1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Second week of flower and I defoliated again. There are small bud sites starting to form at the end of week two flower. The apple fritter has fascination which is making the stems grow interestingly with lots of bud sites.

Ayeeee this Diamond Belle is doing great! Ive been trying to find balance within touch sun light and not enough lol. I don't want to push her too hard in full sun all day. How ever she has been doing good these last few days outside. I'll keep her in shade every once in a while giving her a break. Ive gotten her on a good nutrient schedule. Ive also been adding sugar to my water when I'm watering just water. So it's sugar water. But ill be feeding every 3 days. With the Bloom booster and sugar. I go light. Cause light is more ✨️ 😌 Let's see how she does. Thankful. Get chu some beans @ beanpatchseeds.

I finally broke a pound with a single autoflower! Couldn’t have done it without AGLEX cob led’s, Remo Nutrients, and coco coir. They’ve changed my game completely! This grow started off as a pretty standard grow. I did absolutely no training until the veg period was winding down, and pre-flower was beginning. As the SCROG net went in, a little later than planned, numb fingers due to cervical spinal issues, and a poorly time muscle spasm, I snapped the main stalk...disaster right? Apparently not! They’re tough plants! Within a day or so she was perked up and sending up new colas from all the growth nodes now exposed to the 2000w AGLEX cob led’s. These lights have transformed my grow process, and increased my yields by over 300% compared to my old led’s, and only draws 408w from the wall. 1.23g/w is quite satisfactory I didn’t have much tucking to do this grow after the original SCROG. Due to the fact I was a little late getting the SCROG net in place, she didn’t have too much stretch left in her, she certainly fattened up quite nicely though, almost too much so in places. The front left side of the SCROG net got awfully crowded with huge buds packed tightly together. Lesson learned...keep the branches spaced apart slightly further, and maybe allow slightly more vertical growth of the colas to allow slightly better light, and air flow penetration. My issue is I only have 6 foot ceilings in my tents. The ceiling in my grow room is only a little over 6’2”. I managed, through SCROG techniques, without topping or fimming, to keep the top of my canopy 24” from the floor. This allows plenty of space above for the AGLEX cob, and exhaust fan. After last feeding I flushed with just Ph’ed water for 5 days, then gave the plant 48 hours of darkness, to rid itself of chlorophyll before harvesting on November 4th and hanging in a drying rack. It’s still curing in jars but after trying a few samples, it’s an awesome strain, and hits hard. It’s not as hard as it sounds to fill a 4x4 tent with a single autoflower, and still pull 18 ounces (504g) out of that tent. With simple SCROG technique, defoliation, quality grow medium you can achieve the same results. Of course you’ll need an AGLEX 2000w cob, but for an 18 ounce return on a $300CAD light, in 3 months, it’s a no brainer folks! You won’t find a better light under $300 Canadian. You’ll also need a quality nutrient line, and it’s hard to go wrong with the Remo Supercharged Kit. The proof of those 2 products quality are in my harvest. I hope this has helped improve your own grows somehow :) Head over to YouTube and visit my channel, just search for Scrog Freak, or click the link below. Drop a like and subscribe, more videos and logs to come! Recently entered a Gelato OG Grow Off and will be posting updates and instructional videos there. Check it out! Thanks and good growing! ScrogFreak https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDFY6EjqIMqv2peq1d1eM1Q

First week went without any major issues. Plants been growing fine and you can see there is 4 steams on this plant that are growing a bit taller then the rest. The SE-3000 is running at 100% rite now and with the PPM set too 1000 for the Co2 it's getting lots of light and growth. Temperature and humidity have been stable for the most part. Was having g issues with my dehumidifier tho for a few days. I believe it was over heating a bit and was auto shutting off. So the my humidity would spike up to 75-80% but luckily it was during lights off and I was home when it happened. After moving a few things around and turning it off for a hour it seems to have corrected itself. Good caz I don't really want to have to buy a new one yet lol. For my nutrients I'm slowly bring it up. By the end of week 2 I should have it closer to 1000 ppm. I also stopped using airstones in my tank because I was having a few issues. Now I'm just using a water pump on a timer. Turns off when lights turn on and the back on a hour before the turn off. I've got most of my fans now running at 100%. Only ones that are still only running at 50% are my two lower section fans. With them set to that I find the temperature and humidity at all 4 corners of the room are close enough that I should have zero issues. Well that's all for now so keep growing everyone!!!

. FIRST DAYS ------------- This week is off to a good start; the girls are growing up to 35 cm, the pistils are developing, and there are no abnormalities to report. I waited a little too long before starting the CalMag (I live in the countryside, so I have to order everything online...), which resulted in a few yellow and brown spots on some leaves at the end of last week, but the deficiency has already been contained. I removed the “bandage” from the injured plant; it has healed perfectly. The plant affected by an infection has recovered well: the two branches trained to replace the main branches have grown well. They will undoubtedly each bear a respectable bud. One of the scars curiously resembles a half-lion, half-gorilla face: I see this as a sign of robustness😊 Finally, there is no doubt: all the girls are indeed girls, with no signs of hermaphroditism. Honestly, Fastbuds' White Widows are very resilient! 💪 MIDWEEK ----------- 7cm more in half a week; 2cm per day, good cruising speed Nothing to do today, they are recovering from lollipopping without any problems, they seem to appreciate the watering schedule, as well as the temperature and humidity. I can only watch them grow and resist the urge to manipulate them 😉 Oh, and one thing: frost is coming. 😍

Trying to dial their veg in. Nutes may be too old or too high. Changed with 4ml CaMg per gallon of RO water. The rest is MaxiGrow. Ever since adding rockwool to the grow, I have struggled. I don't have the dry back timed right yet. I moved my fan to dry the top of the pot surface instead of in the root zone or at the canopy height. After about 10 days I dumped out the rockwool and have replaced with hydroton. My initial though on using rockwool was to give the roots more space during late life stages. My experience has been with hydroton and I notice that the roots eventually get bound because the hydroton is a durable material and will not crush or compact. Rockwool on the other hand will compress when squeezed so I was hoping that in the late life stages the roots would compress the rockwool and make more room in the pots. The issue was dryback. If I used chunks instead of croutons, this may help but the other reason I used them was because I had them here already. If anyone is trying to slow their dryback down, they should consider adding 10% volume of croutons to hold moisture in the medium a bit longer. Notice anything different? They are starting to adapt to their new media. Hopefully by next week I can get them to perk up. One plant has looked better than the other three. I have no idea what these plants need to “perk up”. Possibly a different grower. If a grape terpine wasn’t in the end results I would have culled these long ago. Hopefully they perk up when we get to flower. 3 look ,,,, meh, the fourth is descent. Trimmed all four back down to 12” tall. Flower next week.

She is not at big as the others I have grown. A very slow start. Very Very frosty and sticky. Beefing up

Day Zero: Seeds from FASTBUDS. Cotton pads washed with purchased water, moistened with the same water. I immersed two seeds in each cotton pad. In an ordinary plastic bag, put the discs and inflated with air. The first day: 24 hours passed, the seeds showed white roots, left in the bag in its original state for another day.

This strain was an absolute gem to grow. Had no issues along the way and probably my biggest yield to date.

Que hay familia, vamos con la tercera semana de vida de estas Candy Rain de Zamnesia, para el concurso POWER BUDS Plagron x Zamnesia CONTEST. Vaya color que se están marcando, se ven bien sanas. Esta vez regué con una aplicación de Sugar Royal, 0.8 ml x litro de agua y power bud 0.5 ml x litro, por supuesto controlando siempre el Ph, que ahora mismo lo dejamos en 6. Eche unas gotas de flash root esta semana también ya que les realice el transpoante a su maceta definitiva, 7 litros. E practicado una apical a 1 de 5 porque en el armario pondré 4 y como me sobra una pues la dejaré en otro indoor, aún así subiré fotos igualmente. Hasta aquí es todo, la tercera semana de crecimiento superada, iremos viendo cómo progresan. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Hasta aquí todo, justo ayer la cuenta cumplió 4 años nos echamos unos buenos porros a salud de todos, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Week 2 transplanted from solo cups to 5 gal pots an 1 into 7 gal grow bag. Plants had good healthy roots in solo cups..plants keep growing vigorously from the start!!!

Flushing begins for the Og kush and blueberry. All three plants are incredibly sticky, stanky, dense and heavy! The OG Kush plants are blowing my mind, I'm amazed at how much they have fattened up the last week. The super lemon haze starts week 7 and is also sticky and stanky, she's also starting to pack on weight and density.

Time to take off a few fan leafs. Most plants are 5-7 weeks old. (Start of week 7). 2TD just popping their heads up. 2 - LZ, 2 - CJ and 1 D are 2 weeks old. Hate to spread it all but but just made a big move into a new home... the older plants were stressed to much in the first few weeks and it shows in their size. I have higher hopes for the new plants and they are looking on point for sure. Love organic weed!!!

amazing smoke.- RECOMMENDED

Diese Woche haben die Ladys einen schönen Wachstums Schub bekommen , sowie ihre ersten schönen Gesichter angefangen zu zeigen, Habe noch einmal schon entlaubt und 2 scrog artige Netze installiert um die gesamte Fläche zu nutzen. Frisches Futter gab es auch und sie entwickeln sich einfach wundervoll . Wünsche euch eine wundervolle Woche growdiary Community

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2311 Well growmies we are at 35 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉So the low stress training been going well 👈 We got some major flowering already 👌 let the stretch begin 💪she's the top of of the lot 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D36/V32 - 21/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL in her new home and one TL of LST job ______________ 📅 D37/V33 - 22/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 5.4 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video and one TL of LST job ______________ 📅 D38/B01 - 23/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 As I saw clear signs of blooming, I need to pass to bloom phase so I put B01, in the header. 🚀 Clearly she's starting flowering 🎬 1 TL video and 1 LST video ______________ 📅 D39/B02 - 24/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video and 1 LST video ______________ 📅 D40/B03 - 25/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.2 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 15L 🍗 💧 💼 Flush for two days and then flowering nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D41/B04 - 26/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.2 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Flush for two days and then flowering nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D42/B05- 27/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 15L 🍗 Calmag - Bloom A-B - Bud Candy - B52 - Big Bud - Seaweed 💧 💼 👉👉👉 Changed res and added nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video