01/27/25. Welcome to the start of week 4. Well, fatso is doing great now. She’s perky and happy.. AND she’s darkened up quite a bit. No more pale girl. She was just a hungry little hippo 😸😸 She was just watered yesterday, slowly, until a bit of run off. I’ve upped her food to 2.5 across 3 parts, as well as upped calmag (1) and silica (2). I pulled a dip shit move and left my measuring tape in the flower tent and it’s lights off, so I’ll have to come back tomorrow to update that. She’s at 4 nodes and as soon as she’s got 5 I’ll be topping her. Update: 1/29/25 got measurement updated and watered with food. 1/31/25- topped and plain watered and added picture/video Thanks for lookin. ✌️

Week 8 Flower The last week of flush for these two. They were taken down on Day 56, after a 16 Day flush. I think Twin2 could have finished at 7 weeks, but of course I hadn't planned for this, or I would have flushed sooner. So she was taken to the originally planned 8 weeks. Twin2 has also foxtailed quite a bit, from only slightly higher temps and also because she's having a last attempt at catching any pollen in order to reproduce. Although the pots were slightly damp still when I harvested, it is best to take them down when they're dry. The only reason I didn't, was because I knew I'd be too busy the next day, and there were plants in veg that were desperate to be thrown into the flower tent! The pics do make them look wetter than they were though. Their fan leaves were taken off and they were each hung in seperate boxes, where they'll dry as slowly as possible for between 6-10 days. I dont suffer with very high humidity, so I'm able to do this without any issues. When I feel it is too humid, I simply burp the box for the first day or 2 once a day. The slower the dry the better the buds will taste/smell. Once she's dry enough she'll be trimmed and jarred for curing. It's going to be a pretty tough one for keeper pheno! They both have similar but very different smells. By that I mean, they both smell very floral and sweet, but T2 smells extra sweet (although definitely not as dense). That doesn't mean T1 doesn't smell just as nice. Hers buds are thicker and more dense, so even though I've favourited T2 in the pics, I think I'm leaning towards T1 still. But in all honesty it's still down to dry weight and the taste test! This can all be looked forward to in the harvest update! It's been a seriously fun diary with these two twins. I'm definitely glad I separated them. Do you think you'll attempt to separate them after seeing my experience? Please let me know! Thanks for following and happy growing! 🐺

This wedding cake is looking as healthy as her sister however she's in a bigger pot 25 liters. Let's see if she does as good as her sister,she's enjoying life right I don't think I'll have any type of issue,she's being fed 100% organically,with lactobacillus liquid made by me,liquid bat guano,and she has in her soil florians living organics and more bat guano and seaweed,mycorrizae,humic and fulvic acids,beneficial bacteria and fungus. She's gonna be a wonderful plant at the end I'm sure. Stay tuned guys! 💚🌱✌️

I mean, overall this was an extremely painless grow. The test of whether we should or shouldn't top autos is still TBD imo. Our topped candidate produced denser, frostier buds, but weighed slightly less, at 14 grams of bud total. And our lst plant produced 18 grams of bud, not as frosty, and almost as dense as our topped girl. I'll be topping autoflowers from here on out only under the circumstance I have 4+ to grow at the same time. Seems like it could be used to speed up the autoflower grow cycle if done properly, like with right. Since I'm doing a perpetual cycle, it's still a viable option for me in the long run. A few tips I have for anyone growing this strain in organics: Start feeding bloom nutes a little bit prior to flower transition - this makes the transition more seemless. From weeks 1-3 flower, I slowly dropped the grow dosage until I cut off grow nutes week 3 flower. Starting the flush around week 6 flower seemed to really bring out this plant's potential. But I think you could get away with starting the flush around week 5. I hope this helps anyone trying this strain out. It's a good one, I hope to see more journals of it, eventually. Cheers everyone! Time for me to take a well-deserved puff. :) ☁️ 🌼

Timelapse Days 21-34: Memory card filled up and I lost days 35 and part of 36. Day 36: No photograph. No longer centered under the light. I need more lighting. Day 37: plant taking to the training well. Almost time for another tent peg. Day 38: Still growing. Day 39: Worried this is mold. Added a gallon of water with nutrients increasing the nutrients to mid-vegetation. Overall I think the plant looks pretty healthy. Day 40: Turned the carbon filter on to promote air exchange. Day 41: Continued training. Day 41: Rushing the exhaust fan has reduced the humidity. Going to have to keep an eye on that.

Getting bushy and starting to stretch out. They're so compact and tight😀 I boosted the ec this week to prepare for the growth spurt that seems to be coming. Short spade shaped leaves. Lush green and all of the bottom branches have stretched and evened out with the main topped branches. No problems so far any I'm happy.

Melon Gum is doing good. She has reached the solution. Ot looks like it is s bit string for her. She should grow into it very fast. Everything is looking good. Thank you Pure Instinto, Spider Farmer, and Athena. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Día 6 de diciembre ,tenemos una amanecida de gran niebla que se mantuvo en la mañana con ello una alta temperatura en la noche del cultivo amaneciendo este a 90% de humedad Después del encendido de la luminaria y colocar dos pequeños humificadores de usar y tirar..en dos horas ,la humedad se mantiene bien. 55% En el día de antes de ayer se le aplicó un buen riego. Día 7 Humedad en el cultivo de un 60% Hoy le e metido otro riego con todos sus nutrientes de vegetación y metiéndole un poco de floración La EC 1100 El ph 6 Un ventilador dejó de ser oscilante para quedarse fijo.. hahaha meteré otro en unos días más grande y oscilante . Día 11 Hoy le apliqué un pequeño riego de 15 litros debido a la humedad en estos días.. En el día de mañana comprobaré el sustrato y si se mantiene más seco se le aplicará otro riego. En la siguiente semana instalaré para sustituir a la de 60w por una Marshydro ts600. La humedad en el riego se a quedado a 70% Hoy el armario se a mantenido sobre 60/65%.

She is flowering very strong, in love with strawberry smell coming !! in loveee 😎😎😎😎

This was my first grow, so I was happy to get anything to harvest. Ended up with just about a half ounce of some pretty amazing bud. I initially started growing with Miracle-Gro, mainly because I'm dumb, which led to pretty bad nutrient burn and stunted growth around week 4. After some suggestions by the users here at GrowDiaries, I switched to Advanced Nutrients, and followed TaNgs EASY Auto Feeding Schedule that incorporated pH Perfect Sensi Grow Part A &B, Overdrive, and Carboload. My plant bounced back really well after this, but didn't add much growth. This was my first grow, and GSC was very forgiving and survived me messing up many times along the way. The final product smells and tastes delicious, and packs quite a punch. Very euphoric and uplifting feelings, with a moderate amount of dry mouth. I still have a few more of these seeds, so I'll probably be starting another grow in the near future.

Ya casi por finalizar 😃 estoy muy emocionado por el resultado final, todo pinta bien 👌🏻💯 se puede mejorar aún más pero estoy conforme con el resultado de esta planta 🌱 Esta semana fui bajando la ec poco a poco hasta llegar a pura agua, la semana que viene será de puro flush 🚿 ya para cosechar 🤩

Sorry for being late with this update! 😱 Plants are maturing well but I noticed Matcha is developing slower compared to Pistachio and I assume that's because the height of the lights are very different from each plant, but both are still going forward. A clear sign of maturity is Pistachio's brighter color leafs and the amount of "brown" pistils on both plants. Trichomes are developing well too. Anyway, I think I will give Pistachio one more week and then see how Matcha develops to cut her. I also started to defoliate my girls, there were tons of dying leaves! See you all in my next update!

Und sie wächst und wächst und wächst... Ich weiß gar nicht, wo sie noch hin will. Macht aber nix, die Nähe zur Lampe scheint ihr nix auszumachen. Seit dem 03. Jan darf sie jetzt auch das komplette Licht ganz alleine ausbeuten, da die beiden fast buds, wie der Name schon sagt ;) früher fertig waren.

Hello. This is the end of week 8 and the beginning of week 9 of flowering. The plants look great. Little bit of thrips damage, but other wise, they look great. Started flushing on Sun. They'll get ph adjusted tap water twice a week... with the run off, draining back into the reservoir. Plant #1 smells like lemon with some mango hints. plants #2 and #3 smell fruity with citrus hints. Will start the harvest on Aug 11th and it should take about 5 days to harvest or maybe 6. It depends on how tired I am and if I need a nap on one of those days to keep my energy up. I also put the buds into curing bags after 3 days hanging, which takes up more time. I've got some other plants to put in their places. and that will take us up to Oct. for that harvest. It's the Mac and Crack Diary. This is the last of Weirdo #8 and I will put more weird comics in my next diary. Check out my other diaries for more weird comics. OK. Have Fun. Chuck.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Again the super soil seems to save them and provide for exponential growth. I could try to up my humidity, which is somewhat low. But the phenotypes are looking awesomely similar for a no-name brand. This could be a hidden little gem and can't wait to see how they mature. Meanwhile been fighting gnats, tried to get rid of them with a solution of citric acid and water. It seems to help as a contact poison on the soil, while only being a tiny film, so I just don't have to add any citric coming waterings. We like them organic solutions with stuff already lying around the house. Next week I'm going to FIM them and hope this works out better than with my Orange Hill Special grow. Well Im off for this week but not without thanking @MarsHydroLED again for an awesome light! SP -3000 is a monster light, check it out on Aliexpress Mars Hydro Global Store!

BUENO ESTA SEMANA ESTUVO DE LOCOS OBTUVE UN EXCELENTE CAMBIO AL PODER MEJORAR EL PH Y EL EC DEFINITIVAMENTE ELLAS SE APRENDE MUCHO ME GUSTARÍA YA TIRARME A LAS PISTAS POR LO GRANDE PERO BUENO ESTAMOS EN EL PROCESO DE APRENDIZAJE VEO QUE EL LST TAMBIÉN LO HA DESARROLLADO MUY BIEN ESPERO ESTAR HACIENDO TODOS ESTOS PASOS A LA MARAVILLA MEJORE EL EC Y EL PH COMO ME ACONSEJARON MIS AMIGOD DE @sweet_seeds y creo QUE ESTO IRA MEJORANDO ESPERO PODER CONTAR CON ELLOS PARA UNAS NUEVAS CEPAS QUE QUIERO APRENDER MUCHO MAS GRACIAS DE TODAS FORMAS Y SI VEN ALGO PARA MEJORAR ME DICEN AL INTERNO BUENOS HUMOS CULTIVETAS DE APARTAMENTOS .........AAA LO OLVIDAD ESTA VEZ AGREGUE SOLO BIONOVA SOUL MIX Y NO AGREGUE EL EL ENRAIZANTES ES MUY BUENO NO TUVE NECESIDAD DE ECHAR MAS SALUDOS

Trichomes we're cloudy with almost no amber so I took the opportunity to harvest before they started to turn amber. The smell from them all is unique, all four are different from one another in both smell and appearance.

170419 week 12 flower week 6 - okay so I thought Zkittlez OG was ready in the next week but after examining trichomes again there are still a lot clear, because she is an Auto on 12/12 she is gonna take longer than usual and with less yield, she is still carrying a lot of dense looking nugs but I know under 18/6 she would of blown up!! my plan now is for this to be the final week of feeding nutrients and then the next 2 weeks will be just 7.0ph water. I want the girls to start taking in what they need from there fan leaves etc 🍁 It’s been hard gettting up close to the girls at the back to see how far they are from harvest and I can’t rely on breeder flower times as they aren’t that accurate, I think I will harvest laughing Buddha on week 15, cookies kush and zkittlez og on week 14. So far I have been very impressed with the quality of these strains, cookies kush has a baker type of smell reminds me of cookie dough, laughing Buddha has a very citrus like smell and Zkittlez OG smells of berries! Haven’t had any major issues throughout the whole grow cycle which is an achievement for me but I always find the last few weeks the hardest as I can never tell when to harvest 😂 Day 77 flower day 35