The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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Hello friends! Our purple girl moved to a 5 liter pot. I hope she quickly adapts and continues to grow! ahead of her are Topping, and LST))
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Gracias al equipo de Barney's Farm y a MarsHydro por las donaciones. Con un giro totalmente único, Barneys Farm continúa su búsqueda en la creación de una genética pionera con nuestra propia Strawberry Cheesecake Auto. Después de una extensa cría selectiva con nuestras diversas cepas ricas en terpeno de fresa, elegimos un sutil y seductor fenotipo Strawberry Pie. El laboratorio luego cruzó esto con un raro corte de una Afghan OG. La infusión de éstos rasgos Kush dominantes de Indica garantiza un crecimiento rápido, capacidades de producciones increíbles y una fuerte estructura. Cruzar ésta creación con nuestro BF Super Auto #1 significa que Strawberry Cheesecake Auto también puede prosperar en climas más fríos, es perfectamente compacta y completa su ciclo de vida en un abrir y cerrar de ojos. Durante su etapa de crecimiento nuestra Strawberry Cheesecake Auto es típicamente modesta antes de que el rápido crecimiento de sus ramas florales de forma contundente se extienda, sus hojas de color verde oscuro eventualmente se transforman produciendo hermosos tonos púrpura profundos. Como era de esperar, se trata de una planta resinosa muy pegajosa con flores anaranjadas profundas cubiertas de una gruesa capa de tricomas. Los aromas son bastante intrigantes, queso dulce de cabra con toques de "old school Skunk" rematado con sutiles notas de hachís de fresa y bayas silvestres frescas. Consigue aquí tus semillas 😁🌻🚀: https://www.barneysfarm.es/strawberry-cheesecake-auto-569 📆 Semana 1 de crecimiento: Relleno las macetas de tierra evitando espigamientos. Aplico tierra de diatomeas para evitar futuras plagas y humus de lombriz para mejorar el sustrato y así también el sabor final de los cogollos. Solo regaré una vez con nutrientes con una EC de 550 y el resto con agua y calmag hasta 350 ppm, al haber aplicado el humus de lombriz y la tierra de diatomeas. Humedad: 70% Temperatura: 30°C
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@pzwags420
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On week 7 day 1 I chopped two tops that were in the way of getting to the back of the tent. I quick dried them and tested them and determined the girls need another week or more before harvest. I lowered my day time and night time temps by 5 degrees to bring out the colors. On day 5 The trichomes are turning milky and I'm excited for harvest, shouldn't be more than a week :) On day 7 I changed out the reservoir with straight water in order to leech my plants before harvest.
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de floración de estas Orange Sherbet Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Vamos al lío, El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 22/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%, añadimos ya varios productos de la gama de Agrobeta. Las próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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Cosechamos la purple bud la más pequeña y compacta, solo 1 ejemplar de esta variedad, las hojas no se han vuelto purpura pero si los cogollos con algunos matices rosas púrpuras y rojizos muy bonitos y con muy buen aroma
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Les semis se portent bien 🙏🏻 Voilà maintenant 7jours qu’elle sont en pot 05/10/24 J’ai mis un compteur, j’ai actuellement 41 watt de consommation 37 pour la lampe et 4 pour les ventilation Box terminé, lampe fixer et ventilation mise
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@Guinha_s2
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Não coloquei muitos nutriente essa semana, está linda e resinando muito, as vezes deixo no sol por umas 2/3 horas
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She's developed very well. I think there are already many amber trichomes, but also many light hairs. So I'll keep her for another week.
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The plant is stretching very fast. It's very healthy. It's a nice plant, very vigorously and lot of ramifications.
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Our Rainbow Sherbet has started to flower, the main lining here worked really well. Unlike the other plants I cut at the second internode to create the mainfold. This is a smart choice because autoflowering plants flower more or less at the 5th / 6th internode, if you have to do topping it is better to start as soon as possible to delay flowering as much as possible. Another reason for topping / mainfold at the second internode is that the plant is lower and you can work the mini brunches much better. In fact here we managed to create a T-minlining. In the sense that the mini brunches form a perfect 90 degree T with the main stem which is not easy at all. To do this you have to use the arches with the wire it is much more complicated and the cut at the second internode helps a lot. So topping at the second internode, mainfold and then continue for another three internodes and topping again. You can decide to cut something along the way I left perhaps too much stuff here. However, for better or worse, everything that can see a fair amount of light enough to flower well is left. The plant is a specimen with a medium internodal distance and I managed to work it reasonably well. We are still using soil, feeding and all the recommended additives from Plagron 100% organic. We have moved on to the flowering start card that maintains the same Power Roots additives - Sugar Royal, Pure Zym and adds the flowering stimulant dear in my house for obvious reasons of Biscotti. Of course the basic fertilizer now is Alga Bloom. The Green Sensation when the flowers are already a little swollen, do not start immediately. The Power Buds must immediately stimulate the initiation and development of the buds. ---- Decide on the right soil and calculate your fertilizer schedule based on the soil on the official website. -- www.plagron.com Try a seed of this variety that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11230-zamnesia-seeds-rainbow-sherbet-automatic.html Zamnesia Description //A cross between Pink Guava, Sunset Sherbet and a hint of ruderalis, Rainbow Sherbet Auto offers a wide range of flavors, effects and more. This 70% indica-dominant strain reaches considerable THC levels (24%) and is suitable for both experienced growers and those taking their first steps in the world of cannabis cultivation. All the best that mother nature has to offer is on ---- www.zamnesia.com
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Hi everyone :-) This week a lot of nice things happened in the flower tent :-) Everyone looks super nice, and is growing stronger and more beautiful week by week 😍👌. The blue cheese smells like a dream ;-) As usual from this variety 👍. The kosher tangie is also very, very tasty 👏🏻. Both got Pk 13/14 this week for the last time :-) Everyone else is developing very well 👍, That will be the last diary with several strains together :-) In future everyone will come individually 👌. I wish you a lot of fun with the videos, have a nice weekend, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😎👌
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Well she is coming to the end. I looked at her tricomes with a 60x handheld microscope and she has about 90% milky and 10% clear, with the occasional amber one. I thought about pulling her today but the smaller flowers look like they need more time. Also, I read someplace that if you think you are ready to harvest, wait a week as there is a 2 week window and waiting one week will put you in it. I have been giving her just tap water ph to 5.8-6.0 with the occasional extra gallon flush as I can not empty my basin right now. The root picture looks a little brown, but that's just the lighting. I reached in and checked the roots, no slime or odd smell. After I maneuver her around (bending her colas away from lamp) my hands smell like a pine air freshener or grass, (not like cannabis)? I have now supercropped 3 of her larger colas which can not be seen from the photos, but they are all the size of my wrist in circumference and about 6 inches long. While some have some toasted leaves, I think the buds will be fine. The extra cfls hanging on the outside have really made a difference in popcorn production! If I get an ounce out of this I am considering it a win, however I'm thinking it might be more, we shall see. Thank you for following my grow. Comments and feedback has been wonderful and extremely helpful.
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@Siriuz
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Starting week 10 Day 77 Ladie is getting some nutes plus water Day 78 Whoa she's growing a lot Day 79 Gonna start scrog soon Day 80 Root its thriving like crazy, uploaded new video, check it out! Day 81 Time to feed the lady again plus added more ffof soil with perlite and clay peebles Day 82 All good, no nutrient burnt @ 1810ppm Day 83 Had to expand the net, added scrog plus some other features, she's a monster it's Giving me a lot of work to do but I'm really happy with this huge lady growing up!! End of week 10 with some videos to show progress!
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9/1 About one more week till chop the trichome pic doesn’t really get a look and see the amber but it’s some coming in
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Week 8 for Moby Dick by fastbuds, Been getting a few spiders webs here & there on this plant... i don't think its spider mites but staying on the look out encase it is. Aphid situation seems to be well handled ATM after i sprayed some organic pesticide on the plant & some much stronger stuff in the surrounding area like i mentioned i planned on doing on last weeks update. Been defoliation very little on this plant just the stuff making shade on the flower growth areas. 😎
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@valiotoro
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Always rock hard buds💥 Sticky glue👀 The smell is divine & refreshing : imagine a walk in a pine Forest in Summer with hint of lemon🤤🍋🌲 Moon safari effect
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First time , i am tried cmh lights. and i am satisfied. beautiful harvest. Thank for watch🤟🏼
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@valiotoro
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Photoperiod buds 🤩 The smell is absolutely divine very fruity,sweet & tropical🍋🍊🍉🍌 Solid like a diamond 💎 Bay harbor butcher’s trim to show the density
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@Eryan
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Day 15 - Watered again today. Plant grew quite a decent amount and the stem has finally begun to thicken. Will need a bigger humidifier for sure, and then one that can automatically keep humidity at a certain % Day 16 - Growth is definitely starting to take off. Stem is finally getting thick enough to where LST seemed to be a good idea to start. Smell is getting stronger, but still can only be sensed when holding the plant to your face. Will probably need to plant into the final container in a week. Going to also add another light (105 W) by the end of the week. Day 18 - Watered, got new humidifier. Just using that for now in the whole room, since it gets too dry in here anyways with the heating. Day 19 - Transplanted to what should be the final container today. Was a good time to transplant too, the roots were beginning to bunch up at the bottom of the previous container. Using Atami Bio-Growmix as the soil now. Accidentally damaged one leaf during the transplant. Stopped with LST for today to let the plant recover a bit from the transplant. Then will resume it tomorrow. Might be trying out SCROG...but first will read more about it. Also thinking of FIMing soon...but also going to read a little more and let the plant recover more from the transplant first. Have another lamp now, the 105W. However, didn't realize that it has a low kelvin value. So getting a couple of new higher kelvin lamps soon. Will just use the 105W in combination with a 125W during flowering. Smell is increasing, but not noticeable outside the tent. Day 20 - FIMmed today. Not sure if it was a great idea, the part taken off seemed to have possible beginnings of flowers inside. Not certain though, so yeah...will see what happens 😅. The third set of fan leaves turns out to be 7 leafed, so she went straight from 3 leafed for the second set to the 7 leafed. Is that a good thing...? Also resumed LST. Day 21 - Seems like the plant might be recovering from the FIMing. Temperatures got way too low last night though, at 60 degrees. Since two 125W lamps (5500K) are being used now, the temperatures are getting a bit warmer, from 78 to 80 degrees. So it's important that the night temperatures don't get that low again. Was thinking of eventually doing three 125W lamps with the 105W for blooming phase, but that will probably be too warm even with an extraction fan (the 105W, being older, produces more heat than the 125W). Not yet sure what will end up being done for the blooming phase lighting. Tomorrow is week four...flowers will probably start appearing soon by the end of the week. Hope it's been able to fully recover from FIMing by then.