This week we are only in cruise control, we did the last irrigation with fertilizers and we are planning the flushing for the next week. We also had problems with humidity due to the weather. We don't have a dehumidifier, so we try other homemade techniques to solve the situation. The flowers have gained some weight and are changing the smell. We are excited for the harvest.

Not much growin on this week just watering and letting them grow. Smells like actual skittles A lot of hidden bud sites because of plant structure (my bad, overtrained in previous weeks) Increasing light to 80% Nutrients in previous week and next week

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

The Bananas are hanging! Stay tuned!

10/19/24 started

Giving them half a gallon once. Every 4 days now with smaller amounts of added 19-4-23 to every other watering

A lot more happening this week! As shown in the pics, and as suspected, I have a manganese deficiency. I've been keeping my pH level at 6.2 in coco, manganese is taken up best by the plant below 6.0 pH. Dropping my ph level to 5.8 pH, and flushing with lower pH, hopefully it will solve the issue over the course of a few days. I made a new frame for a SCROG, with a "custom bend" in the CPVC pipe on both ends. The bend will allow me to take advantage of the slack material in the sides of my 4x4 tent. I'd previously taken 4" out of all the upright poles to shorten the tent so it would fit in the room due to low ceilings, meaning I had extra slack in my tent walls. The bend in the net frame pushes the sides of the tent out to 5 foot wide. My first SCROG net was a 6" mesh from Amazon, immediately knew I wanted a smaller mesh. Next time around I built my own with a 4" mesh and used the 4" for several grows. This time I decided to go with an even smaller, 3" mesh, and already I like it better. I don't really see myself going much smaller than 3" mesh though. It seems to work well, and any smaller and it may be too tight trying to work the plant through the opening sometimes, which if not careful, will damage the plant. I usually use a & gal cloth pot, grow off rules stated we 0had to use a 5 gal pot. Seeing as I only had 7 gal on hand, I was stuck picking up a Root Farm 5 gal cloth pot locally, as you can see, the roots didn't really stay contained, nor did they "air prune", i had to tear them off before installing the net above. On the last day of week 6 I finally got my net installed, and the plant SCROGged. I should have put the net in place a week or two earlier, it would have been easier to manipulate the plant, however the plant will still have a week to recover. I tie the net in place above the plant, and slowly lower it down, as I bend and super crop the main stalk over parallel to the net, and work all the branches underneath and spread them out. As the plant grows I'll continue to push branches back down through the net and moving them out to the next hole. This will greatly increase yields by allowing light to more bud sites, keeping all buds the same height and thus the same distance from the light. small budsites on a vertical branch, will transform into their own cola once the branch is laid on its side. Instead of a Christmas tree type of plant, with one large main cola, and smaller and smaller buds as you move further down the plant, you end up with a bunch of colas that are all close to the same size, and more importantly, the same level of maturity. The SCROG method, combined with super cropping, and defoliation has greatly increased my yields. As the plant is getting worked into the net, I'll defoliate where necessary, ie a huge fan leaf covering bud sites, however for the next several weeks I'll be defoliating so mush every night or two, systematically trimming off all fan leaves, and stripping everything below the net, and any small bud sites that wont produce well. Usually by the time I'm half way through the flower stage there are no big fan leaves left to be found. It helps with light penetration, which results in a higher quality, higher quantity yield, as well as airflow, which will help prevent White Powdery Mildew and other molds etc. Once a fan leaf is 14 days old, its ability to photosynthesize light, starts to degrade. Once it reaches a certain point, the leaf drains more energy from the plant, than it's giving the plant. My best yields have been from heavily defoliated plants, my last grow I couldn't physically defoliate quite as heavily as usual, and I ended up about 25-30% less bud than expected

Blackberry No NPK Organic grow Living soil

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Day 8. From this attemt all 3 made it, but two plants look weakish, from other 2 only 1 seed is out. Not a fantastic start ;) maybe they will catch up later ! Installed tent, light dimmed to 30% of 240W, distance approx 40 cm. Happy Growing !!!

Day 0. Got few presents from Mars Hydro New lights TS1000, was very happy, that she has dimmer and current price make her a good grab New Mars tent, they a great and last few years easy, tested not once. Great AMS strain, always wanted to grow few more Chocolope after my first diary here. Day 1. Girls is out and looks happy ;) Happy Growing !

***DIVINE SEEDS ***** *****OPIUM***** Week 22 For my outside ladies, Opium, Fractal, and Lemon Cake These gals are weathered. Opium is taller than I can see (over 6.5 feet) but from my dining room window, I see the top 3 inches of her main cola is dead. Many dead leaves packed in the buds. Her colas on all stems are massive, sticky and resinous. My plan was to wash and make bubble hash from her. Temperatures should be dropping into the 70 with nights in the 60’s but have returned to the upper 80-90 with high humidity. This week rain is expected every day following another hurricane. That was the determining factor to chop all outside girls down. All the plants were chopped on Sept 12. Opium hung in the dark for 2 days and when Hubby started trimming up Opium he found dark areas deep in the buds and much of the bud mass just fell off. So both Lemon Cake and Opium have been tossed into the trash. I don’t even want to compost the plants in the event spores over winter. I hate losing any plant after I spent so much time growing them out but I won’t risk health over questionable harvests. I did an initial spot check on Fractal and she looked clean, but is being trimmed for a thorough inspection for any disease. These ladies had a long vegetative phase. Probably too long since I started them in April so they would be hardened off before I went on vacay in May. Three months of veg caused massive vegetative growth, especially on Opium deep in the buds.. The various breeder notes on photos indicate late September or October harvest. So that was in the back of my mind during this grow. All of them were in flower by early July. Light hours were over 14.5 and won’t be at 12/12 until September 26 (2 more weeks). I’m sure the plants were confused by the long veg and just said "Hell, I'm going for it" and started early flowering. I grew them too long waiting for the trichomes to develop. 👉Note for next year start seeds later in spring. 👉Plan start date based on counting back from the vernal equinox. 👉Based on such a long growing season, Autos may be preferable to finish quickly and not have extended vegetation phase before flower. Thank you @DivineSeeds for the opportunity to grow your exotic strains. I wish I could have completed the grow with a smoke report. I was looking forward to being daydreamy psychedelically stoned, not to mention killing my chronic pain and insomnia. I do have more seeds and will try again in a controlled environment and trying topping or mainlining to keep her shorter and more manageable. Thank you friends for the visits, likes and comments, I appreciate all of you💚. Sending love, light, and healing 💫 💫Natrona 💫

Verrückte Woche! Woche 9 wollte die Sonne nicht so richtig raus, dafür war von leichtem Nieselregen bis Hagel alles dabei. Nur scheiße hat es nicht geregnet. Die Sonne kam erst die letzten beiden Tage wieder raus. Der erste Tag der Woche D58/37F begann direkt mit ordentlich Regen und fettem Hagel. Man konnte halt nur zuschauen und hoffen das die Ladys es halbwegs gut überstehen. Der extreme Regen mit Hagel war nur für 10-15 min, hat aber etwas an Schaden an den Blättern angerichtet. Am meisten hat die GorillaZkittlez gelitten. Dadurch das sie schon ziemlich fertig ist, sind auch die Blätter nicht mehr so elastisch und brechen leichter. Sonst haben die ladys das erste Unwetter in dieser Woche überstanden. Direkt am nächsten Tag D59/38F hab ich mich gewundert was da unten an dem Blatt hängt. Es waren ein Haufen voll Wanzeneiern... das Blatt und die die zu zerstört vom Hagel waren wurden entfernt. Bis auf das die Blätter hier und da ein paar kleine Punkte von dem Hagel haben, sehen die Ladys gesund aus. An Tag 61/40F war der nächste große Regen. Hier war ich einfach nur dankbar das es nicht nochmal gehagelt hat🤣 trotzdem kacke. Es war sehr viel Regen. Nächsten Tag D62/41F war der erste Tag ohne Regen und die Sonne kam auch wieder raus. Es gab eine kleine Kontrolle der Ladys nach den Tagen voller Unwetter. Ich hatte bei der GorillaZkittlez einen braunen auffälligen Punkt entdeckt. Wer hätte es gedacht nach dem ganzen Regen... ein Bud hatte leider Schimmelbildung. Der wurde großzügig entfernt. Ein zwei andere Stellen die verdächtig aussahen wurden zur Sicherheit rausgeschnitten. Bei der StrawberryBanana hatte ich nur die Spitze von einem Bud abgeschnitten der verdächtig aussah und 2-3 Blätter die Ansätze von Mehltau hatten. Die GorillaAuto ist ein entspannter Mitläufer. Kein Stress mit Schimmel oder Mehltau. An Tag 63/42F gab es das erste Mal wieder Wasser aus der Gießkanne. Als Zusätze gab es 4g BioEnhancer von GreenHouseFeeding, 4ml PowerBuds, 1ml GreenSensation von Plagron, 6ml BioBloom von BioBizz, 8ml StickyFingers von XpertNutrients auf 4L Wasser. Das ganze auf ph 6.8 Jede Lady hat unterschiedlich viel bekommen. Ich hab nach Gewicht der Töpfe gegossen. Die einzige die nichts bekommen hat, ist die GorillaZkittlez. Ich denke das die gute in den nächsten Tagen geerntet wird und in die Trocknung geht bevor sie auf der Zielgeraden nochmal in den Regen kommt. Für die nächsten Tage ist kein Regen vorausgesagt. Wenn das so ist wird sie denke ich in zwei Tagen zum trocknen gehängt💚 Die StrawberryBanana wird denke ich in ca zwei Wochen in die Trocknung und danach die GorillaAuto. Die Ladys sollen sich die Zeit nehmen die sie brauchen💪🏻 Vielen Dank fürs reinschauen 💚🤙🏻

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Week 7 green space looking lovely

Week 12 9th of may: I cut off the main cola of the Green Gelato and left smaller buds to grow more. Hulkberry is Sativa dominant so I will give her more time Royal Gorilla is almost ready

Que hay de nuevo familia, os traigo la actualización de la semana de nuestras crazy cookies, increíble el tamaño que están alcanzando los centrales, hay que tener bastante cuidado con los nutrientes, si te pasas un poco te lo harán saber. Tienen un olor bastante peculiar, estas últimas semanas desarrollará todos sus terpenos. Ph seguimos controlándolo alrededor de 6.5 temperatura algo elevará y humedad perfecta por debajo de los 40%. No creo que tarden mucho en estar siguen engordando y formando esas flores, la semana que viene veremos cómo avanzan fumetillas.

Pretty happy with the outcome so far. This style of growing will not yield the the most or greatest stuff due to all the stress but it's for the looks. And this girl looked awesome. Very happy with this grow and looking forward to doing something else. Think I will do a photo period next so I have more control. Thanks for following!!

The Tropicana Cookies has been doing awesome she's flowering great despite the humidity she's been doing amazing under the fold 6 by medic grow an deff been thriving with these cronk nutrients