The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Cornfed
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Welcome to week 3 of veg. They’ve been growing about 1” per day lately. I’m planning to SCROG these three girls with a portable scrog screen. Supplies arrive today and I’m anxious to test this. (Note that my portable scrog screen didn’t work, so I’m using a 2x4 stretch screen). So far the self watering feeders are working well. The reservoir ph does tend to climb, so I make regular adjustments by adding RO water to the nutrient mix and using ph down. The PPM of the nutrients is climbing too, so adding RO dilutes that. As an example, it had climbed from 925 ppm to 1080 ppm overnight. I diluted it back down to 880 ppm. Saturday: installed scrog net Sunday: checked reservoir ph (6.4) and ppm (970). Added ph down. Adjusted scrog net. Discoloration in leaves appears to be worsening. Waiting for a new dehumidifier to arrive. With all of the humidity that the fiber pots put off, I’m going to need a dehumidifier in flower. Monday: ran pipes for humidifier, heater and dehumidifier through a different tent outlet. I’m ready to start dehumidifying at flower flip. Removed humidifier since I won’t need it until after the harvest (I dry in my tent ideally). Topped off reservoir water with a heavy emphasis on CalMag. Reservoirs are at a ph of 6.0 and 750ppm. Lowered ppm due to start of burnt leaf tips on one plant. Wednesday. Lowered ph in reservoir from 6.4 to 6.1 with ph down and diluted nutrients. Lowered ppm from 780 to 700. Removed growth below the SCROG net. Adjusted lighting to a DLI of 35 which proved too intense for the plants, so I backed it down to 30 DLI. Thursday: wrapped up the week by giving them a foliar spray after lights went out. Feeding 5ml/g or CalMag and 30ml/g of Seaweed Extract. Topped off reservoirs using 6ml/g of micro, 9ml/g of Bloom, Seaweed and 2ml CalMag.
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So far so good the girls are thirsty af with 24/7 so im giving about 2.6L every 2 days per Plant
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7/20/25 chopped and hung. Strong blueberry notes all the way through. Can't wait for the dry and cure. Check out my YouTube and subscribe for more content that isn't posted on here. Thank you for checking out my pages https://youtube.com/@aestheticgenetix?si=sKoIKf9kAmFlIWQo
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AutoBlueberry 10th w/ 5th W/ Flower breed by #DivineSeeds #DivineSeedsSquad #DivineSeedsBreedingCompany 3rd feed of #NukeHeads Nutrients #PlutoniumBloom and a look at my #Opium by #DivineSeeds at her 4th day of Dry! Can't Wait to Blaze!!! This AB is Flowering out and her Smells are Super Strong of Gasy and Candied Blueberries! I recently Trained down her branches to expose more Bud sites and Removed the Biggest fan leaves to expose the Bud site's to this Glorious #OsreeQB1000w Full Spectrum Grow Light! I've also Super Cropped, Topped um, Defoliated, Leaf tucked, and Implement the 3D's method like my Broski #TigerfishOrganics to remove the Dead, Dying and Diseased leaves! Origin:Afghani/Thai Type:50% Indica/ 40% Sativa/ 10% Ruderalis Flowering:56 days THC:22% Harvest:400-550 g/m2 Height:110-150 cm They were Growing under the #Growatt600w and in my #TopoLite 24×24×48 Grow Tent but I've Upgraded and Updated it to my #OsreeQB100W I'm also using #TNBNaturals #TheEnhancer Co2 Despersal Canister and using thier Ph⬆️⬇️ for my Decolinated Tap Water! Green and Growing Up Great! She's Growing into her 5th week of Flower! She's Growing in my special blend of ProMix potting mix, a 1/2 bag of Earthworm castings and 2 light handfuls of Diatomaceous Earth mixed Up well for before transplanted! Diatomaceous Earth: Diatomaceous earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Their skeletons are made of a natural substance called silica. WHAT IS DIATOMACEOUS EARTH? In a nutshell, DE comes from the fossilised remains of small marine organisms called diatoms. Over a 30 million year period, these hard-shelled algae collected on the bottom of bodies of water, eventually forming into a type of sedimentary rock. Fast forwarding, it wasn’t until around 1836 that a German peasant Peter Kasten discovered the ivory-coloured, powdery substance while drilling a well in northern Germany. Ever since, the usefulness of DE for multiple purposes, including industrial and horticultural applications, has been well-reported. Just sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on top of your soil and watch mother nature's secret weapon work its magic.CONDITIONS THE SOIL When it comes to growing cannabis, everyone strives to provide the best soil to grow the best plants—but there’s always a way to make it even better. Making the soil a better medium is called soil conditioning, which is exactly what diatomaceous earth does. It works by improving the retention of moisture in your potting soil, holding a large amount of fluid and drying at a rate that’s much slower. This natural soil additive also helps to retain nutrients and allows for better oxygenation of the substrate. NATURALLY CONTROLS PESTS DE is an all-natural, safe-to-use substance that doesn’t harm the cannabis plant with toxic chemicals. The nature of diatomaceous earth makes it useful against most types of insect infestation you might be experiencing; and unlike chemical insecticides, insects can’t develop a resistance to the effects of DE. So once they’re gone, they’re gone for good. DE is an abrasive. and when used as an insecticide, it gradually scrapes away an insect’s exoskeleton, absorbs the fluids, and dehydrates insects and other critters to eventual death. IMPROVES PLANT STABILITY When using DE in your soil, it can be especially beneficial as it frees up nutrients so that they are made available to the plants as needed. This works via the silica content of DE being absorbed into the plant tissue, which helps improve the plant’s ability to respond and receive more nutrients as DE activates. This in turn results in greater yields and better stability under small pH fluctuations! https://divineseeds.net/ https://instagram.com/divine.seeds?igshid=osxe2v7en33v https://divineseeds.net/ Thanks Again to All my Friends, Family's, Teams, Sponsors, Followers and Subscribers!!! Your Genetics are Merry Magnificent, Mega Marvelous and Mighty Medical! Love um!!! I really Can't stress enough how Thankful and Grateful I am of All of you and what you've Shared with Us! Means the World!!! It's definitely a Pleasure being able to Grow with these Phenomenal Grow Lights! Please Enjoy! BudBrothers4-Life! Cheers Famz!!! Much Props and Much Topz!💯🔥 #Osree #GrowStarStore #Growatt #TNBNaturals #TNBTeam #GrowYourOwn #Bliss https://instagram.com/osree.light?utm_medium=copy_link https://instagram.com/as420.ca?igshid=1f116alw054wp The Grow Bags: https://www.as420 https://instagram.com/tigerfish_organics?utm_medium=copy_link https://www.facebook.com/Tigerfishorganic/ #TigerfishOrganics YouTube Channel Link: https://youtube.com/channel/UC6OSXTda1JYaVNoCxdcYqIg
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So far it seems to be fine even if the high humidity worries me even if the temperatures are still high then they have stopped growing and will finally focus on the flowers and slowly we recover these small deficiencies
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Day 43 : Watering with co2 tab / 5L. Also added food again because i think they need it. Increased ppm to 850. Maybe the next one will be pure water. Ventilation works all the time when lights are on. Temp and humi are stable and this is good for the girls. 4 cm in 3 days and stretch almost finished, time for production. Patience is the key always. Also removed some burned leaves from all ladies. Her smell is lemony and look forward as fuck for this one. Edit (Day 47) : Watering with co2 tab every 5L. I watered with juices again at 850ppm because i felt that they need it. Only DsD drank pure water because of burns. Blue Cheese smelling very lemony and citrus. She will be very stinky. Started to fatten. Grow 4cm in 4 days. She likes juices also.
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Haven’t had a chance to post here lately but here’s some pics I’ve took over the last few weeks since I started training, it’s coming along nicely
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@BLAZED
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Week 8 (17-3 to 23-3) 17-3 Temps: 16.9 to 21.4 degrees Humidity: 57% to 70% 18-3 Temps: 16.6 to 21.1 degrees Humidity: 56% to 69% 19-3 Temps: 17.1 to 21.9 degrees Humidity: 54% to 64% Watering: 1100 ml. (Only Calcium added) 20-3 Temps: 17.7 to 23.1 degrees Humidity: 52% to 69% Watering: 1000 ml. 21-3 Temps: 18.1 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 52% to 66% Watering: 1000 ml. 22-3 Temps: 18.8 to 23.2 degrees Humidity: 55% to 70% Set the strength of the light from 45% to 50% 23-3 Temps: 19 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 57% to 71%
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6 weeks in veg from seedling
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Start of flowering week 1. This girl is already bigger then her round 1 sister and she's starting to stretch after just a few days of 12/12 light. The only nutrient difference this grow, will be the addition of sensizym, hopefully it helps pack on a few more grams per plant.
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Week 6 of flower and once again, some excellent bulking going on here, I was happy with it.
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@AsNoriu
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Day 43. Light is on max output, heat enormous and they RUN !!!! thought intensity will stop them a bit , but i think i do only worse ... We have +30 heatwave in UK, i live in attic , so for 4 more days everything will be out of control. Watered today. 6.3 phed water. I love simple and affordable Mars Hydro products, if you can cope with heat TSL2000 can do magic in your tent ! Will update after heat wave us over. Should be in 4 days back to +20 ;))) Day 45. They GROW !!!! Distance is insanly small, but i have 30 cm of space left, wont move light for a week, then i will try to have 20 cm at least again. Planing last top up, need two more waterings before it, so it should be on last day of this or first of next week. Thinking to take down all LST at that time, need pots to breath better, too thin fabric, they dont keep form. Day 47. Drink every two days !!! 4 liters goes to nothing !!! Huge, still streching, tops almost rubbing TS2000, heat 30 inside, humidity 65-68 ..... will need heavy clearing again !!! Devil is looking droopy because was just watered. Happy Growing !!!!
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Una semana más listos para enseñar a nuestras pequeñas Cada día más flores, más fuertes, más tricomas!! Gran genética para el gran colocon q promete
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Siguen estirando y formando muchos brotes gordos!!
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Ok had a long week various problems with humidty and temp issues led me to upgrade tent from 1.2 x 1.2 to a new 2.4 x 1.2 x 2.0 also changed the flower lights to the x 2 viparspectar 450 reflectors along with the new white lighting 315 watt cdm all in one light with there 4k flower pro bulb the plants are loving the new space and abundance of lights any tips comments etc feel free to msg
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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Forrest: And then, for no particular reason, the plants started to smell. Jenny: I'm a whore. (Next line?)
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They're all showing signs of sex now♀️ Definitely stunted them during the week due to a timer issue but hopefully we can make up for it during the rest of flower🤷‍♂️🏽 Really bushy plants that I need to defoliate sometime during this week. ✂️🌿