7/2 Last week it was extremely hot (80's-90's) with cold nights. We had a severe thunderstorm last night and it's raining like crazy today. I didn't spend time in the garden as it was pouring. However I defoliated yesterday briefly. I had maybe a half dozen leaves yellow and die a couple days after the organicide application. They were mostly the largest oldest fan leaves most infected with pm. A couple smaller interior leaves yellowed and died as well but they were the leaves most infected. I assume that's normal. As I defoliated I noticed my first aphid of the season. I saw a few dead ones the organicide killed and a couple that were alive. Aphids aren't a big deal. They'll be evicted soon enough. I haven't seen one spot of pm though since the application. Maybe a little on a dead leaf but it seems to be working good. Didn't take pictures today but needed one to update the diary. Trying to upload videos but they take forever. 7/3 Ridiculously hot all last week. Extremely hot yesterday then a severe thunderstorm but it cleared to 90 degrees with 90%rh. This environment is a fungal nirvana. Still a slight smell from the organicide. I'm glad I used it though. I threw away some more leaves but this is the time that starts happening anyway. Before the stretch. With the ideal conditions I saw WPM rear it's head again. Only this time the organicide seemed to still have a residue. The PM only infected the super old biggest fan leaves and a few tiny tiny leaves on the very interior of the plant. I didn't know I had aphids but I've found a few dead on the underside of leaves I defoliated. So it seems to be working. My plants are growing towards the sun (partially due to my tarps which I need to be legal) which make airflow harder to maintain. My dad gave away my pallets this year. I had planned to put bags and supports on pallets with some sort of wheel so I could spin them. Oh well I'll do that next year in my new location. I have also found moth holes in couple leaves so BT it will still be needed. If videos didn't take so long to upload I would have a bunch. Happy growing. 7/5 Watered lightly (as it had been 90's) before feeding three gallons to the garden. Noticed some telltale leafhopper signs on a 9lb kush. The organicide seems to be doing a decent job of keeping PM at bay. The blueberry is now the worst it seems. I'm planning on another application before I try anything heavier. The fishy smell is now totally gone. Plants seem healthy and are a nice dark green. I have had some problems that have effected my ability to fully care for my girls. I have some defoliation I need to do. I also see moths sometimes in the morning plus the pm and the random munch. I guess that's to be expected outside but I need to get on top of this shit. I also have more LST I could be doing. 7/6 Rained all night and still off and on. Can't see any pm but I've found a few spots on the blueberry that could be septoria. I'm going to hit them either tonight or tomorrow with the organicide and if it doesn't work I may try a sulfer based fungacide. Took a few pictures. I need to defoliate as well. 7/7 Uploaded some duplicate pics accidentally. If I could've created the perfect environment for fungal infections I don't think I could've done better than yesterday. Hence the organicide. I was surprised it wasn't pronounced and only a little here and there. Also saw leaf hopper and pillar damage so hopefully this will straighten that out. Blueberry seems weak in it's stalk. I'm not sure if the wind is blowing it against that hard metal circle around it. It may have septoria. If it does I'll have to switch to something different or junk the plant. 7/8 This sucks. I can see signs of leaf septoria on the GDPs. This is definitely not a strain for the Maine climate. It's not resilient enough against diseases. This year has been particularly bad with 40 degree temp swings and rain then bright hot sun. I couldn't engineer better conditions. I appears senescence starts at the same time looking back over the past four years. However maybe that's just the life cycle of the earwigs. Oh yeah. I raked the inside of the grow bag with my hand and AT LEAST a half dozen earwigs came out RIGHT FROM THE SOIL IN THE BAG. I dealt with these prehistoric bastards last year and lost half my harvest. They eat other insects but the spread disease like crazy and they DO eat your plant while leaving behind the worst bacteria and plant disease. I have research to do. Like I said. This sucks. I'm changing locations next year but I need some help dealing with the septoria and the earwigs or I'll be fucked again. I defoliated anything that looked suspect. Still need to improve airflow.

This week started off a little rocky but I’ve gotten it under control. I guess I didn’t feed her enough nutes over the first few weeks and she started showing a calcium deficiency. I just added Cal Mag and that brought back to life. You can tell from the pics that she was fading into a lime green shade. It could’ve also been a nitrogen deficiency as well that was going on. Other than that she’s growing fast and getting bigger every day. But I hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas and Happy New Year! Enjoy the holidays, be safe, and happy growing! ✌️🏾

This week was pretty rainy and the plants didn't get much sun... Hopefully the buds didn't get moldy! 🙄 The Amnesia Mac Ganja got pre-harvested but she needs one more week to go. (High was uplifting! 😍) The Quick Ones are stacking buds now! Really amazing! They need 3 weeks to get finished... I hope the weather gets more sunny. ☀️🙏🏼 Royal Sherbet started flowering 2 weeks ago so they also need some weeks to get ready... At least 4 weeks to go I guess. 👀 Stay tuned and Keep growing everyone! 💚🌱

Starting 3 week in veg..looks good and I just started some LST..if everything goes well I will put them in flowering in about 2 weeks! Let’s see the progress!! Booommm

Harvest a quarter pound out of 3 Autoflower plants

Esta es la última semana de estiramiento. Espero que no sigan subiendo. Apliqué LST para mantener la altura. Por el momento vienen sanas, pero tardan mucho en mostrar las pre flores. Hice una defoliación fuerte en todos los bajos. Voy a dejar pocas ramas laterales, pero algunas voy a dejar. Aún no se junta suficiente humedad como para poner el ventilador, y con la ventilación es suficiente para moverlas. De todos modos en una semana o dos lo prenderé. Por el momento estoy expectante de todo. Día 10. Las plantas se están estirando demasiado. Espero que frenen pronto para evitar un LST en todas las ramas. Aún las pre flores están muy cerradas, pero tengo fé en que pronto se verán. La temperatura en general ha bajado un poco, pero dentro de todo mantengo un máximo de 26C°, pero intentaré subir un poco. Seguiremos actualizando. Día 12. Tuve que hacer un atado de plantas importante. Pero pude manejar la altura al momento. Ya se acaba el estiramiento, pero las pre flores aún siguen muy inmaduras para dos semanas. Son las desventajas de un mal bioestimulante. Pero ya van dos semanas y se nota en la estructura de los troncos. La semana que viene empieza la nutrición mas fuerte. Día 14. Cierra la semana con un LST furioso. Até todas las plantas, incluso el caño que uso de anclaje lo tuve que atar a la base que sostiene los caños. El estiramiento fue fuerte. Tuve que cortar algunas ramas que quedaron muy debajo. Todavía me cuesta visualizar cómo quedarán esas flores cuando engorden. Ya mañana comienza la nueva semana y espero que sea una semana de cambios interesantes. Mirando otros diarios viejos en mi teléfono, me encontré que formulaba de entrada con 1,2g./l de feeding. Así que imagino que voy a volver a esas dosis un poco mast agresivas. Tengo buenos recuerdos de los resultados anteriores.

Il y as eu de grosse chaleur cette semaine il fesais 30 dans la tente à certain moment de la journée 😬 il y a eu le topping aussi des plant

1/12 start of week 2 she’s getting bigger every time I open the tent 😂 didn’t need to water today we’ll check again later. 2/12 didn’t do much just a light water 3/12 Doomday 😂 my temperature and humidity monitor came and I realised my poor plant was in the desert and thanks to the community I also realised I’m growing in a massive fire hazard I purchased a new light and temperature has dropped thank god and thanks to everyone who answered my question. We’ll see how we get on with this CFL light 3/12 I also fed her this morning 1l of water with 2.5ml of Canna vega 4/12 nothing to be done 5/12 same as day before I think she’s looking good tho

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de crecimiento de estas Tropicana poison F1 de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío , las 3 plantas seleccionadas fueron trasplantadas a su maceta definitiva, ya superaron el shock por el trasplante, estas semanas las paremos todas a floración. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 18h de luz, el foco está al 100% de potencia. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

WEEK 8 ~ Beginning of week 2 Flower DAY 8 of Flowering This week Has Been nothing but CRAZY GROWTH!! All plants are super healthy and starting to show their first signs of blooming 🌸 .. last few days I’ve been seeing a little discoloration on one of my kosher lush pheno’s turns out it’s just coco being a biotch again!( PH BEING TO LOW NOW) Lol .. I know it’s only a week in so for me it’s crazy to already see trichomes starting to form . I brought in some support for the plants that should help me with some LST . Next move is putting some bamboo/wooden sticks into a grid over all the plants and making those tops pop up all over this 5x5 !! I Just started some new wet Betty seeds and they are already taking off.. lol 180$ on 6 seeds I’ll die if they die🙏But hey guys thanks for checking in and keeping updated on this grow again any questions or any tips I’d love to hear thanks!! ~Garcia’s Garden

Shes my baby she's doing real good getting lot of Bud formations real wide plant I'm happy with her very happy tell next time happy growing

Day45 continue main lining,lst and def. Day46 2,5lt ro water 2,5ml sensi cal mag extra Total 200 ppm pH6.2 Drain 150 ml 880 ppm. Day49 18.01 3lt ro water 4ml growA 4ml growB total 1050 ppm ph 6,1 Drain 200ml 1080ppm.

UPDATES: - Temp drifting 1-2'C higher due to weather changes. - Nutes changed slightly. - VPD increase of 0.15kPa. - UVB introduced. (2 hours a day at 30cm, mid light cycle) GENETICS: -MSNL - Gorilla Glue Auto ~ my favorite strain, as you can tell by my username! WATER: -Condensed (Starting at 40ppm) -Disinfected prior to adding nutrients etc. (Using COOSPIDER UVC - 253nm & 187nm bulb) CLIMATE: - Ambient Air Temp = 28/30'C ~ 26/27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C - Night Temp = 22/23'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C - Under Canopy Temp: 26'C (Day) ~ 21'C (Night) - Relative Humidity = 50-60%RH (Avg. 55%RH) - VPD = 1.45kPa (Avg.) - Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm) AIR PRESSURE: - Ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = Mean Avg. 1010 mbars (101 Kilopascals) - Actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = Mean Avg. 1005 mbars (100.5 Kilopascals) - Air Pressure Differential = up to 0.5 kPa range between inside & outside LIGHT: - MIGRO UVB310 ~ 2 hours daily mid light cycle. - Warm White 3000K/White 5000k/Far Red (660nm) - At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 45,000-55,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65 - Under canopy lighting ~ Blue (460nm)/ Red (630nm) NUTRIENTS: - Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on) - Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym) - Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae) ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES: - Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course. - Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away) - No HST or Defoliation. INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL: Infection control practices i.e -PPE, Alcohol Hand wash -Gray room outside tent, -Carbon filter -HEPA filter -Plasma Ionizer -Inline UV-C germicidal bulb - Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. - Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. - Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak (No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)

Soweit so gut. Die Blüte neigt sich langsam aber sicher dem Ende bzw geht in die letzte Phase, ein paar Wochen brauchen die Ladies aber noch. Hinten rechts scheint von Anfang an schneller und dementsprechend auch eventuell eher fertig zu sein, mal schauen wie sich das entwickelt. Die Ladies werden etwas "rostig" aber ich denke das ist in dem Stadium kein Problem bzw einfach der Zahn der Zeit, der an ihnen nagt. Der Geruch wird stärker und die Spannung steigt 🙏🏻💚

Weather is getting a bit better this week. Almost no rain anymore and much more sun comparing to last week. Blueberry Ghost OG and Kali AK still don't want to start flowering, but they slowed down from growing taller at least, so there are hope of they to start flowering soon (hopefully).

All most time to start flushing I will do a 2 week flush

Hello to all padawans and Jedi masters What a week! The last 2 plants of this magnificent diarie are simply sumptuous 😉 A treat for the eyes and for the olfactory system! Nothing to say about the techniques used this week because I do nothing more than water them. 😊 Blueberry attacks senescance her trichomes are amber to the tune of 10% I think I'll harvest it this week Bubblegum is in full bloom I expect a very big yield For an autoflowering See you soon Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Quelle semaine ! Les 2 derniers plants de ce magnifique diarie sont tout simplement somptueux 😉 Un régal pour les yeux et pour le système olfactif ! Rien à dire sur les techniques employés durant cette semaine car je ne fais rien de plus que les arroser. 😊 La blueberry attaque la senescance ses trichomes sont ambrés à hauteur de 10% je pense la récolter cette semaine La bubblegum est en pleine floraison Je m'attends à un très gros rendement Pour une autofloraison À bientôt

it was a super week, the girls grew nicely, the full moon is always effective. :) I like to grow cannabis.