidly. 12/31/2023- Germination Day 6 Ground Hogs Day 1/1/2024-Germination Day 7 HAPPY NEW YEARS!!.. I did it I planned it out so my planting day would fall on New Years and it worked.. Yay!!! 1/2/2024- Germination Day 8 Since the roots are not to the water yet, I am pouring one cup of water lightly on the hydroton around the lady to try and encourage root growth down to the water.. 1/3/2024- Germination Day 9 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/4/2024- Germination Day 10 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/5/2024- Germination Day 11 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I am going to change the water Sunday and kick off Week 1, I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 12 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 13 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/7/2024- Germination Day 14 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water.

Empezamos la semana cambiando los nutrientes al observar ya unos pequeños pistilos o estigmas , en definitiva, empezaron a mostrar tímidamente el sexo. Empiezo con poco y iré subiendo la dosis hasta 4ml/L hasta que vuelva a cambiar de nutrientes. Creo observar del Lumatek ATSpro que le fataria un punto de luz en el centro del panel. Por lo general con otras luminarias la planta del medio me solia crecer mucho mejor y esta vez está quedando retrasada. Seguiré cultivando y si me sigue pasando lo mismo entonces no tendré ninguna duda, por ahora solo son conjeturas, xd De lo anterior rectifico , tengo que decir que pasados dos dias lo estoy viendo diferente, la del medio parece que sigue por buen camino, ahora apenas notaria la diferencia. La semana anterior, la sexta, se les hizo una segunda pulverización con dosis alta de 3ml/L con spiderbloom ( "fitofortificante de impacto muy rápido") pero de nada sirvió, durante esta semana subió la temperatura a 30ºC un par de dias y las arañas salieron a pegarse el gran festín. Una vez constatada la existencia de araña roja correteando por el envés de las hojas solo toca desinfectar bién el armario, lavarlas a todas una a una con agua corriente para arrastrar el máximo de arañitas y una vez secas darles con algun acaricida químico. De no hacerlo ahora me seria imposible más adelante y no tengo ningunas ganas de dejar perder este cultivo. No soy partidario de lo químico pero menos de dejarlas perder.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover White clover Red Clover Yellow Clover Sweet Basil Chamomile Borage Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.