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This week we lost one of the Slurricane due to rotten root that were caused by the electricity blackout. Other plant were doing fine. Hope everything will be good until harvest.
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@Esiking
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hi guys.my BIG is geting flush with pure water.after that i will use flawlessfinish twice and then harvest.its 4 months old plant. just guess the yield friends. thank you.
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Didnt touch the Plants really Sinne 2 of them hermed. Just Talking off Fan Leaves. Ec: about 1,4-1,5 now
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This week went very well! One will be getting cut an hung to dry while the rest finish up with one more week of flush ! These ladies are smelling so lovely I hope you all enjoy! Stay tuned for next week! Cheers 😤💨💨💨💨💨
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@CalGonJim
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1/12 4:14AM MONDAY!!!!!!!! CBG IS GOOD!1 LOWERD THE WATTAGE, EFFICIENCY IS GOOD. GREAT WHITE MYCO HAS INCREASED UPTAKE AND AND!!!! PHOTOSYNTHESIS EFFICIENCY ......FUCKING AWESOME 💪💪💪💪 1/12 4:47AM I asked GROK: are samsung leds on my mars hydro lights seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says, I lowered the lights again by a few watts? Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/13/26 7:47AM BRUTAL WEEK FOR THE MOP AND BUCKET GUYS AT MUDRUROS COMPOUND 1/13, 11:22 AM banana purple punch auto RF three is doing really great. I haven’t really needed to do anything. I decided not to top. I didn’t want to do anything except light stress training. I think she’s gonna turn out just great. Her stock is one of the thickest. She’s just perfect.😍😍😍
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Hello Diary. The first week of vegetation is behind me and for now all the plants are growing nicely on my little farm. I put the Fat Banana in the middle between the two Haze Berrys, I'll see how it fits her there. I started adding BioBizz on schedule for the first week of vegetation and p.H. I regulate with Plagron’s Lemon Kick. The temperature and humidity are satisfactory, so I no longer used a humidifier. Here's how the week went. 25/09/2020 - Day 1. Photography. Fat Banana is officially 1. day old. I mean by the first day when the plant gets the other two leaves. Then it is no longer sprout. Fat Banana - Day 1. - 5.5 cm Temp / Humidity on the farm - 25.8 degrees and 52% humidity. 26/09/2020 - Day 2. Watering. First feeding. I regulated p.H. at 6.1 and added BioBizz's Root-Juice - 4ml / L, Bio-Heaven 2ml / L and Acti-Vera 2ml / L. Each plant received a liter of water. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.9 degrees and 45% humidity. 29/09/2020 - Day 5. Watering. p.H. is regulated to 6.3 and I added BioBizz on a schedule for the first week. Like three days earlier. This time I watered with 1.5 lit. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.2 degrees and 45% humidity. 01/10/2020 - Day 7. Photography. The first week is officially behind us. Fat Banana is progressing nicely, although it lags a bit behind Haze Berry's roommate, but otherwise everything is cool. Fat Banana - 10 cm - Day 7. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.8 degrees and 50% humidity. What to say at the end of the first week, I am pleased with how the plants are progressing and I will try to please them as best I can. See you next week.
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@Drtomb
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This is the final week these girls have to get there tan on in the flower tent. Next weekend is harvest. I've been running straight water for the last 3 days. Will continue the course for a total of 7 days followed by a couple days of nothing to allow the roots to dry.
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Guys, Ladies Gents we made it!!!!! Hanging to dry will do smoke updated and let you know how much we yeilded here!!!! hahah Holy Shit im excited. This is fully my forst organic living soil Grow and she turned out amazing I am never going bacl to bottled bnutrients hahaha I say that but we seee Im digg and loveing all ORGANIC Ill be back with more info and a smoke review She smells amazing gave me some thick sticky stanky coals!!! much love thaks for checking her out love yall
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@Coopmc
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Lumberjack today!!
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@Ogfredd
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Creo que falta poco. Cometí un error en unos riegos los cuales no verifique pH y bueno demostró carencia de calcio y magnesio por lo que creo
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@BLAZED
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Week 14 (17-10 to 23-10) 17-10 Temperature: 23.4 degrees (lights on) 17.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 70% (highest) 55% (lowest) Watering: 400 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 18-10 Temperature: 23.6 degrees (lights on) 17.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 70% (highest) 54% (lowest) Watering: 900 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 19-10 Temperature: 24.3 degrees (lights on) 17.8 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 81% (highest) 59% (lowest) Watering: 1210 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 1.7 (with Hybrids & PK+) 20-10 Temperature: 25.1 degrees (lights on) 18.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 84% (highest) 62% (lowest) Watering: None. 21-10 Temperature: 25.6 degrees (lights on) 18.6 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 99% (highest) 64% (lowest) Watering: 1200 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 22-10 Temperature: 25.8 degrees (lights on) 19.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 89% (highest) 63% (lowest) Watering: None. 23-10 Temperature: 25.7 degrees (lights on) 19.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 89% (highest) 60% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 1.7 (with Hybrids & PK+)
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Run two with pineapple muffins! And my cure from run one is smelling absolutely delicious. This first Pheno of pineapple muffins is showing the same traits of my Pheno 1 first run. I’m going to cross breed this Pheno with humboldt headband or possibly grape odder popz depending on how those Pheno hunts are looking as well.
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@Jd1971
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Biosys instant microbe tea once a week:)))))
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@Reyden
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È arrivato il momento di pulire i boccioli delle ragazze di @anesiaseeds che sono fenomenali con dei fiori gelidi, pieni di resina, un ottimo profumo che ancora dovrà migliorare nel tempo…cercando di fare una buona concia che è sempre importantissima nel processo di guarigione per avere un fumo delicato e non pesante per la gola, questo fumo è già ottimo! Ottimo lavoro Anesia Seeds
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I think they are going to start flowering soon, the little white hairs are going crazy now lol, didnt realize I wasn’t giving them nutrients 😭 so stared them on it hopefully they’ll grow even bigger. Been learning a lot for my next grow but all in all these babies are doing very well
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@mauigrown
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In week 5 of flower and decided to start documenting my indoor 2x4 grow setup. We currently just finished day 3 of week 5. I have my lights running from 9:15PM - 8:45AM. I am not sure how I messed up on my timer but that's been my schedule since flipping to flower. I have an A/C in my bedroom that I duct into the tent. I have my A/C set at 62F and the tent gets to around 71-75F with the lights on. Lights off it ranges from 68-70F. I have a small dehumidifier in the tent that needs to be replaced because it is not efficient. I have an intake fan running at full blast at all times and my exhaust fan is automated to turn on based on temp and humidity. Week 5 has brought on a lot of strong dank smells and a whole lot of weight to the buds. They are really starting to thicken up! I have not had too many issues with this grow so far and luckily, the tent in clean and bug-free. Lots of resin and terpene production going on and you can smell and see it increase daily! I am following General Hydroponics Flora Series 6-Part grow chart. I am currently following the medium strength chart. I'll measure everything out exactly as the chart suggest then dilute my mix until I get to my desired PPM of 1000-1200. I PH around 6.2-5.8 and then add my microbes. I changed up my watering technique mid grow due to an issue I dealt with and now watering 2x a day. Lights on and right before lights off. If my lights didn't run overnight, I would like to add in a 3rd watering in the middle of my light cycle but 2 a day is working for now. I water until there is a good amount of runoff. I measure the PPM of my runoff compared to the PPM of my inflow mix and will keep watering until the runoff is 300PPM or less over my input. So if my mix is 1000 PPM and my runoff is 1600PPM, I will go back and water or as I like to think about it, rinse off the coco until my runoff PPM is at 1300-1000. It is a little tedious but it's a habit I formed and it does not take much longer to ensure your PPMs in the root zone is perfectly where I want it. I defoliated right before flipping to flower. Then defoliated 2 weeks later, and then a minor defoliation on week 4 of big fan leaves. I most likely won't be taking off any more leaves for the rest of the grow unless they are really blocking the light. I am planning on harvesting in week 8 or 9, depending on when the plant is showing it is ready. For General Hydroponics line, it has been the same nutrient strength/mix from week 3-5. Next week, Week 6, we start lowering the strength and adjust the amounts as we get into the later stages of flower and eventually will be flushing. For my flush, I will be using GH Florakleen, GH ripen, Mammoth P, and Bio-Fizz. Excited to see how these girls turn out! I'll be adding my outdoor grow as well as a new veg tent that I setup yesterday in my room. Stay tuned!
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@Titoff
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Depuis la fin de la semaine 10, j’avais commencé mon rinçage après avoir observé les trichomes à l’aide de différents appareils, microscope de poche vendu dans les Growshops, microscope à fixer sur son smartphone ou encore les lentilles macro de type Apexel lens 2 en 1.... Les lentilles macro m’ont permis de voir de manières assez aisées que ceux-ci étaient pour la plus pars laiteux, j’avais donc pensé que c’était le moment pour moi, d’entreprendre ma période de rinçage. J’avais lu sur différents sites qu’il fallait effectuer 2 semaines de rinçages afin d’éliminé tous trace de nutriments et d’avoir un weed savoureuse. Je pensais donc que le timing était bon et que mes 2 semaines supplémentaires me donneraient les 15 à 20% de trichomes ambrés mais j’arrive à la fin de la première semaine de rinçage et très peu d’ambré. J’ai donc ce weekend redonné un peu d’engrais, car les feuilles sont en pleines sénescences et la maturation des trichomes demande encore un peu de temps. Un peu perdu, pour être honnête, le contrôle de ce jour montre un stress plutôt bénéfique pour les filles qui vont être à nouveaux rincées. Afin de m’aider au mieux, j’ai commandé l’appareil Higrade analyseur de cannabis que je recevrais lundi, je vous donnerais donc plus de détails par la suite mais cet appareil est sensé nous donné de précieuses données quand coupé, taux de THC, carence, maladie bref un gadget qui promet de belle prouesse à voir donc. Cependant après plusieurs recherches, j’ai appris que l’on commençait son rinçage seulement quand les trichomes devenaient ambrés et après 10 jours de rinçages et après on coupe....
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