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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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Day 66 : Her buds are full of crystals and are so dense. The smell is really strong stinky skunk like GZ , but GZ smell is more acidic. Her crystals are milky and soon will start to amber. Breeder refers that will be pretty mature in 70 days. Not in my case :D we will see in 4 days, in next watering. For now no ambers. I prefer to cut when we have 15%-20% amber and 80%-85% milky, because after the smoke is very heavy for my taste. Edit Day 70 : She watered with juices and i continue until i see first signs of amber trichomes. Still no ambers. She has gained so much weight , side branches cant lift their self. I think she will be the heavier. You can understand her weight if u lift it.
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Day 141 10/06/25 Tuesday Harvested the Orange Apricot Glue XL today! This run of autos I haven't done any dark period before harvest except, I managed to catch them just as lights were coming on. She has performed amazingly in consideration that she was only in a 2.5L pot. In hindsight, I now know I am able to do a SOG with small auto pots. Making for an exciting next run. Upon harvesting the OAG XL, The pungent smell of citrus, diesel and fruity twists is intoxicating. The buds are dense and compact, with formed calyx's boasting with trichomes. Wet weight on this was 427g of buds. (All wet trim gets dried in hangers and used for making butter later) To my suprise a super easer one to trim as she was mainly buds and fan leaves. She is now hanging drying in a 80x80 tent , with a small fan on low @ netted window entrance, facing down to circulate air from bottom to top. An exhausting fan with carbon filter also runs 2x a day for 1 hour. This lasted for 8days before humidity dropped to 49%. I have now put into containers to allow inner moisture to pull through now. After 3-4 more days she will have final trim and placed into Terp Loc Grove Bags to cure. Once curing I shall do a smoke report, dry bud weight, and update journal. Thank you to everyone who followed along for this one, the comments and support! GROWERS LOVE TO APOLLO @ SWEET SEEDS, for allowing us to play with these fun genetics 💚🤜🤛
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@D33jW
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🌸 Runtz - Week 3 of Flowering 🌸 Everything is going according to plan! 🌿 I’m keeping stable conditions – 25°C temperature, 60% RH, so a VPD is around 1.3. The plant looks healthy and strong, producing a lot of white pistils, which is a great sign of proper development. As for trichome production, it could be a bit heavier, but I’m patiently waiting – Runtz still has time to show its full potential. Watering is done every two days, with around 1L of water mixed with nutrients. This week, I started adding Green Sensation in low doses to fully meet the plant’s phosphorus and potassium needs, which are essential for the flowering stage. Grow Conditions (FLO Week 3): 🌞 Light schedule: 12/12 🌱 PPFD: 750 µmol/m²/s 💧 VPD: ~1.3 kPa Now, it's just a matter of time before it starts frosting up nicely! Can’t wait to see how it stacks up in the coming weeks! 🔥
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This girl has started to cath up a little bit she just is a little slower. She has some funky traits. 👃: smells of straight gas ⛽️ or kerosine. And is sticky to the touch of her stem no rub so mabye just s slower 1 or not big bud developer.
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I start immediately apologizing for not respecting the week in updating the diary, but with work and looking after the plants I had no time. Now it is the end and I have collected everything. The experiments with ice water went really well and the pollen yield has increased again. The plant is spectacular and I am very proud of my work and what I have achieved. The buds are very compact and smell really exaggerated. This BlackBerry I cleaned it all out of the excess leaves apart from the little sugary ones and left it in whole branches and hung it on a clothesline that I am leaving in a dark room with the values checked at least for the next week so that I can start a new cycle. But the smell is just too much!!!! Great FastBud and sure I'll be making more varieties soon. The monkey has now burrowed on my shoulder and the desire to try this delight is more and more.
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Hola a todo el mundo!!! Espero que anden bien!.. Las plantas ya han recibido su lavado de raíz, y están esperando el dia de corte , es todo lo que voy a decir😅.
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Wassuuuup my dudes 21 days into flowering and the results from the lst and defoliation are showing up. Multiple healthy tops and even the small nodes under the canopy are growing bigger, if all goes well I won’t have many popcorn nugs but I’ll have just big buds (let’s hope) I guess this also means they won’t stretch much more but I think some more height would be good for yield, anyway, can’t complain for the 1st grow and this is a process, there are no perfect grows! This week was also a week to add some more nutrients (the plagron) and it’s working very well for now! Let’s wait for the next few weeks, can’t wait to see the fatty buds 😂 Tell me what you think!
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Once again, we are cruising through week three there’s nothing to do but water one dry and keep their favor bop music playing
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@Reyden
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Siamo arrivati intorno alla 4º settimana di fioritura e le mie signorine sono super attraenti! Green Sensation iniziato da poco e presto vedremo dei fiori super appiccicosi e pieni di resina profumatissima! Questa volta dopo 4 tentativi sono finalmente riuscito a caricare video da questo iPhone che ogni volta mi saltava per qualche motivo, poi ho capito che il 4k era un formato non adatto a Growdiaries e in HD le cose si sono risolte, con un po’ di pazienza si fa tutto, diceva qualcuno….bene! Ci vediamo presto per altri aggiornamenti su queste fantastiche Runtz
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My first grow 'attempt'. I am growing in an insulated shipping container. Using two Fluence SpydrX LED 660W lights. Not currently supplementing Co2. Feeding by hand for now but I will set up an automated dripper. Drain to waste. Growing in Pro-Mix HP w/ Mycorrhizae which contains (65%-75%) Peat-Moss, Perlite, Mycorrhizae, pH adjusters, and a wetting agent. All 5 seeds sprouted!! 3 Peat Pellet, 2 Paper Towel Light intensity set to lowest setting. (8%) Feeding every couple days with 160ppm, 6.0 pH. Overall, pretty good week. Lights on! Using 18/6 light schedule. The peat pellets were placed into peat pots and under a dome. The lights should have been turned on a lot sooner, the seedlings stretched quite tall. Lesson learned there. They continued to grow quite tall. One fell over, it was replanted slightly deeper to support it. Fingers crossed it survives. Light intensity set to lowest setting (8%). A lot to learn.
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Reduced base nutes and overall PPMs to about 800. Running 2.5 tsp of MKP (Mono Potassium Phosphate) per 50 gallon res.
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Día 40 me ha dado carencias de calcio magnesio y posforo y potasio, me he dado cuenta un poco tarde... Las hojas estaban caídas y se me estaban poniendo amarillas con manchas marrones...les puse calmag y empezaron a buscar la luz ... También me di cuenta, que las Lili que no veía se me ponían las hojas moradas, creía que era exceso de nitrógeno, pero no era posforo y potasio... Así, que lo que no quería hacer, lo he hecho he metido a tope de nutrientes y más... Espero no liarla más...
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Day 172 21/10/24 Monday I had 1.5 Litres of feed left, and she was top dry this morning so she finished that off today. Picture update 😎💚 I'll get one later with lights off 🙌 Day 174 23/10/24 Wednesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Finally update pictures and videos 📸 💚 She is developing awsome colours, and buds are now starting to stack weight 💪🙌 Day 177 26/10/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today, noticed a few tips burning. She is stacking !! This week she has developed a really floral aroma is sweet and tantalising like a perfume almost. She is glistening with trichomes, and buds are taking the dark 🌑 colour with purple/pink calyx tips. Super duper sticky!!
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I didn't weigh them wet...never do...but the dry weight was 430g for both plants! Plant A: 229g Plant B: 201g Very heavy, very resinous, very tasty...awesome ganja! I pressed a few ounces of it for the rosin, and it yields very very well. Final thoughts: My favorite strain from this grow. Not quite as tasty as the Zenzations, but the yield was spectacular and it's muy potente! Yield: 10/10 Potency: 9/10 Flavor: 8/10 Aroma: 9/10 Density: 10/10 Resin production: 10/10 Muchas gracias, Sweet Seeds!
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ==> Comments From Other "Living Soil/Super Soil" Growers Are Always Welcome <== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ INTRODUCTION I am very excited about this grow as it is the first time with a new setup. I have added a new light and am going to try a super soil grow for the first time. I have a Mephisto Genetics Double Grape between paper towels and waiting to sprout. The space is about 18 inches by 24 inches. The ceiling slopes down, so I don't have much room at the rear of the space. For medium I am using Fox Farms Happy Frog augmented with perlite. The bottom third contains 0.5 pounds autoflower blend of a "super soil" additive from Nature's Living Soil. (https://amzn.to/2PUHc6k) I am using three-gallon cloth pots. The light is a Horticulture Lighting Group 135W QB V2 R-Spec LED kit. NUTRIENTS Tap water pH’d to 6.5. pH lowered using 1.5 TBS unsulfured blackstrap molasses and apple cider vinegar. One-half TBS of vinegar lowered pH about 0.5 points. The medium was very dry. Slowly watered to allow the moisture to be equal throughout the soil ISSUES My while I have yet to put the seed in the dirt, I am concerned about temperatures. They are currently running at about 86F. I would like to get it down to about 80F. DAILY LOG DAY -2: STARTED SEED * Started seed in my traditional manner. Between paper towels soaked in 5% bleach solution, 0.25 tsp/0.5 Cup water. Temp 82F. DAY -1: ACTION *The smallest of tip has appeared. Will put in soil in a few hours. Day 0: SEED PLANTED. * Refrigerator filtered water. pH 6.5. 1 cup (250ml) added very carefully. * Covered with humidity dome. * Light from Soil: 32.5” * Temperature: 82F DAY 1: SPROUT The sprouted seed has shown itself above the soil. A nice Christmas morning surprise. Now I can start counting the days. * Watered with about 200ml of water at pH 6.5. Used apple cider vinegar to lower the tap water pH. * I was pleased to find that my tap water does not contain chloramine. I was reading bad things about chloramine and "living soil." It can kill beneficial microorganisms. All I did was ask my water company and they replied saying "we found no mention of chloramine use in the system:" Just what I wanted to hear. * After looking at other diaries using 250W LEDs, I moved my light down to 25 inches. DAY 2: NO WATER FOR YOU * No watering today. There is plenty of water in the soil and I want the roots to stretch and work. * Working on increasing the humidity and getting more control over the temperature. DAY 3: WATER PLANT, NOT POT. ADDED MYCORRHIZAE. * Following the GrowWeedEasy watering suggestions for Kind Soil * 500ml water at 6.5 pH, around the plant and not across the full 3-gallon bag. * The fan gently moves the seedling to keep it strong. * Had minor unexpected run-off. I hope to avoid that in the future. * Added 1/8 tsp Great White Mycorrhizae dissolved in 100 ml of 50 ml water/50 ml molasses mix. Did not pH as it is such a small amount of solution compares to the watering earlier today. DAY 4: NO WATER, NO PICTURE * Nothing really new. So no reason for a picture. * The soil is dry on top, but the bottom of the pot is still damp. So I will watch it, but I don't expect to water today. * Adding a small intake fan has dropped the temps to about 82F, I think they can live with that. * A humidifier arrives tomorrow and I think that will be my last step to improve the environment. DAY 5: 500ml WATER, LOOKING GOOD * The plant is looking good. The second set of true leaves has a bend, but nothing to worry about. DAY 6: 500ml WATER. NEW HUMIDIFIER * It wasn't really necessary to water today, but I did simply to stay on the schedule I am using. * Given the lightness of the soil and the moving air, I don't anticipate any problems. * Added a humidifier yesterday evening. It's bringing the humidity up, but I need to keep the space closed and I'm a bit concerned about having to provide it with distilled water frequently. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ WEEK ONE IN REVIEW ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ * Watered with 750 ml pH's tap water. Watered slowly to avoid any runoff. * The plant is looking very healthy. It looks as if the roots are really starting to work as the plant is darker green. * Balancing temperature and humidity is tricky, but I think I will be able to get it stabilized with a bit more work. * Target Relative Humidity: Seedlings - 65-70; Vegging - 40-70; Flowering - 40-50 ==> Beginning Next Week I Will Only Post Twice A Week, Mid-week And End Of The Week. <==
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DWC stripped to the wood no suckers only AAAA quality buds I’m looking for especially if she’s a leafier bud. It’ll be a challenge keeping her in Veg any longer but still looking at minimum two week before she sees the flower tent. Week 7 Flower, frosty, smells great, she really puts on the weight late flower so it’ll be interesting to see where she stops.
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@Organic_G
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Scheinen gut auf Kurs zu sein, VEG Phase lief top auch wenn ich bei zwei Pflanzen reingeschissen habe aber man lernt… Bin gespannt wann die fertig gewesen da die bisher ziemlich zügig unterwegs waren.