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Here comes the first Preflower Update

2/04 Very nice strain by Weed seed shop, first time 100% indoor. Growed Fems and Autos outdoor from their bank few times in the past, and it was also nice. Loved the colours, very homogeneous plant. Manicure made just before the harvest I will weight flowers after drying, before curing and add infos and photos

Llegamos a la última semana antes de su cosecha, dejaremos 2 días últimos a plena oscuridad y cortaremos. Tiene un olor muy fuerte a limón, una gran creación de tricomas que envuelven toda la planta. Pronto sabremos sabores y efectos. En cuanto a cosecha a resultado una cepa que al principio nos tenia un poco decepcionado pero todo cambió en el ciclo de floración, cogollos bañados en azúcar y brillante como diamantes en general, casi para comérselo 💯

everything going as planned cant wait for week 2

Dette er min stolthed pt hun har nok ca6uger igen hun bliver mere og mere fyldt med buds og masser af fimre hår!mit nye opset er det bedste jeg har gjort for mig selv og mine piger elsker det;) så keep on growing

Well going good so far. Kinda thought I had zinc lockout due to adding too much ph down (phosphorous) to the res rising every other day to 6.5ish. I have a bubbler and a water pump running in there. Gave them a flush of 2l each PhD water with calmag. Looking a bit better hopefully fixes soon

- Humidity was low beginning of the week and the temperature was quite high. But, I still managed to hit the ideal values. Towards the end of the week, the average humidity in my city was at the high 70s which reflected into the tent. - VPD fluctuated this week between 1,0 and 1.65 kPa, averaging at 1,42 kPa. - Tent temperature fluctuated around 24 at night and 28 Celsius at day time, averaging at 25.5. - Humidity did not fluctuate as it used to beginning of the week but it spiked crazy towards the end, averaging at 56.4 which is much better than the last week. - I am now giving standard 6.4 Ph Water. - Frosting slowed down but the flowers are getting bigger. - Stickiness and smell keep getting stronger.

anche questa creamzilla inizia a gonfiare i suoi bei fiorelloni... Certo che anche io e advanced nutrientes facciamo la nostra parte per fare di che escano questi bellissimi fiori, terapeutici🙏💪

The buds are just perfect!🔥🔥

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!!

Its beginning to be realy interesting out here ! the two on the back are like twin sisters, and the other one is more short. Its realy hard to take pictures now, so i try to take at least one video at the end of every weeks. feeded them with 1ml biogrow/biobloom/topmax /L see ya !

como decia antes voy subir todo q tengo desde entones solo rege con agua nada mas. el resto lo dice la planta por si sola, todo fue una locura la humedad demasiado alta, las lluvias y el invierno q estaba ya encima complicaba las cosas. pero al final todo resulto con los resultados esperados

What time is left till harvest?

My first flowering week started. I removed some larger Leaves but not too much, just so more light will get to the right spots. Still more has to be removed in the upcoming weeks, but i will do it step by step. The plants really get sticky now and smell much more. They didn't stretch much by now, sure they grew up but not really more then the week before, guess stretch will happen next week then. RG #2 really hangs behind but i thought this would happen, in worst case i just put another pot under it so it will be on the same level, just like with Special Queen #1, but i still hope it will catch up in 1-2 weeks. Im so scared of hermies, i hope everything will go well. See you next week :)

Vamos familia, actualizamos la primera semana de floración de estas Terp & Tonic de Seedstockers. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-26 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. Esta semana cambiamos a 12 horas luz,12 horas de oscuridad, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también, el color es verde sano. Se nota que los nutrientes de la marca Agrobeta hacen sus funciones. También realicé una poda de bajos que yo si las veo necesarias para explotar después la flor. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Hello everybody 👋🏻 today full moon 🌕. I put the seed in a tupper on top of the router where it gives a good temperature😊. I will put the led at half power (400W) during vegetation and at full power (800W) in flowering Royal Dwarf This variety, which removes the genetics of the first autoflowering plants, is reaffirmed in the sector as a plant of the most interesting. Dwarft genetics comes from the crossing of 2 very specific indications that transmit its main characteristics. RQS crossed a Dwarft with a feminized Skunk to obtain the Royal Dwarft. Finally, he crossed the result with his autoflowering predecessor to stabilize this characteristic. With a maximum height of around 50 cm, and a little branched structure, it becomes a compact and vigorous plant, perfect to cultivate in small spaces, discreetly. With a maximum production of 40g per plant, and notorious for being the most productive genetics of Royal Queen Seeds, it will be a variety of the pleasure of the most impatient growers, being able to achieve an interesting harvest volume without having to wait for a whole harvest cycle . We are talking about a marijuana genetics with a sweet but aromatic taste, and really strong in intensity. The taste picks up the bottom of the Dwarft part, but with the nuances of the Skunk marijuana variety. As for the effect, we will obtain the mental clarity and the socializing effect of the Skunk with a pleasant physical effect coming from the indica part. Of moderate power, it seems a boil recommended for day to day. THC: 13% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 150 - 200 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 30 - 80 gr/plant Height Indoor: 40 - 70 cm Height Outdoor: 50 - 90 cm Flowering time: 6 - 7 weeks Harvest Month: 8-9 weeks after sprouting Genetic Background: Skunk x Ruderalis Type: Sativa 60% Indica 10% Ruderalis 30% Effect: A motivating and inspiring feeling Flavor: Citrus, Sweet Climate: Cold Bio Tabs Now fertilizing your plants will be much easier; we only have to add the Bio Tabs and the other components that are included directly in the pot when we plant, and the rest of the crop will only add water to our pots. In the middle of the crop you have to apply an irrigation with Orgratrex and Bactrex to reinforce the biological activity and that's it. We will have plants as always, the most productive and tasty, totally organic and without having to worry about excess nutrients or fertilize them. Dosage and how to use the Starter Pack of Bio Tabs step by step: Fill our pots to about 3/4 and add 3g of Mycotrex for each pot, no matter the size. More or less are 3 tablespoons of coffee rasas. Then we add another 25g of Startrex (which comes to be 2 tablespoons) every 5L of soil, so if we have 10L of pot then 50g and so progressively. We stir well to mix with our substrate and just fill the pot of earth. Then we make the hole to transplant our plant to the final pot, and in that hole you have to throw another 2g of MycoTrex into the hole itself and we can now transplant our plants. Then we have to add your Bio Tabs tablets, every 5L of earth a tablet on the substrate, if we have 10L then two tablets ... You have to bury them closer to the edge of the pot than in the center. They are buried about 5 cm deep in the substrate and we will have our plants fertilized for weeks. We make a mixture with the last component that remains when we plant, Bactrex. Add 1g to a liter of water and give the first watering with that mixture. From now on, you only have to water with water until the 5th week. At the 5th week, we will have to contribute a new help to our plants, we will add 20ml of Orgatrex and 1g of Bactrex in 500ml of water and stir well. Water only with that half a liter a plant and only once. Add water until the end of the crop, that's that easy.😋👏🏻👏🏻 Biobizz light mix With Light Mix of BioBizz we will be 100% sure of having bought one of the best lands available for your seeds. Saving on the ground is one of the worst mistakes we can make, since we are starting a job that the final result is to seek the highest quality and production. To think that is where the plant will have to live all its days of life so it will have to be of the best possible quality. With Light Mix you will have an excellent substrate, as each land has a different formula and composition, we will find out who will best resist this substrate, according to the climatic conditions where we are going to plant. It is characterized by its high proportion of water / oxygen retention, this soil pulls more towards water retention so it will be perfect for all those who live in warmer areas avoiding having to water the pots so often, it retains a lot of humidity. We will have to be careful with the first days of our plants so as not to soil the land too much, otherwise the roots will not shoot as they should and you could even drown your plants, this advice is worth all the autoflowering genetics that are more sensitive to root problems and excess irrigation. This sack of earth comes very light of nutrients, so this substrate should provide practically nutrients in all phases of the crop from the second week. Composition: Peat moss Perlite Ec: 1.2 Ph: 6.2