Terza settimana di fioritura inoltrata..andiamo più che bene con lo sviluppo.buona genetica anche questa papaia cookie...bravi 👏 fast buds. Continuate così .,💪✌️

Día 17/11 se hace el cambio del fotoperiodo a 12 horas de luz Este día también regué con EC de 2.0 y pH ajustado a 5.8 en esta oportunidad agrege un poco de Pro Silocate de grotek que tenis guardado. Se mantiene el uso de cloro a razón de 0.2 ml x 4 litros de agua. Baje la luz a 60 cm de la planta más alta del cultivo y se mantiene a 100% de potencia

Blütewoche 4 Tag 1: 2,85l für jede Pflanze. - kurz vor Tages Ende waren die Stofftöpfe ungewöhnlich trocken. Ich habe nochmal 0,7l pro Pflanze nachgegossen. Außerdem waren sie heute sehr gestresst. Bei der großen (rechte Pflanze) sind auch einige Mängel aufgetreten. Ich führe dies auf das Training von gestern zurück. Die Buds bilden sich gerade und es sind viele Buds im Licht. Schauen wir mal wie es ihr morgen geht. Tag 2: Die gestern aufgetretenen Mängel haben sich nicht verschlimmert, aber man sieht sie deutlicher. Es gab 0,7l pro Pflanze. Ich habe nochmal nachgedüngt. Die Blüten bilden sich. Trichome sind noch keine zu erkennen. Lampe neu ausgerichtet, ~30cm zur Spitze. Gerade die ersten Trichome entdeckt. Tag 3: Die Mängel scheinen scheinen sich aufgelöst zu haben, ich vermute, durch die lange Vegi/Wuchsdruck/Training aufgetreten. Die mittlere Pflanze beginnt zu purplen. Stretch noch leicht vorhanden. Habe die Lampenhöhe erneut angepasst. Tag 4: 2,2l pro Pflanze

I might switch the lights in the next days. Depending on her growth.

Day 64 really finishing up nicely, she is very thick The ripening blend is doing its job, the leafs are starting their fade a bit This strain loves DWC, super fast growth and development, thanks @Fast_Buds Day 65 smooth and steady, she is up to drinking 6L a day now buds are covered in trichomes Day 66 trichomes are looking 90% white all over the side buds continues to amaze me daily, with the 6L drinking the buds are swelling up, i see a few pistils tips starting to turn pink keeping the temps and the humidity low, 40% humidity Day 67 temps low, 21, 40% humidity is causing massive terpene development, the buds are pouring out resin captured a photo while lights were off Day 68 She is finishing up nicely, changed the DWC for fresh ripening blend, this will be the last pool for the lady The pistils are about 30% brown, trichomes are all white all over. Maybe 2-3 days left. Day 69 The buds are maturing fast, we are in the harvest window. The colas are rock solid, and they are the most sticky ive ever grown from autoflower. Pistils are about 50% pink/orange/brown - trichomes are all white, not seeing any clear. adjusting to lights on 24x7, temperature is low, 20 degrees and ive got the humidity about 45% - time to overdrive and preserve terpenes with the low temps. easy for low temps here, its already -4 outside, my metal air intake hose is very cold drawing in air from outside. Will likely chop the plant tomorrow or the next day, looking to be about perfect - these are next level genetics Uploaded a video

Running Slurricane 7 with Strawberry truffle

I added another 4 tablespoons of pridelands bloom top dressed after defol. Still watering in brix, green aminos, armor si, calmag and great white everyday till max saturation

Solar Plexus 2160, Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that points up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You won't get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with too much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) cause a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plant vacuoles resulting in the inability of the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the abstract of the article "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification, and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Lesson Learned here for me, lets hope she can recover. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days. Halides are chemical substances such as Flouride, Chlorine and Bromide. Halides can often be found in toothpaste, dental products and tap water. The Pineal gland is especially sensitive to fluoride in the water. Fluoride, and other chemical substances like chlorine, are bad for the pineal as they deposit on tissues rich in calcium, such as the pineal. Flouride is the most common and widespread in our diets. It is magnetically attracted to the pineal gland more so than any other part of the body. Here it forms calcium phosphate crystals which accumulate. In particular, the fluoride present in our drinking water has been proven to calcify (or harden) this vital area of the brain — thus reducing its function.

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Update coming.

Update coming.

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Update coming.

DAY63 WEEK9 = Impatiently waiting till harvest time 😘 Beautiful to enjoy the plants ripening and finishing 😍😍😍 Congrats to BIOTABS, because their tablest are really superb 🙏 I'm super satisfied 😁😁😁 Wedding Gelato, Triple G, and Cookies Gelato are completely ripe.👍😃 All their buds are rockhard 💪😖 👉 Cookies Gelato have become completely purple with beautiful piled buds and orange pistils, and looks delicious. Smells of berries and 😵 👉 Wedding Gelato has round buds (easy to trim) with mixed colors : gold, brass, brown, yellow, red and green colors with orange pistils 😊 Fine and accessible smell, pleasant and no overbearing 😄 🙏 👉 Triple G will be the hardest to trim, because of her quirky shaped buds. She has big internodes and big buds scattered across her tall sturdy stalks. Beautiful buds, a pleasure for the eyes. Her smell is pungent, sometimes narcotic even. She will get you stoned in no time 😋 👉 Liberty Haze could have another week. But she lacks some nitrogen; watch her leaves turn yellow, and make her taste sooo soft 👻 She hasn't any purple or red colors, only green and yellow. Her buds are leafy, not that firm, but volumineus. She's soo sweet, with hints of lime. I defoliated the plants in week 3 because I had to treat the plants against spider mites. Because of this, the plants had fewer leaves, the light could penetrate much deeper and now the lower buds are ripen as well 🙏. I will continue to apply this technique in the future. 👍👍👍 These will be the last pictures before harvesting 😍

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Still pluckin leaves here and there but overall we’re just watering every other day rotating molasses with recharge. Light smell starting to come through. Waiting for these pbb’s to start to frost up a little more. But the Candy Candy is showing really good potential. Looking better than last run for sure at this point.

Week 2 of the flowering phase flew by 🌱💨. Unfortunately, I may have overdone it with potassium or kept the water level too high – the classic signs of clawing leaves were evident. Thankfully, they seem to be recovering now and are back under control 💪🍃. My IR night experiment is showing clear results 🌌: The plants exposed to infrared radiation at night stretched significantly more. This might be especially beneficial for this indica-dominant strain as it leads to better canopy distribution, improved airflow, and reduced risks of mold and disease. Plus, the light distribution is much more efficient now, which I’m excited to see pay off. On the downside, my Orange Sherbert turned hermaphroditic 😔. It’s hard to pinpoint the cause – overfertilization seems unlikely since I’m using only organic nutrients. I suspect it might be linked to an E-field experiment I’ve been running. To confirm this theory, I’ll conduct a new grow with a similar strain next year to see if the electric field negatively impacts cannabis development. Stay tuned for updates! Drop a like and follow along for more grow insights 🌿✨. See you next week! Woche 2 der Blütephase ist wie im Flug vergangen 🌱💨. Leider habe ich wohl etwas zu viel Kalium gegeben oder den Wasserstand zu hoch gehalten – die typischen Anzeichen von Adlerkrallen waren sichtbar. Zum Glück scheinen sich diese jetzt zurückzubilden und sind wieder unter Kontrolle 💪🍃. Mein IR-Nachtexperiment zeigt bereits deutliche Ergebnisse 🌌: Die Pflanzen, die nachts mit Infrarotstrahlung bestrahlt wurden, haben deutlich stärker gestretcht. Das ist besonders bei dieser indica-dominanten Sorte wahrscheinlich von Vorteil, da es zu einer besseren Verteilung des Blätterdachs führt. Dadurch verbessert sich die Luftzirkulation, das Risiko von Schimmel und Krankheiten wird minimiert, und die Lichtverteilung wird effizienter. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich das weiter auswirkt! Leider hat meine Orange Sherbert gezwittert 😔. Woran das genau liegt, kann ich schwer sagen. Eine Überdüngung halte ich für unwahrscheinlich, da ich nur biologischen Dünger verwendet habe. Ich vermute, dass mein E-Feld-Experiment eine Rolle spielt. Um das zu bestätigen, werde ich nächstes Jahr einen neuen Durchlauf mit einer ähnlichen Sorte machen und prüfen, ob das elektrische Feld tatsächlich eine ungünstige Rückentwicklung der Pflanze verursacht. Bleibt dran, lasst ein Like da und folgt mir für weitere Updates 🌿✨. Bis nächste Woche!