Update the to a 4x8 this week and added a HLG 300 V2 RSpec with the futur vert FM8 flora max 660watts pumping 960 watts now .. Every thing is stacking up an fattening up beautiful in week 4 , The frost is coming out like a snow storm now in to week 5 flower ... I’m very impressed with the bud size on the slurricane ix this early on !!

She’s been flowering for 4 maybe 5 weeks now initially I thought she was taking long because my 12/12 was a couple mins off giving it more light but corrected that n it just looks like it’ll be a long finish her but it’ll be worth it 😎

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

About 3weeks left.. No problems after Nitrogen and some P deficiencies.. As a new grower best things I have picked up is not be afraid to make mistakes do tons of research and testing nutrients on a separate dummy plant, have fun patience and learn everyday.

May 31st update Clone 1: 9 inches tall. Distinct sativa leaves. Already has 7 pointers and looks like it’s trying to push 9s. Close node spacing Clone 2: 11 inches tall. This one has been growing with the most vigor. Largest node spacing out of all of them. Sturdy stalk. Really happy with this one so far. Clone 3: 5 inches tall. This one has been growing the slowest and least vigor. Doesn’t mean much at this point but going to keep an eye on it Clone 4: 10 inches tall. Close node spacing. Widest out of all the plants. Have a feeling this one will be bushier and squatter All 4 clones: Added red wigglers to both grow boxes, this will help with aeration and compaction. Also transplanted all 4 clones out of their small fabric pots into grow boxes. Top watered boxes but from here on out will only be doing bottom watering. Just wanted to make sure soil was moist as I have been neglecting watering the boxes Parents: I haven’t done anything with the 4 parents this week except water. They are bouncing back from their last topping. I will likely top again in a week or two once they start to take off again Looking forward to this small Pheno hunt. Hoping all 4 are females but we will see! God bless!

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil to be top dressed. Day 1 we had high temperature of 89°F. We had scattered thunderstorms and roughly two hours of rain. No watering today Day 2 we had a high temperature of 80°F. The skies were partly cloudy with a healthy breeze. I water 2-2.5 gallons today. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 79 and partly cloudy skies. This cooler weather has been nice. I watered 2-3 gallons each pot once. Day 4 we had high temperature of 92°F. I watered 3-4 gallons from the hose. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 85°F. Skies were cloudy to overcast with off and on rain until noon. Then partly cloudy in the afternoon. I added 50ml of blood meal and 50ml of iron spread evenly across the tops of the pots. Watering done by rain today. The roots have begun to grow out of the soil on top and down through the pots into the ground. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 86°F, a short rain shower, with cloudy to partly cloudy skies. Watering done today by the rain. Day 7 we had high temperature of 81°F skies were cloudy to partly cloudy. We had some intermittent heavy rain so everyone was watered by nature today. This week was a success.bthe plants topped out at 70" of height. They've begun to feed heavy, so I added blood meal and iron. Next week I'll add some plant tone and coop poop. I defolated the #2 plant as it was getting super bushy. I've not shaped these as much as they need so they don't have a great shape. I'll work on getting them spread out next week.

Hello again my friends! I uploaded longer vids this time for the Vlogs, you don't have to watch em they're there for ya if you're interested :) ~Update~ To start off the girls look great, I'm excited that I'm back where I was when my "First Grow" failed. What's interesting to me is seeing the big difference in the SSH, the 2 previous girls I had were veracious growers, 3 1/2 days of germination and they had a tap root longer than an inch! This one is not so aggressive and has stronger sativa genetics, thin not phat. The others have been doing well, no pest yet which I'll be doing a bleach wipe down of my side of the garage to reduce the chances of an invasion. ~Note~ I'll be updating later this week with a short vid showing the progress. If you happen to watch my longer vlogs let me know what you think down in the comments, I appreciate the feedback ya'll provide. Have a blessed day, much love Meus <3 ~Update 9-19-18 [Mainline]~ So things went well, I'm looking forward to seeing if the clones take. Check out the vid if you wanna see my first attempt at mainlining! The next update will be Tuesday, see ya then!

26/10 ci elle pouvait murire vite maintenant sa m'arrangerai. Elle m'oblige a rester en 12/12 et c'est restrictif. 🤨 27/10 vite mais bien. 😉 29/10Je me doutais bien que l'humidité allait monté. 😕 31/10 elles deviennent carnivore pour halloween.😈 Enfin.. demain ou après demain elle a un rendez-vous avec le sécateur. 🤤 01/11 le capteur d'humidité est mort 😅 En attente d'un neuf, je mets l'humidité a vue de nez.😬 🤤 elle a l'air terriblement bonne.👌♥️♥️

15th Week Report 23/01/20 - 30/01/20 24/01/20 Filled the reservoir with 12L half strength solution since I don't think a plain water flush would help, but just stress the plant. Even if it's written on the bottle to avoid mixing "Final Solution" and "Enzymes" I did it since the solution is just at half strength. Final solution was added at full strength 29/01/20 Harvest day! First Harvest Wet Weight Is 350g! 💦💦 Nothing particular to say, trichomes are 5-10% 🔍 Amber and while I was trimming them I sniffed the best weed flavour I ever felt in my life! I left a couple of colas and the lower growth by looking at trichomes because they aren't mostly cloudy, but clear. For the second harvest I will look exactly like now to trichomes, probably they need 1 or 2 more weeks 💪💪 "Harvest Week" will be published when buds will be dry 😋 Last Update 29/01/20 See you guys ;)

Hello all! This plant looks mature and I have a microscope but the thing is I thing it has over ripened and, some trichomes fell off? Or let me tell you my trichomes never turned MILKY OR WHITE. Some of them are amber tho. Anyways, on growweedeasy.com there is a guide that says : Harvest even if your trichomes are not ready. I guess it will be more a gut feeling to chop or not chop. Any input greatly appreciated. And yes, I have chopped down the main cola and dried and smoked it. I guess it gets me high but I smoke all the time so it's hard to evaluate because I have also bought quality weed to smoke So guys, only from the photos, what do you think? My trichomes looks like half clear %10 amber. Do you think it could go to amber without stopping at milky? Or milky trichomes fell of but there was new growth and I could never see clear trichomes? INPUT ? :)

She was easy to grow and got a huge main cola

Thanks to all who’ve supported and viewed this journey with me. You ALL mean so much you don’t even know! With Love & Peace, Signing off ☮️🏿

. 🌱 : 💧 : 4l day 64. 4l day 66, 7l day 68 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :

Turned light to 12/12 start week 6 day 35. Defoliated the central cola's to allow the sides to catch up. She's stretching fast at the moment. I'll start feeding her from week 7

The made a jump in size. The weather conditions change each day. Some days it's very hot, some days it's more cold with less light. She tripped her size and shows the first pre flowering. Unfortunately she has had heat damage, but it's minor and should not effect her that much. The new leafs look very healthy and the other leafs also look good, except for the heat damage. I think she will be growing to about one meter or so, which is fine for me. I'm looking forward to some nice growth:) I do not plan to use topping or other training techniques, since it's the first time I'm using this genetic and don't want to f it up. She has a really nice spot an my south balcony, which gives her more than enough direct sunlight to bring her to its full potential, if the weather will become more consistent. If more sunlight is predictable, I will increase the silica dosage to prevent more heat damage, even though I know even that has limits. Thanks for participating in this project by viewing or commenting:)

Yesterday I wanted to hang the lamp a little lower and unfortunately it fell into a plant. The damage could be greater but it makes me a little sad. One BigBud looks really beautiful and is slowly turning purple. no one else does that. I also ordered canna terra flores because a few defects are slowly becoming noticeable, especially in the 6 l pots. I am otherwise very satisfied. I currently water about 2 liters in the 6 liter pots and about 3 liters in the 9 liter pots. I will probably use fabric pots or AirPots less in the future because watering them annoys me so much and they dry out very quickly.