😎Happy day to all, my brothers!😎 We have reached the end of a wonderful journey...that of MY FIRST HYDROPONIC GROWING!!! I have obtained fantastic results from everything that accompanied me on this wonderful journey! starting from the bucket and the pump to finish with a wonderful AUTOFLOWERING genetics, each single component has played a fundamental role in the game, managing to give me extraordinary results....(let's hope it wasn't beginner's luck : )😁😁😁 on this special day, I send a greeting to all the people who unfortunately are no longer among us, but always live in our hearts!😇 LET ME KNOW IF YOU LIKED THE DIARY IN THE COMMENTS

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11/17 started flushing medium until harvest, roughly a week. Watering with plain well water which has a ph range 7.3 to 7.6 The growth of this plant was slightly slower than some other strains in the tent which I believe led to a smaller overall size of the plant due to space. Despite the smaller size of the plant, the buds seem unaffected by it. The buds are just as large as the larger plants.

It is my first grow ever hahaha. I guess a pretty good growth.

Good Grow

11/17 removed nutrients from water, plant will be ready to harvest in a week or so, I'll be doing the flush until harvest. Buds did turn to a more noticeable purple, pistols are orange and shrinking. I have noticed a few trichomes starting to turn amber. I'm excited to see harvest dry weight, buds are very large.

Week 2 of the flowering phase flew by 🌱💨. Unfortunately, I may have overdone it with potassium or kept the water level too high – the classic signs of clawing leaves were evident. Thankfully, they seem to be recovering now and are back under control 💪🍃. My IR night experiment is showing clear results 🌌: The plants exposed to infrared radiation at night stretched significantly more. This might be especially beneficial for this indica-dominant strain as it leads to better canopy distribution, improved airflow, and reduced risks of mold and disease. Plus, the light distribution is much more efficient now, which I’m excited to see pay off. On the downside, my Orange Sherbert turned hermaphroditic 😔. It’s hard to pinpoint the cause – overfertilization seems unlikely since I’m using only organic nutrients. I suspect it might be linked to an E-field experiment I’ve been running. To confirm this theory, I’ll conduct a new grow with a similar strain next year to see if the electric field negatively impacts cannabis development. Stay tuned for updates! Drop a like and follow along for more grow insights 🌿✨. See you next week! Woche 2 der Blütephase ist wie im Flug vergangen 🌱💨. Leider habe ich wohl etwas zu viel Kalium gegeben oder den Wasserstand zu hoch gehalten – die typischen Anzeichen von Adlerkrallen waren sichtbar. Zum Glück scheinen sich diese jetzt zurückzubilden und sind wieder unter Kontrolle 💪🍃. Mein IR-Nachtexperiment zeigt bereits deutliche Ergebnisse 🌌: Die Pflanzen, die nachts mit Infrarotstrahlung bestrahlt wurden, haben deutlich stärker gestretcht. Das ist besonders bei dieser indica-dominanten Sorte wahrscheinlich von Vorteil, da es zu einer besseren Verteilung des Blätterdachs führt. Dadurch verbessert sich die Luftzirkulation, das Risiko von Schimmel und Krankheiten wird minimiert, und die Lichtverteilung wird effizienter. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich das weiter auswirkt! Leider hat meine Orange Sherbert gezwittert 😔. Woran das genau liegt, kann ich schwer sagen. Eine Überdüngung halte ich für unwahrscheinlich, da ich nur biologischen Dünger verwendet habe. Ich vermute, dass mein E-Feld-Experiment eine Rolle spielt. Um das zu bestätigen, werde ich nächstes Jahr einen neuen Durchlauf mit einer ähnlichen Sorte machen und prüfen, ob das elektrische Feld tatsächlich eine ungünstige Rückentwicklung der Pflanze verursacht. Bleibt dran, lasst ein Like da und folgt mir für weitere Updates 🌿✨. Bis nächste Woche!

Fastbuds Meme Video Contest

11/17 started the flush until harvest, plain well water with ph between 7.3 to 7.6. Half gallon a day This plant is medium size for the 6 in the tent. Buds are large and dense, gorilla is a great genetic for yield, i expect a surprise on yield given what I can see.

Week 2 of the flowering phase flew by 🌱💨. Unfortunately, I may have overdone it with potassium or kept the water level too high – the classic signs of clawing leaves were evident. Thankfully, they seem to be recovering now and are back under control 💪🍃. My IR night experiment is showing clear results 🌌: The plants exposed to infrared radiation at night stretched significantly more. This might be especially beneficial for this indica-dominant strain as it leads to better canopy distribution, improved airflow, and reduced risks of mold and disease. Plus, the light distribution is much more efficient now, which I’m excited to see pay off. On the downside, my Orange Sherbert turned hermaphroditic 😔. It’s hard to pinpoint the cause – overfertilization seems unlikely since I’m using only organic nutrients. I suspect it might be linked to an E-field experiment I’ve been running. To confirm this theory, I’ll conduct a new grow with a similar strain next year to see if the electric field negatively impacts cannabis development. Stay tuned for updates! Drop a like and follow along for more grow insights 🌿✨. See you next week! Woche 2 der Blütephase ist wie im Flug vergangen 🌱💨. Leider habe ich wohl etwas zu viel Kalium gegeben oder den Wasserstand zu hoch gehalten – die typischen Anzeichen von Adlerkrallen waren sichtbar. Zum Glück scheinen sich diese jetzt zurückzubilden und sind wieder unter Kontrolle 💪🍃. Mein IR-Nachtexperiment zeigt bereits deutliche Ergebnisse 🌌: Die Pflanzen, die nachts mit Infrarotstrahlung bestrahlt wurden, haben deutlich stärker gestretcht. Das ist besonders bei dieser indica-dominanten Sorte wahrscheinlich von Vorteil, da es zu einer besseren Verteilung des Blätterdachs führt. Dadurch verbessert sich die Luftzirkulation, das Risiko von Schimmel und Krankheiten wird minimiert, und die Lichtverteilung wird effizienter. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich das weiter auswirkt! Leider hat meine Orange Sherbert gezwittert 😔. Woran das genau liegt, kann ich schwer sagen. Eine Überdüngung halte ich für unwahrscheinlich, da ich nur biologischen Dünger verwendet habe. Ich vermute, dass mein E-Feld-Experiment eine Rolle spielt. Um das zu bestätigen, werde ich nächstes Jahr einen neuen Durchlauf mit einer ähnlichen Sorte machen und prüfen, ob das elektrische Feld tatsächlich eine ungünstige Rückentwicklung der Pflanze verursacht. Bleibt dran, lasst ein Like da und folgt mir für weitere Updates 🌿✨. Bis nächste Woche!

11/17 started flushing. Giving a half gallon of plain well water daily. Ph is typically around 7.3 to 7.6 My absolute favorite plant. The beautiful purple is so exciting. The plant grew very fast and very large, i would suggest leaving ample room for this plant. All the buds are large. Just a joy to grow.

Nice color changes on MF Roy #4 this pheno has been interesting from start to finish! Excited to see what the upcoming harvest and dry/cure has in store!

ATHENA NUTRIENTS dwc

Did not top these girls

Runtz Punch is growing strong. She has reached maturity and is ready to flower. She will need some hst at some point for sure. Probably switch to flowering in a week. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Herbies Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Candy is doing good. She had a solution change today. She is due for a good defoliation. I also will be switching to flowering soon. Everything is going great. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Divine Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

2024, 2160, Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time, with a slew of other problems, one by one no remedy seemed to yield answers. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. I just thought I would share some of my research to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that points up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You won't get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with too much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) cause a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plant vacuoles resulting in the inability of the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the abstract of the article "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification, and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.

Semana segue bem, planta ainda bebe bastante água.

Day 15 Update : Decided to grab a tape measure to check canopy heights on a whim and discovered that my light was hanging 35 inches from “Cellie” Cereal and Milk . Wowzers 👀! So I raised the plant to be 26 inches from the light that I also dimmed down to about 40% . It works out that I can try to get the most out of the end of flower stretch for the older gal who shall no more than be mentioned for reference to accentuate the great glorious glamorous “Cellie”. The humidity plummeted after I did a major defoliation of the older gals so I adjusted the airflow rate of the lower in-line fan and the upper inline exhaust fan with the carbon filter . I lowered them both to the lowest setting & the humidity returned to “normal” Let me explain my reasonings/thinking behind my adjustments which are experimental at BEST. It’s worth also mentioning without having to preset a single thing on my 70pint Dehumidifier located inside this tent it is legitimately only plugged into my PRESET humidistat controller which is set to 50%-46% RH WITH an alarm on highs of 55% and lows of 43% . In real life what this translates to is when this humidity controller triggers the dehumidifier ON @50%RH immediately the fan of the Dehumidifier begins running. However this does not help the rising humidity that is occurring (it will reach 55%-60.2%RH ). Given a fixed amount of time , the condenser(atleast what it sounds like . .again, it could be anything) turns on . It is when this “condenser” “sounding” component begins working that the humidity IMMEDIATELY plummets down to my low point of 46% So to make a long story short the humidity gets vacuumed to 46%RH & the dehumidifier turns off, bc of the PURPOSEFUL EXPERIMENTAL TWEAKING making all air exchange fans low leveled the humidity slowly but steadily rises to 50%RH then the dehumidifier is triggered on but only the fans initially and the humidity eventually reaches 55%RH-60.2%RH & then the humidity gets all its hair snatched out by the dehumidifier and drops back down to 46%RH. 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 with all that said of anybody was even interested per my tents leaf canopy height temperature average good to great OR LITE GREEN TO DARK GREEN VPD for my temperature begins @ 60 & ends @ 52 which is kind of a perfect storm for OUR GIRL “CELLIE” oooooooorrrrrrrrrrr sssssssoooooo I think/hope . She still hasn’t needed watering since being transplanted, she should now ready and willing to stretch those toes and we need the opportunities to top water that soil a few times to make those dry amendments available to her . More pics of later the week coming as we go . . Hopefully . Diligence is a practice Day #17: giving her some water today, no specific amount just until she feels the right amount of “heavy”. She was given 3 different batches of water once ph’d to 6.3 once ph’d to 6.7 one ph’d to 6.5. She’s grown an inch in 2 days. Also swapped out the smart hygrometer system to a different brand . So far it has all the capability I was looking for but I need to run 2 more experiments to know for certain it lives up to my needs and its price tag 😁 Day 18 Update: she grew an inch taller nice 👍 The smart hygrometer system has reported/experience Bluetooth failures twice already(although I don’t know exactly what that means considering I purchased this for it’s Wifi capabilities ) I didn’t think to check it whilst I was away so I cannot yet say If it meets my final expectation/need I bought a soil ph meter & it indicates “my mix” is at 3.1 ph 👀 hmm 🤔 I’m wondering if this is a must fix or can I get by .eventually she will be transplanted and at that time I can use my new digital soil ph probe to construct her new blend moving forward but I am curious is I mixed another batch at 3 something ph would it matter ? In the beginning I wasn’t ph’ing any of my watering just because I assumed my soil mixture was highly acidic because of the 70ish pecernr peat moss base . I also assumed that it would be acid fixing for the water I put in it and therefore wouldn’t need to ph it and I did just fine just giving plain old tap water when thirsty until I experience VPD issues & in an effort to pinpoint what my exact issue was and how to fix it I of course eliminated all the variables and dialed in on my ph of my feed water and now my soil so it leaves me wondering does the soil need to be relatively 6.1 ph or is the 3.1 I’m flying at alright also . I checked the other 3 currently in here getting through flower & two of them are in the 3’s for ph & one of them is 6.2(the largest of them all) how ever she was the largest of them all always and oddly enough I mixed one big batch for them and transplanted them at the same time so I get two of them having the same ph as “Cellie” but the other that is in ph heaven is an oddball Should I top her here or supercrop later hmm I need to decide my vision for this thing Day 19 Update: ponytailed her youngest internode for about 16hrs she aggressively popped out of it twice ! It didn’t even work for 24hrs when I try it again it’ll be before the internode is so strong . Also rigged up a 16in oscillating wall-fan that currently being held with 2 zip ties , 2 rubber bands , & a smidget of duct tape and MAJORITY OF FAITH keeping it in place . The biggest plus to my added circulation is that I got the 16in fan for ! A win is a win . Pics uploads will be held for the next 3 days until the end of week 3 upload . Drop a thumbs up Day 20 Update : THE FAN FELL! But no one was damaged or injured . I re-rigged it . This time with duct tape , 3 popsicle sticks , 2 heavy duty zip ties & 1 regular strength zip tie . SHES SOLID NOW 😂 I did some solid rigging this time & have videoed my handy work . Also I forgot to turn my A/C back on before leaving the house so temps and humidity skyrocketed and swung for 9 hours until I got home . The temp in the tent was 84.4 and the humidity went from 42.4 to 57.5 to 42 every three mins. Day 21 Update : SHES A PRETTY GIRL. RQS says Cereal Milk is a slightly sativa dominant hybrid but the pheno of this particular seed seems to lean more towards indica I’m not mad at it ! I’m getting more stoked to see what she can do. She still hasn’t received any additional water since the a few days 18.

2024, 2160, Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time, with a slew of other problems, one by one no remedy seemed to yield answers. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. I just thought I would share some of my research to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that points up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You won't get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with too much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) cause a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plant vacuoles resulting in the inability of the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the abstract of the article "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification, and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Lesson Learned here for me, lets hope she can recover. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.