05.07. - 11.07. (DD.MM.) On 05.07. I corrected my LST again. The growth of the plant had increased considerably by 06.07.. When examining the plant, I noticed the first beginnings of flowers as can be seen in the pictures. So we are at the end of the growth phase and starting the flowering phase. I cut off a large leaf from one of the main branches because it was shading the branches below. (see pictures) I also cut off two small old leaves from the bottom as they were completely shaded and interfered with watering. (see pictures) I also watered about 500ml without fertilizer because some leaf tips were dark green and bent downwards. (see pictures) Today is the 6th of July - Updates following :D

Just growing through the net now, slight defoliation only when needed, cleaned out some low hanging leaves underneath and a few hopeless bud sites under the canopy. I feel like I could probably defoliate a bit more but not gonna push my first plant, just doing as much tucking as I can to help out. Its adding an inch plus everyday of height now and I am not sure how tall she is going to stretch, Im running out of room above the lights so from here on nearly every inch of stretch will be closing that gap. 18” now will be keeping a close eye and hopefully will not have to dim my lights. Currently running 200w @ 100% veg tuned.

Been away so small gap in the updates but hey so not long now as not drinking much water now and hairs a oranges so 1 more week and off to flushing mode smells potent big flowers and hard as rock Temps are being s bit high around 30c degrees but think is ok

30.05. - 05.06. (DD.MM.) Because the seeds were eaten by fungus gnat larvae in the first two attempts, in which I placed the seeds in a large pot immediately after germination, I first grew the seeds in a smaller pot (approx. 10 cm in diameter) for this third attempt. Because of the fungus gnat larvae, i poured boiling water over my soil before planting and then covered it with aluminum foil until it was cold. That way I was able to kill all the larvae. I put the plant in my self-made growbox (50 x 50 x 120cm) after about 5 days. The plant was under a planting bell and was watered with 10ml of water on the 7th day after planting.

The hermaphroditic of the two S.A.D.s has stopped, in total it remained at 4x 🍌 Since 5 days no more were added and I could already observe via my timelapse recordings how the flowers continue to grow. The Bruce Banner also shows no further deterioration in terms of potassium deficiency, the flowers continue to grow steadily. Although the S.A.D.'s were fertilized identically, neither of them show any major deficiency. Also interesting how S.A.D. #4 has overtaken her sister and her smell is not "grassy" at all. Something between floral with a sweet citrus/orange note. What also surprised me was that the Bruce Banner is already very far along in the development of its trichomes, many are already milky!

Die Blüten bilden sich schön, bin sehr gespannt was da in ein paar Wochen dran hängt. Gestern haben alle Pflanzen nur Wasser bekommen, da die Platt spitzen leicht gelb waren. Ab morgen gibt es wieder die normale Düngung laut BioBizz Schema. Ist es normal das die Wurzel bis zur Oberfläche vom Topf kommen? Seit dem die Nematoden und die Raubmilben im Zelt sind gibt es nur noch vereinzelt mal eine Trauermücke zu sehn . Werd ich auf jeden Fall bei nachfolgenden grows beibehalten. Painkiller 1 und 2 sind in Der Blüte, nr. 3 noch nicht, sie hat aber schön an Höhe aufgeholt. 06.07: Mittlerweile sind wir ende Blütewoche 3 und die Painkiller 3 hat immer noch keine Blütenansätze, das wird interessant bei der Ernte… 08.07 Painkiller 3 ist immer noch stark im Strech und ist mittlerweile die höchste Pflanze im Zelt, Blütenansätzt sind endlich zu erahnen,

Week 6 and I'm not sure this will go 10-12 weeks, it looks like it will finish by week 9🤔

July 5: looking good starting a new week. In a few days out I’ll add another scrog layer to space out the 16 colas. #seedsman420growoff #seedsmanseeds

Day71: Tropicana cookies will be cut tomorrow or as soon as the soil dries a bit more. Wedding cheesecake is getting denser. This week is the last feeding week for her, then she is going to get 10/14 days with water only. Gorilla cookies is super bushy, I’m not going to be a fan when I’ll trim her but she is developing well and putting on some weight. Day72: Tropicana cookies is drying! Now I got 2 plants in the tent. I can’t wait to see wedding cheesecake colors at the end of the flush. Gorilla cookies is going to get her last feeding as well and the she is going to get flushed.

She right on track, no issues with disease or pests, lots of flowers coming in and Im stoked. I respond to questions.

I changed pots from 50 to 100 liter because i had to water every day also it was about root ban,now they look happier and they jumped again .my last plant in video is different genetic and it supposed to be auto flower by mamamari dispensary in italy. At first I thought they scammed me but now i think this plant goes to flowering stage.help me if you can tell is it flowering sign or just showing her sex.thanks guys🙏🏽

June 30, 2024 This week is the end of mid flower. Next week we should be in the final stages of flower. Maturing as it's called. So we will focus on watering this week. Lighting doesn't need to be observed. So I'll be skipping that report unless something changes. Sour Diesel A is drinking next to nothing. Her reservoir is more than half full where the rest of the plants are nearly dry. She still looks good and has great color. But I think she needs to drink more. It's like the soil isn't absorbing much water at all. Maybe it's supposed to be this light. It's a new soil brand, so I'm not really sure what's going on. I think I'll top water her again tomorrow when the reservoir is less than half full. I was considering it today as it's a new week, but I'll be doing everything tomorrow when the rest of the plants are dried out. Sour Diesel B is looking really good. Her lowers look a little underdeveloped. No concern, it's to be expected. But I'd much rather see some development from the supplemental lighting. I'm not sure if it's working or not. I think I have them set up wrong. I need the bars. That's the only thing I can think of. I really don't want to install them so late into the grow, but maybe I will tomorrow. Or later today if I decide to clean out the reservoirs and start fresh. It's still really early. Sour Diesel C is swelling up more noticably now. I think it's due to the top feed. I'm wondering if this soil has issues with bottom feeding. Because I can tell you my previous soil would leave the whole top of the reservoir wet. And the soil would stay at a near constant 45% moisture level. Roots would come out from all over, but this is different. I might have to research the differences. Sour Diesel D has this massive baseball on top. Good side branch buds as well. She needs to be top fed as well. I think. She is a bit light, but doesn't seem to be having any issues. She's drinking just fine though. It's strange. Maybe she is more thirsty than the wicks can handle? The environment is a mess again today. It's really humid out and again it's showing in the tent. 67% humidity. Of course I'll be spending the day opening the tent to let in fresh air. Although, the airflow in the tent should be more than enough to keep air fresh and clean. Just humid. Once the AC kicks on it should drop to around 55%. Let's see how long that takes. It's not hot today. Grow System Environment: Temp: 76.1° RH: 64.4% VPD: 1.07 kPa July 1, 2024 Watering Day! All ladies got a full gallon refill today. Not much else going on. No pictures today. I did rotate a couple plants to get light to the outer branches. Sour Diesel A had about 2 liters left in the reservoir. So I put it in the sprayer and top watered it. There was absolutely no runoff, so I know she is a bit too dry. That should help. The branches are also starting to sway a bit when I move her around. Sour Diesel B has these super dense colas. Great size and smells wonderful. I can't wait to see how she tastes. Very promising quality. And a decent yield for the size. Sour Diesel C is looking really good. Now that all the buds are swelling, they are connecting and making the branches look fatter. She is also starting to sway a bit with movement. Sour Diesel D looks great with her giant cola. Nothing really else to say. I took a leaf off that was just blocking everything. The humidity today is still about 60%. I don't know how to make it go down. The AC hasn't kicked on, so I'm fighting it again. Shocker. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.1° RH: 61.8% VPD: 1.07 kPa July 2, 2024 It's picture day! That's about it though. No watering. Everything looks great! Sour Diesel A is starting to sway a bit. She is definitely packing on the weight in her buds. We are looking absolutely wonderful right now. Great leaf color. Beautiful buds. Nice bright orange pistils. Tons of trichomes. Nice and frosty. She is also holding on to that top feeding from yesterday. I may have to top feed her more often. I will most likely use some recharge when I have to top feed. Just to keep the microbes going. Sour Diesel B has these huge fat buds and some super strong branches as well. There's no real sway unless I jostle the plant, but she is also covered in frosty trichomes. Another week or 2 on her I think. Maybe a bit longer. Sour Diesel C is definitely starting to pack the weight on. Her tops are swaying without much touching. Solid buds and a lot of them. Definitely not a big as they should be. A friend of mine said it could be from a slight lack of water. It's definitely possible. My plants usually go through a gallon in less than 2 days by this time. Sour Diesel D looks great with her baseball sized cola. The side branches look pretty good as well. Lots of trichomes. Super dense. I've also had an idea. I haven't used base nutrients for this entire run as the soil is pre-amended and these are autos. However, I'm starting to think that was a bad idea. I don't think they got enough base nutrients to keep up with growth. It's probably why they didn't shoot up and most likely why 2 of them didn't grow super fat buds. Either way, I didn't have all three bottles anyway, so there wasn't much I could do. I should have used the micro and bloom and just worked with that. I don't have the grow bottle. Anyway, they didn't show any signs of deficiency, so I didn't bother adding them, but I'm starting to think they could have handled a hell of a lot more nutrients than I gave. There's still 2 to 3 weeks left. Maybe I'll add the flower and micro the next watering until flush. The environment is really weird. So it's a super nice day out. 72° and like 40% humidity. Just an overall nice day. On the other hand, my tent is stuck over 60% humidity yet again. So I have my heater turn on periodically to keep the temp up and try to pull some of the humidity out of the air. It's not really working. Even with the tent door open, the humidity is still high. I really don't get it. Grow System Environment: Temp: 72.4° RH: 62.1% VPD: 1.01 kPa July 3, 2024 Not much going on today. Our ladies still have enough water to last another day or 2. I've also decided to add a new gallon of water to each reservoir after the first plant runs out of water. The rest will be top fed into the corresponding plant. Sour Diesel A is definitely the most frosty of the bunch. Her buds are swelling up nicely and are super dense. Another 2 to 3 weeks of this and we are gonna have some hefty buds. Sour Diesel B already has some hefty buds. Not as much frost, but definitely a lot. Her lowers are also getting fairly hefty. Big for lowers that I have seen. Sour Diesel C has super dense buds. Even though they are smaller, I expect them to continue swelling over the next 3 weeks. Sour Diesel D is happily doing her thing. The single massive cola seems to be getting fatter as expected. There's still a good 2 to 3 weeks left on her, so I expect some super weight on the cola. The environment is jacked up. I don't know how to fix this with what I have. Now it's 64% and I have no idea why. It'll drop shortly when the central air kicks on. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.3° RH: 58.8% VPD: 1.17 kPa July 4, 2024 Happy 4th everyone who celebrates it. It's picture day! Not a ton going on today, just some slight adjustments. Sour Diesel A looks good. She's getting heavy and swaying on the wind. Tons of frost, lots and lots of orange pistils. Sour Diesel B has massive frosty buds. They are super dense and look great! Honestly, there's a lot of leaves, but they are big. Even the sugar leaves are big. It should be pretty easy to trim. Sour Diesel C had light burn on one of the leaves that was way too close to the supplemental lighting. I snipped it off and rotated the plant slightly to get the leaves directly off the light. Secondly, she was super light, so she got a half gallon of just recharge top feed. I didn't use any of the nutrients, just the recharge. Hopefully that triggers some water intake. Sour Diesel D looks ridiculous with her one massive cola. Kinda looks like the main top of a huge plant that was cut off. Lol. She's drinking really well right now. The bottom of the container is evenly wet throughout. A great sign. She will be putting on more weight I think. Super frosty too. The central air kicked on really early today, so the environment should be good for the day. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.8° RH: 57.7% VPD: 1.26 kPa July 5, 2024 Not a lot going on today. I checked the plants and watered D. Sour Diesel A looks really nice. Super frosty and her pistils are bright orange and shriveling against the buds. It's really pretty. Sour Diesel B is packing on more weight. I see the natural foxtails. I wouldn't call them foxtails. I'd call them buds that got too big for the cola. Hell yes. Sour Diesel C is looking super good. Her buds are still swelling and frost is still coming in. Sour Diesel D was bone dry today. Not the soil, but the reservoir. The soil was a little dry, but it will soak up the water and fix itself. If not, I'll be doing a half gallon top water tomorrow. I did the full nutrient regimen, but I used the rest of the half gallon for A yesterday. I topped it off and left the Recharge in. The environment is messed up like it is every morning. But it's noon now and the humidity is still at 64%. When the central air kicks on, it will drop down to 50% by mid afternoon. The temp is still really good at 75°. Very happy with that. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.2° RH: 57.6% VPD: 1.24 kPa July 6, 2024 It's picture day! It's also the last day of week 6 of flower. Day 77 from seed. I also did my weekly video. Sour Diesel A is looking quite good. Her branches are pretty stiff and that frost is insane. It looks like white frosting all over. Some is so thick you can't see the green beneath. Sour Diesel B looks great! Her leaves just started to canoe a bit. I'm not sure if she is reaching or coming to the end of her life, or has some sort of toxicity or deficiency. I don't think so though. Nothing has changed in weeks. However, tomorrow I'll be watering with Overdrive for the rest of the grow cycle. She's also foxtailing. Not entirely sure that's supposed to happen, but it is. Although, I read somewhere that the Sour Diesel strain tends to produce foxtails naturally. Sour Diesel C is a bit droopy. I'm not sure why. She doesn't seem to need water, but I may top feed her tomorrow as well as refill the reservoir. Maybe I'll water to runoff. I'd say a gallon of water should do it. Or 3/4 gallon. Either way, I think she needs it. Actually, I'm thinking the rest of the plants need it too. Maybe I'll just water all of them to runoff. Sour Diesel D is just doing her thing. Not much to report. A couple little foxtails here and there, but the buds are still super dense. Let's hope it's a natural occurrence and not some environmental issue, like the @#$&ing humidity being too high. I should definitely try to research this. The environment is back to what it has been. High humidity in the morning and then it drops down to 54% by mid afternoon and by evening it's down to 49%. The temp is perfectly under control. At a steady 75° to 76° all day. Night time is a bit weird lately though. 72° at night. Mostly because the central air kicks off and my room warms up. I have my room AC but we all know by now that the thing blows out humidity like a rainforest. It just doesn't make sense. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.3° RH: 57.3% VPD: 1.25 kPa

Week 5 there was a lot of sun I watered it completely every 3-4 days

Week 6 was mostly sunny and warm

1.7.2k24 Power roots Alga Bloom Plagron PK 13-14

Start of week 5

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. The script to come. Removal of 660nm wavelength is the signal that triggers the plant to accelerate terpenes/flavinoids production in flowers, this is the mechanism the higher plant uses to attract potential pollination from further afield, survival of the species is no joke for the plant, it senses the sky around it has removed all the 660nm, the plant starts to focus on terpenes and flavinoids production if she has not been fertilized by this point she must attract pollination from a further afield. 3-day treatment, ZERO 660nm initiates accumulation, RH kept below 20% (harder than you think)(Dropping temps helps a lot). The plant can sense the humidity drought, the plant will close its stomata to prevent the release of moisture given the conditions. Two highly specialized cells, the guard cells that surround the stomatal pore, can integrate environmental and endogenous signals to control the stomatal aperture and thereby the gas exchange. The uptake of CO2 is associated with a loss of water by leaves. Control of the size of the stomatal aperture optimizes the efficiency of water use through dynamic changes in the turgor of the guard cells. The opening and closing of the stomata are regulated by the integration of environmental signals and endogenous hormonal stimuli. The various factors to which the guard cells respond translate into the complexity of the network of signaling pathways that control stomatal movements. The perception of abiotic stress (RH less than 20%) triggers the activation of signal transduction cascades that interact with or are activated by phytohormones. Among these, abscisic acid (ABA), is the best-known stress hormone released that forces closed the stomata. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Clinical death is the trigger the plant requires to start decomposing and breaking down said chloryphyll. The same way a clone doesn't die when you chop it off, most people hang plant to dry alive providing rh 60% drying slow which is so close to rh 70% (keeping clones alive). Boiling roots 30s clinically kills the plant and begins decomposing the chloryphyll breaking it down. Most people have it hang for the 3_4 days alive, it drys perfectly fine but breaking down chloryphyll to a size small enough to be attached to water molecules takes time. If the plant dries "ready" but only clinically died 12 hours ago well then you are smoking chloryphyll. 72 hours of zero light is a biological self termination trigger. Annoys me when I read people mock the 72 hours of darkness "DOES NOTHING", "POINTLESS". Boil roots or 72 hours dark, pick one otherwise your smoking 90% of the chloryphyll period. Chemical decomposition of chlorophyll must begin simultaneously to the drying process if you want smooth smooth. Then the Formative Mind ([at-oned] with Reason), he who surrounds the spheres and spins them with his whorl, set turning his formations, and let them turn from a beginning boundless unto an endless end. For that, the circulation of these [spheres] begins where it doth end, as Mind doth will. But to the Mind-less ones, the wicked and depraved, the envious and covetous, and those who mured do and love impiety, I am far off, yielding my place to the Avenging Daimon, who sharpening the fire, tormenteth him and addeth fire to fire upon him, and rusheth upon him through his senses, thus rendering him readier for transgressions of the law, so that he meets with greater torment; nor doth he ever cease to have desire for appetites inordinate, insatiately striving in the dark. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence. Upon orgasm, man releases dopamine, "dope", self-explanatory. A woman releases oxytocin, an extremely strong bonding agent. But there is a catch, the more people you use it on, the less bonding will occur. Promiscuity was sold with "Feminism". For the first time in history, there are more women above the age of 30 with no children than there are below. I was randomly reading around and had a little chuckle to myself when i read this, “In women it is usually accompanied by muscle contractions in the uterus, vagina and rectum, and sometimes in other parts of the body. In addition, the little known female ejaculation may occur to a greater or lesser degree, which is nothing more than a transparent liquid composed of different substances such as prostate antigens, enzymes, glucose and fructose secreted by Skene’s glands." My first thought was "Wonder what the NPK ratio is on that" Maybe I'll start my own specialized fertilizer company. Just bottle up some squirt and call it "Fannies Fluid", PACKED FULL OF ENZYMES! HIGH IN CARBOHYDRATES! BOOST YOUR PLANTS WITH ANTIGENS! Maybe just set up a lemonade stand.

Start of week 5

Getting close to harvest, trychomes on 2 plants on perfect level. other 3 may stay a few more days.

She has not picked up in the last few weeks and she’s not recovering with more signs of deficiency it’s evident that she never made it but I will bloom her and try again with her in the near future. She must have some kind of infection I’m not sure if there is root damage but hey I really tried 😏