!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!guckt euch letzen Report an !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Blüte hat begonnen: Edit:11.05 Die Pflanzen sind innerhalb von 2 Tagen explodiert. Ich habe das Licht nun auf 75 Prozent gestellt und noch einmal Cal-Mag nachgegeben, da die letzte Gabe nur eine halbe war. Die beiden Titan sehen fast identisch aus. Die beiden Epsilon sind circa 3 Tage unterschiedlich, eine ist etwa 5 cm kleiner als die andere und hat noch kaum Blüten. Ich denke, in 3 Tagen wird das der Fall sein. Die Cosmos F1 ist im Umfang circa 50-50 cm, kaum Blüten bisher. Ich hoffe, sie wird nicht noch viel größer, da der Platz langsam eng wird. Ich bin von dem Wachstum dieser Pflanze absolut begeistert. Mal gucken, was die Blüte bringt. Edit ende Ich habe alle Blüten entfernt, die nicht im direkten Licht sind, und alle Blätter, die die Blüten bedecken. Die Pflanzen weisen einen Cal-Mag-Mangel auf, was bei der Blüte normal ist, gerade bei diesem Licht. Ich habe dem Gießwasser etwas Cal-Mag hinzugefügt. Die Pflanzen sind drei Tage älter als im letzten Report. letzte Woche : Die Pflanzen sind seit der Keimung auf diesen Fotos genau 30 Tage alt. Ich habe eine Pflanze ausgetauscht, da es sich um eine Epsilon F1 handelte, die vermutlich Mutationen aufwies. Sie hatte verkümmerte Blätter, die nicht wie die ihrer Artgenossen aussahen, und wuchs deutlich langsamer. Daher habe ich sie nach 2,5 Wochen ausgetauscht. Der kleine Mann(die ausgetauschte Pflanze) leidet natürlich jetzt ein bisschen unter Lichtstress, deswegen werde ich wohl nur eine sehr gestauchte Pflanze erhalten. Aber besser, als die Fläche leer zu lassen. So viel zu dem, was nicht funktioniert hat: Die Sanlight stand die ersten 2 Wochen auf 20 Prozent. Dann habe ich sie teilweise mit dem Dimmer höher gestellt: 2 Stunden auf 25 Prozent. Eine Woche später bin ich auf 30 Prozent und 2 Stunden mit 35 Prozent gegangen. Für Woche 4 habe ich 40 Prozent und 2 Stunden auf 45 Prozent gewählt. Ich erhoffe mir, die Pflanzen so schneller an die starken Lampen zu gewöhnen. Im Nächsten grow soll bei jeder Pflanze die TDS per Infrarot gemessen werden. Da werde ich dann ein Experiment zu machen, wie die Lichtsteigerung am besten umzusetzen ist. Zu den Lampen kann ich bis jetzt nur Positives sagen. Im Gegensatz zur dazugehörigen App, diese ist wirklich nicht sehr gut umgesetzt. Das Menü und die Einstellungen sind teilweise irreführend und nicht sehr durchdacht. Ich muss mir immer wieder die Tutorials in der App ansehen, da diese immer wieder angezeigt werden. Noch dazu hätte ich gerne die Möglichkeit, mehr Einstellungen treffen zu können. Das ist aber Meckern auf hohem Niveau, weil auch die App das macht, was sie soll, nur eben meiner Meinung nach nicht sehr gut umgesetzt. Die Pflanzen wurden von mir mit Klipsen aus dem 3D-Drucker gestützt. Diese Klips kann man Stück für Stück im Winkel verstellen, so dass man die Triebe damit neigen kann. Das habe ich von Tag zu Tag im Winkel verstellt, so dass ich am Ende einen 45-Grad-Winkel habe. Das habe ich insgesamt über 6 Tage gemacht. Die Pflanzen haben an sich ein sehr gleichmäßiges Wachstum. Die Cosmos F1 wächst so optimal, dass kein LST mit den Klipsen nötig ist. Ich habe an den Pflanzen keine Mängel entdecken können und auch keine Anzeichen von Mutationen. Die Pflanzen haben im Durchschnitt eine Höhe von 35 cm, wobei eine etwas stärker abweicht mit 22 cm (wieder eine Epsilon F1). Der Umfang mit LST bei der Cosmos F1 liegt ohne LST bei 20 cm im Durchschnitt, wo wir wieder die Epsilon im Negativen haben mit 14 cm. Die Pflanzen wurden alle entlaubt, das eine Woche vor der Blüte. Morgen werden die Pflanzen erneut entlaubt und ge-lollipoppt. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!zusätliche infos werden morgen ergänzt + Fotos !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *1. Foto Mutation: Dieses Foto wurde nur 5 Minuten nach dem Umtopfen der Pflanze aufgenommen. Vorher stand sie in einem größeren Topf, in dem sie genauso aussah. Ich habe sie umgetopft, weil ich den Topf brauchte, aber die Pflanze nicht wegwerfen wollte. Der Pflanze geht es gut, aber sie sieht im Moment etwas mitgenommen aus. Bilder folgen

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Ok, as i enter week 4 I'm a little nervous about the growth of these unknown strains. I'm a day away from week 4, one of the plants is very stunted, looks like its having an issue with a nitrogen deficiency? Otherwise I've topped the other two which seem to be doing moderately better, but one of them looks like its about to follow suit of the other plant. UPDATE; I have replaced the previous pictures posted of the plants with these. As you can tell I have varying deficiency peaking through, especially #2 my wife's plant, if anyone can shed some light, please do so as it is progressing quickly. Right now they're just drinking ph'd water and that is all.

Very nice and healthy and easy veg grow..flipped

Has been a very big week in the Rando clone tent . Massive amounts of growth going on here and already getting trichomeson all the leaves . This is the same strain as my gifted plant diary. I am doing things a bit different and so far it's working . Lots of size increase on the buds and this plant is finally getting a bit of smell to it . These 4 plants I believe are way healthier that my big plant ever was and its already showing in the flower development. I dropped the nutrients to a 1/3 of the charts and haven't got any nutrient burns on the upper bud leaves . I think I hit this plants sweet spot and that's 750 to 800 ppm . Anyways they tripled in size this week so I am expecting some big things from this tent . Keep watching its just going to get better lol.

So far so good. Scrog installed at 5 days into flower. Blueberry OG taking off. What a fantastic phenotype and plant. Grows excellent in my environment

Day 72 since seed touched soil. All is okeish in garden. Twins are showing signs of light burn and toxicity. I always get toxicity during first few waterings with slow release nutes. One twin is bigger and way frostier than any other plant in garden. Mars TSL2000 is now on very healthy distance. Works fine. Temps are in good range. Humidity spikes to 70 on watering day, but is in 60-65 during others. Happy Growing !!!

Trimmed off most the fan leaves to give light to lower bud sites. Ghost train haze plants on the right side are flowering nicely and the wine guns left side are a 10 week strain so a bit behid and dont forget about the cold creek kush shes in there some where

10.07 Heat is under control. There is only problems with Sciaris. 13.07 Everything is going quite well, the temperature is a bit annoying, without air conditioning is not easy, I hope that tomorrow I will be able to install it. I fight Sciaris flies with bacteria and oils, but the population persists, but it is under control

I started germination of 1 Strawberry lemonade bean on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plug was just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made hole. Than I sowed my bean into the hole. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the hole in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plug into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see a sprout. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plug planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get this lady situated into her home. Cant wait! Some background information on my experience with Strawberry lemonade. Ive only grown this variety out once. In a 1 gallon SOG grow where she faired ok. I could tell she really wanted to explode and branch out. But a restricted root mass just would not allow for it. She had some of the sweetest tasting flowers that came with a strong potent kick. Really looking forward to giving her a larger container and see what she can do when shes let loose.

The final week! 12 weeks since germination, 11 since first sprout. These Apollo F1's vastly outgrew their advertised size and bud density. I will be cutting them down tomorrow and updating with the harvest page and photos soon. Great second grow!

Plant #4 - I started her flush last Tuesday April 30th due to all the fan leaves turning yellow. I'm wanting her to finish at this point but whatever it takes. I will be starting my next grow in the same tent though. Thanks for looking and all kind comments.

*************** 24.03. Day 12 *************** The ladies are free-growing and rooted in a 19L pot with 80g of greenhouse feeding biogrow. Currently watered with 500ml *******************************************

Madonna ragazzi come cresce bene la Critical Lemon ⚡🍋 sotto il controllo di TENT-X 🤖 Direi che siamo al 🔝😋

Week 5 of flower, looking 👍🏾

14/05: EC: 1,23 PH: 5,22 Removed all LST hooks 15/05: EC: 1,15 PH: 5,92 16/05: Added Nuts EC: 1,3 PH: 6,08 17/05: EC: 1,3 PH: 6,1 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Lesson Learned: AS SOON AS THE MAIN BUDS RAISE UP MOVE THE LAMP ON THE CEILING TO AVOID BURNS 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 18/05: Changed Grow Box SetUp . I had burning lights problem and I moved the lamps on the grow box ceiling EC: 1,42 PH: 5,99 19/05: EC: 1,25 PH: 5,46 20/05: EC: 1,25 PH: 6,03

Hola , esta es la última semana de floración del seguimiento de las "WAKAS" , Se consiguió lograr un amarilleo más notorio en algunas plantas , estas estuvieron desde el 11 de noviembre solamente con agua , en total tuvieron 27 días sin fertilizantes que solamente se regó con agua. se cortó este seguimiento el dia 8 de Diciembre guiándonos por la fase lunares con 70 dias de floracion y cerca de 102 días de vida total. Muy contento de poder haber cultivado esta genética que estoy con ansias de poder probar y testear. dejamos igual un video con el espíritu navideño jajaj... Hello, this is the last week of flowering of the follow-up of the "WAKAS", It was possible to achieve a more noticeable yellowing in some plants, the latter since November 11 only with water, in total they had 27 days without fertilizers that only watered with water This follow-up was cut on December 8, guiding us through the lunar phase with 70 days of flowering and about 102 days of total life. Very happy to have cultivated this genetics that I am looking forward to being able to test and test. we leave the same video with the Christmas spirit haha ​​..

Plant 1: This was the highly trained and defoliated plant. It stayed the shortest and doesn't have very dense nugs likely because of its distance from the lights given the height of plants 2 and 3. Ended up with 2.5oz after 9 days of hanging. Plant 3: This was the second most highly trained plant. Not as much tying down so has some height. Nugs are more dense than plant 1. Ended up with 3.2oz after 10 days of hanging. OMG!!! Plant 2: dried and jarred. Final weight... 10.6oz!!! that's a total of 16.4oz for 3 autos! I'm so pumped...🤯😍🤘🤓📉00