The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
Likes
Comments
Share
Ya estamos en plena floración y con las luminarias a max potencia... Evidentemente el aire acondicionado también está trabajando durante la fase de encendido. Flowa-Bloom es la estrella de los nutrientes a incorporar, pero todos son importantes... Así que sigo la tabla de fertilización de JUJU Royal al pie de la letra. Eso si, primero humedezco bien el sustrato con agua, para aprovechar bien la solución con los nutrientes y que no filtre por las macetas textiles. Riego cada cuatro días.
Processing
Likes
4
Share
@Ledros
Follow
Day 64 (2020-07-12): Watered at 5.8 PH Day 67 (2020-07-15): Starting flush of CBD Crack. Water only @ 5.8 PH. Continuing to feed G14 for another week. 5.8 PH. Day 70 (2020-07-18: Continuing flush of CBD crack, water only at 5.8. G14 gets the same MC dose @ 5.8
Likes
43
Share
@Coopmc
Follow
Look like might be finished at the end of week 7 Smells like PB&J that in a gym bag Taste and high of Skunk #1
Likes
6
Share
Carbon filter and in-line fan with tempature and humidity controls installed, as weak smell noticicable, when opening tent. Watering increased to 2 litres every 3 days with frequency of feeding increased to each time I water.
Likes
11
Share
@Dunk_Junk
Follow
+20cm vertical height change this week. Flowering stretch slowing down. That's bad news for me after her first 3 weeks being very slow growing. I missed the window for good veg growth by (I think...) low temps in the tent. As a very small plant cold roots stunts growth. Being an auto you cannot extend the veg period so I'm stuck with her being a very small plant. Nutrients as above added to 10L water along with 5g of 20-20-20 powdered fertiliser. Still... if we're always learning nothing is lost. Just data in the memory bank.
Likes
17
Share
We’re in the second week of flowering, and the plants are really starting to stretch! 🌿 They’ve gained good height, especially the one without LST, which has grown tall very quickly. It’s been exciting to watch them reach upward as they prepare for the bud development phase. Everything is looking good overall, and I’m happy with the progress so far. I’m really looking forward to seeing how the buds will start forming in the next few weeks! 😁✨
Likes
52
Share
You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
Likes
51
Share
Como estáis familia, vuelvo de nuevo, y traigo esta vez la tercera semana de crecimiento de estas cookies gelato, royalqueenseeds tiene variedades increíbles, entre otras , esta. . Lo primero, se han trasplantado a final de semana a su depósito real 11L. . La humedad anda entre 60/70% la temperatura está entre 23/26 grados , y como siempre el ph , ya que es de lo más importante,está en 5,8/6,0. . AgroBeta: 0,8 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,2 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0,15 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,05 ml x L Gold Joker, vía radicular. . Espero que os guste , para mi hasta ahora las que mejor ritmo están llevando, buenos humos 💨💨💨.
Likes
1
Share
Got little under a half lb of buds from the sugar cane all nice frosty dense sticky buds. And got 2 gallon bags packed full of sugar leaves and popcorn buds to use for cold water hash 🤤🤤 not bad I must say with the quality of the buds and being stuffed in a 4×4 tent with black cherry twist from @InHouseGenetics . This stuff is gonna wash amazingly.
Likes
35
Share
Buds are getting denser, stickier and stinkier this week. Defoliated a few leaves from each plant throughout the week. Watered every 2 days with a 1/4 gallon to each. They got a mild compost tea beginning of the week to boost the microbial life and their final top dress towards the end of the week. Aerated Compost Tea Recipe (24 hour brew) 2 gallons rain water 2 cups Coast of Maine Lobster Compost 3 tablespoons GS Plant Foods Fish & Kelp 3 tablespoons EWC 1 tablespoon kelp meal 1 tablespoon azomite 2 tablespoons molasses Top Dress per 3 gallon container 3 tablespoons Dr Earth Flower Girl 1 tablespoon Down to Earth All Purpose 1/2 tablespoon Down to Earth crab meal 1/4 cup EWC Day 43 - watered with 50/50 mix of compost tea and rain water pH 6.0 Day 45 - plain rain water pH 6.4 Day 47 - top dress and plain rain water pH 6.4 Day 49 - rain water w/ Recharge @ 1 tsp per gallon and Natural Wet @ 1 tbsp per gallon pH 6.5 StayWeeded ✌️
Likes
25
Share
@Kakui
Follow
Flower18, riego con 6.2 pH y EC 2.2, pequeña defoliación. Flower22, riego con 6.5 pH y 3.0 EC. Hoy las plantas me han sorprendido, están creciendo mucho sus flores, se están viendo muy llenas. Me preocupa que por el espacio muy justo, puedan generar hongos, tendré que colocar tutores para separar un poco las ramas y mejorar la ventilación poniendo 1 o 2 ventiladores extra, quizás darle más potencia al extractor también. A parte de eso van súper bien 😁
Likes
7
Share
Yellowing, Browning, drying and curling of leaves continues. The issues cut be due to insufficient run-off when feeding, run-off has been 5-10% instead of 15-20%. Buds are still fat, sticky and stanky! Based on flowering time by the breeder,this will probably be the last week of feeding.
Likes
11
Share
Booming and blooming. One pheno is about 25" tall, and the other is over 3' tall. Not a ton of odor yet, but I continue to be very impressed by the growth rate of these Pride of the Lion genetics. Sprayed CannControl on Wednesday as a preventive measure. Aphids are strong in the brussels sprouts right now.
Processing
Likes
33
Share
✋Wk12:Trichome Hunting and Changes in diet. 👉The week has shown to be not just the usual fun of having cannabis in the flowerings stage, but also the frustration of having cannabis in the flowering stage. The fun is the funky stank that hits me in the face as I open the tent each time, then gazing at the magical flowers as they get plumper and fuzzier. The frustration comes from the seemingly slow motion pace the plants are taking as I dream of harvest day. 👉The 3 gallon plant has reduced its volume of liquid it consumes. However, I have only slightly reduced the total volume of solution given each time. I have kept the EC around 1.3. The run-off has climbed quickly between fertigations, and I have done a couple of H2Only irrigations. The runoff EC spiked on the last day of this week. I did another H2Only irrigation followed by regular nutrients. I have seen issues on the upper leaves that could be nutrient related, or maybe light stress, perhaps its moody and hates me for not spending more time with it. I have been keeping the lights at around 17” from the top of the main cola. The lights driver is turned fully on (light is rated at 150W). Its counter intuitive to me that the light would be causing light stress since its only 150w. I would think a much more intense light would cause that or one kept a lot closer. So I have pulled the light to its max height. I may dial back the driver a tad. The buds are getting very bulky and are very dense. I hope they stay that way and not foxtail like its tent mate is doing. 👉The one gallon plant is starting to fade. Its larger leaves are mostly yellow. I take the yellow leaves when they begin to dry up. Some just fall off when touched. I’ve done some extensive trichome hunting and have only spotted only scant few ambers. Most are still clear, but there are lots of cloudy ones too. Very hard to differentiate if they are in the direct light of one of the grow lights (or any led light). The led light makes them all look cloudy, but indirect light shows most are still clear. I will continue checking each day for the status of the trichomes. I will harvest when almost all are cloudy with only a few clears remain. I have kept its solution volume at 1.5l at the low range EC of nutrient solution. I have also given a couple of H2Only irrigations to lower the EC runoff. The buds are sort of fox tailing but look very much like the breeders picture on the product page. The cola are long and getting bulky, but probably not very dense. They are super frosty and the calix’s are getting very large, much like the gorilla glue I grew was. The aroma of the funky stank is strong enough to be smelled outside (I vent outside). The up close smell is different than the tent smell…still creamy sweet caramel…so weird to me…I can’t wait to try it…in like 8 more weeks…sigh. I will harvest the plant when it says its ready. Almost there.😷