The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D15/V11 - 30/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D16/V12 - 01/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D17/V13 - 02/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.6 pH: 5.8 🌡️ T: 20 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D18/V14 - 03/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.6 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D19/V15 - 04/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D20/V16 - 05/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D21/V17 - 06/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 Calmag, Grow A-B 💧5L 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video
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@valiotoro
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FBA2507 Light mix finito✔️BANG To the guy behind this strain : THANK YOU it's a one-way to the past when I was harvesting peaches in my grandpa's garden👨🏻‍🌾 Once again the quality of the buds 😳!!! In coco she s huge🚀 Same feeding + Green Sensation RoOoOaAaaADDD I've ever been down👻 Take care 💚
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Aug 12: Ideally would have left this go for another week or two but pest pressure (aphids) meant it couldn't wait. Chopped. Nice squat plant structure with a decent coating of the best smelling resin I've ever had on an auto - as I mentioned before, this one smells sweet and floral, like a mix or roses and bubblegum. Amazing. Very pleased with the outcome and would recommend to others who are looking for a 1:1 THC:CBD variety.
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Only got Gorilla Cookies left. Chopped down Gorilla Zkittlez last week. Gorilla Cookies is filling out. Buds getting denser. Smell is great, like an Earthy, Berry, gasy Lemonade lol Gorilla Zkittlez looks like it’s coated in Trichromes. Smells berry. Thanks for checking out my diaries. Any questions don’t hesitate to ask. 💪🏽🌱😎
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Kinary
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day 15 - nothing day 16 - nothing day 17 - nothing day 18 - nothing day 19 - topping at 5 knot and defoliation the first 4 leaves day 20 - nothing day 21 - nothing
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@Mopish
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24 Jan - 30 Jan Started Flushing on Sunday night (23 Jan) ---- 25 Jan A lot of leaves are starting to die, from all of the plants, maybe due to nutrients maybe due to climate, or maybe is just the strain on the end of its life. Either way, I'm planning to harvest next week.
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Im Großen und Ganzen bin ich sehr zufrieden mit dem Grow. Ist die erste erfolgreiche ohne Schimmel Outdoor Ernte. Für mal so nebenbei echt gut geworden! Ich freue mich schon auf das nächste Jahr!
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Day 27- day 1 flower Flip to 12-12 Day 28-day 2 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 1.5 Coco B- 1.5 Roots -0.2 Day 29-Day 3 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 30- Day 4 Watered Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 31–day 5 Watered Day 32– day 6 Watered Day33- day 7 Watered Day 34-8 Watered last night so nothing today Day35–9 Watered Day 36-10 Watered Day 37-11 No feed, Day 38–12 Fed 1.5L Day 39-13 Watered Day40-14 Fed pk Day 41-15 Fed 1.7 coco a 1.7 coco b 2 ml boost 1 ml Pk Day 42-16- started adding pk Fed Day 43-17 Fed Day 44-18 Fed 600 ml just before lights out 1L lights on Day 45-19 Fed 1.6 L Day 46-20 Fed 1.5L Day 47-21 Fed 1.5L Day48-22 signs of potassium deficiency so keeping the food levels up for few more days , started with light feeding but now doing heavy feed chart . -Starting to give off a berry and gas smell . Day48-23 Fed 2L She’s thirsty today . Usually start to see runoff after 1.2 Lbur nothing Ml/L Watered 2.5 coco a 2.5 cocoa 2 sumo boost 2ml by accident instead of 1 Day 49-24 Fed 1.5L Day 50-25 Skipped feed to try lower humidity Day 51 Fed 2 L but no run off . Think she’s thirsty from no water yesterday . Will do another 500 ml to see run off if not I’ll leave it at that .
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8-10 days in fridge and I’ll post last update with cured buds
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During veg I gave it urine for nitrogen one month after sprouting. Than I gave it a top feeding of compost, and epsom salt. During bloom I gave it a top feeding of epsom salt and a liquid feeding of raw coconut water 2 weeks into bloom and again 4 1/2 weeks into bloom and now I am only giving it water ph at 6.2. Also if u want to keep it totally organic use apple cider vinegar as ph down and baking soda as ph up.
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@Zurbena
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It's been a few days since I solved the temperature problem and the result is really impressive. This strain easily copes with stress, I am surprised by its tolerance💪
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12/03/19 So there hasn't been a lot going on in terms of healthy growth. It seems I've been giving nutrients too often and that the pH of my water is too high (7.8) resulting in a Calcium defficiency and stunted/abnormal growth. Following some great advice from Bulbi to one of my questions. I've bought some Cal-mag and pH down to try and mitigate this issue, I've done the following :- : 1ml Cal-Mag to 1l of Water per plant : 2ml Cal-Mag to 1l of spray bottle to be used infrequently : I haven't pH reduced on this watering as I noticed the Cal-Mag slightly reduces the pH, so to not shock the plants I'll lower the pH marginally on the next 2 feeds untill it's at 6.5 : Raised the light to 45cm : Changed the lighting schedule to 18/6 Let's hope these few changes will bring these lil babys back to life! I'll post some mid-week pictures to show any difference.
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I am sad too say out of all my seeds this blackberry kush has has the slowest development and just looks poorly slow growth and new leave deformities , The newest leaves are curling downwards and have a very round leave appearance yet everything else in the same space is loving life , I intended too top this plant but will see how she picks up in the next week , This week I had too change my lighting too 600 true watts of kingbo dual optical LED range due too the temps getting closer too 30c than I would like , and by doing so I have now got a constant temp of 27c lights on and 18c lights out
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fat dense buds numerous and fuzzed out with trichomes. leaf-calyx ratio on point. Stalks tended to lean as flowering progressed so plan for some manner of support if you want. Let her flower as long as she can and she’ll reward you.
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@Catire
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Ya las pase a flora tienen un crecimiento explosivo, vamos bien!!!