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Home stretch baby!!! Start of week 10 of flower, and things are looking chop ready:) The ill effects of last weeks PK burn have subsided and the plants are back to healthy. Have been checking trichomes and flower form, and based on my experience, these ladies are coming down in 6 days, October 6th. One of the plants has the hardest, densest, stickiest nug i have ever seen. So looking forward to tasting. I have been off the nutes for a few days and will be water only from here on out. I have dusted off my old bowl trimmer and drying rack. I have always wet-trimmed and dried in a rack. I dry for about 5 days and then start jarring and burping. The bowl trimmer is soooo fast. It cuts my trim time by literally 90%, will post a video on chop day. Updates later in week F66 - Chopped the one girl who had a tonne of amber in her. Looks to be a good 2.5 zips when dry, time will tell if my estimate is correct, but it comes from experience. Other 7 plants coming down on F71. Check my bowl trimmer video!

the seedlings germinated on September 22 in the biobizz light mix soil after 13 days I administered 1ml / lt. advanced nutrients ph perfect grow 1ml / lt. ph perfect micro 1ml / lt. 2ml / lt. b-52 2ml / lt voodoo juice after 4 days I repeated the fertilization with 1.4ml / lt of the main nutrients and 2ml / lt of b-52 after a few days I noticed some burnt tip signs of overfertilization so from day 12 I started giving demineralized water until the outflow for 3-4 times until a few days ago that I noticed a yellowing of the upper part and spots that look like calcium or potassium deficiency I was also wondering if I can do without the cal-mag since the ph perfect micro contains a lot of calcium. tomorrow I give the third dose of nutrients hoping they will recover since nothing has changed with the first two fertilizations Days 39 they do not seem mileage even after a week of fertilization even if at very low dosages the next time I increase the nutrients and let's see what happens Days 41 it looks like it's going well they still look nutrient deficient the next time we increase the dosage.

My Lit Marker plant is really taking off! It's growing so fast, and the leaves are getting bigger every day. They have this cool, pointy shape that reminds me a lot of the Black Valentine plant. It's exciting to see how quickly it's developing, and I can't wait to watch it grow even more. Stay tuned for more updates on this beauty! The weather has been absolutely gorgeous this past week! We've been hitting that sweet spot of 70 degrees during the day, perfect for getting outside and soaking up some sun. Then, it cools down to a comfy 50 degrees at night, which is ideal for sleeping with the windows open. I've been loving all the fresh air! I finally got around to building that little wooden planter for my windowsill. It was a fun project, and now my regular plants have a nice new home. It really brightens up the room, and I'm thinking of adding some herbs to it soon. Maybe I'll even try growing some basil!

Bloom

Incredible colors dank sour strawberryis the smell tricomes are massive on this genetic and tones of them she is hardy and turns pretty colors during the cold can't wait for harvest med man Dan 420

First week budding. Definitely starting showing signs of female the first 2 days you can see the hairs com in at the bot of the stocks. Looking forward to next week

Very easy genetics did only topping at 21st day and just light feed throughout,she is very thirsty for cal-mag from early flowers ,not very much purple going on but i can see some pink going around ,produced very big colas ,now whole plant hanging to dry for about 7-10 days and will update soon 🌞🌞💚✂️😍 End result im pretty happy with love the purple colours too will defo run this again 💚💚💨🍑

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Hay un par de ellas del centro con carencia de calcio, pero para la fecha que estamos nada preocupante, la semana que viene seguramente empiece lavando raíces para que lleguen bien limpias

It is really growing fast. รดน้ำทุกๆ 2-3 วัน 🥦 หลังจากตัดก้านหลักในวันที่ 15 รู้สึกว่ามันโตไวมาก ผ่านมา 5 วัน เห็นความต่างได้ชัด Happy 420 :) 🍀

So this little baby is short and thick 😂 she is growing well but very stubby 🤷 anywho she looks very bushy and has fat leaves so she was defoliated and topped a second time! 💕🌸she seems to be coming along great!

Week 10, so from today I stopped watering the Gelato Cookie D'ohpe and on Saturday no more light as well. Sunday is harvest day finally. Not much changed, I raised up the water with 25ml so the Purple Punch gets 200ml 2 x a day. That's all, since last week I started giving 13 hours darkness and 11 hours light and from Monday will be 12/12 after I harvested the Gelato Cookie D'ohpe and I can use the tent only for her. Fertilization will happen on the same days. Sunday fun day, Gelato Cookie D'ohpe is harvested. Purple Punch left alone. From tomorrow I will switch the light schedule 12/12. End of the week Purple Punch is 43 cm.

Senescence is really starting to set in, some nice purple hues in the flowers now which are quite hard to show with my camera 📷 These girls are meant to flower for 60-70 days, based on the maturity of the larger lady, maybe they will finish a bit earlier, but this time even if the trichomes get very amber, I’m going to try and push them through for the full 70 days. I will start checking trichomes next week, I don’t want to give myself any excuse to cut them down. I have chopped too early in the past, either because of botrytis or lack of patience. The flowers on the larger plant aren’t quite as full and symmetrical as the other plants, but she has a lot of colas to support and I’m sure the taste and flavours will be great! Migro UVB got installed today, 3 hours per day at ‘noon’ from now until harvest ✂️ P.s the pictures are a little darker this week, because I wasn’t lazy and dimmed the lights down this time 🙃

Buds are gettin bigger and bigger. Super dense Main Buds.

First round of nutr

So amazing strain

Day 38. Looking amazing but low smell.

Days 15 to 17, varying by plant: My journey of experimentation, aiming to refine and perfect my cannabis cultivation methods, continues. This venture’s ultimate objective is to position myself as a preeminent cannabis cultivator in my locale. As I navigate through the labyrinth of regulatory licensing, I’m conducting a trial run with my seedlings under continuous lighting conditions and a minimal nutrient regime. My primary goal during this phase is to identify any potential hiccups that could hinder the growth process and ultimately impact the productivity of my intended commercial operation. As I delve deeper into this exploratory phase, I draw invaluable insights from the thriving cannabis community, whose collective wisdom informs my decision-making process. Given my geographical location and available resources, I’ve opted for a strategic shift in my cultivation strategy. Previously, I’ve been procuring seeds at an average cost of $10 to $22 per seed, with a relatively broad success rate variance, ranging from 70% to 85%. However, an alternative presents itself in the form of local cultivators. These businesses offer cannabis plants aged between 2 to 4 weeks, boasting an impressive variety of over 100 strains. These juvenile plants are offered at a cost-effective rate: an average of $100 for eight plants. With a success rate hovering between 70% and 95%, these plants offer excellent value. Essentially, I can access pre-grown plants at a substantial discount, in turn significantly boosting my chances of success. Consequently, I am poised to transition away from growing cannabis from seeds to harvesting. By sourcing my plants from local cultivators, I stand to significantly reduce overhead and production time—an undeniably smart move from a business standpoint. This strategic pivot signifies the end of an era and the exciting beginning of a more efficient and cost-effective chapter in my cannabis cultivation journey. I am currently outlining a plan to expand my cultivation by acquiring several juvenile plants, which should be happening between July 1st and 3rd. The new additions to my garden will include Acapulco Gold, Gelato, White Truffle, and Runtz. These will be cultivated in harmony with the existing growth, which comprises God’s Gift, Northern Lights, and the final surviving F1 Epsilon. My primary objective is to establish the most efficient and cost-effective supply chain possible. I aim to achieve this through the use of an off-grid system that runs solely on solar power, which will ensure complete sustainability and renewability. From a business standpoint, this approach is advantageous as it allows me to leverage the growth of high-quality plants that are already in the cultivation phase. The new plants are expected to arrive in about a week. If the growth rate of the currently cultivated plants doesn’t meet expectations, I’ll be incorporating several of the newly arrived plants into the hydroponics systems. This methodical approach aims to ensure an optimal growth rate and the highest possible yield. I also wish to address the cannabis grower community directly. I hope that my decision to skip the seed-to-plant stage does not cause any offense. My intentions are simply focused on maximizing quality and output, while minimizing our carbon footprint. I believe this approach is in the best interest of sustainability and efficiency, without compromising on the quality that our community values so highly. As we proceed with this venture, we’re currently in the phase of collecting equipment and navigating through the licensing process. To help lower our overhead and assist with consulting fees, we would greatly appreciate any donations, especially in terms of lighting equipment. Your support in this endeavor will contribute significantly towards optimizing our operation and will be deeply appreciated. Disclaimer: Let it also be known I am completely abiding by all state laws, and do not plan on selling any of this current bud. This is for research to avoid future growing "potholes" in the growing part of the business as we have a very small team. My end goal is to help change the current stigma around cannabis and provide a useful service that can help localize and reduce the inflation on cannabis prices in socal by providing a logical supply system. Again I intend on doing all things through the legal route as there is no need to do other wise given the laws on personal use and growing.