30.07.25 Day 70. She is looking good. Fat buds, frosty.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 23 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey everyone 😀. It gets more beautiful from week to week :-). The buds are starting to develop well. They also get thirstier and thirstier. Another 1 g of GHSC Bio Bloom per liter of coconut was added. Otherwise, the week was poured twice with 0.8 l each time and the tent was cleaned. Have fun with the update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://originalsensible.com/original-sensible-seeds-zkittlez~20503 Type: Zkittlez ☝️🏼 Genetics: Afghan Kush Indica x Grandaddy Purple x Grapefruit hybrid 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

14cm vertical growth this week. Flowering stretch reducing. Trichome production has started! She's starting to get frosty.

-- day 29 -- Started week 5 off with watering the plants. The nutrients from the soil are probably used by now so I'm adding a first small dose of Alga Grow. -- day 30 -- Its been 10 days since I changed the lights to 12/12. Switched the lights to full capacity with the bloom mode on. -- day 31 -- I'm already seeing the first signs of flowering today. Noticed first signs of light burn so raised the lights to 55 cm above canopy. -- day 32 -- Watered the plants with 2 ml/l alga grow + 2 ml/l bloom. -- day 34 -- I think I've been too cautious with nutrients. Plants are relatively light green colored. Not sure if I mentioned this before but I chose to schedule my lights so that they turn on at 22:00 and off at 10:00 in the morning. I did this because the room warms up with lights on and keeps the temperature up at night without any heating on to save energy. Only disadvantage; I can only look at my plants in the morning and late evening ;)

bloom, swell, with problems with salting. Lemon after 1-2 weeks on Harv, today I will start to rinse

GORRILA KING AUTO / KANNABIA WEEK #8 OVERALL WEEK #3 FLOWER This week she's doing good buds are getting bigger and looking great! No issues so far with this lady during this grow. Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you to KANNABIA!! Kannabia.com GORILLA KING

A really hot week last week, The lamp doesn’t make it any easier but steady at 28 degrees now. OG auto in its final days I think, leaves are starting to turn yellow so I’ve started a flush, it’s a beautiful plant, 80% of the plant is covered in bud, I’ll post some good pics before harvest. Not gonna be a crazy yield but for the size of the plant really decent. The feminized OG are all exploding with bud sites, amazing how fast it’s going the smell is getting better by the day Gorillas are cute! Flowering a little slower but a lot bushier and the leaves are sooooo pretty! Started to give more water and upping the dosage of nutes since I’ve not seen any signs of over feeding might as well try it out Okloveyoubye ❤️

Hey everyone First week of flowering here Plant is doing great Removed some starting popcornbuds and took away some mint and Lemon Balm. Was getting bushy down there 😂 Gave a last feeding with Alga Grow, next I will start up flowering nutrients. PH around 5,8. Will water in a bit higher next time. Sprayed her with Vita Race for one of the last times. Neem Oil doing his job too, no bugs to see 🙏 Weather is not that great. Not that much sun and cold nights. Lots of rain this week too and upcoming week no difference 😒... What a great summer huh haha So far so good See you guys next week Happy growing 😉🙏

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

The High intensity was to strong (clearly my fault) in the beginning which stunted her overall stretch, she however still delivered super dense, terpene and trichome loaded buds.

Comenzó la floración 👨‍🌾🏻🍀🙏

Days 74 - 80 (from seed) 4/15/24 - 4/21/24 Lamp distance: 13" @ 50% power (estimate PAR?) VPD: not checking - humidity set to 40% Feed schedule: feed schedule once a week, 1/4 gallon water per plant daily - FPE added at 2oz per gallon every third day IPM: visual inspection only Notes: Final push, fading occurring on all plants now and some amber starting to show during trichome inspection. Cookies & Berries taking the most time of the group to finish while Mango Sky crossed the finish line first. All four plants will be chopped next week on the morning after the full moon, April 24th - according to the moon gardening calendar it is "best time to pick medicinal herbs and plants, while flowers if cut during this time have an intense scent and endure longer." They're close to finished in my book so it can't hurt to follow the lunar suggestion.

#AutoBlueberry Total Dry Yield, DIY Dry Box, Full Garden Update and Smoke Sesh: Super Cropped with Low stress Training for Big Bushes and Bulbous Budz! Big Girls getting Flipped to Flower on 9-24-21 AutoBlueberry 14th w/ 9th W/ Flower breed by #DivineSeeds #DivineSeedsSquad #DivineSeedsBreedingCompany No 6th feed of #NukeHeads Nutrients #PlutoniumBloom this week, I Flushed her out for the last 5 days of her life w/ 2 gallons a day w/ some Cold Declorinated Tap water and Checked her Tricks every few days till she was Ready for Steady! Lol These Lush Ladies and those Awesomely Purple Budz with Trippy Trichomes Growing on! I made and/or converted one of my Budz into a Polyploid (Bigger and More Bulbous Bud) This AB is Flowering out and her Smells are Super Strong of Gasy and Candied Blueberries! I recently Trained down her branches to expose more Bud sites and Removed the Biggest fan leaves to expose the Bud site's to this Glorious #BloomPlusBP1500w #GrowStarQB1000w #OsreeQB1000w Full Spectrum Grow Lights! I've also Super Cropped, Topped um, Defoliated, Leaf tucked, and Implement the 3D's method like my Broski #TigerfishOrganics to remove the Dead, Dying and Diseased leaves! Origin:Afghani/Thai Type:50% Indica/ 40% Sativa/ 10% Ruderalis Flowering:56 days THC:22% Harvest:400-550 g/m2 Height:110-150 cm They were Growing under the #Growatt600w and in my #TopoLite 24×24×48 Grow Tent but I've Upgraded and Updated it to my #OsreeQB100W I'm also using #TNBNaturals #TheEnhancer Co2 Despersal Canister and using thier Ph⬆️⬇️ for my Decolinated Tap Water! Green and Growing Up Great! She's Growing into her 9th week of Flower! She's Growing in my special blend of ProMix potting mix, a 1/2 bag of Earthworm castings and 2 light handfuls of Diatomaceous Earth mixed Up well for before transplanted! Diatomaceous Earth: Diatomaceous earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Their skeletons are made of a natural substance called silica. WHAT IS DIATOMACEOUS EARTH? In a nutshell, DE comes from the fossilised remains of small marine organisms called diatoms. Over a 30 million year period, these hard-shelled algae collected on the bottom of bodies of water, eventually forming into a type of sedimentary rock. Fast forwarding, it wasn’t until around 1836 that a German peasant Peter Kasten discovered the ivory-coloured, powdery substance while drilling a well in northern Germany. Ever since, the usefulness of DE for multiple purposes, including industrial and horticultural applications, has been well-reported. Just sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on top of your soil and watch mother nature's secret weapon work its magic.CONDITIONS THE SOIL When it comes to growing cannabis, everyone strives to provide the best soil to grow the best plants—but there’s always a way to make it even better. Making the soil a better medium is called soil conditioning, which is exactly what diatomaceous earth does. It works by improving the retention of moisture in your potting soil, holding a large amount of fluid and drying at a rate that’s much slower. This natural soil additive also helps to retain nutrients and allows for better oxygenation of the substrate. NATURALLY CONTROLS PESTS DE is an all-natural, safe-to-use substance that doesn’t harm the cannabis plant with toxic chemicals. The nature of diatomaceous earth makes it useful against most types of insect infestation you might be experiencing; and unlike chemical insecticides, insects can’t develop a resistance to the effects of DE. So once they’re gone, they’re gone for good. DE is an abrasive. and when used as an insecticide, it gradually scrapes away an insect’s exoskeleton, absorbs the fluids, and dehydrates insects and other critters to eventual death. IMPROVES PLANT STABILITY When using DE in your soil, it can be especially beneficial as it frees up nutrients so that they are made available to the plants as needed. This works via the silica content of DE being absorbed into the plant tissue, which helps improve the plant’s ability to respond and receive more nutrients as DE activates. This in turn results in greater yields and better stability under small pH fluctuations! https://divineseeds.net/ https://instagram.com/divine.seeds?igshid=osxe2v7en33v https://divineseeds.net/ Thanks Again to All my Friends, Family's, Teams, Sponsors, Followers and Subscribers!!! Your Genetics are Merry Magnificent, Mega Marvelous and Mighty Medical! Love um!!! I really Can't stress enough how Thankful and Grateful I am of All of you and what you've Shared with Us! Means the World!!! It's definitely a Pleasure being able to Grow with these Phenomenal Grow Lights! Please Enjoy! BudBrothers4-Life! Cheers Famz!!! Much Props and Much Topz!💯🔥 #BloomPlus #Osree #GrowStar #Growatt #TNBNaturals #TNBTeam #GrowYourOwn #Bliss https://instagram.com/bloom.plus?utm_medium=copy_link https://instagram.com/growstarstore?utm_medium=copy_link https://instagram.com/osree.light?utm_medium=copy_link https://instagram.com/as420.ca?igshid=1f116alw054wp The Grow Bags: https://www.as420 https://instagram.com/tigerfish_organics?utm_medium=copy_link TN Tonny Dual headed Clip on Fan Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJH8CDT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_6E4BCKYN6HTAASNQDJSM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My Rainbow Melon plant is an absolute beast! It's definitely tied for the biggest plant in the tent, and it's by far the smelliest. The aroma is so strong and sweet, it's incredible. I can't wait to see how this one turns out! Okay, This past week has been absolutely fantastic! The weather has been incredible, and I've been able to keep the windows open almost the entire time. My plants are thriving in the humidity, and the VPD has been perfect. Everything just feels so balanced and in check.

Smelling sexy

Got these transplanted to the rain science 3 gal bags and moved to a 4x4 in the basement where it's a little better environment in terms of vpd. I had a full bag of roots organic soil so I decided to do a soil/coco blend like I did with the current autoflower crop. I also topped every single one of em mid week. Once I get the flower tent all cleaned out and everything I'll be throwing these in there for bloom. Hoping this will be an even better grow than the last since I have both my arms back. I'm doing the update a little early since I was late on it last week, today (tuesday 9.10.19) is day 43 from germination and about day 39 from full sprout. Before this week they were under only about 185w in a 4x4 area so it's been slow growth so far. These are doing solid, some are a little small and bushy like the purple candy paint and the rocstar breath but not that they have some room to grow maybe theyll pick it up.

Day 43 (Second Grow, Flowering Phase): Hey everyone! We’re well into day 43 of our second grow and deep into the flowering phase. 🌸 The transition has been amazing to witness, with our plants showing significant bud development. The plants are producing beautiful, dense buds, and it’s incredible to see the daily changes and the rapid development. We’ve been maintaining the humidity between 50-60%, but we’re keeping a close eye on it to prevent any issues. We’re considering whether to get a dehumidifier to bring it down to the ideal 40-50%. The SCROG net continues to work wonders, ensuring even light distribution and supporting the heavy buds. Our Timor shield mantis is still patrolling the garden, keeping pests at bay naturally. She’s become quite the guardian! The plants are looking healthy and vibrant. We're excited to see how they continue to develop over the coming weeks. Any tips or advice for optimizing this stage? Let us know in the comments!

Day 1 Water: 50ml RO water Humidifier: 70-75% (HIGH-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 16:20 (22.5° celsius @ 70% RH) Light off @ 9:20 (19.5° celsius @ 65% RH) --------------------------------------------------- Day 2 Water: N/A Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Low Light on @ 16:20 (21.7° celsius @ 78% RH) Light off @ 9:20 (19.3° celsius @ 81% RH) --------------------------------------------------- Day 3 Water: N/A Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-High Light on @ 16:20 (21.4° celsius @ 77% RH) Light off @ 9:20 (20.5° celsius @ 78% RH) --------------------------------------------------- Day 4 Water: N/A Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 18:30 (21.3° celsius @ 80% RH) Light off @ 9:30 (20.1° celsius @ 75% RH) -------------------------------------------------- Day 5 Water: 50ml RO water Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 19:00 (22.3° celsius @ 80% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19.7° celsius @ 81% RH) -------------------------------------------------- Day 6 Water: N/A Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 19:00 (22.3° celsius @ 74% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19.1° celsius @ 83% RH) -------------------------------------------------- Day 7 Water: N/A Humidifier: 80% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 19:00 (21.8° celsius @ 78% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (18° celsius @ 83% RH) --------------------------------------------------

End of day 27 flower. Did a full defoliation on her today to open her up for a better light penetration. Also did a bud pinching technique about 5 days ago on two main branches so I will see how it compares to the ones that were left alone. Overall the buds are swelling up pretty good and there’s only 20-25 days left before harvest. Thanks for taking the time to check her out. Peace out ✌️

At the beginning of week 2 the plants have grown fine, but also developed some yellow leaf-tips, which I assume is from the amount of light they receive. Therefore I decide to hang the both LED-fixtures higher. The LUMATEK ZEUS PRO 600W is now at 75 cm distance and the two SANlight Q6W-Gen.2 are at 90 cm distance from the top of the clones of CANNALOPE HAZE from DNA-GENETICS. The humidity inside the HOMEBOX-tent is kept permanently at 60% during veg. The grow-controller GROWBASE PRO from GROWCONTROL does a GREAT job in keeping a constant environment inside my growtent. As a precaution I put up some yellow sticky traps against fungus-gnats and also hang sachets with predatory mites from KOPPERT (=Thripex PLUS) on every plant. This will prevent spider-mites and thrips to invest my tent, since the predatory mites will eat them right away. I LOVE BIOLOGICAL TREATMENTS and decide on it every time instead of using chemicals, because I grow my own medicine here and dont want ANY CHEMICALS on my cannabis! 👍😎 At the end of week two I slightly increase the light intensity again, by adjusting the dimmers of my LEDs. The Lumatek is now set to 50% dimm-level and the SANlights are running at 60%. Until now there is not much difference to see between the two sides, all plants are healthy and doing well.