The grow itself was really easy, apart from keeping the height in check on a relatively long indoor veg. These did love a lot of nutrients, though I couldn't push them as hard as I would've liked to, even without CO2. There were times of 4.5-7EC in the substrate during vegetative phases of the grow, and they took it with a bit of tip burn, but nothing too serious. During generative phases I was really able to push them, though not as hard as the Florida Pie I grew prior from Jungle Boys.

📅 Week 8 | 🗓️ Days 50–56 – Start of week 9 | first signs of flowering 🌸 Day 56 - Papayton 🚀🏀 🔸 Very vigorous this week: broad, even canopy with lots of tops; the stem is solid with nice “knuckles” from training. Lower shoots are tidy – air and light are getting through well. Leaves are rich green, upright, and without burns. The first pistils are appearing at the nodes and tips – the transition to flowering has begun. 🔸 Setup: on 12/12 since day 50. With ~700 PPFD approx. DLI ≈ 30 mol/m²/day – ideal for stretch/transition. Maintain a distance of ~40 cm and adjust during stretch. Over the next few days, I will increase to approximately 900 PPFD. 🔸Biotabs & water only: continue as before. Keep pH at around 6.2, maintain even moisture (no hard drybacks). Only add more if there are clear signs of deficiency – otherwise, don't force anything. 🔸In week 9, small flower clusters should form; if necessary, lightly defoliate and provide support sticks/trellis so that the tops can start cleanly. 📈 Current Conditions 🌡️🔆 = 24°C 🌡️🌜 = 19°C 💨 Humidity = 60% 🔦 PPFD = 700 µmol (12/12) 🛠️ Setup (unchanged) 💡 2 x SANlight Evo 4 - 120 @ 80% ⛺ 120 x120 x 180 Spiderfarmer 🍯 Pots: 18 liter fabric pots 🌱 Soil: Bio-Bizz light mix 💊 Nutrients: BIO Tabs only water method 💧 Water: Tap Water 0,5 EC 🌱 “Easy, organic, only-water method. Save 15% with GDBT420. biotabs.nl/en/shop/”

Le FF di @Fast_Buds sono velocissime!!! In una settimana sono cresciute molto più delle normali Autofiorenti, ieri ho effettuato il travaso finale nei vasi in tessuto da 11L con tutta la miscela Dogma Super Soil e da ora in avanti only water 💦 vediamo come si sviluppano prossimamente! Le macchie bianche sulle foglie sono macchie di Zeolite Pure 10 micrometri sempre di Dogma Organics!

This is a strain that is very easy to grow and resistant, after the fourth week it sticks a lug, and does not need a lot of vitamins, it grew with only 13 and 12 hours of light and went through cloudy days and a lot of humidity

2. Semaines sans publie

She's starting the week phenomenally, she has gone trough a really nice stretch and she's ready to start producing her beautiful flowers, cannot wait to see her in ful flower!! Follow me on this journey!

Can’t wait to chop her down,this color and this smell is from another planet,the smell is like creamy,milky,cookie,sweet…I hope she will become fat

Week #4 of bloom , girls are all looking good , going to remove some of the shade leaf this week to open up the canopy and get some more light to the smaller bud sites , I dialed my feed schedule back to 3 times per 24 hrs , I haven’t seen any negative reactions to the adjusted feeding and it’s been a week since I made the changes ,

It was overall a very very fast grow, definitely in the room im growing in now. I had 2 different lights on her and she still decided to be done within 10 weeks!

is the one of the first auto ... is veri good .. but i want to grow again....... about norther light i have burn the pistilll ... cry cry ... i have use so much pk .. is not in the vid but the day after vid all is burn and brown ...... omg fail pk .. 1 years ago ... now ?? look my new diary <font style="vertical-align: inherit;"><font style="vertical-align: inherit;">👽 </font></font>

Que pasa familia, este proyecto no va tan bien como el anterior pero aun así intentaré sacarlo adelante y lo mejor posible. Se efectuó el trasplante a macetas de 7 y de 15 litros , aumentamos el riego , y en nada abonaré con un producto rico en Nitrógeno, ya que el trasplante no les sentó del todo bien y la planta en si está chupando su Nitrógeno, por eso el principio de amarilleo en los bajos. Tener tiene solución vaya. Ahora para que no vaya a más entre riego y riego hay que estar atento para que no sufra excesos por qué sería sumar problemas. Ya empecé abonar con Advanced nutrients la gama básica del mono. Y poco más lo que veis quitando el problema del nitrógeno guay pero eso es dejadez así que ya sé que me tengo que poner las pilas , un abrazo y buenos humos familia 💨💨

I was late on giving them their next feeding. I didn’t wanna do it too early because of impatience but I should’ve listened to the plants. Added 1tsp (5ml) of uprising foundation for some cal mag. Other than that, just watering. I’ve been boiling water, a day or so in advance to get rid of chlorine and anything else I can.

Got about 30g dry bud didnt smoke yet still curing smells nice bud look real nice when I trimmed them ...

Powder: GREENHOUSE BIO FEEDING Line which are organic! For LIQUIDS ******GREEN BUZZ LIQUIDS***** also organic. Also i’m using their LIVING SOIL CULTURE in powder form! MARSHYDRO ⛺️ has large openings on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights 💨MARSHYDRO 6” in-line EXTRACTOR with speed-variation knob, comes complete with ducting and carbon filter.

Weekly update on these three. One is pretty much done and is ready to chop this week where the other two aren't far behind. The dense tight buds are pungent as can be. Definitely one that flowers super fast it seemed like and not to hard to grow. All in all Happy Growing

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Week two starting. The delux slurbet (rhs) are really stretching. The GSC (lhs) not so much At end of week (day 14 from flip)had a nice haircut so the air and light can penetrate