Next week floweing

July 21, 2020 update. The indoor girls are looking close to harvest. Outdoors the buds still look loose and airy, but all of the hairs have curled in and are turning red/brown. I'm thinking about cutting them all down in the next few days - mainly because my existing jars are getting low. 😮

beauties

Update : 09.06 Da das Wetter hier im Norden nicht so mit spielt, machen sie langsam Fortschritte. Wir machen das beste Draus ✌️

Harvested 7.49 Oz of dry flower after drying for 8 days. This plant is fairly difficult to grow and not resilient in my opinion. I would advise looking at their other strains like apple strudel if you want something easy to grow. Check out my videos on Youtube/Rumble/IG - DabKing7200

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

It is slowly coming together for a flower flip 🙏. This is my first photo period grow and I feel that I have learned so much during this grow when it comes to topping, lst, lollipopping and defoliation. Thank you Youtube for that. I am so happy with my 10 main colas now. I will flip to flower (12/12) the 29 th of December.

Van muy bien, están fertilizantes con Bio Grow De Green house Feeding Siguen en sus macetas de 3 litros debajo del Spider Farmer SF1000 💡 🧡

Pasaremos la tiger bomb al armário grande, cuando acabemos el seguimientos de Royal Queen Seeds! Entrenaremos el Scrog por primera vez.🤙🏻

Bobbing along. Moved into its own tent...happier now. Almost at the pre-flower stage and LST going well.

The ladies are doing great. A week or two more and then I am switching to 12/12. I topped the heck out of these girls, so just going to let them recover before the switch. As always thank you for your support. 😀

Sta andando alla grande le gemme purtroppo di piccole dimensioni ma niente male

8/10 Hurried morning. Today was water day and the hose fucked up. Dad got it working while I filled half the jugs needed with water and the requisite amount of plant doctor. I gave the preventative dose (which is 1/2 tsp per gallon but I upped it closer to 1 tsp per gallon) on the plants that have received the three full treatments, the 10th planet in the middle and the chemdog. The rest received their last full dose. I had watered the NATURAL mk ultra and other tenth planet yesterday so I'm waiting until tomorrow when the need water to give them their treatment. Other than the 10th planet I'm worried things are going pretty good. Tjat's probably tine too. I certainly wouldnt have even noticed it a few years ago. I only bought like half the amount of soil as last year and really tried keeping costs down. These aren't the biggest plants I've grown but I'm grateful for what I have. I'm working hard to get the most out of them I can. I'm planning to give it a few days and then feed later in the week. EDIT: I THINK I got my grow question deleted. Finally. It's strange that I didn't get ONE outdoor growers response. Doesn't matter. I figured out the best course of action. I'm lucky. Or maybe I just work hard. I defoliate twice a day. I have some pruning to do on the interior of a COUPLE plants. I've cleaned them up pretty good this year. No signs of ANY wpm which is great but suprisinging considering the rh and the rolling fog most mornings. 8/11 I gave the tenth planet in the back and the mk ultra I didn't get yesterday. The mk ultra got the preventative dose (upped from 1/2tsp to 1tsp) and the 10th planet tge full dose. I'll have to check but I think this is the last cure dose for everyone. Found a pillar INSIDE a bud on the special kush that's far ahead. Then you can see on the video a HUGE cut worm or something on the branch I pull down. Luckily I saw it. Wasn't there when I got back but it took a few bites. Looked on the camera and saw a bird swoop in and grab him. Thank the lord! It's going to be 100° today and tomorrow with heat advisory in effect. I'm going to have to treat these plants for pests/pillars some how. I might just use BT and my super alkaline water. The septoria is under control and I'm just afraid spraying anything would make things worse. I'm certainly jot going to let them eat my early flowering plant. I can't apply ANYTHING in this heat. I'll research and maybe if it gets low enough tonight I might be able to do something. I'm going to go back over and check that plant going branch by branch. That one 10th planet tgat WAS the biggest plant is severely stunted amd has some "strange" looking leaves. I wasthinking about getting it off property or just chopping and burning but I figure it's been in there long enough that the others could be infected. I think it spreads through pests if that's the case then it might be better to get rid of it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm going to stop and try to get some mulch today. EDIT: I found a place I can get a bale of straw and I think I'll use that to mulch. It's almost a 100°. After killing the pillar this morning and missing that cutworm I came back over to REALLY look at the special kush in later flower. I looked through every branch and every bud. I found four pillars on that plant. No REAL damage yet and extremely small. I had to pull buds apart to find them. It's like they were hiding from the heat. That was miserable hand picking them in 100° degree weather. Luckily the bird feeders are close but the bigger birds chase the smaller ones. The smaller birds have found a new food source and perch on my cage waiting. I'm leaning towards treating the flowering plant with BT-k. Seeing that tge citric acid WON'T kill fungus I'll just use OUR super alkaline water and hope for the best. Nothing will get treated during this weather. 8/12 IT reached 105° yesterday and I had a family medical emergency. Came over this morning to several plants drooped right over despite me checking MD day and them being fine. Phone dodnt charge so I couldn't get pictures. Watered everything but the ones that got it yesterday cause they looked good and still had weight. I had to leave before the ones that were down could pick back up. The kush plants seem to tolerate this heat much better. Beside the ones in the 10s tge others are taking this hear fine. I'll update when I get back. EDIT: Went back over around 10. Another hot day. Suppised to be HOTTER than yesterday. I don't know how that's possible. both our thermometers went to 104 lately. Oh and I dont think that's beet curly top virus I think it's just great stress! I've grown this strain before and it's not the most resilient but it's other qualities make up for that. That's a loud off. I checked most buds on the plant in late flower and found a grass hopper IN the cola! No damage that I could see and I flicked him in the head which killed it. I came back to the chemdog that I didn't water drooping. I watered that and the 10th planet I didn't get this morning. The only one that hasn't got water today was the natural mk ultra and when I was there it was still heavy and looked really good so I left it. I'll have to come back around four and check things out. I'll be watering that tonight for sure. It will be hot tomorrow too then it will be better weather. I need to feed but I'm uncertain whether I should in this heat. All the kush strains I'm running are have Hindu kush as a parent and seem to be able to take the heat no problem. We don't get heat like this usually. It's different when it's 100° and 99% rh than dry heat. Edit #2 WENT BACK OVER AROUND 3:30PM EXPECTING TO WATERING THE ONE PLANT I HADNT. THE MK ULTRA THAT I LEFT NATURAL. IT LOOKED GREAT WHEN I GOT THERE AND WAS STILL HEAVY. IT LOOKED BETTER THAN NORMAL. ONE SIDE HAD A FEW LEAVES THAT WERE STARTING TO DROOP BUT ITS RIGHT WHERE THE SUN IS HITTING IT ON TH BOTTOM. ITS JUST A LITTLE HEAT STRESS. THE 10TH PLANET ARE MORE PRONE TO HEAT STRESS. I NEED TO FEED. I DEFOLIATED QUITE A FEW LEAVES TODAY. IM RUNNING OUT OF LARGE FAN LEAVES ON MY PLANT IN MID FLOWER. EVERYTHING SEEMED TO START MAKING LITTLE ROCK HARD BUDS ALMOST OVERNIGHT AND THEY ARE STARTING TO SWELL. PLANTS NEED NITROGEN I THINK. I USED LESS SOIL AND WATERED MORE. I JUST DONT WANT TO FEED DURING THIS HOT WEATHER. TOMORROWS THE LAST OF THIS HEAT WAVE AND THEN ILL BE ABLE TO GIVE THE GIRLS A GOOD FEEDING. THE SILVER LINING TO THE PATHOGEN THING IS THAT IVE BEEN MUCH MORE COGNIZANT OF LEAFING THE PLANTS AND REMOVING DEAD AND DAMAGED LEAVES. I'VE DONE A MUCH BETTER JOB WITH THAT THIS YEAR. AFTER THE HOT SPELL ILL GET IN WITH SHEARS AND PRUNE OFF LARF. IVE GOT SOME BUT I HAVE MORE I NEED TO GET. 8/13 IT was supposed to be HOTTER yesterday than the day before bit it was the same 104°. Today is supposably the end of this ridiculous heatwave. I watered everything that needed it despite having watered deeply yesterday. I put 8 1/2 gallons into the garden where it needed it most. Chemdog and the big 10th planet I got yesterday. Soil is still wet and the bags are heavy. I can't believe how well these kush plants hold up to the heat. Hopefully better Temps tomorrow so I can feed. In other news I haven't been seeing septoria leaves. Less and less everytime I go over! Keeping my fingers 🤞. 8/14 Last of the hot days. Watered the chem dog and the big MK ULTRA. It's supposed to rain today. The rest of the plants are heavy amd doing good. I'll update when I can write more. UPDATE: MY SPIDEY SENSE STARTED TINGLING AND I SAW THE TEMP WAS OVER 90° SO I WENT AND CHECKED THE GIRLS. THAT MONSTER 10TH PLANET WAS STARTING TO DROOP. THEY BOTH ARE A LITTLE HEAT STRESSED BUT WE ARE SUPPISED TO GET THUNDER STORMS AND MUCH MILDER WEATHER. I DID SOME SEFOLIATION AND PRUNING WHILE I WAD THERE. MY FEAR OF SEPTPRIA HAS LED TO ME BEINGVMUCH MORE DILIGENT IN PRUNING AND DEFOLIATION. I PLAN TO FEED TOMORROW AND DO SOME MORE PRUNING OF SMALL SHIT THAT WILL JUST GET EATEN OR INFECTED. PLANTS NEED TO BE FED. ILL NEED TO WATER TOMORROW IM SURE SO I ASSUME ILL BE FEEDING. I WANTED TO SPRAY BT TONIGHT BUT ITS TO HOT. I HOBESTLY BELIEVE THE BIRDS AND MY MANUAL INSPECTIONS HAVE BEEN DOING PRETTY GOOD. WISH I HAD A BLACK LIGHT FLASHLIGHT. THATS A GOOD IDEA! MAYBE I COULD EVEN GET ONE OF THOSE ONES THATCWORK ON FUNGUS AS WELL. I SAW A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOKED LIKE MITES HAD FED ON THEM. I FOUND ONE SO THERES GOT TO BE MORE. THE THING IS THOUGH....WHERE "I" GROW ITS REALLY HARD FOR A MITE INFESTATION TO TAKE HOLD. THE WINDS TO STRONG, THE TEMPS AND WEATHER TO UNPREDICTABLE AND THE FALL PREY TO NATURAL PREDATORS. AT LEAST THATS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST. IM NOT SURE IF BT KILLS MITES. ILL CHECK. IF NOT ILL KEEP AN EYE OUT. HONESTLY, ITS OUTDOORS BUGS ARE GOING TO GET ON MY PLANTS. I DEAL WITH IT APPROPRIATELY. THIS WAS A SMALL BOTTOM BRANCH THAT GOT PRUNED ANYWAY. NOT A SPIDERMITE BUT STILL. FOUND A REAL SPIDER WHILE LOOKING FOR PILLERS AND HAD TO EVICT HIM. HIS WEBS LOOKED EGGECTOVE BUT I DONT WANT SPIDER WEBS ON MY PLANTS. HE/SHE DESCENDED VERY QUICKLY ON A WEB TRYING TO ESCAPE. NO DICE THOUGH. I APPRECIATE AND THANKED HIM FOR HIS HARD WORK HELPING KEEP MY PLANTS PEST FREE. EDIT #2 I doubt many people read what I write but I've been rereading some of it and there are so many typos I appear dyslexic or to have a severe learning disability haha. Words are missing, letters are missing and sometimes sentences just don't make sense. Oh well. I'm not changing it. If you are able to decipher my notes congratulations! 8/15 We got NO rain despite other townsfolk near us having thunderstorms. Watered everything in the garden but the chem dog and 10th planet I watered yesterday. Everybody got a gallon but the big mk ultra got closer to 1.5. I fed them this morning with a quart. I could probably up the dose but this seems to work. I have some other defoliation to do. I see some small white specks. Mites. Just a few bottom leaves. I picked then off. I'll watch it and I'll be spraying SOMETHING soon. I was planning BT-k but if I have other pests I mat need to use something else probably Dr. Zymes. I'm more worried about pillars than a few bottom leaves that have a couple on them.

The fimming does what I wished. The single headbud, „twin‘ed“ into 3 headbuds. The fimming also stops the vegetation, but most times luckily only the node of the headbud! Then does the twinheadbuds build a roof-crown with the other nodes.

Oh man I'm excited about this one now. I think I may try and fill this tent out with this just this one plant. Earth box and manual scrog on this Gelato. After getting her in there and realizing how easy she is to bend over and how easy it will be to get a monster plant with this set up, I'm super stoked. This will probably end up being a super long veg time but that's okay. This is exciting for me. Something different.

Sorry for the late update. It's been a hectic week at home and I barely had time to do the basic work. Bit of a nightmare also. These Pinapple are flying along and probably have 2 mabey 2,1/2 weeks left until harvest. I'm now getting leaf damage on both plants despite keeping EC below 1.8 at all times. Really cant put my finger on it but I've decided just to let them run out and ill try and be more thorough on my next attempt with this strain. Really happy with them despite that and bud structure is looking really great.

Day 31, Stacking nicely. She will get another dose of Green rush Beefy bud on day 35. Day 39 a dose of microbes and molasses with some Seaweed extract for Potassium boost. A nice defoliation on day 40 or so to shape up all the Colas. Should see some nice progress in coming weeks and hopefully some purple big buds ! Thanks for checking her out ! Strong Limonene terps, i removed anything trying to grow under canopy and wow the lemon zest was crazy! Gassy Lemons and Candy! First smell i could almost compare to Prestone ( coolant you put in vehicles ) with some candy notes. It does make me think its leaning on the sativa genetic side but we will see. It did stay nice and short and might have stretched 8 inches or so. It will be a nice hybrid for sure ! Defoliated on Day 34. Removed any big fan leaves blocking nodes. Averaging 40% RH 24/7