Day 80 This morning I started defoliating Tropicana. She will be in the darkness for the next days. I already harvested a part of the head flower and let it dry trimmed. Because of extreme weather conditions and very high humidity I got a little bud rott. I found it out quit early I think. So I hope nothing will not happen any more. Just harvesting relaxed and drink a Tropicana tee. Day 81 I decided to cut her down in the evening. The humidity in the basement room is high and I don‘t want to risk here anything anymore. Waiting for my first homegrown weed to be vaped. Day 82 Tropicanas flowers hanging to dry in my basement. I check them once per day with a strong light. Day 83 Same same. The smell is wonderful like a bit of gas combined with a fruity flower bouquet. Our neighbors in the house like the smell, too. 🙏 Day 84 I could try my first homegrown weed. It‘s absolutely tasty and have a very smooth vape. I was very surprised cause it‘s not cured yet. A longer vape report will follow when it‘s dried and cured. Day 88 All flowers, sugar- and tee leafs are trimmed and filled in glasses for curing. I open twice per day for 20 minutes. Boveda packs 58% inside. I will fill out the rest of the diarie when my buds are dried, cured and vaped. So far this was a very exciting journey for me. Growing cannabis and even legal on our balcony. Feels still a bit unreal, but it’s real! Thank you for reading my diary! Thanks to all the people who worked on legalizing cannabis in Germany, especially to the „Deutscher Hanfverband (DHV)“! I will give more updates and write a vape report after curing several weeks. Maybe with some Tropicana Cookies baked in Comfreys garden kitchen.

These week we see a big bud evolution, they're strong and healthy, i can not wait to tryout more strains from SweetseedS. The p.p.m is also a little more higher than the last week because we add 2 ml. Of biobizz biobloom on our weekly feeding and all ready for the 3 week of flowers

10. week. Hopefully less than 4 to go. Grow continues to run smoothly as before. The only point that is stressful is the humidity some times but mostly only after watering and since I’m watching them plants every 2 hours anyway the build isn’t that large. I just needed to understand that these plants will increase their transpiration towards midday and then decline again. So when I see 60% at lunch I don’t have to panic as much. Ryu started to smell strongly when touching him but the smell when opening the tent is still moderate. However I’m looking forward to a very nice and efficient harvest.

Poop

Tito's Living Soil Blueprint: Why You Can’t Treat Organics Like a Synthetic Hydro System. When transitioning from synthetic hydroponics to true organic cultivation, many growers bring their old habits with them. It is a common pitfall: pulling out pH pens, measuring runoff, and liquid-feeding heavy doses of organic nutrients as if the medium were sterile coco or rockwool. But living soil operates on an entirely different set of rules. To achieve the true potential of an organic garden, we must stop treating the soil as a mere holding tank for liquid chemicals and start viewing it as a self-sustaining biological engine. This will be a breakdown of why treating organic soil like a synthetic system fails, and how to shift ones methodology to unlock the true power of the soil food web. Pouring massive amounts of raw elements into a living system all at once is the biological equivalent of force-feeding a newborn a massive takeout meal and expecting them to digest it instantly. In an optimal system, soil should never be breaking down more than roughly 5% of its total composition as organic matter at any given time. The math is simple: more intense chemical and biological reactions equal more physical heat. If the root zone temperature creeps even remotely over 72°F, oxygen hypoxia sets in, drastically reducing plant growth. Organic rhizospheres and biological nutrient delivery require significantly more oxygen to maintain efficient parameters for growth—a reality that is drastically different from a pure synthetic approach where a complex rhizosphere is virtually non-existent. The fundamental blueprint of organic growing relies on Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). The goal is to build a medium with so much CEC that it can store massive amounts of excess nutrients safely. This provides the necessary buffering capacity to handle large biological reactions, a process typically managed in the time period between grows. Once the soil is fully loaded and stabilized, the rhizosphere maintains its own pH balance, allowing the plant to dynamically feed itself directly from its massive, built-in storage of CEC. Treating Living Soil Like Coco creates a runoff-runaway trap. Applying a massive overdose of raw organic materials releases too many nutrients at once, leading to completely uncontrolled pH skewing. Running a synthetic-style management setup while simultaneously dumping organic inputs into the container does not make it an "organic" grow. Trying to judge a metric like pH after letting it run completely out of control with multiple simultaneous amendments is an uphill battle. Each input possesses unique chemical properties that drastically alter atomic decay chains and, consequently, pH. Without an adequate structural buffer, the medium experiences unpredictable swings. Put simply, the sheer volume of inputs rapidly outpaces the soil's built-in buffering capacity. Constantly reading the pH and Electrical Conductivity (EC) of input and output water in an organic soil is not true organic cultivation; it is just a synthetic indoor environment layout utilizing organic ingredients. This presents a distinct misunderstanding of how these two opposing approaches need to be separated. One cannot simply measure EC and pH to heavy runoff in a soil designed to store cations and expect to keep accurate tabs. Even when using 100% organic certified ingredients, liquid feeds, and compost teas, the underlying methodology matters most. Measuring runoff pH and EC treats an organic soil system like a synthetic coco or rockwool grow. In a high-CEC organic soil, a runoff reading is highly inaccurate. A soaring runoff reading of 8.0 is often just the water physically washing past raw amendments on its way out of the pot. It does not mean the actual root interface is locked out; it simply indicates that the soil ran out of immediate storage capacity for those heavy inputs. Synthetic growing relies entirely on direct nutrient delivery. Chemical salts are poured over the root system, the plant absorbs what it needs through basic osmotic pressure, and the excess is flushed away. True organic growing, however, relies on biological cycling. An organic soil should never be watered to heavy runoff, because doing so actively washes away the beneficial microbes, soluble humic acids, and organic buffers that the soil life works so hard to create to protect the root zone. Applying inputs as an immediate, massive overload of raw elements causes chaotic chemical spikes. Dumping heavy amendments directly into a big pot mid-grow triggers unpredictable reactions. In a true living soil system, amendments are added in tiny, balanced amounts long before the plant ever meets the dirt. This deliberate timeline allows the soil’s Cation Exchange Capacity to naturally "park" and buffer those nutrients. When inputs outpace the soil's ability to buffer them, the system breaks down, and the runoff pH screams. When faced with a fluctuating pH meter, a common reactive impulse is to throw agricultural sulfur at the problem. This is a classic example of trying to react mechanically to a digital number rather than letting the soil chemistry work. Elemental sulfur does not lower pH on contact. Soil microbes must first digest it and convert it into sulfuric acid. Because this biological process takes weeks or even months, adding it mid-problem yields no immediate change. This leads to the temptation to add even more. Weeks down the line, the cumulative sulfur will finally convert, causing the pH to crash violently and fry the root system. As a general rule, avoid using sulfur as a corrective knee-jerk reaction. If it is used at all, it should be applied strictly 2 to 3 weeks prior to flower as a precise, one-off addition to assist with Isopentenyl pyrophosphate synthesis. If a soil matrix is truly experiencing a severe alkaline lockout at a pH of 8.0, the new leaves at the very top of the plant will tell you directly by turning bright yellow while the veins stay dark green—the classic signature of alkaline drift and iron chlorosis. The solution is simple: put the pH meter away. Stop watering to heavy runoff. Only apply enough water to evenly moisten the soil matrix, and let natural inputs do their job to feed the microbes and naturally buffer the root zone. Electrical Conductivity (EC) dictates plant water and nutrient availability by altering the soil solution's osmotic potential. This potential controls whether a plant can efficiently pull water into its roots or if it will actually lose water to the surrounding soil. If a grower cannot control the rate of what is going in (the rate of nutrient release) and cannot control the rate of what is going out (the plant's dynamic growth), the immediate medium's EC deviates. When EC deviates, osmotic potential goes with it, disrupting bulk flow and the entire vascular transport system of the plant. Synthetic nutrient delivery relies on precise input measurements and an incredibly tight management of the wet-dry cycle to prevent the constant, violent spiking of EC caused by excess moisture loss. Reducing EC to a mere measurement of "food in and food out" oversimplifies its true function. It acts as a balance of electrical conductance that must be maintained to regulate the flow of water. Failing to acknowledge this is a severe disservice to the beauty and potential of a true rhizophagy cycle in all its respiratory glory. True organic cultivation does not actually begin until biological cycling is actively linked to hydrogen exudation from the roots. The vast majority of modern cultivation advice leaves growers completely in the dark regarding these biological mechanics. This is a product of market capitalism rather than basic chemistry. There are significantly lower profit margins for hydroponic companies when a grower uses ten times fewer mass consumables and relies on little more than water from seed to harvest. By shifting focus away from "feeding the straw" and moving it toward nurturing the near-infinite soil food web, the plant regains absolute autonomy over its own rhizophagy cycle. It begins regulating its own nutrient intake dynamically, without a single digital EC pen in sight. This allows the grower to focus entirely on optimizing the macro-environment rather than micromanaging the root zone. The cultivation medium can be reused indefinitely so long as you can prevent a buildup of carbon and nitrogen in the soil; cover that in a later week. To achieve a truly organic system that unlocks this rhizophagy cycle, the cultivation approach must shift entirely from feeding the plant directly to feeding the soil microbiome. Because the modern gardening community is heavily guided by synthetic methodologies, the subtle nuances and variations of this biological process are rarely highlighted. The hydroponic industry is fundamentally built on a recurring revenue model of bottled minerals, flush agents, and sterile mediums. Conversely, a self-sustaining living soil system requires minimal external inputs after its initial build. This shifts the grower's role from a rigid chemical manager to a biological custodian. Because managing biology requires observing subtle environmental factors—like consistent soil moisture, oxygenation, and temperature—rather than reading a digital screen, commercial entities scaled for automated, synthetic delivery often dismiss it as unpredictable. When the soil food web is fully unlocked, the plant takes the driver's seat, operating with a level of systemic efficiency that synthetic nutrient lines simply cannot replicate. In the commercial cultivation landscape, corporate structures are legally bound to protect shareholder interests and recurring profit margins, which often prioritize the sale of bottled consumables over the promotion of self-sustaining agricultural practices. Under modern industrial cultivation models, biology is too often treated as secondary to business. By stepping away from the meters, understanding Cation Exchange Capacity, and feeding the microbiome instead of the roots, you break free from the chemical cycle—allowing nature to do what it has perfected over millions of years. "When I was a child, I spoke as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child; but when I became a man, I put away childish things"

Some of you may have wondered: Why do I use CO2 at average 950 ppfd μmol/m2/s (moral flow)? The answer is quite simple. Because of lack of space in some regions of my cultivation area, I simply cannot keep the ideal distance to my Sanlight high-performance lamp, due to some height growth of various strains. And so some of the main colas have ppfd values of 1250 μmol/m2/s and even more... So this is how I manage to achieve and compensate for such high radiation levels even with a CO 2 balance. And I have to say, my strategy to avoid various light stress symptoms works just fabulously. In combination with CO 2 implementation, my babies are simply unbeatably insensitive to light. Thats it! Beginning of 3rd week flowering: Again feeding my babies by 36 hours fermented potions of Bio Tabs Kompost Tea PK-Booster (15 g pro Liter) and added: 5ml Orgatrex/Liter 1 Spoon of Bactrex 1 Spoon of Mycotrex 1 Spoon of Mycco-Vital 1 Spoon of Dynomyco A little tip for those who are interested in small modifications that have a big difference or influence - on the result - effect - beauty - health - taste! Before adding microorganisms or beneficial bacteria or Mycorrizae and Trichodermas, please use oxygen-saturated water. On the one hand, unwanted chlorine gases evaporate and the small world of the microbiome becomes even faster and more rewarding in compost tea to sprout. Last but not least for this week, I would like to introduce my reasons, why I prefer growing biologically and sustainably. First of all, it’s something which suits very well in these times/days we are living now. Sustainability is a big need and task for our planet. 🌎 Nature means life. Our home, the air we breathe and everything that surrounds us. Not just today. Hopefully tomorrow as well. Maybe I'm starting to protect our environment on a small scale, but maybe I can also make a big difference at all. If you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change... I thought about what’s the difference, between Mineral Feeding and Super Soil Feeding. It’s very easy. Biologically Growing is a similar process than the natural soil activities out there in the lap of nature’s. So plants has to work and interact with the microorganisms and microbiomic communities in the soil. So the plants will never get lazy like the lazy ones of mineral feeding growers. If you grow biologically, you will feed the soil first and the microorganisms will support every parameter next to your plant conditions. And that will generate an unbelievable spectrum of Terpenes and Trichomes you will never forget. It’s the same comparison, when you daily visit McDonalds and you eat only fast food. How does your body and mind react on this shit for money?!?! May I invite you to think about it… See you next week dear Growmies! Have a nice Weekend and take care… Peace out! Addendum for Day 53: At the moment we unfortunately have another winter onset here in Germany. This means that I am forced to take additional heating measures due to structural facts in order to be able to keep the temperatures constant. After all, just tonight the thermometer climbs again to -1 degree Celsius. In addition, my exhaust air system runs out of my bedroom terrace and I therefore grow winter and summer with the patio door open. Well, sometimes I experience real weather-related challenges. But all in all, no problem... "Where there's a will, there's a way." Addendum to pouring out the fermented PK tea: I always administer half a liter of lukewarm aerated water with 3.5 ml of cannazyme per liter to each plant. This means that the "root machine" is not supplied with supplies unprepared and the nutrient solution can thus also be better distributed in the soil. Since I also work with cloth shoes, I spray them evenly moistened everywhere with water that is also warm before pouring them out from the outside. This has the advantage that the moisture stays where it should: in the pot! ... I did the math today ;-) We are still in week 7 until this Friday. And week 8 starts on Friday! OMG... still so much time yeahh! Today my Fast Buds Sour Jealousy and Sweet Seeds Big Devil and Dark Devil Automatics arrived. I'm looking forward to it. This time Fast Buds next Time Sweet Seeds. Love them too. Very beautiful genetics. Today a review video of the beginning of week 3. At the time of the pictures, I had minor signs of nitrogen excess. (Light peaks first at the crown of the roof and then slightly continuing to the middle section.) I then painstakingly racked my brains as to why this could be. I found that very slight dry spots had formed and therefore the root found small accumulations of nitrogen that caused its problems. But then, when I carefully homogeneously checked the moisture content in the substrate, the problem evaporated again. However, they had not shown any loss of growth rate during this time. Nevertheless, they developed as expected. They Strawnanas had no problem with that. In the end, I always have a hard time killing them. But I guess that's the way things go. We live and die. We come and go. But it's not there yet. ;-) Tomorrow is day 56. Tomorrow’s updating day! Can't wait to see their progress. Have a good time and see you tomorrow… 🏽🕊️ 🏽 ☮️🕊️

Buds evolving greatly , put in first P/K boost this week Buds are full of resin, real frosty, must be from UVA...last grow with same strain had much less resin at the same time and same conditions First signs of leafburn due to UVA, but only on 1 leaf so far...will keep the 5h / day

Nothing to report this week. Plants are growing on in the greenhouse as I wait for some extra supplies before setting them up inside. I hve to do this before they outgrow their pots but that still gives me a little while. There is one Frankenstein seedling that seems to have no ‘center’ is the only way I can describe it really! I should probably pinch it out but I’m curious to see what will happen?! Anyone ever had this before? I have been growing a few years now and never saw this!

So I decided to do bi weekly foliar sprays with the Liquid seaweed on top of the weekly Silica foliar sprays. I can say that I am seeing amazing results the plants are growing from every which way and getting nice and lush. Just pray for some rain!

So far so good.. Plug it on, hoping she gets a growth spurt. Soon, the temperatures have been a little low, so I think they've just had a slow start all of them... But that is okay.We can stay in veg an extra week or 2... thank you everybody for checking it out.God bless and happy growing 🙏

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flowering day 15 since the time change to 12/12 h. Hi everyone 😀. This week there was a lot of stretch. The flowers begin to form and stretch the whole plant 👍. I actually wanted to remove the bottom shoots last week, but I won't do that until the next week. The tent was cleaned and all containers filled. Have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Bio Bizz Coco ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 .

A planta segue forte aflorou um pouco do overfert da última semana mas ela segue resiliente e engordando. 💪🏽

I found out by measuring the water going from the pot that I probably over fertilize the plant. My mistake Was to use some cheap guano from local shop to the pot directly and also full plan with shogun fertilizers. I find out it before leaves start necrosis and now the plant is on diet with 1,4 ec and i control the outcoming water every day to be sure that situation In pot is better. Colas still growing but it slows a bit and will do some impact on my yealds at the end for sure. I will learn from my mistakes ! You can seen on pictures some improves on vent system, keep growing guys! Keep improving 👌🏻🤩

Es ist soweit! Am Freitag habe ich die fünf Easy Buds nach knapp 11 1/2 Wochen abgeschnitten und geerntet. Leider musste ich feststellen, dass eine Pflanze ziemlich stark befallen war. Ich vermute eine Milbenart oder möglicherweise Fliegeneier. Unterhalb der Blätter waren etliche dunkelgelbe und dunkelbraune Eier, die man auf den ersten Blick kaum erkennen konnte. Bei genauerem Hinsehen sieht man jedoch, dass sich der Befall auf die ganze Pflanze ausgeweitet hatte. Glücklicherweise blieben die vier anderen Pflanzen verschont. Aus diesem Grund trockne ich die Pflanzen auch getrennt voneinander. Die befallene Pflanze wollte ich nicht direkt wegwerfen, sondern erstmal trocknen lassen. Im Nachhinein werde ich schauen, wie ich mögliche Schadensbegrenzung betreiben kann. Die vier gesunden Pflanzen werden in einem geschlossenen Zelt in einem Trocknungsbeutel getrocknet. Die befallene Pflanze habe ich in dem Folienzelt aufgehängt und mit einer Plane abgedeckt. Nach wenigen Tagen der Trocknung sieht soweit eigentlich alles gut aus. Die Eier scheinen nicht mehr zu schlüpfen, sondern fallen von der Blüte ab oder verschrumpeln zu Kompost. Ich hoffe, dass es dabei bleibt. Der Geruch hat sich nach dem Abschneiden deutlich verändert. Schon nach der kurzen Trocknungszeit kann ich einen intensiveren Geruch feststellen, der sich noch nicht so richtig beschreiben lässt. Die Blüten waren stark mit den sogenannten "Sugar Leaves" verwachsen, weshalb ich sie grob getrimmt habe, um sie zum Trocknen aufzuhängen. Nachdem die Blüten vollständig getrocknet sind, werde ich die Buds noch einmal einzeln trimmen und durch meine Trimm-Maschine von Vevor jagen. Der Ernteprozess hat zu zweit circa eine Stunde gedauert. Die Pflanzen waren zum Zeitpunkt der Ernte noch sehr gesund und kräftig. Die Verwurzelung war trotz des geschlossenen Topfes sehr gut. Die schönste Bud hat definitiv die zentrale Pflanze, Greta, ergeben. Nass hätte ich den Bud auf mindestens 12 g geschätzt. Ein Gesamtgewicht des nassen Pflanzenmaterials habe ich nicht ermittelt. Sobald alles trocken und fertig beschnitten ist, werde ich das Tagebuch um den trockenen Betrag ergänzen. Stand jetzt würde ich schätzen, dass der Ertrag aller Pflanzen bei circa 40-50 g liegt, was mich für meinen ersten Grow ziemlich zufrieden stellt, besonders in Anbetracht dieser wirklich sehr simplen Strain. Mehr Infos und Fotos folgen in Kürze, wenn das Curing beginnt. Bis bald! :)

------SETUP------ -HOMEBOX TRIANGLE+ .4sqm -BOSSLED LIGHTS 250W REAL -INTAKE FAN HIGH PRO - 107 m³/h -EXHAUST FAN PROFAN - 220 m³/h -TWO SMALL VENT FANS -HUMIDIFYER WHEN NEEDED -AC IN THE ROOM -15L SMARTPOTS -50%PERLITE 50%SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS ------STRAIN------ SEEDSMAN BLUEBERRY = SM BB. Blueberry was originally created by Canadian DJ Short and dates back to the 1970s. It is a 3-way indica-dominant hybrid cross of an Afghani strain together with Thai and a Purple Thai. When grown in good conditions it can grow into a fairly large plant displaying a range of red, purple and blue colours and producing very good yields. Another quality of Blueberry is that, although taking a while to cure out, when correctly prepared and packaged it has a very long shelf-life compared with many strains available today.. /BOUQUET Unsurprisingly when fully-cured Blueberry has an incredibly fruity perfume along with the unmistakable sweet flavour of blueberry. /EFFECTS The effect is a pot smokers dream - a very potent yet happy high which is very euphoric yet relaxing and enduring. ------GENERAL COMMENT------ The first 7 days of this grow is almost complete, Blueberry and the AK47 germinated fine, had some issues with the Candy Kush Express, so the last seed is germinating, and seams that it will emerge soon! I'm optimistic, so basically till now we will do a free seed run, since this ones came with the genetics I purchased from seedsman and gyo green. 😎😛 -251217 First feed with a very light nutrient dose. Will implement some cal mag next water. Humidity has been a little hard to control, is oscillating a lot. ------SM.BLUEBERRY COMMENT------ Development is ok, nothing overwhelming for now, lets see how things evolve. Still not convinced of the easy plugs, kind of hate them, direct soil seams more effective. 👍

small things put big things into perspective this week ... it sure feels longer than 7 days this baby plant week ... the new seedling is doing great, and with the new home I don't have to mess with it as much. i have to bring the light very close to the seedling to prevent stretching. unfortunately, the light directly above the seedling prevents me from really enjoying the growth visually and taking lots of pictures, still, the camera and timelapse helps. i think i should have started the seedling elsewhere then brought it to the pot when the roots were developed more, but it is safer here - even if it seems a little slow growing. i think the growth will sprout once the roots are directly exposed to the pressurized nutrients. it was fun dosing and using the diy doser, even though I had to prepare and dispose of a 50-gallon nutrient batch when I only really needed 2 gallons for the hpa garden. still, I can't measure things accurately manually so the plant(s) has a better chance this way. also, i get to run the doser commands manually, which is making me learn and understand better the challenges it will take to make multi-zone dosing reliably autonomous girlfriend and i are looking forward to a second week of grow

I've started this week with a heavier defoliation. Not sure it's worth it but I want to try it anyway, might as well make experience. I want to take a break from defoliation though, she's still my first plant so I really don't want to overstress or damage her. Pistils are getting bigger and I can't wait to see the bud! Watching carefully the flowers development as I've never seen that before. Hoping in some final stretch. End of the week: she stretched almost 10 cm in four days. I love this plant. I also rised the EC to 1.7. Still waiting before switching to Canna Flora nutrients. She's beautiful and bushy, I definitely need to slow down with those little frequent defoliations tho. Don't want to stunt her growth, especially now.

It's the 4th week! Stilling doing the mainlining, for some reason I found myself training the branches to form a bull horn shape, maybe I'll mount it on the wall after this first grow, lmao. I added more CalMag this week, as now I'm thinking the rust/brown spots and tips are from a Calcium deficiency since I am using distilled water. Time to watch these leaves, and if it continues to rust it might be the VPD. Nov 28th - pH 6.0, PPM 860, 1.7 EC, Temp 70f, Humidity 50% Nov 29th - pH 6.3 -> 5.8, PPM 860, 1.7 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 55% Nov 30th - pH 5.8, PPM 860, 1.7 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 60% Dec 1st - pH 5.9, PPM 860, 1.7 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 70% Dec 2nd - pH 5.5 -> 5.9, PPM 840, 1.7 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 60% Dec 3rd - pH 5.9, PPM 810, 1.6 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 70% Dec 4th - pH 5.7, PPM 790, 1.6 EC, Temp 80f, Humidity 70%