Not the prettiest girl in the show, but where she lacks in beauty she picks up in straight gassy fumees. Very nice trichome coverage. She reeks. Although they both absolutely stank I feel like I smell this deep rotten fuel over the other. Would definently consider running again to cross it to something more pretty or maybe to see if I can get any other purple phenos from it!

O fenótipo #1 foi colhido com 56 dias. O fenótipo #2 foi remanejado e permanece na tenda por mais uma ou duas semanas.

Week 8 saw the plant stack on some very nice starter buds. I can already see where the colas will stack and fill out to form lovely nuggets by the end of the run. They look to be dense already which is always a great sign! Weather here in OK has been vacillating between overcast rainy days and full sun not-a-cloud-in-the-sky weather so she has spent an equal amount of time under an HID as she did the sun since the last update. Usually she is outdoors from 11am to sundown and then I move her inside under the HID for night hours. She gets a four hour lights off in early morning before setting her back out in time to catch the noon sun. It seems to have worked pretty well splitting her time in this way and I feel a lot better about it than if I just let her spend 24/7 outside. I feel her auto genetics would not benefit from the extra dark time associated with a pure outdoor run. She already doesn't get full sun for the entirety of her time outside due to trees and other houses blocking sun during certain parts of the day. This seems to be a nice balance but I realize it doesn't qualify as a true outdoor run. Still doing daily checks for aphids and other undesirables as Oklahoma has lots of them that can devastate a plant in a matter of days if not monitored closely. I keep her a good distance from my other outdoor plants and she never touches the ground. So far so good. I did lollipop her toward the middle of this week and proceeded the next day with aggressive defoliation to open up light penetration to the rest of the mid-section. As always, the cultivar responded well to my interference. I am seeing some rusty spots on otherwise green leaves and some very light yellowing of the plant overall. I hit her with another dose of nutrients and some recharge to hopefully correct. Not sure what the rusty spots are; hoping just some pH flux that will be easy to correct. Any insight from those who might have it, is welcomed! Thanks for following along and please click "Like" below if you dig what I'm doing here. Cheers! 👊🌱☮️✌️

Finally the end of the sixth week. I had very bright, slightly yellow leaves because i had given too much light and too little fertilizer. The lamp was then turned down to 80W and raised to 50cm height, so that the plant could calm down again. I also corrected the amount of fertilizer. Now she looks happier again 😇 Thanks also to @Seedler, I "tucked" the leaves under the buds and it worked very well. 🌱🌱🌱 Grow Hard. Go Pro.

The bud sites are filling in quickly, excited to see how they develop further. Smooth sailing, easy fun grow. Got a little over 13" tall. Super short, curious to see how much yield she gets.

😘 😘 😘

Loved the strain she was super strong attacked by a cat a cuple of times and she really grow well after that 62cm so yes, I think is strong, she smells like cream and fruis i dry her for 4 days with herbdryer i was fast bit didnt hold the smell , the yield was very good to 34 grams ready for the jars, I took some lower buds and smoke them , the flavor is just how she smells , like cream with fruit tones that come and go wile the cream sensation stays in your mouth, i love this kinda flavors , the effects are active at the beginning with a rush of energy ,but if you stop then relaxing is coming like you want to see a movie and eat a lot ahahha well thats my first impression i know the smell and taste is going to get better with time so for now this is what i can say , what a good strain fast Buds!💚👌🏻🌲👐🏻👊🏻

UPDATE: - Day/Night temperature differential is starting to bring out the purple colors. - Trichomes are mostly cloudy, just waiting on some ambers to harvest. - Did some defoliation to allow light at the lower growths in its last week GENETICS: -Free seeds from MSNL. Being used to test my system. CLIMATE: - Ambient Air Temp = 27/28'C ~ 26/27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C - Night Temp = 21/22'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C - Under Canopy Temp: 26'C (Day) ~ 21'C (Night) - Relative Humidity = 55-65%RH (Avg. 60%RH) - VPD = 1.30kPa (Avg.) - Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm) AIR PRESSURE: - Ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = 1015 mbars (101.5 Kilopascals) - Actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = 980-1005 mbars (980-100.5 Kilopascals) - Air Pressure Differential = ranging from -10 to -35 mbars (-1 to -3.5 Kilopascals) LIGHT: - 2x full spectrum CREE COBs - At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 40,000-50,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65 NUTRIENTS: - Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on) - Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym) - Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae) ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES: - Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course. - Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away) - No HST. INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL: Infection control practices i.e -PPE, Alcohol Hand wash -Gray room outside tent, -Carbon filter -HEPA filter -Plasma Ionizer -Inline UV-C germicidal bulb - Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. - Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. - Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak (No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)

One month into flower. Was Going smoothly. Nutes seemed to be on point.

Strawberry Amnesia has sprouted and is looking good. Also looks like she is displaying a mutation in her first node of leaves. Everything is going well. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Herbies seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

24 Oct 2021 Week 16 began yesterday, but the first watering of the week was today. I’m keeping up with the flush, starting the 2nd week today. Hopefully I’ll be able to harvest in a few days. My Trio is looking really lovely. Their buds are covered in trichomes that glisten under the lights. They are starting to darken in color in some areas like their mother did. They may take on some pinkish/purple hues before it’s all done. Some of their leaves are turning purple as well. The sugar leaves are somewhat dark, but still green. All three of them are very nice to look at, and their smell is super strong! It’s really nice in my grow room! Yesterday I went out and got some more of those support sticks from the local home store and provided support for all of the branches that needed it. Which was a lot! I got 7 new support sticks and used them all. All of the branches are now supported and flourishing! Today each of my girls received a gallon of properly pH’ed water, and each had a sufficient amount of runoff from which to gather measurements. The process went as follows: C1 & C2 had an initial pH of 6.9, and C3’s initial pH was 6.8. I added .2ml of pH DOWN to each gallon which adjusted the pH to 6.4 for C1, and 6.3 for C2 and C3. TDS going in was 88 ppm for C1, 86 ppm for C2, and 84 ppm for C3. Runoff measurements were a little weird. The runoff pH for C1 was 5.9. The TDS was (at first) 600 ppm. I thought that was an incredible drop from the other day, so I did it again. It was 603 ppm the second time. Ok, moving along nicely! The runoff for C2 was pH - 5.8, and TDS was 1101 ppm. 😳 That’s a lot more than C1. C3 had a pH of 5.6, and TDS of 1212 ppm. Which is even more; so I measured a little more from C1 again, and the 3rd time it measured 736 ppm. 🤔 That seems weird to me, but I’ll keep an eye on it. If it continues to be that low then I will end up harvesting it before the others which won’t be so terrible. I’ll just have to wait and see. The temperature in the tent was 81F, and humidity was 47%. My ladies are looking lovely and growing better than I could have hoped for. This grow has been awesome, but I can’t wait to be done. Happy growing everyone! 27 Oct 2021 Feeding/flushing time again! I was somewhat perplexed the other day when I got the runoff reading for the TDS in C1. It was 500-600 ppm less than C2 & C3 respectively. Since I was having some issues with the TDS meter I thought that IT may be the cause. I made a note to check on it today, and there seems to be no problem with the TDS meter at all. Keep reading for details. My plants are still looking as lovely as I could ever have hoped for! C1 has started showing more color changes than the other 2, and the only thing I can say the difference is, is that I defoliated some of C1’s larger fan leaves last week, and wasn’t able to do the same for the other 2. That is the ONLY thing I can think of that has been different between all 3 plants this entire grow. Regardless, all 3 plants are looking wonderful! Today each of my lovely ladies received a gallon of property pH’ed water with an expected amount of runoff for testing. The preparation went as follows: C1 & C2 had an initial pH of 6.9, and C3 was at 7.0. I added 0.2ml’s of pH DOWN to each gallon which adjusted the pH of all 3 gallons to 6.3. TDS going in for C1 & C2 was 85 ppm, and C3 was 84 ppm. Runoff levels were different for all three plants. C2’s runoff pH was 5.7, and TDS was 1041 ppm. C3’s pH was 5.6, and TDS was 1059 ppm. Last time C1 was significantly lower than the others, and I thought that maybe it was a TDS meter issue. Evidently it wasn’t. C1’s TDS today was 526 ppm! 😳 still much lower than the others, and pretty much ready for harvest. The temperature in the tent was 81F, and humidity was 43%. Although harvest time is much closer, I don’t believe it will be done in time for this month’s grow diary of the month contest. So sad, but that’s life. Happy growing everyone! See you again soon. 29 Oct 2021 Today is the last day of week 16. I was planning on continuing the flush today, but remembered something that I had forgotten about…. I remembered the branch that had broken off of C1 back on October 10th in week 14. She had held on for well over a week in a can of water, but finally her leaves started to droop. I hung it up all by itself in my small tent to dry. Until today that is! I took it outside and trimmed it on my deck. Even outside, in a pleasant breeze, the amazing smell of this branch was easily detected. It’s kind of windy, rainy, and chilly here today, but still …. That sweet blueberry muffin smell was there. Her buds; still covered in the dried, crystallized trichomes were super sticky! I must admit that they are the stickiest buds I have grown to date. I weighed the dry bud to add to the grand total of C1’s harvest later. Then I ground it up and smoked it. All I am going to say is that from my reaction to smoking it; I have decided that no additional flushing is needed. After all, what I smoked today broke right before I started flushing, and I could taste nothing other than what I would hope to taste. So my fellow Growmies; I am ending this week right here. The next report you will see will be the harvest report!! Stay tuned!

Week 7 of flower 9/20/24 Changed the nutrients on 9/23/24 to fit the ripening stage. Using FinalPart with ProBloom EC 1.3, PH 6-6.2. Checking runoff PH and EC daily (EC 1.25, PH 5.2). Using H2O2 with every watering (to help the PH stabilize at 5.5-6.5 range if there is a root problem). Plant seems happy and not showing necrosis/nutrient burn problems. Hand watering ones a day at the beginning of the light schedule.

Ok all caught up to same gorge as laughing budda I did to separate diary I guess jay tto show they are different but grew well together so far now it should become interesting when turn to flower at end of week

Yo yo yo what's poppin fellas. We now in week 6. Had a little defolliation going today. 3G is my favorite so far. It smells amazing.

30 días del cambio de fotoperiodo Hemos tenido humedad extrema en esta floración , hasta 78% de humedad , queriendo obtener menos de 50% en todo este segundo mes de vida para las #lemonking @eva_seeds 🏆💡Bajo el mejor mix de luces del mercado 480w 3500k💯 #samsungquantumboards UV / 660 / iR 👈🏼💥 #epistar Posible gracias a los grandes @leds.mk . 🦐🍤S.A.R mode on! Libre de patógenos y libre de stress gracias a @trichomemania y el poderoso quitosano , manteniendo a las plantas firmes y de tallos fuertes ! Ademas beneficia en resina + tricomas + terpenos ! Uuuuffff! . Cada vez menos , te amo y amaré en los buenos momentos y malos que pasamos , ha sido un lindo proyecto y la verdad me encantó cultivar una sativa como esta en mi primera vez . Amen , acepten y fluyan. Tierra madre y sol padre , bendecidos gracias a tu bello paraíso ... 👉🏼estamos en #growdiaries con el mismo nombre @greenwolvesfarmer 👈🏼🙅‍♀️ . . . . #seguimientomkled #cannabisfamily #greenwolvesfarmer #weedgrower #cultivoindoor #cultivointerior #indoorgarden #ledchile #cultivoledchile #chilecultivoled #cultivamedicina #medicinanatural #chilecultiva #nomaspresosporplantar #growdiaries #growdiary #cannabisgrowers #quantumboard #chileautocultivo #480w #quantumboards #comunidadcannabica #cannabiscomunity #evaseeds #mkledchile #ledpanel #mkled

Letting them finish out. Just don’t miss a watering

Me está resultando muy útil tener el TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X ya que puedo tener una visualización rápida de la temperatura y la humedad en tiempo real, y también de las últimas 24 horas y de los últimos 7 días (week) Así puedo ir ajustando la extracción para tener una VPD ideal, y tener una pantalla que te indica si estás en rango, en función de si estás en Fase Vegetativa, Floración o Stress Es genial a su vez tener un tabla / grafico visual de VPD en función de las fases. Mira las últimas fotos para ver esta tabla tan interesante! ("Trolmaster VPD Graph" photo) ------------------------------------------------- Día 34 (19/02) Pasamos a 12/12 😁 Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 1 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 875 PPMs - pH 6,28 Día 36 (21/02). Las plantas están explotando en crecimiento vertical! 2,5 cm al día 😍💥 Dia 38 (23/02). Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 1 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 875 PPMs - pH 6,28 He decidido subir el riego a 1,25 litros porque se muestran sedientas! Día 39 (24/02) Muestra las preflores y no para de estirarse! 😍😍😍🐎 💦Nutrients by Gen1:11 - www.genoneeleven.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae ️️🎚️Controlled by TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X System Main Controller - https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1