The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Waveform
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Once again, this week starts where the former one ended. With the exception of all the cables you can see in the first picture. I dared to install a minimalized version of the Raspi control only controlling the self-built humidifier and one blower/fan combination. I was very pleased to see how easily the simple diffusor can hold optimum VPD as long as temperatures are high and humidity tends to fall below optimum VPD. A single 10 seconds evaporation can hold the level for about 2–3 minutes. I am not pleased to see the Monsanto blowers rather underperform. It’s impossible to reduce humidity or temperature with both running on full speed, while a lifting of the tent door will bring immediate changes. With the Raspi/Arduino success so far*, I am thinking about using old Power Mac fans which are WCM controllable and use 12 V. At least one to increase air intake, and maybe even the blowers. * It wasn’t any problem at all to have the Arduino collect CO2 and soil moisture data, so after some more cable manufacturing (aka helpless soldering), I could extend the Raspi control. I’m still uncertain about the camera module (@trelorny impressed me with his time lapse videos). I don’t want to put the hardware into the tent with its not so electronics friendly climate, already risking some rare outages of the temp/hum sensor. But the camera module cannot be placed far away. So maybe I’ll use the 3A model I own as a spare part as a camera driver. Any maybe, if it works, invest in a better camera module. Mine is generation 1. Oh, and the ladies! Gave them slightly fertilised water yesterday, and even it or the better VPD yesterday or a combination of both make me believe bud growth is a bit more visible today. The smell in the morning when I open the tent to release accumulated humidity is outstanding. They were already thirsty on day 57 again, so pure RO + a bit of tap water until it spilled out of their pot’s bottoms. Many fan leaves turning autumnally now, and the smallest Sherbet suffered a bit from over-fertilisation as I wrote. But it this stage I don’t go for leaf beauty anymore. Just another learning: Don’t use differently sized pots anymore. Hard to feed them individually this way. VPD was mostly in best range yesterday, and I have the feeling it really supports their bud growth. I added an "Evening time" option to my Raspi control that allows the humidity to sink a selected time before lights shut down. That made it possible to have humidity in best range for most of the night time too. They were even dry again on day 58 morning. Another time just water. The blowers cannot cope with the flowers’ smell anymore, and so sometimes my flat cannot hide who shares it with me. Day 60 presents me with a problem: I’ll leave on Friday for a few days. Considering the microscope pictures are not from the tops buds: Would you say it’s safe to give them another week? Problem solved on day 61. Only clean water from now on, and next week will be their last. You won’t see any new pictures for some days now. Me too … Something I wanted to share with you before I leave: I just finished to update my grow box control with a new PWM fan hat that keeps the Raspi cool, while at the same an infrared sensor can now measure real leaf and additional ambient temperature. Setup is much cleaner and more robust now, but I wish my flux would not make the solder stick to the tip of the machine instead of making it flow and stick at the tiny tiny spots I have to hit …
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Good day blades I have run into what I believe is a calcium defiency. I have treated with 10ml of sensi cal-mag and 6ml of micro on-top regular feeding. Hopefully that is enough. Total water capacity is 40L. Using R.O water. Ppm 1350 and dropping slightly. Please share your opinions. Overall I'm very happy with the growth. The pics are taken at day 41/42. Last week I defoliated roughly 25 percent of the fanleaves with the exception of the amnesia auto. They were overlapping perspiring and I was concerned about mold and PM. You cannot tell as of today. This is the first sativa dominant statin I've grown and I'm supprised at how much they're stretching and how little flower development is evident thus far. That being said it's only day 8, I will try to be more paitent. Keep it real, Growdaddy420.
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Buongiorno amici! I draghi di coccinella stanno mutando🐞🐞 e la piccola BRUCE LEMON DIESEL AUTO di SUPER SATIVA SEED CLUB sta buttando fuori dei bei fiorellini! Ha un bel tronco pricipale robusto ed un profumo già intenso🚗
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@Hawkbo
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Still in the HPS tent but now they are under the LED again and doing pretty well as the roots are filling the pots out they are eating faster. Did a couple foliar feeds with the Growzyme at less than 1 ML/Gal which they seem to like. Hoping to get a little more vertical growth before they kick into flower. Also been doing some bottom feeding which I have been experimenting with a little bit. It seems to increase rate of growth and the plants seem a little happier when I do a few feeds like that in a row. REMEMBER , IF YOUR SHOPPING FOR GEAR YOU CAN USE THE CODE “BANGDANG” FOR 10% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE FROM ANY OF THE FOLLOWING COMPANIES. @greenbuzzliquids @rainscience_growbags @gorilla_grow_tent @growlightscience.led *****Gorilla grow tent discounts extend to all companies affiliated with grow strong industries which include..***** @super.closet Lotus Nutrients Kind LED grow lights
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@deFharo
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Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este es un diario donde semanalmente explico algunas de mis técnicas de cultivo y preparados orgánicos, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. Esta semana: HIDROLIZADO POTÁSICO DE LEONARDITA CON FÓSFORO (Humato PK). Este producto lo vengo usando en mis cultivos desde el comienzo, hasta el final de la floración y es una de mis fórmulas indispensables para el engorde de los cogollos. La leonardita es un mineraloide derivado del lignito y compuesto en su mayor parte por materia orgánica que se encuentra en el proceso de convertirse en carbón, no es soluble en agua. La leonardita es la mayor fuente existente de Ácidos Húmicos e Himatomelánicos, mejora la estructura del suelo haciéndolo más esponjoso, estimula el suministro de oxígeno a los microorganismos, incrementa el crecimiento, la división celular y la retención de agua y nutrientes, al tiempo, la fórmula aporta también fósforo y potasio solubilizados, con lo que consigo un fertilizante altamente soluble PK, con ácido húmico y materia orgánica líquida. Para hacer soluble la leonardita uso un tipo de hidrólisis alcalina con Hidroxido de Potasio, en esta ocasión he añadido Roca Fosfórica (P) como fuente de fósforo inorgánico y lo he enriquecido un poco con Azomite (Si, Mg, K, Fe... + trazas de 70 minerales). Como fuente de fósforo también he utilizado fosfitos orgánicos extraídos de la calcinación de huesos con cascarilla de arroz o cenizas de madera, pero en realidad la fórmula original sólo incluye la leonardita y el hidróxido de potasio (Humato K). El proceso es simple: - MATERIAL PARA 1 LITRO DE SOLUCIÓN: Agua pura 1000ml. (Yo en este preparado he usado agua de manantial alcalino (PH: 9.2 EC: 0.85), esta agua está muy mineralizada (Ca. Si, Fe, Mg, Mn...) quiere decir que tiene hidrolizados esos minerales los cuales se añaden naturalmente al producto.) Leonardita: 100g (10%) Hidróxido de potasio: 30g (3%). - MINERALES EXTRA 1%: Roca fosfórica: 7g, Azomite: 3g PROCEDIMIENTO: 1) Moler la leonardita y mezclar con la roca fosfórica y el azomite. 2) Añadir el Hidróxido de potasio disuelto en 500ml de agua. 3) Esperar una hora y agitar de vez en cuando. 4) Añadir el resto del agua (500ml). 5) Mantener en el recipiente sin cierre hermético, para dejar paso al oxígeno, durante al menos tres días. 6) Remover o agitar al menos 2 veces al día, durante estos 3 primeros días. (Cuanto más o mejor se agite el resultado de la hidrolisis será mejor.) 7) A partir de los 3 días ya se puede usar... pero yo prefiero esperar una semana al menos. 8) El producto se puede almacenar a la sombra durante años, el paso del tiempo hace que la hidrólisis de los componentes sea mejor. COSTO APROX. DEL PREPARADO: 3€. MEZCLAS PARA RIEGO EN MACETAS: HASTA EL 2%., EN EXTERIOR HASTA EL 3%. ========================== USOS: - Deshidratado, lo uso como aporte a las mezclas de sustratos o como enmienda seca. - Al ser un producto alcalino, en las mezclas para riego, lo uso siempre en conjunto con alguno de mis Bio fermentados con Microorganismos de Montaña Activados (MMA) que tienen un PH muy bajo, de esta manera regulo el PH final de la mezcla, además, pongo en contacto directo los microorganismos y la materia orgánica líquida del Humato, al que también añado melaza para dar energía a la microbiología, en definitiva es una simbiosis perfecta para el suelo: Materia orgánica solubilizada, alimento de fácil proceso para la Microbiología y ácidos húmicos, que completan la magia que se produce en el sustrato... los cogollos crecen y engordan sin freno!! Hasta la próxima semana... SALUDOS CULTIVADORES!!🖐️👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 =================================
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Transplanted from a 4 litre pot to a 20 litre pot , she's growing really fast now so I'll switch to flower as soon as ive almost filled the tent .
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@Amboss
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Shape Day … take many Leafs off Think 2 Weekend maybe I made a big mistake with her Her neighbour plant is 30cm bigger and Gas Late veggie period. I give the bigger plant water on the leafs and it fall ob the Main Cola of the smaller plant. Budrod. I Must cut 1 Cola off
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@BombBuds
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Alles läuft gut. Die anderen drei Pflanzen nicht beachten die waren für was anderes.
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This beautiful lady is getting huge and those nuggets are so dense they are so Frosty she is going to provide some wonderful rosin yeah yeah she's almost ready maybe two more weeks
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@NONSENSE
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Hello everybody! :) The 4th week of growth. I continue to train the growth, try bending it every day. I water the plant every day: 1 day fertilization / 1 day water. Fertilizers from the RQS COMBO package works perfectly. I add additional root stimulator from GHE and Diamond nectar. I will give one more week to VEG growth, then I will down to12 hours of light to provoke flowering. Also next week a grid will be installed to adequately control the tent area. In the photo you can see the result of FIM cropping. now the baby will have 4 heads instead of 1. I removed all the large leaves for better air circulation and for better light penetration. Please see also this week's short video. Merry Christmas!!!
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@Mastr
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Week 11 come along and she finished nicely I already flush her now i just feed her with water and bloombastic and take off all fan leaves to bud recive more energy I will chop her down at day 75 so not long left Today day 72 and guys she is ready but I don't wanna rush so let her 3 more days to get best results
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She's growing nice. The temperatures and sun are not good but it grows good under this cricumstances
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Iniziata la seconda settimana di fioritura, le ragazze hanno fatto un bellissimo stretch in altezza, ed hanno iniziato a riempire tutto l'ambiente di coltivo, quindi munito di forbici ben disinfettate ho eseguito una piccola defogliazione delle parti basse delle piante e tolto qualche foglia grande che impediva il passaggio della luce e dell'aria. Vedrò nei prossimi giorni come reagiranno
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@Dunk_Junk
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25cm vertical growth this week!!! She's nicely into flowering now!
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1st week of flowering over. Trim at the end of this week to redirect energy again and then we'll
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Week 4 for Black Lebanon by supersativaseedclub, Shes still pushing in size... Ive topped her twice since last week while letting the lower branches catch up with the top. Seems to be reacting very nicely 😎 Look at the size of her fan leaves already nearly the size of my hand. Probably the strain catching my eye the most during veg, makes me excited to open the tent everyday😂 To see her progress.
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@MistaOC
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17.01. F15 The plants have now reached a height of around 80 cm, and the stretch is almost finished, slowly coming to an end. Bud production has clearly started, and overall the plants are looking very healthy, strong, and well structured. Over the past days, intensive defoliation and lollipopping has been carried out, but deliberately not all at once. Instead, a small portion is done each day to keep stress levels as low as possible. Due to the heavy branching, a large number of small side shoots had formed, many of which were removed to improve airflow and create a more open plant structure. Overall, the grow continues to run very smoothly and according to plan, once again strongly supported by the Biotabs nutrient system. One major advantage is that no CalMag, no dolomite and no additional corrections are required. Feeding is done strictly according to the Biotabs schedule, otherwise following an “only water” approach – with outstanding results so far. Powdery mildew is still present, but only at a very minimal level. Occasionally, 2–5 affected leaves appear and are removed immediately. In addition, the entire room and the plants are treated twice a week with a water–Purolyt solution. Compared to the previous run, there is a very noticeable improvement, and the effect is clearly visible. At this point, the grow is running fully on track, and the photos and videos speak for themselves.
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@PoshGrow
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Welcome to Auto Alaskan Purple Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #4 2020 August 13th - 20th. General Info: When planted: 2020 July 23th. Week: 4 Days: 21 - 28 Last Update Day: 2020 August 18th. Plants: 5 Alaskan Purple Auto. Equipment: Tent: MarsHydro 1mx1mx2m or 39"x39"x72". Light: HLG 260w V2 Rspec QB Kit. Exhaust: 4" 322 CFM fan + Viper Carbon Filter. Intake: 4" 100 CFM Inline Fan. Oscillating Fan: Lower: 4" Ram Fan. Upper: 16" Oscillating Ram Fan. Humidifier: Taotronics TT-AH001. Dehumidifier: Pavlit MD750. Soil: NPK soil 40% Compost, 50% Peat Moss, 10% Agroperlite. Pot: 7 gallon Fabric Pot x 5pcs. Nutriens: Fox Farm Trio. PH Correcton: Chemoform pH-Minus Granulat. PH Pen: Cheap Chinese one, I callibrate it every time I use it. Water pump: Digital microscope: Comment: