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First week of flower is in the books. I posted my feeding schedule in the pics above. If you find yourself looking at it wondering why you're seeing back to back feeds with mycos or teas its because with organics you never want to let your pots dry out. You obviously dont want to waterlog the pots but you need to find that balance with watering so as to keep your ecosystem happy and active. It's not a feed/water/water system where you're watering every other day as you do with salt based bottled nutrients. Always remember you're feeding the microboes/fungi/bactria and they are feeding your plants. If you dry your pots out with organics those elements become dormant and or die off which will lead to deficiencies and a weakened immune system. The week was going smoothly until last night. The timer for whatever reason didnt kill the lights after 12 hrs had past so they got a little over an hr of extra light. To help maintain consistency with the plants I just altered on/off times to make sure they still recieved 12 hrs of darkness. So I was running 6pm-6am now with the overage last night I'm running 730pm-730am. I have heard some horror stories about how something like this has affected people's plants but they are few and far between. I'm not overly worried about it as a plant thats growing outdoors never gets a true 12/12 lighting period. I caught it early, adjusted my lighting schedule to accommodate a 12 hr off period, and being so early in the flowering stage I should be ok. Obviously it goes without saying but this is taboo and not something you want to be making a habit of with photoperiod plants. My dehumidifier also decided to do it's own thing last night and didn't shut off as per the settings (set to 45%) and as a result it pulled my humidty down to 39% down from the 45%-47% that the room usually runs at. As a result my temps rose into the 28-29 Celsius range overnight up from the 25-26 Celcius (my preferred flowering temps) that the room usually sees. So she was quite the party downstairs while I was sleeping. To my surprise when I turned the lights on the plants looked very happy and healthy and immediately started praying to the sun gods. I got lucky here with respect to what I was speaking about above with watering practices and organics. As I keep my pots in the sweet spot with daily waterings this didnt negatively affect the plants. I've prepped and am bubbling a compost tea (posted a video) which will be fed tomorrow. I also through some organic popcorn seeds and organic mung bean seeds in the seed sprouter (pic posted above) to make a popcorn/mung bean SST for the plants that's loaded with all kinds of enzymes and goodness. It's also pretty sweet to be able to say you feed your plants popcorn. Like I mean really though 😁. I'll talk a little more about SSTs next week but if your curious about it there are many websites about this topic, homesteadandchill.com would be a great place to start. They lightly touch on topic without diving to deep into the science behind it so it's easy reading to help introduce you.
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@Facocero
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ƈ appena cominciata la 3°settimana, le mie bimbe crescono molto benešŸ˜.. A breve comincerò con LST! Aggiornamento: Ieri sera ho effettuato topping su tutte e tre le piantine, in giornata inizierò LST per riuscire ad esporre il più possibile alla luce le foglie tra gli internodi! Ultimo aggiornamento: Ormai e quasi finita anche la 3°settimana, ho iniziato LST da un paio di giorni, ho notato che le prime foglioline presentano delle piccole macchie marroni ma credo che sia normale considerando che si tratta delle foglie più vecchie.. Per il resto le piantine sembrano in ottima salute!šŸ’Ŗ
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Day 95 GDP harvested and starting dry process. Day 95 for the Tropicana cookies purple auto and northern thunderfuck auto. Both looking great. Tropicana really starting to reek the whole tent out sweet funky arouma. Looks light it’s starting to fade out nitrogen as well šŸ¤ž Northern is stacking up buds hopefully will continue fattening for a couple more weeks. Soil all the flower tents look very alive and healthy. Lots of wigglers thriving under the mulch layer.
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~ GG4 SHERBET FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "Bred from extremely potent and flavorful Gorilla Glue and Orange Sherbet genetics, GG4 Sherbet FF (Fast-Flowering) takes all the best traits to the next level, offering a high-yielding strain that can produce up to 600 g/m2 in a 7-week flowering time. This super resilient Indica-leaning hybrid thrives indoors and outdoors, and in all types of climates while producing mouth-watering sweet, fruity, spicy and earthy terps that translate into a delicious sugary hazelnut aroma. Expect an extremely relaxing and overall happy effect that’ll leave you with a huge smile from ear to ear. It’s the perfect strain for growers of all levels of experience seeking low-maintenance yet highly productive photoperiod varieties that deliver quality and quantity without extra effort. GG4 Sherbet FF grows chunky buds with long dark orange hairs and spade-shaped calyxes that get encrusted with trichomes by harvest time, giving them a gorgeous silvery-white appearance. This medium-sized photoperiod can reach up to 200 cm in height and yields up to 650 g/m2 while developing that typical hybrid structure. GG4 Sherbet FF grows with a stocky, bushy appearance, developing one sturdy main cola and fat side branches that support huge yields without much effort. This super-fast variety produces distinctive light-green buds with a high bud-to-leaf ratio, making your trimming sessions a breeze. It’s a top-notch resin producer that doesn’t need much maintenance and will thrive in almost every climate, rewarding growers of all levels with extremely flavorful resin that makes for outstanding hash end extracts." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!šŸ¤ŖšŸ’š ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 5/16- The FastBuds GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower is going into Week Seven from seed now and is looking so much better with our weather steadily improving! I started brewing a batch of Compost Tea today which should be ready in 24-36 hours, after which I'll give the GG4 Sherbet FF a treat! 5/18- Yesterday, I gave the GG4 Sherbet a healthy drink of the freshly brewed Compost Tea which will benefit the microbes in her soil greatly! My Compost Tea recipe is as follows: In a doubled up mesh bag I put in 2 cups of wiggle worm castings, 1 cup of Alfalfa Meal, 1/2 cup of Dr. Earth 4-4-4 dry amendment w/beneficial mycorrhizae, 1 tbsp. Stash Blend, 1 tbsp. Plantonics Amino Bliss. Then in a 5g bucket filled with 68-74℉ non-chlorinated well water (which I do not adjust ph on, if it's good enough for me to drink... it's good enough for my plants) I add 4 tbsp. of unsulfured black strap molasses and 4 tbsp. of liquid Kelp Extract. I then aerate the water via a pump and large round air stone and hang the mesh bag so that it stays suspended above the bottom of the bucket and so the air bubbles can surround it. I then cover the bucket and leave it alone for 24-36 hrs after which there should be a generous layer of foam in the bucket which indicates that your tea is ready to serve! 5/20- I'm almost certain that slugs are the culprits of all of the leaf chewing that has occurred on the GG4 Sherbet FF. I only wish I had figured it out sooner but, on the bright side, this is a photoperiod and she has plenty of time to recover so she'll be just fine. Yesterday, once I figured out that I was facing a slug attack, I immediately deployed my favorite defense against slugs and other little soft bodied buggers and their larvae... Diatomaceous Earth. This stuff is death to fungus gnat larvae, along with other pest larvae and will ruin a slugs day quickly! If you look at diatomaceous earth under magnification, it resembles shards of glass and acts as the same on the soft bodies of pests either repelling, or killing them! 5/22- Our weather has dried out and warmed up so I'm watering daily with well water straight from the garden hose. With seven weeks of growth now for the GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower, she just keeps looking better by the day and in a month you won't recognize her! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! šŸ’šGrowers Love!šŸ’ššŸ˜ŽšŸ™
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@Rene1968
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6-3: The first day at a new week of flowering (Day 35 of Flowering). The girls groing very well. The buds gets bigger and bigger and I like de polyp Bud very much. :)
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Here we are in week six of flower and not a lot has happen this week other than the usual watering and letting her do her thing. Only trouble this week was updating GoPro had to try a few times. Other than that we got some rain in my home town and collected about 60 gallons that I'm going to use to finish the rest of the grow. Also, got my new AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet Inline Duct Fan System with Temperature and Humidity Controller, 4-Inch. I was really hoping this two plants would finish before the year ended, however, it looks like they got others plans. See you guys next week.
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@Jack22
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What do you think about these first days? The humidity is not much stable but I’m planning to buy a humidifier in the next week.
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Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 25°C to 35°C depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 40°C, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently. E=MC2 looks like a simple multiplication problem; it describes a fundamental physical truth: mass and energy are the same thing. The equation doesn't just calculate a value; it reveals that mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. Because the universe runs on laws of symmetry (specifically, that the laws of physics don't change over time), a single global number must be conserved. We call that number "energy". We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversion. How well a seedling grows is essentially down to how much knowledge one can acquire to increase the level of conversion to occur. Applying knowledge effectively requires intuition, which comes from hands-on experience. A seasoned stoner learns to read subtle signs—like a slight change in leaf turgor (stiffness), subtle color shifts, or the specific texture of the soil—before a textbook diagnosis can be made. Ultimately, growing is the application of botanical science blended with active observation. Knowledge dictates your potential, but adaptability and attentiveness to the plant's immediate environment determine your results. 1.618 nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. External vibration or electromagnetic wave that perfectly matches a plant's natural frequency directly influences plant growth. Low-frequency sound waves and targeted electromagnetic fields stimulate cellular processes and boost photosynthetic efficiency Does it produce better yields? How long is a piece of string? As long as you cut it. But isssss the juice worth the squeeze? The quantum framework of the IVM seems to think so. Good enough for the quantum firmware, good enough for the DNA software. Genetics are not dictated; they are expressed; the rate of that expression is dictated by the environment in which growth occurs. Quantum Coherence in Photosynthesis occurs When a photon of sunlight strikes a leaf, the energy it carries must travel to a reaction center to be converted into chemical energy. This process operates at nearly 100% efficiency. If the energy moved in a traditional "bunching" or random hopping manner, a large portion of it would be lost as heat. Instead, plants utilize quantum superposition. The energy particle (exciton) doesn't just take one path; it exists in a wave state and explores multiple pathways simultaneously. It essentially "chooses" the most efficient route to the reaction center simultaneously. Research shows that molecular vibrations and the specific network arrangements of chlorophyll molecules (like the naturally evolved Chlorophyll A & B ratios) actively protect against energy overflow, optimizing light capture across different light intensities. Enzymes are the biological catalysts that speed up chemical reactions within a plant's cells, allowing them to grow, metabolize, and repair. Rather than relying solely on the classical kinetic energy of molecules colliding, plants use quantum tunneling. Subatomic particles like electrons and protons (hydrogen ions) can literally "teleport" through energy barriers that they normally wouldn’t have the energy to climb over. This makes vital metabolic reactions happen far faster than classical physics could ever explain. Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue) and at 647nm(Red). If we take the blue peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm, Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ If we take chlorypyhll b's Red absorption peak 647nm and a UV-A of 400nm, we get 647/400=1.618 Φ. "Structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Synergistic. But Shhh, it's a secret. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. This fascinating observation is rooted in the intersection of subatomic geometry, fractal scaling, and quantum dynamics. In specific molecular arrangements—such as in conjugated polymer networks or biomolecular architectures—the Golden Ratio (PHI) naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Mathematically tied to the fine-structure constant, which defines the strength of the electromagnetic interaction. The Golden Ratio can be mapped geometrically as the Golden Angle (137.5 degrees) in atomic structures, linking the charge of the electron to fundamental quantum constants like Planck's constant. Electromagnetic. The Golden Angle (137.5): This angle is derived from the Golden Ratio (1.618). It is the smaller of two angles created when a circle is divided such that the ratio of the arcs equals the Golden Ratio.
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@Hawkbo
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This one was transplanted a couple days after the bigger ones so still small just hoping it builds its roots before pre flower. They all got moved into the 4x4 with the jimmy rigged 180w quantum board light built from ceiling tile grid. The tnb co2 is newish but I gotta get the heat up and bring in a more powerful light to take full advantage.
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@Evi1tek9
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I flushed them on day 48 with straight R/O water No more nutes, hoping to get a good 10-14 day flush Swelling more and more each day, getting more and more frosty each day
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@MarcGrows
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3-4 weeks to go and things are looking great in tent 1 where I have 2 Peyote Gorilla girls in an Earthbox. The stretching is complete, and the girls are finishing. This tent was a breeze. No issues with growth and a lot of nutrition the plant can use to finish. Colas are stacking and beefing up... trichomes are very evident and I believe this plant is very happy. I water the humis layer with 1/4 gallon of rainwater to keep moist. However tent 2 is a different story. I noted that the plant was undergoing severe chlorosis. I believe this is due to my re-use of this earthbox jr, has created such a strong root structure from this and previous grows, that the plant cannot uptake nutrients as required. There is plenty of nutrition in the box and I added a small amount (1/4 cup) of Craft Blend mixed with Naranja that I milled and some gnarly barley, a malted seed meal that was germinated and then stopped to trap the seed hormones and prepares the starches to be converted into fermentable sugars. So I know there is great nutrition to the plant available but something else is preventing uptake. I don't use bottled nutrients so I must wait for the food to breakdown and become plant available. At this point of maturity I want to be careful with Nitrogen... I have seen such weird affects that may cause lockout, and foxtailing and new bud growth as the plant is finishing. I will watch carefully as the plant senesces, as bud development is far ahead of development in size compared to tent 1.
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@dreamLife
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momento preciso en que cague la planta con sobre fertilización, después de esta última alimentación se vieron los efectos del daño.
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@ZalySk
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Good plant, done in 60 days this time. Wish I saved a clone. Drying at 60%rh and 65°. It was supposed to be a mother plant that was producing clones but ended up putting into flower anyway. It had a rough life and end up going to flower twice during veg which caused multiple rounds of monster cropping on top of each other and required lots of trimming and training.