Week 6 flower in the 5x10 started yesterday Getting frosty ❄️

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Dernière formation avant la flow dans environ 2 se

Flowering is coming along well.. each plant is starting to show signs of frosty fan leaves and the bud sites are starting to swell. I also took a video of both

Hello buds! I’ve actually splitted the Dance World diary in two since I took the other one out of the grow box and started some hard training with her (see the diary). This one has FINALLY started flowering, after two weeks passed creating something that looked like flowers, which was definitely not flowers. Like the shape of flowers with no pistils. Pistils now came out from that “shape”, and there we go! After last week flush I’ve started (again) with bloom nutes (week 1). I hope to be able to complete previous weeks with some photos I took, but for the moment, if you want to follow the veg growth of this one, please look at the other Dance World diary. Enjoy and happy growing 😃

Week 9 Watering in at 600ml, lowing temps to 22-20c (Mother Nature) starting to scope the trichomes almost completely cloudy very few amber.

Harvest - Let me start off by saying how impressed I am with this plant and the flower produced, not only was it consistent with the description but it seems to be consistent across other diaries that i've seen - really top notch job i'd say. Grow: Growing went without hassle, this plant started off it's life from seed being vegged under my hlg quantum board for the first 5 weeks of its life - after that I left it inside under 5-6 hours of direct sunlight to flower, bud chunked out nicely and i am impressed by the yeild considering the amount of light. Smoke: I love this bud, It is truly pleasant to smoke - so smooth you could smoke it constantly without fear of harshness. The creamy and sweet flavor are a real treat. I will definitely be growing this again

📆 Week 4, 27 May - 2 June 2024 27-30 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 31 May - Cut small shoots off side branches. Placed trellis frame on DWC bucket. 1-2 Jun - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 This was a good week for Pablo. She is very vigorous and healthy. I only allow the main branches to grow, cutting off any side shoots at this point and she is responding well to this method of training. I will see how she looks after another week of growth. I placed the trellis frame on to prepare her for the scrog net in the upcoming week or two. 🍶 28 May nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 28 May feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient solution EC 2.6 at 72 degrees F 🔆 Light power at 60%, DLI 25 canopy coverage at 18hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

Light schedule is changed and she's ready to go

Какое же красивое растение!!! Аромат яблока 🍏 и сладостей, есть нотки дизеля.

Welcome to Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆. Day 62 since time change to 12 / 12h The last week before the harvest has come 🎊. Hey everyone 🤗. The time has come. The last days and hours have struck for this great lady 😃. In the coming days she will move to the darkroom and spend another 48 hours there in complete darkness 😋. Of course, there will be an update before the big update after fermentation 👌. In the last update there is again a detailed description of the individual strain. I'm really looking forward to finally being able to try the strain 😄. It looks beautiful and smells extremely tasty 😍. It is a genetic perfection 👍 all shoots have grown up, it looks very symmetrical and has simply grown perfectly :-). I am also very enthusiastic about Green House fertilizers 😀👍 . @Greenhouse: Thank you so much for these genetics 😍👍. She will get a place in the mother's closet. I wish you all a lot of fun with the last update before the harvest, stay healthy 🙏🏻, and let it grow 🌱🍀 You can buy this Strain and Nutrients at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0

So this is the starting phase of the light schedule 3 days in so far after they sproutd from the soil in the 3" cups the light schedule is on 16hrs on 8 hrs off. Also there is strictly water being sprayed lightly on and off through the day no heaving water added at all. Will keep it posted, Also if someone could help me better arrange this grow diary that will be greatly appreciated lol sorry thanks!

Vamos familia cuarta semana floración de estás Pink Runtz de RoyalQueenSeeds. Que ganas tengo de ver el progreso de esta variedad, las plantas están marcando una deficiencia que estoy ya solucionándola aplicando los nutrientes necesarios, y estos días espero que recuperen el color. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos. Esta semana ya añadimos nutrientes de floracion estas próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Let’s Go Day 22 from seed for these 5 Ogreberry Autos from @twenty20mendocino and Bruce Banner from @fastbudsgenetics !! Today we turned the Scorpion up to full power and raised it to 38 1/2 inches above pots and getting a reading of 520 - 530 par ! gonna let the babies grow into the light now over the next few weeks till they hit into flower an keep a steady eye on it Incase I got to raise the light higher or lower !! Air temp an humidity has been great , stayin from 70-75 degrees through the day an humidity is staying around 58% ! So far so good Let’s grow lil Babies let’s grow!!! Hope you all enjoy an are ready for another amazing week ! Peace love an positive vibes to all you Growmies out there Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻keep them eyes peeled for next week y’all !! If there’s any questions please ask me ! Thank you all. 💚💯

Coming along nicely now apart from alittle cock up yesterday where I accidentally topped her while trying too lst but I have managed too tape the stem in place so I am hoping my little cock up will force the lower branches too shoot upwards while the broken stem heals , This week I had too change my lighting too 600 true watts of kingbo dual optical LED range due too the temps getting closer too 30c than I would like , and by doing so I have now got a constant temp of 27c lights on and 18c lights out, Update on day 4 or week 3 , My little cock up snapping the main stem while trying to lst the tape seems too have really don't the trick , and although snapping the main stem is not ideal lol , It seems I've managed too top this plant and still get too keep the top , the leaves all look fresh and healthy and feed so I will leave the tape on there for two weeks and then try and remove it as all I had too hand was selotape lol The breakage really do not seemed too affect the top 2 nodes at all apart from trigger the lower plant too stretch out , as this break was bad , like hanging on by a thread bad , so really shocked it took too the repair so easily , and as always I had just been leaching the soil with a single feed that lasts them 7 days , my set up is completely automated and I only go too the grow space once a week but I have a WiFi cam inside the grow space so I can check the temps and how dry the pots are just incase I need too increase the feeding , but too be fair these autos seem too have a mad feed at week 7 and 8 and then drink one feed per week , keeping it simple has helped I think as the plants seem too love it , and I don't need too do anything apart from check the camera , And that's just the way I like it , I pay special attention too the temps in my grow space and a calculator in hand for the nutrients , Other than that I leave them alone too do what they do , I will take some end of week 3 pics over the weekend at some point it's abit of a drive so once a week suits me down too the ground , :) Update on day 5 of week 3 well as you can see from the photos this week has had a huge raise in production , the breakage I did too the main stem has completely healed it's self and the plant has bushed right out at the bottom and top of the plant where it broke , So all in all my little cock up has actually helped the plant grow larger , I today gave them a smaller defoliation basically anything covering a branch that could not be tucked under it I removed , This is too get as much light too these spots as possible too get them too develop before flowering starts , But so far so good , temps are good and no nutrient burns on any of the plants , and the results from day one / first feed on green buzz nutrients too this photo today day 5 is dramatic , the photo of all four was before defoliation , but the defoliation has just shown how busy they have this week and the bud sites on this things already is crazy , my next plan this week is too put the net in there and space out all of the branches too give the best spacing between the breaches

little bit of defoliation upped the ppms to around 500 ppm just fluvic acid and AB GT Coco. Coming along ok definitely a big difference in the strains. I think the GSC will be pretty tall after stretch limiting options on light power. Currently running the light at 50% and 1000ppm co2 Access to tent pretty tight and difficult to get to the GSC have been topping 2nd round and more LST stretching out a bit but the space will crowd up in stretch. Next time I’ll do 4 instead of 6 all same strain.

☀️🥦☀️☀️

FD15 - Today was the start of the third week of flowering. I gave #1 2.5-liters of water @ pH 6.1. FD18 - I gave #2 2-liters of water @ pH 6.6.

Mimosa is putting on some serious weight, extremely vigorous. so far i’m feeding it twice a week with a teaspoon of Biocity bloom and nova bloom and a half teaspoon of biocity silica