Starting this week with a bud a & bud b feeding. I stopped feeding nutes as often and only run the whole lineup on Sunday. Through the week I use mostly water with the finish, CalMag and swapping out the fire/prime. I had garden hooks in for LST that I pulled up. Brought back the scrog net for support. Learning day by day!

This past week has gone without a hitch. Touch wood but my light timer blunder last week hasn't punished me... Yet... The girls are still bulking up, the lady at the back must be in the dark almost, those large colas at the back are actually from the middle plant... Proper bully! Unfortunately as I have to go under the lights to take some photos, all of the exposures and colours look a bit different from photo to photo. Exactly 4 weeks until the planned chop now :P I'll be making dry ice hash from fresh trim also, and will post some pics when the big day comes... P.s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n765oOU_MMo - compelling evidence for adding UVB to your grows :)

Already week 7, and it’s starting with much better air humidity which makes it easier for me to stay in the recommended VPD range – currently 54% at 25 °C at canopy height. With 58, 67, 78 and 80 cm plants’ average height is about 71 cm. Odour has increased, and sometimes, but only shortly, I get the feeling the coal before the blowers cannot eliminate all of it. While the smell was a bit strange sometimes one and a half week ago, it’s now absolutely yummy, sweet and promising. As is all the sticky stuff adhering to my folding rule when I measure their size. I am a bit confused about the amount of yellowing leaves. That would indicate a nutrition deficit. On the other hand, last feeding (yesterday it was only calmagged water) brought some brown edges to their tips as I wrote. Which could indicate a slight over-nutrition. I am not *that* worried as leaves around the buds all look great (except for mentioned, but not youngest tips), and mature plants obviously tend to concentrate on bud production solely. But week 7 is quite early, or isn’t it? Any recommendations? Maybe I should go with organic fertiliser next time to avoid being stuck between two options ;) As they had run dry already, I gave each one another round of drink. Slightly less fertilised than last week. And I removed the lowest yellow branches and tiny buds that would not make it into the light in time. The Pineapples must have some mimosa genes crossed in. Each time I touch them they bow away their heads in deep dislike. The taller one looks like her head would be too heavy now … It is not, and usually they recover after an hour or so. The Sherbets are pretty unimpressed by all I do. Meanwhile I’ve been working on the Raspberry Pi BoxControl that should help me stay in better VPD ranges in the future. I am not sure how to translate this all into a more stable solution than based on a breadboard, but the state so far (and how it is supposed to work): Raspi runs headless with control software on autostart. Every minute temperature and humidity are received from a GY-21 I2C chip that should be hanging around plant tops. Data is saved in a database, VPD is calculated and signalled in form of a RGB LED color. Additionally, LCD display rotates through current stats. 3 relay modules can en- or disable misting, dehydration or an additional blower. Maybe I can add a CO2 sensor just for the fun of it (but I’d have to develop a device protocol myself), maybe even one or two soil moisture sensors. Theoretically you could also have a lighting control, but then, GPIO ports are all used. The display needs a lot of them, and while I can log onto the Raspi on my local network and view its desktop, I’d prefer to have a quick overview at place. I am not really informed about current models. Are some GPIO extensions or Raspis with extended GPIOs on the market? But so far, that’s all theory. I never had a PCB developed for my hobbyist projects, I am not the best with a solder station. Never had a Raspi run 24/7 for a really long time. Did a bit more lollipop ping in the evening. Especially tallest Shepard had fun building some more very low buds and branches. I think it can investigate its powers better on different places. Day 51: It’s getting hard to measure soil humidity with my low tech device. Soil must be full with roots and I don’t want to hurt them much. I can see them at the outlets of their pots too, sometimes a bit dry of course as these parts run dry earliest. Experiments to include the CO2 sensor in my test setup failed. I can read and reset it, but setting measurement mode and reading values don’t work. Maybe because my I2C library cannot use ClockStretchLimit. Running out of GPIO ports anyway and seeing that the soil sensors are analogue devices, I’ll probably revive my Uno too and have discovered some clever Raspi heads that should make a more stable setup (and some cooling) possible while also adding a handful of PWM ports and an integrated display. I’d like to include a camera module too and it would be great to have some ports available. A final setup would obviously include a Raspi 4 or 5 to easily enable secure online access. But so far, all working nicely in test setup. Day 54: Sometimes I wonder if they’re still growing at all, but then it’s good to have the daily pictures to compare bud width which now seems to be the main interest of the ladies, although differences are now clearer to tell between two day intervals. The taller ones look like they are one week ahead of the smaller plants, with even higher fan leaves turning pale now. Which at an estimated seed–harvest time of 8–11 weeks for both strains should be pretty common, I guess. Or am I wrong? Summerly temperatures make the temperatures at canopy level sometimes reach 31 °C, but at least the simple ultrasonic diffusers arrived and I am getting closer to a better environment control. I can at least switch the diffuser inside the tent remotely from my phone, and a deep bowl of water with a lid so the "fountain" produced will not wet the tent floor and one of the fans placed at the bottom now to lift its mist upwards seems to do the trick. Humidity increases while temperature drops, getting the plants into a better VPD level, so all I have to do is wait for the evil A to deliver the necessary Raspi components to have this automated, maybe still while this grow runs. At the end of this week, there was just a bit of height gain for the two smaller ladies who now approach their next 10 cm mark. Overall, I get the feeling it won’t be that long until harvest. Maybe with the taller ones a week earlier than the others. There’s really not that much bud growth anymore, rather refinements – like buds getting more nodes and color. I’ll investigate the trichomes every few days but would welcome your estimation.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Moved this week so mostly just fed them. Switched to just water.

First I need to thank Mrs_Larimar for helping me through this process!! Thank you!!!😅 The good girl was rinsed with 20 liters of tap water and surrounded with approx. 1.5 - 2 liters of fresh soil in a larger pot. After strong concerns about whether it will be something with the good, one day later I have already enjoyed 6cm of height gain and much stronger fragrances. Now, on the third day after the action, she looks more fresh again and her scent....... * Awwwww * No nutrients or other aids have been added. Only when the weight is right, it will be poured again. Yesterday one day after rinsing I removed the 2 lowest fan leaves as it seemed to me from stress of the plant as I could do that. It does not seem to bother her. Wish me good luck! xD

Wetter war wieder sehr Abwechslungsreich. Die Photos wachsen weiter gut. Das Stickstoff Reservoir (hornspäne als Langzeit Dünger) ist noch nicht aufgebraucht. Larry Lemon und AK wachsen gleichermaßen gut und verzweigen schön. Die automatischen sind in der vollblüte und stehen noch ca. 2 Wochen, wenn vorher kein Schimmel kommt... Soweit so gut 👍 bis nächste Woche ✌️

just chugging right into the 2nd week of flower. This variety is 8 week flower on the nose, so Ive got 6 weeks left on this one. Will prob be the first plant I harvest this year. Pray for consistent rain for the next 6 weeks

All 3 plants get transplanted into their new pots (12+12+7.5), applied topping technique to all of them. On the transplantation day, they were looking unhappy with their leaves drooping but day by day they're getting better. I've positioned the pots to get approximately 750-820 μmol per plant.

09 May 2021 Today starts the 15th week of my grow, and the 6th week of flower. Just over a month till the scheduled harvest, and today the nutrient amounts change according to my feeding chart. So today feeding went like this: CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraBloom 15ml. Today we aren’t using any of the FloraGro, and won’t be for the rest of the grow. I chilled the water again, but not as long this time and the temperature of the solution was 56.3 degrees F. I thought it odd that the website doesn’t allow for entries lower than 50 degrees in that block, but oh well. The initial pH was 5.89, and I added pH UP 2.5ml which adjusted the pH to 6.53. The runoff pH was 5.63. Lower than I want, but still within range for a healthy plant. Temperature in the tent was 81 degrees F, and humidity was at 53%. The plant looks great, and is maturing quite nicely. 11 May 2021 Today was a busy day! My DarkStar Kush is doing very well! The smell is starting to get stronger and the buds are fattening up as well. I’ve noticed some mild nutrient burn on some of my leaf tips, but nothing terrible. I’ll keep an eye on it to make sure that they don’t get worse. I haven’t really made any adjustments to the nutrients lately with the exception of increasing the FloraBloom by 2.5ml’s, and stopped using the FloraGro in accordance with my feed chart. Feeding today went as follows: CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, and FloraBloom at 15ml. The initial pH was 5.85, so I added 3ml of pH UP to increase the pH to 6.52. The runoff pH was 5.65. I finally received my TDS meter today, so the TDS reading was 1070 ppm. My feed chart says that the ppm range in looking for is 1050-1400 ppm, so 1070 puts me in that range. I chilled the water again today, and it was 46 degrees F. The temperature in the grow tent was 81 degrees F, and humidity was 40%. So far so good, and I’m starting two new diaries today for some clones I was gifted by Buddabud, so check them out. 13 May 2021 Just when I thought I was on cruise control with my baby here, she throws me a slow curve. The question is; will I hit it, or miss it? The light nutrient burn that I noticed in my last entry on the 11th has gotten just a small tad worse, but nothing terrible. I believe it’s not from the feeding, but the build up of nutrients in the soil. I finally got my TDS monitor as I noted the other day, so I tested the ppm in the runoff and it was over 4000. Then, as I was shaking the excess water off the end, the end cap for the battery came off and the whole monitor plunged back into the water completely submerging for a moment before I could get a hand free to grab it. It’s been sitting in a bowl of rice since yesterday. I just hope it dries out and keeps working. I need to see what the TDS of the soil at this stage is supposed to be and then either keep going and damn the burn, or maybe feed with pH’ed plain water for a feeding or two and then see how it reacts. I’m still deciding, but will research first before making my decision. For today I kept to the feed chart. I gave the following: CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, and FloraBloom 15ml. The initial pH was 5.92, so I added 2.5ml of pH UP which raised the pH to 6.47. That is what I fed the plant. The TDS reading of the feed solution was 1036 ppm. Runoff pH was 5.63. Tent temperature was 79 degrees F, and humidity was 40%. I have just about 4 weeks left in this grow till the scheduled harvest. 15 May 2021 Today is the last day of the 6th week of flower, and I’m going to try and arrest my mild nutrient burn on my baby. I’ve decided to just give water and CALiMAGic today properly pH’ed to see if it does anything to improve the situation. I wanted to have a significant amount of runoff today so I fed 1.5 gallons of water with 7.5ml of CALiMAGic. The initial pH was 7.60, but adding the pH DOWN is much different than adding pH UP! I initially added just 0.5ml to the gallon of water which lowered the pH from 7.60 to 4.9. I was like, “DAMN!” 😳 so I had to pour it all out and start over again. I learned through research never to mix pH UP and DOWN in the same solution. If it’s wrong, you need to start over;!so I did. After 3 tries and lots of wasted CALiMAGic, I finally got it right by only adding 5 drops (gtts) of pH DOWN to get it to 6.64. The TDS meter dried out and still works, so the TDS going in was only 403ppm. Like I said, I wanted a lot of runoff to try and clear out some of the nutrient buildup in the soil. The runoff pH was 5.58, and runoff TDS was 3803 ppm. Daytime temp was high today at 86 degrees F, and humidity was 31%. She looks good. She smells good. I hope she stays good! A few weeks left till harvest!

Day 84 Mon Add Water PH 5.8 EC 0.7 - 0.6 DLI 12h PPFD Water 22c Day 86 Wed PH 6.0 EC 0.5 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18c Day 87 Thu PH 5.9 EC 0.5 DLI 12h PPFD Water 21c Day 87 Thu Add Water PH 6.1 - 5.9 EC 0.7 - 0.4 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18c Day 87 Fri PH 5.9 EC 0.6 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18c Day 88 Sat Add water PH 5.9 - 6.0 EC 0.6 - 0.5 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18c

LAS NENAS VAN PERFECTAS, SEGUIMOS CON EL TRAINING Y SACANDO ALGUNA HOJA QUE TAPE LA LUZ.

Empiezan a engordar los cogollos creo que he cometido un pequeño error con el LST los amarres se soltaron y se volvieron completamente locas, mucha resina mucho olor parecen bollos buena estructura buen olor y a ver engordar estas preciosas cepas sigo sin cambiar nada todo sigue igual temperatura humedad lo único que queda es apretar bien esos cogollos, y intentar sacar el máximo provecho! 😋 Que os parecen dejarme en los comentarios vuestras opiniones!! Nos vemos la próxima semana

Einfach wunderbar, noch ne Woche würde ich den Tops geben, dann kommen die wahrscheinlich noch ab, werde wieder stufenweise ernten… oh Mann kein Bock auf Trimm Jail… Aber wieder ordentliche Beute für 3 Pflanzen 

Bad Guy got hit with a heavy salt buildup, measuring around 1500ppm in the runoff. Planning to flush it during the next two feedings and see how it responds. Keeping fingers crossed for a swift recovery! 🌿🤞

02.21 d43 02.27 d49

problems with fungus gnats, the plants are weak and are not growing, at the moment I use potassium soap diluted in the solution, as soon as I collect the money from the work I buy the grube granade predators that kill adults and larvae