The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Week 17 Last week before harvest. Just let the plants ending the maturation process. Good synchronization between the different strains, selected with an approximate identical flowering period. I want harvesting all the plants at the same time. Flowers are dense, hard and thick, pretty resinous. 4 strains = 4 different smells, 4 different colors….🤩 I flushed consciously and stopped watering 4 days before the harvest day. I turned off the light during 48h, with ventilation on. All is ready for the cut. Date is programmed to the full moon period….why not…🤔 I will trim a little bit the plants before cutting and hanging them in the tent with the same ventilation cycle, no light of course…
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The Mandarine Cream is entering its third week of flowering, and the aroma is becoming increasingly potent. The plant is looking beautiful and vigorous, with the buds showing significant daily growth. The smell is evolving into a strong, citrusy scent, reminiscent of grapefruit. Environment: This week began with a cold front, bringing temperatures down to a minimum of 5°C and a maximum of 15°C. A light rain has helped increase the humidity, which could boost resin production, although the cooler temperatures may also slow down the flowering process, just as they did during the vegetative stage. Fertilizing: I've stopped fertilizing as the plant now has everything it needs from the substrate. Watering: Sparse, around once a week, to maintain the right moisture levels without over-saturating. Pest Control: Beauveria applications have been reduced to once weekly, and the garden remains completely free of pests, which is a pleasant surprise. Training: The main cola top remains tied down. I haven't done any further defoliation or additional training. The focus is now on letting the plant continue its natural growth as it transitions deeper into flowering.
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@Rungood
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Flo +48 ca grossit tellement 😍😍 c'est le début des pop corn sur les têtes l'odeur est démente
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@Micogrow
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So if you haven’t noticed before, you probably see it now. LOTS of tied up branches. I was not prepared for how much weight management I was going to have to do lol. Granted, this plant is a whole lot bigger than the lil 2x2 tent plants I’m used to. I don’t typically have to worry about weight at all. Either way, it’ll all workout. Just means it was more tedious work and my hands had to get a bit stickier. Next summer I’ll come up with an actual plant to manage weight. Enjoy the video, does a lot better justice to the amount of bud in this thing.
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Muay Thai has multiple personalities. Plant developments stages are all over the map. From late stage flower in the main column to newly vegging top. Other places, there are flowers in various stages. These pics are from the same plant on taken a few seconds apart. LOL On the late stage flowers, I don't think they can develop in a better quality. Muay Thai is spending energy in earnest growing. So, I am removing late flowers to reduce risk of rots and mold. Checked out @Philindicus Lemon AK diary (week 10). I am following his method and take these trims to make super charged Everclear infusion. Last week, I was feeding both the terpenes nutes and vegging grow nutes. Temperature is back to normal hot with humid air. Humidity and VPD: Hottest part of the day during the week; 34 degree C, Humidity 64%, VPD 1.9 Coolest part of the night during the week; 24 degree C, Humidity 73%, VPD 0.8 Feeding strategy – I am supporting my girl mid-life crisis. I feed her both terpene raising yoghurt. Also add more grow nutes for her. This is pellets earth worm casting and sugar refinery sludge. Feeding Summary Monday evening – Compost tea ( 1.5 ml / liter compost tea + 1.5 ml/liter humic acid). Tuesday evening – Yoghurt ratio ( 1 liter yoghurt to 5 liter of water) Wednesday evening – Molasses ( 2.5 ml / liter). Thursday – sprayed anti-insect microbe Beauvaria bassiana. Friday evening. 1.5 ml/liter humic, 1.5 ml/liter compost tea. Friday evening. Add 200 grams of Earth Worm Casting and another 200 grams of sugar refinery sludge as top soil dressing, to 25 liter basket.
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New home for the girls. In the tent with the light and fan going ! Just wanted to give you a heads up.... found a couple of spider mites on them this morning.... not sure if that came from your place or from mine. But take a close look at yours and lmk if you notice any damage/irregularities @gbagrow The homie is popping like bacon on a Sunday morning. This is part of the game unfortunately, glad we are identifying issues early and eliminating them.
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2nd time growing this strain. Was the best of the bunch last harvest under a cheap 300W LED drawing ~100W from the wall yet still gave me over 4oz Hoping under this brand new Spider Farmer SF-4000 I'll get much more. Just fed plain water in week 1.
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These two did great even through a lil stress they still came out on top. I almost want to run it back but I think it's time for something fruity maybe, maybe having a terpene profile that helps initiate a more stone heavy affect and be indica heavy.
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@Rap_a_cap
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Great climate, ideal. No problems to report, for the moment the critters are focused on something else. If it doesn't get too hot, I'll start reducing irrigation and defoliate more. Today 13.27 hours of light. My Gorilla is doing well, lots of flowers are forming although they are smaller than those in Special Kush # 1. Strong cheese smell. The supercropped twin branches will become one giant bud. August 19 update - Very initial mites infestation promptly treated with nettle macerate spray. August 21 update - first day of new heat wave
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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The pictures speaking for themselves...added some plants that would go to seed after being cross bred with Khalifa Kush. This week onward the girls would be fed black strap molasses for taste and big bud.
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This week we flip, actually, these pics are 2 days into the flip. All going good, its gonna be packed, have to get in the SOG and clear the bottom this week also, added a net to the SOG side to keep the canopy a bit more level. I hear, thats not a real SOG then, the point is, these plants are younger and even with a SOG keeping that canopy level is key. Humidity is always a chore, its something i'm worried about for the flowers so will install an even larger Dehumidifier over the next week or so. Using the spider farmer light control is nice and simple, my auto irrigation is working fine... Onwards and upwards.
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@Natrona
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Straw-Lectric Lemonade-STRNG Seed W13 F4 2/1-7 I am following the TPS1 feed schedule for 9-10 weeks, reducing the PPMs until they reach 850-950. 2/2 PPM 1001 Ph 6.6 68.7 2/5 PPM 934 Ph 6.5 67.4 Tps1 13ml/g Silica Gold 3ml/g CalMag 3ml/g Side by side you can see I usually get a tall and a short pheno when I grow 2 of the same strain. Both S-Lectric Lemonade and S-Trop Cherry are like this. The Cadillacs are both tall exceeding 6 feet: the super cropping held them at 52 inches. the pistils are already turning orange and visible to the eye. We had our first big snow this week following a light dusting last week. Pics show my kitties investigating (but not for long). Stay green, growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona
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~ WEDDING CHEESECAKE FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "A delight for the mind and body: Wedding Cheesecake FF (Fast-Flowering) is a delicious strain that offers XXL yields in a 7-8 weeks flowering cycle. This terpene powerhouse produces loads and loads of mouth-watering vanilla-creamy-cookie-scented terps with hints of citrus and cinnamon. In addition to its delicious aromas, this variety grows very well in both indoor and outdoor setups, yielding up to 650 g/m2 without extra maintenance, making it the ideal strain for beginners as it allows you to maximize yields while minimizing work. This super-fast feminized photoperiod version offers upbeat and energetic yet deeply relaxing effects that are perfect for consumers looking for a heavily focused, motivating, and creative high. It’s the ideal strain for those needing that extra energy boost to start a busy day on the right foot. Wedding Cheesecake FF boasts chunky, large-sized buds with a thick layer of silvery-white resin and bright orange hairs scattered all over: that just screams ‘quality’. The lime-green flowers sparkle with an array of hues ranging from dark to light green, to magenta and purple, and reek of a delicious aroma that’ll remind you of fresh store-bought cheesecake. This is an XXL hybrid that grows extremely tall in height, reaching up to 3m with one huge main cola and multiple long side branches that can withstand enormous yields of up to 650 g/m2 with ease. Wedding Cheesecake FF is extremely resilient to the elements and can be grown in almost every climate as long as you’ve got the space and basics covered, making her an excellent choice for those looking for large-scale harvests with a quick turnaround time without much effort." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Wedding Cheesecake FF indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 4/26- Week Five... here we go! The Wedding Cheesecake FF from FastBuds has her 6th set of leaves now and is looking nice and healthy. She has good color and her growth is beginning to pick up. 4/28- All is well with the Wedding Cheesecake FF. Today I checked the moisture of the soil and decided to water via the garden hose with well water along with a good drink of fresh Compost Tea. 4/30- Rain showers today took care of my watering duties! Yesterday I sprayed her down with Neem Oil to see if it helps to mitigate whatever is beginning to chew on her leaves. 5/2- Another week gone by and this lady is beginning to look like she might end up being a standout! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏
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@Excalibur
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2nd October 2018 - Day 99 Burn slows down Third day of flush and she starts to thicken up. Day 100 - Sweet smell begins as she starts to mature. Day 103 - Begining to mture and dense. Day 104 - Water added and pH balanced 5.4 Day 105 - Last week of Flush
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Week 1 Day 1 - 8/12/2023 1st Water change Day! Such a special time it is when you remove the little bit of Nutes that you gave them as an appetizer and you give them their first real meal. Added 39 Gallons of Water to my system SILICA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Root Drip = 1mil/Gal = 39mil Cal Mag= .25mil/Gal = 9.75 = 10mil FLoraMicro= 3.0mil/Gal = 114mil FloraGro = 2.0mil/Gal = 78mil FloraBloom = 2.0mil/Gal =78mil ORCA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Week 1 Day 2 - 8/13/2023 Everything is looking good the roots are making thier way to the water and the new grow is looking nice and green. Week 1 Day 3- 8/14/2023 Everything is right on track, they are looking beautiful and in the praying postition all leaves happily lifting towards the light. Week 1 Day 4- 8/15/2023 Looking beautiful today and looked like she could use her first haircut.. gave her a TOP off. Roots are laying in the water everything is looking right on track.. Week 1 Day 5- 8/16/2023 walked in and the humidity was under 60.... ohh noooooo.. So I added 2 humidifiers to the tent and attached them to my InkBird controller which is set to 62. She had roots nicely in the water.. this grow is on!!! Week 1 Day 6- 8/17/2023 Humidity was a little low this morning, so I refilled the humidifiers. Other than that, the temp looks great, the PH looks great, the PPM looks good the plant is in the praying position and all damage from the little drowning seems to have been fixed. Happy Happy. Week 1 Day 7- 8/18/2023 Yay.. week 1 in the books, roots in the water growth has started first hair cut given and both side nodes are growing. Everything is looking good and on track.. A lot better than week one of the last grow when I had them drowning week 1. Really excited on how this grow is going to come out.
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Dia 95 de vida , hay dos fotos que son del dia 91 de vida antes de amarrar las plantas, las demás fotos son actuales. Hay una ola de calor esta haciendo mas de 35 grados celcius y hace mal tiempo de un momento a otro puede hacer alguna tormenta así que decidimos coger las plantas para ayudarlas a resistir en caso de temporal. Siguen creciendo y estan monstruosas aunque las indicas ya van marcando pistilo yo creo que aún tardarán en florecer por el momento todo va genial esperemos que no nos arruine el cultivo ninguna tempesta.