Likes
Comments
Share
Signs of swelling, & smell is picking up. Unhappy gal is still putting out pistils / and no sign of continuous deficiencies. -Need to start bringing up my defoliations / canopy a little bit. More bottom larf than preferred, and it just forces me to pull them later anyway. ~~~~~~~~~~ Questions & Feedback are welcomed, feel free to message me! Thanks for stopping by growmies! 🤙🤙🤙🙏🙏🙏
Likes
2
Share
"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
Likes
16
Share
Pheno #7 and #4 showed the most desired traits and will be running both indoors iagain the coming weeks under better conditions. I didnt get as much photo's as promised but things have been hectic on all fronts, but I will do better next time ;) Its a pitty we had some issues and not all phenos where in a position to show the true potentail. There for we are running the 5 with re-running outdoors this season. Along with some new beans :D
Likes
1
Share
Likes
9
Share
Really happy with plant growing White Russians next
Likes
2
Share
massive growth in this girl. i decided to flip them both cuz they are in a 2x2. trying to get 12 tops. 6.3 ph 1800 ppm run off. the one girl goy reckt by knats so her roots got stunted. haven't decide what to do. toped her and she grew strange. gonna bump up the lights a bit maybe she streached out to much. topped one last time in the 3 gal. cal mag and silica only for now.
Likes
13
Share
@CCGS1mon
Follow
Training für heute erledigt 🤗 Jeder Schritt bringt mich näher an mein Ziel. Bald wird getoppt das sich die Triebe nochmal teilen wie eine Hydra.
Processing
Likes
1
Share
Hello everyone, Even tho I've been busy around the house this week, I took a few minutes and transplanted these into 5 gallon fabric pots, get them going early in some super soil. Lets see how they turn out. Ill have better picture's for you guys next week... See you guys next week...
Likes
80
Share
February, 14th. Strawberry Cough is doing fine No big Actions taken Just keeping them Happy in watering with Beneficals, and spraying with " Fast Plants Spray" Girls are 12 Days old, and these are nice Seedlings. very Promising
Likes
41
Share
Hey guys here's another update of the Blueberry :-) All 4 are going to be beautiful and are growing great. Next week I will make a clone of each one and put it directly in the flowering chamber to find out which ones are male and which ones are female 😊. After that, the clones are disposed of 👍. The males are then taken to another breeding room where they can flower later to collect the pollen :-) . If a female stays, the run will be continued in the diary here. Of course all clones are taken extra and im Vegi tent held :-) . Was watered every 2 days with 0.8 l each (for sewing materials see table above) It was cleaned and everything checked. Have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻💚 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : DJ Short Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany
Processing
Likes
24
Share
@Grey_Wolf
Follow
High Level From Eva Seeds 11th week of Veg 30th December 2019 Fark these girls look so good with their thin sativa leaves and overall health. I'm really getting excited about this grow as I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. It's a very faint light but a light never the less. There is still about six weeks to go until it will start flowering so I'll spend that time making sure both plants get everything they need nutrient wise plus lots of love and care from me. Plant number 2 will need to be transplanted into a larger pot this week as it's getting to that point where the other plant was when I transplanted her. Thankyou all so much for reading my Diary please leave a like if you enjoyed the read and the pics etc. I'll be back next Year in 2020 with another update until then stay lit 👍
Likes
5
Share
Truly, starting to show their beauty cannot wait until they start packing on the buds🔥💯
Likes
15
Share
Day 15-defoliated her probably for the last time after a few weeks of growth, she was very bushy. Added another fan to get more air moving as well. Also, I decided to try out the AN Sensi Bloom set. I didn’t mean to get the coco version but a little extra cal-mag won’t hurt in this case, I only fed at 75% strength and added big Bud powder at 0.5 grams/liter. I’m hoping her stretch finishes soon or I’ll run out of space, although she’s starting to really stack.
Likes
Comments
Share
Both outdoor autos hit full mid-flower stride this week, stacking steadily and pushing out stronger aromas with each warm afternoon. Nice Cream continued swelling along every branch, its buds coated in a fresh frost of trichomes and exuding a creamy berry scent with faint rubber notes typical of the strain. The canopy stayed lush and evenly colored with no major fade or stress. Tiger #2 developed a dense, compact structure with heavy pistil coverage and a distinct sweet grape-candy aroma beginning to dominate. The smaller pot required slightly more frequent watering but kept pace in flower production. By the end of the week, trichomes were mostly clear with early cloudiness forming, signaling the start of late-flower swelling as both girls prepared for their final push.
Likes
77
Share
2/3/22: Watered with only aquarium water, no nutes. They are all getting very thirsty! Sherbert was dry and droopy yesterday so I watered her yesterday. I watered all other plants today, they seemed mildly dry/very slightly droopy - so I gave them between a ½-¾ of a gallon each. I'll have to keep a close eye on Sherbet she's very thirsty & she gets hangry easily! (hangry = droopy:)
Likes
1
Share
@BruWeed
Follow
11/10 - comenzó su cuarta semana de floracion. Su evolución fue muy notoria, de un dia para el otro se desarrolló mucho. No tuve problemas en ninguna etapa, hasta el momento se encuentra perfecta. Los cocos son muy resinosos y grandes.
Likes
20
Share
@Fergie
Follow
Hey guys so not much happened in last week buds are forming nicely everywhere 😀 the bigger 2 of them are smelling amazing and the crystals are just insane @tryhard heavy hitting hazes the way forward 😁anyway will continue as doing til next week guys