We are now fully into early–mid flowering and the crop is developing exactly as planned. Bud sites are well defined across the entire canopy, with uniform stacking and good internodal spacing thanks to proper SCROG management and selective lower clean-up. Environmental parameters have remained stable throughout the week: • Day temperature: ~24–25 °C • Relative humidity: ~50–55 % • VPD: ~1.3–1.4 kPa • PPFD: ~860–890 µmol/m²/s • DLI: ~38.8 mol/m²/day This setup is allowing the plants to push photosynthesis efficiently without showing signs of light or heat stress. Tops are healthy, leaves remain responsive, and flower sites are actively building mass. Nutrient strategy is focused on supporting flower development while maintaining balance: • Stable EC around 1.1–1.2 mS/cm • pH consistently adjusted to ~6.3 • Gradual reduction of Grow and controlled increase of Bloom inputs Some lower leaf yellowing is present, which is expected at this stage as the plants redirect energy and mobile nutrients toward flower production. Overall vigor, structure, and resin development indicate good root function and nutrient uptake. The coming phase will focus on maintaining this stability while carefully increasing demand to support flower bulking, always prioritizing quality, resin production, and final yield potential. Everything is progressing according to plan. 🚀🌸

I love this strain cant wait till she finished. Never done it by crop king before. Not to familiar with there genetics. Heard there pretty good and have some dank.

It is still hot here, even though it is a tad cooler. The leaves still show some unhappiness. The buds have grown beautifully fat and do now boast some impressive size. The buds are getting too heavy and I had to add some support. It smells very fresh and citrusy, like grapefruit. I love the smell. I´ll start checking the trichomes now...

A bad day for me as soon as I took pictures one of my Ballast went out Going to substitute with 600 W spider farmer L. E. D. Until my new balance arrives in 2 weeks.Did low stress training to my clones.

Hi all buddies! First crop from hydro nft growth. Growth went well, I had some management problems in changing nutrients from veg to bloom which delayed the harvest for a week or two. Sensi Seeds' Skunk # 1F is incredibly resistant to mold and insect attacks, very close internodes ensure low height and compact buds. Unfortunately I chose the mother phenotype wrong, I found the lowest as I wanted but I lost the fatness of the buds present in other phenotypes, but the game was worth the same and I am very proud of it! I collected after 94 days of flowering, the last 72h 20kg ice cubes in the tank and total darkness which the last 24h without irrigation. After cutting I hung the whole plants in the tent for 24 / 48h 19 ° C 55% HR. Two days of wet trim to 8 girls and I hung their colas in the tent to continue drying. With a girl i tried dry trim but i will avoid next time. After a week in the tent I cleaned the colas and removed all the sticks, I placed everything in airtight bags in the refrigerator for 5 days 12 ° C 65% HR (daily check). Now dark storage room at a temperature of 18 ° C 65% HR. At the last weighing a few days ago it was more than 500g, from now it does not lose any more weight. Next week I will take pictures of the weigher and the finished harvest🍀🍀🍀 target!!🍀500g dry/cured🔥 Thank you GD community you are precious for everything, criticism, advice, curiosity, thanks 💚🌱✊🏼 Awesome people here on GD🔥🔥🔥

6/13/25 everything is coming along smoothly for the Divine Rapier autos. I had to pick a seed shell off of the more scraggly looking one but they’re green and happy In their environment except for the weird one that had the cotyledon leaves come out the seed before the tap root. Her tap root started to grow up out of the soil and that made me think that maybe I was wrong so I tried to bury her slightly so that maybe she’d figure it out for herself. She doesn’t seem to be so I may need to pop the 3rd seed Stay tuned for what comes next. Also check out my X account and YouTube for any extras that I can’t post here. I have a full seed planting video on YouTube of these strains, that is too Long to post on here.

Empiezan a oler bastante bien. El primer riego de esta semana fue de 1200ml. Les he conectado un extractor con salida a la calle porque empezaba a oler toda mi casa. Último riego de la semana 1500ml

Flowering time was literally 44days to include 48hrs of darkness before cutting down. Also showed 0 nute issues. Only regret is I cloned the hell out of her and let her get too tall which killed my yield....so far, but clones are now all bigger than mom wooo hahaha! So in the end I was expecting 1.5 oz and got 1.3 (however, I havent harvested the roughly 4 grams of popcorns yet) which is fine being she made some top shelf buds...they a beauties!

Once again these girls don’t really need much just watering when dry but other than that we are on cruise mode. I have been checking trichomes for about a week now and man is she almost there I should be giving them lights out with in another week or two can’t wait

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Plant has solid root base

Day 21: So we are currently in day 21, I finished all my work for my growroom. They where pushed into flowering 5 days ago. They always need to settle first before even turning into that stage. So my gues that in the end of the next week we will start to see the first indicators. I still gave them veg nutrients this week since they are still in growing stage. I did notice that many plants have weak stems and where sloppy underneeth. Didn't liked that, so in order to have thicker stems and branches I decided to top all the plants ( not showing in these picutues, i did that after making the pictures) Topping your plants will create stronger thick stems and branches! Also removed the first 1-2 internodes on each branch. I kept 5 or 7 branches each plant. I can't remember the ''science'' behind it but I have been told that many years ago by fellow OG Dutch growers and Family members. Anyway It is importend to have uneven branches. So 5, 7 or even 9 but never 6 or 8. Normaly I would have loved a huge main cola and it is known by many amnesia growers to not top the plants because they make beautifull thick main colas. On the other hand, when having this much plants on each m2, it will create weak stems and branches. I rather have strong plants with thick stems and branches to transport all nutrients properly and not breaking when having buds on them or having to mayor support them. The leafs, stems and branches look fine to me. No stress or deficiencies. 1/3 of them like to drink thought which is a good thing but it really enjoying. Now I have to weigh by lifting the pots which one needs more or less feedings lol. Instead of giving them all like 5 seconds of water. Might show you guys my feeding ''barrel'' next week. It is a 250L one. Untill next week.

So I chopped the plant today on day 48, so now it’s drying time. I’ll be back in one week to see the results.

The stretch has stopped with precision, and Skywalker Haze has now set a course for floral compaction and terpene production. The AN Master Recipe protocol is in full effect with Overdrive just activated. The 3 daily watering cycles via drip kit ensure gradual and balanced absorption throughout the day, adapting to the plant's metabolic rate. 💡 Lighting: Phlizon FD9600 on maximum Mars Hydro 100W on low

01/22: Début de la récolte (fin: 4jours plus) première essaye de la récolte par etapes (la prochaine je donnerai 1 ou deux semaine aux fleurs les plus basses.). A part ça le résultat est bluffant toutesz les buds sont bien dense et colorée, belle a croquer :)

Hi guys! here is how my beautiful girls proceed! they had a nitrogen boost in the first few weeks of flowering, but are now stable, feeding well and having a beautiful streccing (x2 / x3). The pre-flower seems to be forming well and on day 22 from the change to 12/12 the first trichomes appeared! I'm curious about how it will go and very excited 💪🏻 good 4:20 and good cokttivation everyone !!

Geruch wird immer intensiver . Bald ist ernte