Week went again very uneventful, she is not very hungry anymore and had to constantly refill the reservoir with water to keep the ec in check. Trichomes are all cloudy and start to turn amber. She has developed that amazing purple hue and is sticky to the max, so definitely showing her glue heritable ;) I will continue to feed her until Wednesday this week and then start the flushing and darkness. Harvest will be next week end.

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

Photoperiod buds 🤩 The smell is absolutely divine very fruity,sweet & tropical🍋🍊🍉🍌 Solid like a diamond 💎 Bay harbor butcher’s trim to show the density

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 9 since the time was changed to 12/12 h. Hey everyone 😀. The lady has started to stretch very nicely :-). She is developing very well without any problems 👍. I added 2 g of GHSC Powder Feeding per liter of coconut beforehand. In 16-22 days I will add another 1 g per l cocos. Today, like every two weeks, I added 1 g of GHSC Enhancer. I also removed the bottom shoots. As every day, the tent was cleaned, the humidifier was refilled and the entire electronics were checked for functionality. I am very curious how it will develop in the coming week and I wish you all a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/4532-zamnesia-seeds-gorilla-glue-feminisiert.html Type: Gorilla Glue ☝️🏼 Genetics: Chem's Sister x Chocolate Diesel 50% Sativa/50% Indica 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Looks like this might be the last week for this girl. Was hoping to see more change in tricomes but not sure if worth the wait. Give it a few more days and see what the loop says.

Hi... So this is my first time taking things a bit more seriously. Open for tips and advice. usually looking fore flavor rather than production. First week on 250w Also, pics are taken with the mobile... better pics next week

Beginning of week... Well, I had to work late last night.. So, she wasn't watered for 24 hours.. I have been having to water/feed 2 to 3 times a day due to the media drying out.. The roots are insane in the cup.. Alot aLoT ALOT of fuckin roots.. This is my first cup grow that had this much roots.. So yeah, I could see her drinking like a mf.. Which she does.. She is happy and healthy... Besides the underwatering today.. I couldn't be more happy with the way this girl is growing. After 7 days of 12/12 and the tops are starting to form pistils.. Next week should be epic pistil growth by the way she's been growing so far.. Will update when she perks up from the underwatering.. Later that day.. Shit.. She perked up.. But not enough to show a full recovery pic.. I watered when I took the underwatered pic and before lights went out.. That was only about... 4 hours.. Usually the girlies perk up after about an hour or maybe 2.. I'm sure she will be fine in the AM.. Oh yeah I forgot to add in the veg cycle I was adding 1mL per L of water of Silica.. So that should have helped her build up a good immunity to my abuse.. This is the only hiccup so far in the grow.. No more stress! Will update on the issue in the AM with pics whether she fully recovered or not 24 hours after decovering she was underwatered... She perked back up.. I forgot to mention that I have been bending the tops to help the lower branches stretch up some.. I remember reading somewhere that is another form of LST, I believe. I'm pretty much just bending the top 2 - 3 nodes to point straight down.. Which is just enough to not snap the top completely off.. When I release the top she stays pointed pretty much at 90° away from the center of the plant.. A few more side branches have almost caught up to their main tops. I read that it kinda like tricks the plant into thinking she's topped 'in a way'.. I feel like it just stresses the branch upward from where the most bending is at.. And the side branches are not being stressed at all so they keep growing/stretching at normal speed, if not a little faster, while the top above the bend has been stressed and slows down, if not stops completely. Just my 2 cents on the dealio.. Just bend the main tops downward 180° from the center of the plant, so that when you release the tops, they stay bent over at 90° (or tied like LST) and let the bottom branches get all the light.. After a couple hours, the tops will have probably already pointed back upward..😁 The capacitor on my home AC went out.. Temps in the tent got up to 90° F.. Leaves were pointing upward.. Praying.. But also canoeing.. Luckily I checked google and youtube on how to fix it.. I fixed it in under 15 mins.. Got the temps back down to normal and just made sure I kept her good and watered thru the heat stress. She is good now tho. The pics for today were 6 hours after seeing the heat stress. When I say LST this week.. Its just bending the tops down as I stated earlier in the grow.. I even removed the ties that I did have.. I shouldn't have done that because the tops kinda bunched together.. Oh well.. Live and learn.. Shouldn't create any issues.. Its easier to water now.. i was using a 1 fl oz turkey baster that worked very well.. But also time consuming.. Now I can just pour straight out of the powerade bottle I use to mix and store nutes and water.. I never keep anything mixed for more than 2 or 3 days at the most.. I have just ordered a bunch of hydroponic stuff.. And organic stuff... I can't run both at the same time.. I don't know which to try first.. Im thinking try hydro first.. Then organics because I think organics MAY be where I end up but still wanna try hydro to see how it ends up.. Hmmm... Went ahead and lollipopped her and bent the main tops down.. One branch kinda snapped so I think it was pretty much supercropped lol whoops.. Didnt break the skin tho.. I dont really care for defoliating alot.. But I always end up doing it anyway.. I need to stop lol

to mutch cold here 2 week with low temps at night cicle betwen 12 &16 graus in europe. maybe this is the reason of that purple orange colors (:

She bounced back from last week. Temps are up and down in the outside environment. Not too much problem here. Trying to sweeten her up a bit with the bud candy.

Ok so today is day 9 and I have had a change of plans for the grow and have lost 4 of the 9 papaya cookie seedlings.Probably just a stroke of bad luck but I must move forward.I have 5 papaya cookies,1 gelato auto and 3 mystery photos from fast buds mix pack in the tent that will flourish after the autos finish.Just plain water every few days is the plan and recharge once every 10 days.SE7000 is raised to the ceiling of my 5x5 80 inch high tent set at 30 percent power.

Looking pretty good all around, some plants in this crop are short but it's all good. Theres some plants in the tent I'm not doing diaries on they're clones from last run I wanted to run back but they are in 2 gal bags instead of 3.

Usamos la red de scrog

Super easy week, just watering the ladies when they need it. Still concerned about the humidity so I’m going to start using my dehumidifier outside of the tent. I’ll monitor the humidity each day and set my humidifier on a schedule based upon the data collected. Soon I’ll be adding in another layer of netting to help support the branches and space them out more for better airflow and a more “sea of green” look. I usually vegetate for longer but I wanted to see if I could shorten my grow times and produce about the same results. Time will tell!

This grow was pretty simple ! They went a total of 103 days from seed! Very trichomy dense buds with the smell of Berries vanilla and skunk ! This is a must try for you all Fastbuds has the greats!!!

Same as week 15, missing a lot of pictures in the timelapse. The storm caused part of the seal to be broken, and the person taking care of it this week was unable to fix it properly. I only got to fix it about two days after, so there has been some light pollution :(.

She is smth special!!!! Unbelievable

This week Went very uneventful. Reduced the fertilizer down to 600ppm and flushed twice on Wednesday and Thursday, on Wednesday I still had 100ppm in the tank after the second flush it went down to 0. Kept her in darkness until Friday night and then started chopping her down.

This they popped after 2 days of being in the soil. They’re stretching but not too much. I have a fan blowing against the wall in my 2x2 grow tent. I have the phlox on 2x4 grow light on the lowest level 18” above the plant with an avg temp of 75 & RH of 47%.

Apologies for not updating last week, I have just been really busy! These last couple of weeks have been great - her growth is coming along very well. There are no signs of any deficiencies as of yet, what is your opinion! In regards to defoliating and lollipopping - what growth would you suggest I get rid off?