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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Canna96
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This week went well, She is growing well, and I am planning to transplant her in about a week and a half to her final home which will be a 5.2 gallon airpot. Very excited to get her into her final home, and let her roots stretch out, but still working on building a solid root mass. Thanks for stopping by, be safe, and Blaze on!
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Mephisto has their shit kicks ass. Starting to look yummy. I want to thank @GardenOfAutos for letting me know I am growing cheese strains. Which I do not normally like my fault. Lack of research.
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@Ninjabuds
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I moved my fastbuds plants under my new ELUFAH UAP-1500… from the start this light seems like it’s way more than 50 watts brighter than my other light. This light is going to be amazing. I’m already loving it. Can’t wait for grow pros to release more products from ELUFAH… Papapayton is doing great it’s at that stage it’s about to explode in a week or so
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Giorno 80 La Sweet Cheese è stata tagliata. Purtroppo già dalla seconda settimana avevo pensato di rimuoverla per lasciare spazio alle Crystal Candy che erano belle grosse ma alla fine dato il suo odore di formaggio/frutta ho deciso di tenerla. Le Crystal Candy anche loro sono a sola acqua da 10gg e entro 4/5gg verranno tagliate.Loro hanno sempre il solito odore di caramelle fragola/melone. A presto con qualche foto dei fiori 😊👍
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Hallo und herzlich Willkommen in Woche 16/ Blütewoche 4 So die dritte Woche und somit eine sehr aufregende und spannende ist vorüber. Der Phosphor und Kalium Bedarf erhöht sich in dieser arg und zu einem (N) Stickstoffüberschuss, haben wir gestern festgestellt, dass es anfängliche Mangelerscheinung im P+ K Bereich gibt. Bisher betrifft dies die Sonnen- Segel die eher auf mittlerer Höhe sind. Nach dieser Feststellung haben wir uns den Flowa Bloom JU JU Royal Dünger von der Zusammensetzung genauer angeschaut. Fazit: Das Verhältnis an (N) in dem Blütedünger ist bei 5 und somit bekommen wir selbst nur mit dem Blütedünger den Stickstoff nicht reguliert. Ergo alte Schule, da wir keinen reinen PK 13-14 im Hause führen bleibt uns im Moment nur die alternative auf den Bloom Dünger von Biobizz zu gehen, da das Verhältnis bei dem nur bei 2 liegt. Damit der Stickstoff auch durch P+K verarbeitet werden kann, benötigen wir Zucker, morgen soll dahingehend Top Max eintreffen. Wir hoffen, dass das Rausarbeiten des Stickstoffs durch oben genanntes gut verläuft, vielleicht etwas langsamer, weil wir immer noch einen kleinen Anteil an Stickstoff darin haben. Anderes Blatt Gut sieht in Ordnung aus, bis hierhin. Wetter: Da sich durch die Anfangs mistige Erde sich alles um gute 2 Wochen nach hinten verschoben hat, befinden wir uns jetzt in einer Periode mit sehr hohen und Trockenen Temperaturen. Demnach und das war auch schon lange ein Wunsch, haben wir jetzt ein Klimagerät installiert. Unser Streben darin werden keine absoluten Idealtemp. sein sondern so, dass es den Pflanzen nicht zu unangenehm wird. Das bedeutet das die Höchsttemperatur im Innenbereiches des Zeltes ca. bei 29- 30 Grad Celsius liegen wird. Ja ansonsten sieht es ganz okay aus :-) Die höchstwachsende Cola haben wir ein wenig zur Seite runter gebunden und passt jetzt schön zur Höhenebene der anderen Lebensgefährtinnen. Bisher sind auch keine Anzeichen von HEMA und auch die Trauermücken wurden von den Nematoden Sichtlich unterdrückt. Zu den Thripsen: Trotz Blausticker müssen einige noch vorhanden sein. Ansonsten war es das erst einmal und wünschen somit allen Growmies einen schönen chilligen Sonntag und eine Erfolgreiche neue Woche! Vielen Dank im Voraus, an all diejenigen die den unseren Report Besuchen, kommentieren und oder auch liken! VG!
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6/13/25 everything is coming along smoothly for the Divine Rapier autos. I had to pick a seed shell off of the more scraggly looking one but they’re green and happy In their environment except for the weird one that had the cotyledon leaves come out the seed before the tap root. Her tap root started to grow up out of the soil and that made me think that maybe I was wrong so I tried to bury her slightly so that maybe she’d figure it out for herself. She doesn’t seem to be so I may need to pop the 3rd seed Stay tuned for what comes next. Also check out my X account and YouTube for any extras that I can’t post here. I have a full seed planting video on YouTube of these strains, that is too Long to post on here.
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Did nothing but feed and spray on and under the leafs. Before feeding I brew the solution for 24h. Taken from a larger vat that's aerated all the time. The water itself was filtered by reversed osmose a couple days before. The EC-value is 0.1 Ramping up Par-levels to 480-500 at the end of this week. At the end of the week I sowed the cover crop and mulshed it with Miscanthus
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@Roberts
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Auto Maxi Gom is doing okay. She is bulking, and looks strange to me. I have not grow this strain before. She should fill in as the time passes. Hopefully it's just my patience and eyes playing tricks on me. She is making progress, regardless and is weeks from done. This has been a long flowering process for a autoflower. 🤞🏻 it turns out okay. Nothing more to report at this moment. Thank you Medic Grow, Xpert Nutrients, and Seeds Mafia. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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La planta crece bien al lado de una "dance Hall" que acabo de transferir desde tierra. La maceta funciona muy bien, la planta crece de manera óptima, las raíces están bien blancas. Hago este test con una planta. Hago podas para aprovechar todo el espacio disponible. Es una planta que crece muy rápido.
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Lost one of skittles dew to high humidity she started to show nanners and had to be removed the second one is doing great
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That’s all she wrote ladies and gents! As seen previously in this grow diary, this was a micro plant. Only yielded a couple buds but they are glorious! Beautiful color, reasonably frosty, pungent sweet citrus and berry aroma. Looking forward to growing out this strain again - properly next time.
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@Roberts
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Sorry I missed a lot of updates. I was recovering from hand surgery then gd was not working right. She has a sweet earthy brown sugar smell. She did well for the limitrd care I could provide while I recovered. Was a good grow and I am excited to get to try her soon. Thank you Divine Seeds, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
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@nonick123
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Día 115 (23/09) Riego con 250 / 500 ml H2O Día 116 (24/09) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O - Hace mucho calor! (31 ºC) LemonPaya empieza a formar nuevos pistilos a velocidad decente! Día 117 (25/09) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O - Hace mucho calor! (31 ºC) OnionOG #1 empieza a oler a tierra húmeda y champiñón 😍 Purple Punsh S1 está empezando a llenar los bordes de las hojas de abanico de una espesa capa de tricomas. Increíble! 💥 Día 118 (26/09) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O - Sigue haciendo muchísimo calor! Hoy hemos tenido un día con 37 ºC de máxima! Increíble la cantidad de tricomas que están formando Purple Punsh S1 & KS1! Las hojas está completamente perladas! 😍💥 Día 119 (27/09) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O Que calor! Seguimos con 32 ºC de máxima! Día 120 (28/09) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O OnionOG #1 muestra unos cogollos brutalmente densos y gruesos! I'm in love! Día 121 (29/09) Riego con 1 litro H2O pH 6,5 + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,3 g/L 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae
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Having cal mag issues going to hit the grow store tomorrow am and see can I get some organic cal mag and see if that helps other than that no real issues 2/24 I’m going sit my dumb ass down and chill I did a defoliation and man I over did it I think it’s pretty aggressive and i don’t know what I was thinking I was just clipping away 🤦🏾‍♂️…… anyway got some calmag for the color issues only going 1/2 tsp see how that goes hopefully when the new growth and more stretch happens it’ll look a lot better I’m also bottom feeding the calmag hope that works too
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Humidity this week has still been high, but luckily the dehumidifier was set up last night so hopefully within the next couple days it will be regulated. I LST’d more this week to just try and contain the buds from getting burnt. Clearly I underestimated the size of the tent and should have went bigger. Also defoliated a few of the base leaves and buds as per member comment. They seemed to have taken the stress just fine.