This is my second time growing this strain and i am much more please this time around. Came out with almost 3 times more than last time and the buds are a lot bigger. Have already ordered another seed because i think this may be my favorite strain!

I did her first water change on day 10 upped the nutrient dose and increased the reservior to 12 gallons. Gave her the first dose of armor si and humic acid. I topped her on day 12 to start 4 main branches. Will most likely top again and start training in about a week depending on how she wants to grow. The goal is a maximum of 5 weeks veg if they cooperate. Of the 6 strains she is a little faster than the rest so far. They are under 240w qb and a galaxyhydro pulling about 140w for now. Will be adding more qb when I spread the buckets out.

Start of Flower. PPFD avg. 700 Soaked entire pot. Started my Flower Foliar Spray right before lights out. I will Spray plants once a week for 4 weeks of Flower. Foliar Spray Recipe per 2L as follows: All Advanced Nutrients Products. 4ml Bud Ignitor 4ml Nirvana 4ml Bud Factor X 10ml B-52 Midweek update. Second round of foliar spray. Ladies loved the first round, went with a second. Ill do this twice a week until I'm through week 4 of Flower. Video is right after I sprayed for the 2nd round at 15 mins before lights out. Don't want all the foliar spray burning the ladies now do we.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

This girl is really doing very well, I loved the development and more by the color of the trichomes I would say that it would already be a great time for harvest, but it doesn't seem ready to me.. I will follow the schedule this is the last week with the hand well loaded with nutrients.. and in the next weeks I will slow down the pace and in the other I will do the wash.. I had never grown with mineral before, I had no idea how much salt accumulates, even using the cleanse a few times a week.. it is surreal so the wash in the last week has to be very well done.. It will be an excellent result, I am sure. Thank you for taking a little of your time to pass on my humble diary. 🙏✌️👊🌿🌿🌿

This week went by well, I will start checking the trichomes on the Runtz at the end of this week. It should be ready for harvest in the next 2 to 3 weeks The G13 is still smelling like magic, looking majestic. The GDP buds are starting to put on weight

It’s been a good week for this girl. I caught the Vid, and have been doing the very minimum to can get away with to keep her going. No training, but I did do a little bit of defoliation. Temp and RH was steady for the large part. I’ll be transplanting her to a 4 gallon pot next week, and again once I clear my tent of the other 3 autos I have going, I will transplant again to her 7 gallon final pot. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊😊

Opium week 16 7/22-28 This week has been rainy so the outside girls only got watered and fed once. with all the rain we've had, all the girls grew a bit. I top dressed all girls with Bloomin Soil from Elm Dirt. Photo Opium is now 75 inches and stacking nicely. Happy girl means happy mom.

📆 Harvest Week, 19-25 August 2024 19-22 Aug - Observed and let the plant grow. 23-24 Aug - Flushed with RO water, turned lights down to 40% power. 25 Aug - Harvested the plant, began the curing process. 💚 Thank you Divine Seeds for this sponsored grow! 📑 The final week of flowering for Pablo Escobar! I gave her a good 71 days as recommended by the breeder. She grew using every one of them until the end. Another genetic hit by all means. A pleasure to grow. This is a sativa dominate variety so expect a longer flower time. You will be rewarded with thick dense buds, covered with resins and trichomes, with a sweet herb, earthy smell, nice and danky. Began the curing process in a climate controlled closet with a RH of 53% and temp of 71deg F. The main leaves are removed before the branches are hung upside down for 7-10 days for drying. From there the buds are removed from the branches, separated, and are trimmed to remove as much leaf as possible. Then placed in quart mason jars with a 62% Boveda TerpShield packet, burped daily for about a week or until 62% RH is maintained. Then labeled and placed in a cool, dark closet for long term storage for up to about 8 months or so. 🔥 Smoke Report: It took Pablo 10 days to slowly dry out. I cut all the buds off the branches and used my 19” Bud Trimmer for a quick finished product! I’m really impressed just how fast this trimmer works. It can take about 1/2oz or 14g at a time and with 4 or 5 turns of the handle it’s finished. Nice beautiful manicured buds in about 10 seconds. No more trim jail for me. As for the smoke. The taste definitely is the same as the smell. Lemony or citrus. The high is definitely that of a sativa. Comes on slow, then creeps up on you hard. Stays with you for a couple of hours, needing only a hit or two to recharge the high afterwards. No doubt this strain is very high in THC, and should be taken into account for the beginner. Another genetic hit Divine Seeds! 🍶 19 Aug final nutrient solution change 🍽️ 19 Aug final feeding schedule update 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 1.1 at 74 degree F 🔆 Light power at 50%, DLI 35 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this grow. Thanks for the all the looks, reads and stopping by.

Not much to do at this point but sit and wait. Rocking and average ppfd of like 1000 at the moment and plants haven’t shown any signs of stress, even though some of the higher cola are only like 4 inches from the 300w led panel

Hyper content les plantes se portent à merveilles. J’ai coupé lapex des branches sur le côté, une bonne semaîe et je lance la floraison ( à voir en fonctiin de celle qui à du retard).

Was a lovely plant from start to finish. Very manageable and very much an Indica through and through. I'd probably defoliate and lollipop a little more if i was to grow this strain again.

Hey guys so here are my c.a girls plump out quite nicely . Sorry about pics is so tight for space moving them around at moment just isn't an option . All going well bud sights forming all over . Til next week 😀

This grow went well overall. No herming. No nutrient deficiencys. Can't complain there. However the bud structure wasn't there. And the smell isn't of strawberry sugar or at least during the grow. It's mostly gas with a little sweetness. No real strawberry so far.

Flowering REALLY taking off this week. This lady is turning into a monster. Loving the growth, but also having a hard time controlling the foliage. Not clear I need to prune all that much more. Seems to me the buds are all getting the nutes and light they need. Giving it another week of growth before any hard pruning I think. Fun fact: apparently this plant can drink through a good 3-4 liters of nutrient solution a day when the grow room fans are on full and lights are on.

This week I did a single topping at the 5th node. Along with this I applied low stress training and tucking to expose the new growth.

So here we are end of week 9 and is almost the end for Betty . I think 4-5 days and she I'll be ready for the chop . Has been 10 days flush so far and just been feeding her pH water . I will get some better pics up when chopping her down got real bad lighting in my flat and only take out at night .😀