Just got a new 600w mh/hps light for now it’s in my current setup with my 250 n it’s dimmed to 50%, only reason I mention is b/c the plants seem to be loving it!! They’re 12 days old from seed, still just ph’d water for them! So far so good :P

ENGLISH BELOW ESP: Estas dos mangos fueron preciosas de cultivar. Cogieron un tono azulado y algunos pétalos se volvieron de un color rosa muy fuerte. No fue difícil de cultivar aunque la empezara en octubre, tuvo la visita de algunas orugas pero no causaron casi ningún daño. -Empecé el cultivo en octubre, esto y la falta de luz hizo que mis plantas no llegaran a la altura deseada, no tuvieron todo el sol que necesitaban y se espigaron. Les hice un corte FIM a una planta y apical a la otra, lo cual hizo que las puntas desarrollaran una forma curiosa. - El producto final son 23,3 gramos de cogollos no demasiado prietos pero muy resinosos y con unos colores preciosos. - El sabor es algo difícil de definir. En el sabor no he encontrado el coco, pero sí las frutas tropicales, mango y cítrico. Y me parece haber saboreado algo de hierbas. Es un sabor agradable aunque solo lo haya curado durante tres semanas. -El colocón es indico, pero empieza como algo cerebral y se va extendiendo por el cuerpo pero sin dejarte k.o. A mí me ha convencido, he disfrutado cultivándola, la recomiendo a quien esté pensando en probarla These mangos are amazingly gorgeous. They took a bluish tone and some petals turned a very strong pink color. It was not difficult to grow considering that I planted it a little late, I only had the visit of some caterpillars. There are some pics of one of them. -I started cultivation in October, this and the lack of light caused my plants not to reach the desired height, they did not have all the sun they needed and they sprouted. I made a FIM cut to one plant and apical to the other, which caused the tips to develop a curious shape. - The final product is 23.3 grams of buds not too tight but very resinous and with beautiful colors. - The taste is something difficult to define. In the flavor I have not found the coconut, but the tropical fruits, mango and citrus. And i think i tasted something herbal. It's a nice taste even if I only cured it for three weeks. -The high is indicated, but starts as something cerebral and is extending through the body but without leaving k.o. It has convinced me, I have enjoyed cultivating it, I recommend it to anyone who is thinking of trying it00

Lets go. This is my old stealth boomgrowbox. Led is 47w 3000k and cost 13€. Computer fan is sucking air trough carbonfilter. Filter is years old but still keep most of the smells. Inside dimensions are 36x40x120cm. I grow different strains with same setup every time so let see what strain takes victory in this battle. Plan is Seed to water for 24h and straight in to the middle of 6-7L sub-irrigation pot. I think this pot gives most equal watering for each fighter. Dome for until it breaks the surface. LST begin at day 15. No defoliation. First grow basicly set the rules. Let see how it goes when we get that far 🤣 Soil is from local shop. With mykorhiza. 80%soil 20%perlite. Clay pebbles over after dome moves away. As nutrients we have Terra aquatica drypart grow/bloom/late bloom. Be there on he squirrel. Ps. I am pretty sure going to kill couple Girls cause im so bad at growing in soil. Just let me know what im doing wrong. With High Hopes 🍀

Oct. 30 - Week 4 begins. I removed some of the lower fan leaves and branches. Oct. 31 - Photo update. Nov. 1 - Photo update. I am trying to water more frequently, doing so is much easier with some lower leaves and branches having been removed. Nov. 3 - Photo update. It's growing pretty well, all things considered.

A friend had a chance to take some photos for me, also continued with some defoliation as well. Nutrients are doing well, hopefully buds really take off this week.

Follow my instagram for more in-depth grow. IG:Flavoursuk__

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Start of a new grow, 3 strains this time around. OG Kush, Blueberry, Super Lemon Have, all from canuk seeds, all clone's from my own mother's.

1/20/2023- So much to do pre grow and over the next 16 days, absolute first order of business is that I have to take down my current Grow---TIMBER-- Then I have a list of things I have to get done in order to be ready to start this grow 1 Feb. With that said T - 2 days until start 48 hour Flush T - 2 days until Start 48 hours of Light T - 4 days until TIMBER!!! Items that need to be done before 1 Feb 2023 1. I need to clean the tent out 2. I need to clean the equipment- Proper Sanitization between grows in Hydro is a must!!! 3. I need to get the hole in the ceiling above my tent repaired- For my last grow I had a deep sink installed in my grow room, to make Hydroponics a little bit easier and have a water source in the same room. The seals on the pipes they were installing broke and leaked through the ceiling causing some damage all the way across my grow room, I was already weeks into my grow and couldn't risk them working above my tent and it would have been very awkward positon for them to be working in as well, so have to get this done quickly between chop and germination. 4. I have to install my new light- I was using a Vivosun 4000 and for this grow I am switching up to a Spider-farmer SF 7000. 1/20/23- For this upcoming grow I am working with M/F photo seeds so I ordered 4 Sex determination kits. I recieved my my 4 Sex determination testing kits from Rimrock Analytics today. I will be using these to test my plants at week 2 of Veg so that when/if I take clones I know I am taking them off females. As well as I don't want to accidently pollinate my tent during this grow I am looking for big beautiful buds not seeded buds. :-) 1/24/2023- Harvest of current grow- Started at 2:00pm and finshed wet trim and firt batch into the freeze dryer. 1/25/2023- Next batch into the freeze dryer and cleaning all my equipment for this Grow. T-1 Day until the workers are supposed to be here to fix the hole in the Grow Room. T-3 days until I instll my new Gorilla Grow Tent and my New Light Spider Farmer SE-7000 for this grow. T-7 Days until Start of Germination 1/26/2023- Harvest is done ran through the Freeze dryer and dry tim completed. 1/27/2023- Grow Room repairs completed. Hole is gone Letting the paint dry before I install the new tent. T-2 days until Install the New Gorilla Grow tent and the new Light T-3 days until I put the hydro equipment in the new tent T-5 days until Germination 1/29/2023- Day 0- Final Pre Germination activities Germination Start T-3 days The paint on the ceiling was dry and it was time to finish prepping for Germination. I got the following items knocked off my list. New 4X4 Gorilla Grow Tent is up and ready New Spider Farmer SE-7000 Light is installed- Thanks Moony Grows for the suggestion and for the Code that got me some money off and free shipping (Moonygrows)!! I turned the lights all the way up to max and set the timer to 18/6 0600-0000. I will keep an eye on the temperature and humidity without my plants and see how hot it gets with the new light. I put my Hydro system back together and put in 40 gallons of water into it, time to monitor for leaks the next few days. I Setup my cloning machine for Germination Days 3-11 1/30/2023 let me break down the situation, ROOM in the TENT.. Enough said.. No really I tried putting my exhaust system up in the new tent with my new light, The light is so big corner to corner that it really didn't give me enough room for the lights be be raised, with the exahust hanging the buckets my plants are Starting in are 2 and 1/2 feet off the ground, great for plenty of room for roots but not so great for upwards space for the plant to grow. In a 6' 11 tent with the exauhst in side and hanging that only gave me a little over 4 feet of grow room to play with. My last grow if you saw my diary, anyone could tell I was struggling to keep the buds off the lights. No good, Since space was such an issue I was running my carbon filter inside on the ground but It really needed to be up sucking the heat out not shooting the cool out. With that setup I was sucking air through the filter and pushing it out the tent at a bottom exhaust hole cold out. Wasn't doing me any good for my heat. I was hitting temps of up to 85 degrees. I bought a portable AC unit and have been running it in the grow room to try and keep temps below 85 and I have had to lower the power on my lights during grow also not ideal.. With that said a friend of mine MoonyGrows (Check out his diary) took the time to look at my issue send me a picture of my grow tent setup with detailed instructions on how to suck the air out from the top but putting my filter and fan on top of my tent so no room issue and I am sucking the air out from the top where the heat is instead of pushing the air out from the bottom where the cool is... THANK YOU MoonyGrows For taking the time to help me get this straightened out.. Now I have room and I have the exhausts working right and now my temps with everything at 100% are topping out at 80 this dropped the temp by 5 + degrees at 100% max. T-2 days until Start of Germination Prepped my seed tray with humidity dome Prepped my Rapid Rooter plugs. I Used RO water, and I added a few drops of Hydrogen peroxide to Oxygenate the water. I then PH balanced between 5.7-6.0 the same that they will be getting in the Cloning Machine and when they get to thier final grow pod. I perfere the 5.8x range and I hit 5.84 for these rapid rooters. If you want to see a complete video on the process HowWeedGrow has an amzing video that shows step by step how to do it and explains it better than I ever could including how to plant the seeds. Which I will cover when I get to that step on Wed. https://www.howweedgrow.com/how-germinate-weed-seeds-cannabis-rapid-rooters/ 1/31/2023 T-1 day until Germination Start All set and ready have my Rapid Rooter plugs ready to go have my seeds out.. Have my seed tray warming up tonight. Tomorrow morning right into the Rapid Rooter then strait into the tray. I will spray the dome to start the humidity in there. 2/1/2023 Germination Day!! Let the games begin! 0600am Put the seeds into the Root Riots. And then put the seeded Root Riots into their first home the Seed tray. I have them under the light 24/7. Sprayed the dome 7:30pm Sprayed the Dome to keep humidity going on the dome. 2/2/2023 Day 1 of Germination Sprayed the Dome in the morning Sprayed the Dome in the evening 2/3/2023 Day 2 of Germination Roots are starting to come out the bottom of the root riot plugs and the heads are slowly popping out of Number 4 just below the surface. Afternoon- Number 4 has popped up Evening- Number 3 has popped up as well. Happy Dance!! 2/4/2023 Day 3 - Germination Surprise Surprise Surprise- all 4 have now poked their heads up.. Happy day!! 100% Germination succeeded. Now major milestone to track is how many are female and how many are male. I will take look at the roots this afternoon/evening and see if they have enough root to go into the cloning machine for the next 7 days before they go into their Hydro Pods. Day 3 - Germination - Evening.. Roots looked good and they were tall enough to make it into the cloning machine. Now that they are all in the cloning machine I have switched the lighting to veg state 18 on 6 off. 2/5/2023 Day 4 - Germination - Morning All the Ladies (fingers crossed) looking great stretching nicely and look nice and green, Photo synthesis underway.... UPDATE!! After a very interesting POD cast on FSTS by Dr. Bruce Bugsbee from Utah University, I have shifted my lighting to 24 hours on through seedling and then I am going to shift to 20 hours on the rest of Veg. 2/6/2023 Day 5 - Germination While Checking on my conditions inside the new tent last night, I found that the Humidity was down to 39 Percent. I added an AquaOasis Cool Mist Humidifier, the reason I selected this humidifier is that I needed one that could be turned on and off utilizing my Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 that I have my Pro Breeze Dehumidifier currently running with. Root structures are starting to get there about 1/4 of an inch. 2/7/2023 Day 6 - Germination Everything seems on track more roots poking out of each today. They are each getting a little taller as well. Checked in the evening and number 3 was drooping the Root riot plug on the bottome was dry and the roots were not in the water yet. I raised the water just enough that the longest root that was sticking out is now hitting the water. 2/8/2023 Day 7 - Germination Everything looked good while checking in on them this morning number 3 is now full up and no droop again. 2/9/2023 Day 8 - Germination T-2 days until Plant into Forever Pods and we start week 1 of Veg .. :-) Surprising thing to me is that number 1 and 2 were later in popping then 3 and 4 but the roots are growing longer in 1 and 2. 2/10/2023 Day 9 - Germination Number 1 and Number 2 are definitely ready for transplant today.. Based on how they were yesterday and where they are today I am hoping by tomorrow 3 and 4 are ready. Today they look to me where 1 and 2 did yesterday.. I really hope 3 and 4 catch up by tomorrow since.. T-1 day until transplant to new/ final home for grow. Need the roots long enough to have some clay down in the basket to keep the root riot out of the water and only roots in the water.. 2/11/2023 Day 10 - Germination Today they got placed in thier forever Home, 7 days from Sprout and 7 days until Week 1 Start. PPM- 180 this is water out of the Tap Temp Water: 70.7 Temp Tent: 77 Humidity: 40% I have a humidifier going 24/7 to try and bring this up.. I also have Humidity Domes on each plant. 2/12/2023 Day 11 - Germination Sprayed the domes, all are looking good.. Nothing much to do at this phase but Keep monitoring the PH level in the system and making sure they have a comfortable home. T-6 days until Week 1 start 2/13/2023 Day 12 - Germination Sprayed the domes, They were looking a little yellow today so I moved the light down to assist. Nothing much to do at this phase but Keep monitoring the PH level in the system and making sure they have a comfortable home. T-5 days until Week 1 start 2/14/2023 Day 13 - Germination Sprayed the domes, They were looking a little Florissant yellow today, with what looks like slight burn on the tips, I talked with a fellow grower and we agreed that It was probably that I was drowning them, Yes you can drown you plants even in Hydro, but only early on.. :-) It usually happens with the water being too high, which soaks not only the roots but the medium (root Riot plug in this case). I lowered the water from touching the bottom of the pot to about 1" away. This will probably take 3-4 days to resolve. I will continue my daily monitoring. T-4 days until Week 1 start 2/15/2023 Day 14 - Germination Sprayed the domes, continue my daily monitoring they look a little darker green instead of lime green now that I lowered the water levels in the system, so I think that I might have resolved the issue but it will take a few days for recovery to happen. T-3 days until Week 1 start 2/16/2023 Day 15 - Germination I looked in on them this morning, 3 and 4 look like they are doing well and recovering nicely. Number 1 not so much it has brown spots on the leaves, this very well can still be a side effect of the overwatering but I decide to go ahead and add Nutes earlier than I was planning just incase. I was going to wait until Saturday but I think intervention is necessary now especially after drowning them early on. I added 1/2 what I am planning on adding for week 1 start. I also think I am going to adjust my chart to add 1/2 2 days after plant from now on. I don't think it would hurt it to have some Nutes to pull from. .25ml/Gal Calmag = 12.5ml 1ml/gal GH FloraMicro= 50ml 1ml/gal GH FloraGro = 50ml 1ml/gal GH FloraBloom = 50ml T-2 days until Week 1 start = I will drain the system and start it over on Saturday with Week 1 Nutes. 2/17/2023 Day 16- Germination I didn't even want to post today after looking in on them this morning, 3 of the 4 are now showing signs of dronwing.. Brown spots on the leaves, the water levels were still too high.. I drained about another inch out of the tanks.. Will see how quick they recover.. I start week 1 tomorrow and will have to ensure my water levels are at least 1" away from the basket on this round.

Hi liebe Freunde des grow sports 🌻🌻 die 2. Woche ist zuende, und ich muss sagen, ich bin begeistert von den Blumen. Die Entwicklung ist ziemlich schnell voran geschritten ( Im Verhältniss zu meinen vorherigen Reporten) ich Weiss nicht ob es daran liegt, das ich das Wasser ab stehen lasse und die ganze zeit mit Sauerstoff auf blubbere dadurch verschwindet ja chlor aus dem wasser und mehr Sauerstoff ist in dem wasser, kann natürlich auch am Dünger liegen das die Pflanzen gut drauf reagieren ist denke ich aber eher unwahrscheinlich anderer seits könnte es auch an der Genetik liegen, das die Ladys einfach top Qualität haben. Nun auf zur Woche Am 09.04 und 10.04 war nur zu schauen und mich des Wachstums erfreuen 11.04.22 ich musste heute gießen also alle 5 bekamen 150 ml reines Ph eingestellt es wasser ( Ph 6,3) Am 12.04 bis 15.04.22 war wieder nur beobachten und dem Wachstum zu sehen Ach ja natürlich hier und da mal nachschauen ob Temperatur und luft Feuchtigkeit stimmen ggf. Nach justieren das wars. Ich Wunsch euch allen ein schönes Wochen Ende und einen erfolgreichen Grow bis nächste Woche ihr growmies ✌️

Super impressed with the resilience, the yield, and the smoke from this strain. Finished earlier than expected, yielded more than expected and hits harder than expected. Surprised and delighted. Thanks for this Dutch Passion. This was my lockdown harvest and I couldn't be more stoked!

We had problems with nutrients but that was controlled with the adjustment of ph the growth is going well we are in the sixth week.

Auto Moon Rock is doing some bulking. She has a excellent layer of frost on her. She still has a really green smell to her. Her colas are developing well. Everything is looking great. Thank you Divine Seeds, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Weekly update for these 3 lovely ladies. They're progressing nicely and smelling like cake when you rub the stems. Did a defoliation this week giving them some more light at the lower sites. All in all Happy

🌸 Woche 5 der Blüte Die Early Skunks sind jetzt mitten in der Blüte und entwickeln sich richtig stark. Der Stretch ist so gut wie durch und die Pflanzen haben ein schönes, gleichmäßiges Blätterdach aufgebaut. Die Blüten werden von Tag zu Tag sichtbarer und setzen schon ordentlich Harz an. Das DWC-System läuft stabil: frische Nährlösung, klare Werte und die Wurzeln strahlend weiß. Genau so soll es in dieser Phase aussehen. Die Pflanzen nehmen sehr gut auf und zeigen keinerlei Mängel oder Stress – Farbe, Struktur und Wachstum sind voll im grünen Bereich. Das Klima bleibt konstant und das Setup arbeitet sauber zusammen. Licht, Luft und CO₂ greifen perfekt ineinander, wodurch die Pflanzen richtig Tempo machen. Fazit: Sehr starke Woche. Gesunde Pflanzen, satte Farbe, stabile Blütenentwicklung. Alles bereit für die nächsten Wochen, in denen die Buds jetzt richtig zulegen werden. 🌱🔥

they are all growing great and starting to get taller. a very robust plant and very easy to grow and maintain. they are getiing 1/2 the recommeneded dose of nutrients 3 times a week