The main purpose of chlorophyll is to capture photons of energy. When growth is no longer a priority for a plant in nature, it will naturally sink its "no longer needed" nitrogen and switch pigments to carotene and anthocyanin, which are better-suited pigments for environmental protection rather than capturing photons (growth). This is because of all nutrients used by a plant, nitrogen in its nitrate form is highly stable and required for the rigours of electron capture, ammoniacal nitrogen readily evaporates into the air during cure/dry. The ripening stage is no longer about growth, but the main priority is protecting trichomes and opening up the oxidative capacity of the plant so it can focus 100% of filling those trichomes. Nitrogen in its elemental nitrate form is no longer required during ripening to the same degree as it was; the vast majority of growth is over. Understanding when to shift a plant's focus from rapid growth to maturation is the key to maximizing the trichome quality and terpene profile of the final product. That is the single most important decision you will make during a grow in terms of dictating smoothness, taste, and smell, I have found from my limited years of dedicated and driven study into the matter. Synthetic nutrients maintain a near full nitrate ratio comparable to ammoniacal nitrogen, whereas organic nutrients maintain a supply of ammoniacal and convert only to nitrate what is needed. This is far more beneficial for organic growers when it comes to smoke smoothness, as the higher levels of ammoniacal nitrogen are far easier to dispose/convert than nitrates come harvest, cure/dry with far more efficient margins held within leaf/bud when it comes to conversion to aminos. A good dry and cure can go a long way to a quality smooth smoke, but without a proper senescence sequence or triggered autophagic sink of nitrogen, then you will be asking far more than can be expected from a dry/cure. It's one thing to sink the last 5-10% and convert the last drips to amino acids during the dry and cure, but leaving the plant fully charged with nitrogen in the form of nitrate is simply not going to taste good, no matter how much smoke you blow up your own ass or how long you have been growing. Means nothing. Smoke quality relies on pre-harvest physiology, not just the dry and cure! The dry and cure cannot fix poor pre-harvest metabolic states. A high-quality, smooth smoke requires correct signalling before harvest. While a proper dry and cure can gently soften the edges and convert the last 5-10% of sugars into amino acids, it fundamentally cannot perform magic on a fully fertilised plant. You cannot oxidise stable nitrates (+5 charge) into a smoother state during drying. Ultimately, accept it's going to be a heavy smoke and be grateful, onwards upwards! The way in which ammoniacal nitrogen reacts to carbon sugars is critical in how it acts during oxidation and is responsible for oxidizing leftover sugars that can make the buds smoke harshly. Limited ammoniacal equals limited oxidation of excess carbons held within tissues. Just so you know, it's not an anecdotal rule that's unresolved and unsubstantiated. It's called the Maillard reaction. Signal triggers and stressors. Normally, you can only use 10-30% ammoniacal nitrogen, but as harvest closes, it is beneficial to increase this ratio 50% of ammoniacal as it assists in steering the plant towards maturation. Rather than running 50% ammoniacal nitrogen continuously until harvest, use it in short, targeted flushes/additions (e.g., 7 days) to slow internode elongation and hasten maturity. Use alongside forced larger "dry backs" (allowing the root zone to dry out significantly between watering events). Raising the Electrical Conductivity EC of the medium to create mild osmotic stress. Widening the day-to-night temperature difference and increasing the vapour pressure deficit VPD. How would you like your cola's sir? Arm length, please, no gaps with trichomes as thick as snow.

Left alone for a week in autopot. Lack of nutrients :(

My overall impressions of this strain from MSNL: Ive noticed that MSNL genetics tend to switch to flower earlier than all the ther autos i've grown. The initial growth on the plant starts out small headed into flowering but then explodes during flowering. Because of this I start my feed at week 3 and I used the full NFTG advanced feed but only at 1/2 the recommended amounts of the early veg schedule they made. This works out well with these plants and by week 5 they can handle the full Nute schedule. A proper flush was needed at-least twice a week during the flowering period. It is a lot of work to maintain PH and soil PPM but its essential with the NFTG and if you do it right you WILL get rewarded with Danky goodness. Last time around I grew three plants and tried 3 different training techniques to see which method worked better for this strain. I learned that LST with minimal defoliation is the best route and I stuck with what I knew and im pretty sure it worked out great! I got nice uniform growth growth and 4 truly massive main bud stalks with very dense growth even below the canopy. I virtually had no popcorn nugs, I think I had one! I also contribute that to my NFTG nutrients and Spider Farmer sf2000 202 W qb, that thing kicked some serious ass during flowering, although it is relatively strong and some of my other autos seemed to be affected by the intensity but this Purple Hulk was very heat resistant through it all. Overall I would definitely recommend using LST to some extent with these genetics because of the small initial growth you will get at first. Start the nutes sooner than later. maybe week 3, but at half the strength. Feeding the soil would be a good idea right from the get go . Mammoth P is a cool microbe that targets phosphorus directly and recharge will slam pack your substrate with beneficial microbes and ive noticed a very clear difference after incorporating these into my NFTG feed. Another thing I did that seemed to help was weekly epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) sprays on top of my bloom khaos foliar sprays. I didn't deal with any deficiencies at all this time around following this feeding regiment 👌 I do not have taste/aroma info for this specific plant just yet but I will update this frequently with new information when I get it including dry weight, taste, and aroma, more photos, and overall impressions of its medicine. so please stay tuned!! Dubes~ *UPDATES* March 3- I removed the PHULK from 32 hours of darkness and chopped branches. 19.5 oz wet on the scale!! Im attempting hang drying for the first time because of my dry conditions.

Si inizia 🤩

Week 8

51 flowering day -1300 ppm. PH 6.8 . super smell in my rooms

20/11 : F+10 22.11 : 1 L of water 24.11: ras 26.11 : 0.75L of fertilizer. No more insects, humidifier + water spray worked :D 27.11 : nothing, ras

spring is coming and goodbye cloudy days

Día 48 (10/06) Riego con 1 Litro H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/I +TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 49 (11/06) Riego con 1 Litro H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + K-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,5 ml/I +TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 LCCA tiene unos colores espectaculares con tonos morados 😍 Subo el CalMag a 0,5 ml/L porque BPPA no se recupera, y el resto muestran inicio de deficiencia Día 50 (12/06) Está lloviendo mucho por aquí. Menos mal que tengo el techo de policarbonato en mi invernadero casero. Hoy no necesitan riego Día 51 (13/06) Riego con 1 Litro H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + K-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,5 ml/I + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 52 (14/06) Riego con 1 Litro H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,5 ml/I + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Tiene un aspecto espectacular, con su cogollo central muy muy gordo y con unos reflejos morados preciosos Me parece increible que esta planta pueda ser capaz de acabar en las 8 semanas (menos de 60 días). Voy a empezar a mirar sus tricomas con el microscopio Día 53 (15/06) Riego con 1 Litro H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + K-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,5 ml/I + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 En el microscopio se ven las antocianinas subiendo por los tricomas 😍 Día 54 (16/06) Riego con Té de Floración - 750 ml / planta 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

So outdoors are always so tricky in Illinois. This plant started in mid April when it was warm, then super cold with snow, followed by moderate weather, to be harvested a touch early due to high humidity, drought—followed by days of lots of rain. She suffered bud rot on a few sites and was harvested immediately after to save the rest of the plant. Super frosty, great terps and she survived it all! Literally! Smells like fruit and dough.

Trim jail was real on this one. Put a pillow behind the back and that really made life easier. Next time will be lollipopping this variety to make the process easier all around.

Final week before harvest. Pistils have turned brown all over on one plant, but not the other. Been trying to take close-ups of trichomes with phone, but can't tell if they are clear, milky or brown. Caved in and bought a hand-held microscope with light. Beautiful ❤️ just hard as heck to stay in focus doing hand held. Not sure if I should be clipping samples to look at on a flat surface. Stopped fertilizing and flushed the more mature plant last week. The other one is showing signs of ripeness now, so flushed it to early this week.

Привет садоводы вегетация продолжается еще 1-2 недели и можно ее переводить на цветение день 42 и я перевел время на цветение

Remove two big fan leaves blocking bud sites below it, added some LST clips to encourage branches to grow outwards a but more. Still can't get rid of the stupid downward curling leaf tips, had it since about week 2 veg I only water when soil is completely dry as you can see from time lapse videos. I have the lights exactly where they’re supposed to be and actually have them turned down a bit more than where they’re supposed to be according to my PAR meter. I guess I’ll just ride it out this way till the end and see how she goes, might increase light intensity another notch later on in the flowering stage, we’ll see. I'm averaging about 625-675 ppfd from top of the plant. I use filtered tap water through a Berkey gravity filter that removes all fluorides and other unwanted chemicals and with the Advanced Nutrients mix it balances out the PH to around 6.0-6.1 every single time, these next few waterings I'll only use plain filtered water PH to 6.0 and see if maybe its a Nitrogen toxicity which is what I suspect is causing the curling and deep dark green color.

day 73 I was not ready for all this! 🤣🤣 they literally exploded and I started seeing purple on these buds I had to tie them up so the weight of the flowers didn't break the branches. compared to El Patron that I also have in my tent, Purple is much fatter and shorter. they have a very sweet scent and I can't wait to taste it, but alas I will go there a little longer. I have to say that 6 photoperiods are too many for my 1m x 1m x 2m tent. in addition to this I have noticed that they are very hungry. like me and give me some advice. thanks for stopping by, have a nice day and happy cultivation

Plant #1 (bushy, lanky pheno, skinny buds absolutely COVERED in trichs) Harvested at 56 days or exactly 8 weeks from 12/12 flip. Had a good 75-80% cloudy, 10% amber, and a few clear trichs. Dried at 48-59% RH, 3 days hanging/ rack drying and was dry enough for me to put into jars (few hours open, few hours closed) early tester smoke was phenomenal! Super heady high, lasted a good 2-3 hours for me and I am an all day dab and flower smoker! That's saying something to me! I cant wait to smoke her once it cures a bit more, super excited! Smell is not too overpowering, smells very floral and earthy, complete opposite of plant #2 (garlic-y, funky, cookie heavy smell 🤤👅 Total weights; Plant #1- 66.2g Plant #2- 65g

Really good genetics.A sativa strain that can handle so much cold enviroment and produce so many flowers in 6L pot!😃😁😌

Week 15 Added another Biotab attached to a wire so in case the plant gets too much Nitrogen I can pull it out. 😎

Alien Sparkle full circle.

WEEK 6 This week I transplanted the plant into a 25 L pot with Allmix as planned. Now I’ll let the 16 shoots grow a bit more before I start with the SCROG. Temperatures are very high at the moment, and before repotting the nutrients had already become a bit low. I fed with Grow fertilizer once more beforehand, though I could have started a little earlier.Other than that, I’m very satisfied. The plant has developed nicely and symmetrically, providing a great foundation for the flowering phase. PPFD: 450µmol/m²/s Water: 1x water, 1x nutrient solution