Harvest for Peyote Vally #2 Flushed and coming down Saterda Well she is down for harvest!!

FAT BANANA 🍌 AUTO / RQS WEEK #13 OVERALL WEEK #8 FLOWER This week was the last week for this lady been flushing her to get her ready for harvest. She's looking good buds covered with trichomes she's smelling fierce 😉 makes your mouth water. Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you RQS!! FAT BANANA 🍌 AUTO / RQS

Steady as she goes 🎶 Looking very hairy now day 17 of flower. Don't know what to say really first grow. But looks good so far. Pheno B and C get 4 litres of water each to fill em up for the week. Pheno A gets 1 litre. No bud smell as of yet. Some sparkly crystal forming. Early days yet 420V

Trichomes are turning amber slowly. Had some pH issues which the leaves did not enjoy. Also cut back on the EC - down to 1.3 now. Harvest next week!

2/2 12am Hotel is looking great, got a great feeling about this.

Holy! Gorilla Cookies has really changed since last week. This plant is the size of a small child now, the buds are massive. There is a lot of fading and dead leaves becoming more prevalent. She is definitely coming to an end but still not seeing amber trichomes. Humidity is back down to the 50s and I’m checking for mold every day.

Nothing special going on, just keeping humidity and temps low. I’ve started adding Overdrive to the feed. Been checking the trichs a lot. Compared to my other plants, they’re getting really big.

I didn’t take pictures before defoliation but these pics are from after the fact So you can only imagine. So many bud sites she should be stacked!!! The game plan is to move her into a 5 gallon once I get a chance this week. Glacial, 2-8-4 and some kelp meal will be used.

Into week three of flowering: - Need to up CalMg this week cause all my last grows with this strain the plants were stressing and showing signs of Mg deficiency I think. - The buds are stacking up pretty tight. - The top of the plant is showing some red veins AGAIN, don't know if it is genetics? Or is it too much light? ANY SUGGESTIONS? - Usually what happens is that after week three top of plant will show red veins and some leaves will turn light green yellow. What type of deficiency is this? Thanks in advance for the help. Happy growing, BM 4TwenTee *****Update on LIGHT STRESS:***** Okay I think I got this figured out. Since my plant is showing the following symptoms: - Slow yellowing of top of cannopy - Fan leaves pointing up in a steep angle - Leaves are tacoing up a bit with sharp pointy serrated leaves pointing up - Veins are turning purple and some leaves are showing green veins and yellowing of outer part of the leaf REASONS FOR THE SYMPTOMS: - Since the light is too close to the top of the canopy, although my light is running at around 60% and it is at least a meter away from the light. I think because this was a mother and basically she is accustomed to top canopy PAR of around 180-220 and she was measuring around 600PAR so that is just too much for the plant to handle. So I've lowered the light output so the top canopy is around 420 PAR. - Also my humidity is pretty high at around 72% so I lowered it to around 65% - The reason why the leaves are tacoing up to the light is because the canopy cannot take the high PAR, the temp at the top of the canopy is only 76F so that is acceptable, but the plant is trying the sweat due to the high PAR, but because the humidity was also too high it was not sweating as much as it should. - The reason why a light stressed plant shows different deficiencies eg. magnesium and phosphate is due to the "extra sweating" that takes place, cannabis plants don't choose what they intake, if they need more water to sweat, extra nutrients will be absorbed and this will lockout some of the other nutrients in the solution. **End of week update: Tried multiple changes but still no luck on getting rid of red leaf stem. - Added a 1 hour sunrise and sundown light regiment - Decreased Humidity to 65% from low 70's - Top of canopy PAR decreased from 600 to 350. Leaves red stems still not going away and top of canopy still trying to get rid of moisture with fan leaves pointing up. If anyone can chime in that would be great thanks.

Hu

Things are going well , almost done 2 weeks of flowering already tops are forming up nicely very excited to see what the future hold in store for me with these 2 lovely ladies I might start training them soon depending on growth so stay tuned for that ! Thanks for coming by and reading ! -Happy Growing!

Day 71 - Starting week 11 today and this could possibly be her last week or maybe one more. Still has a bit of white pistils but they’re fading away. I’m mostly focusing on the trichs though and still still a few clear in there but not many. She’s probably at about 90-5-5, milky, amber, clear so I’m just gonna keep an eye on her for now. She did get 2 gallons of plain water tonight and I’ll check trichs again when she’s dried out. Day 73 - Might give this girl another full week but not sure yet. Waiting for her to dry out and still checking the trichs and she’s not ready just yet, colors are amazing though. Day 74 - Nothing much new today, just letting her go until the trichs are to my liking. Will probably give her another round of water tomorrow and thinking she’ll get the axe in about a week or so. Day 75 - She’s not quite ready for the chop yet so gave her a gallon of water with 40ML of Sugardaddy and 2.5ML of Magical for the final 7ish days. Day 76 - A lot of trichs amber’d up last night and looking like I’m going to give this girl a couple more days, gonna wait for her to dry out then will chop her down. Other than that, she looks and smells gorgeous. Day 77 - The end of week 11 and looking to chop her a few days into the next week, probably New Year’s Eve but we’ll see how she looks and may end up doing it before hand.

Day 43 - flushing roots. I try to water the plant once every two days 1 liter of water. Everything going OK.😉 day 45 - small defoliation. water consumption per day - 0.7 liter

Hello 👋 and welcome back. I've been really, really stoned for a month or two. I do enjoy a good cleaning. No need to be rushing this one, I've got a lot of stuff to tweak in the grow tent. Give it a good scrub to boot. Added a bunch of organic amendments to the medium and reloaded mineral content. Giving it a few weeks to let everything break down, settle in, and balance out before beginning, I'll be doing a thorough pH and EC prior to placing anything in the final pot and making sure to give it a good till in the top soil once everything is broken down into more palatable size. Organic fertilizer = organic matter that's still in the process of breaking down. Mineral fertilizer = salt mineral that's already broken down and ready for uptake in its current form. Synthetic mineral fertilizer = man-made minerals ready for uptake in their current form. Synthetic concentrated fertilizer = man-made concentrates that don't exist in nature. Adding this grow. 500g Horticultural charcoal. 454g Elite Shungite Coal (Fullerene C60). 1kg Spirulina is approx NPK 10%, 100g/1kg (N), 20% 200g/1kg (P), and 20% 200g/1kg (K). In 1 kg (1000g) of spirulina, you can expect approximately 50 mg to 177 mg of Zeaxanthin. 1 kg of moringa powder, approximate NPK : 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. 500g Azomite. (Ultimate mineral micro nutrient). 1kg of Gaia green 4-4-4, 1kg of 4-4-4 fertilizer contains 4% which is equivalent to 40 grams of each in 1000g. 500g eggshells, 20grams of calcium per 500g. Generally, the more organic matter a plant breaks down, the higher the soil's electrical conductivity (EC) tends to be. This is because the breakdown of organic matter releases nutrients into the soil solution, which increases the concentration of dissolved ions that conduct electricity. Roots and microorganisms do not directly compete for electrical conductivity itself. However, they do interact in the rhizosphere, a zone around plant roots where microbes and plants compete for resources like nutrients and water, which can indirectly influence electrical conductivity. Plant roots release exudates (carbon) into the soil, providing energy and nutrients for microbes. In return, microbes can help plants access nutrients, particularly in the rhizosphere, where nutrient availability can be high. Both roots and microbes compete for the same resources, such as phosphorus (P) and iron (Fe). Factors like microbial decomposition of plant-derived chelators and the proximity of microbes to the root surface can influence this competition. Carbon 60 (Fullerene) can enhance plant growth by boosting microbial activity in the soil, improving water retention, and even increasing plant biomass and yield. It's not a fertilizer, but rather a soil amendment that acts as an ideal companion product for fertilization programs. Studies have shown that fullerenes can influence soil bacterial communities and potentially activate processes like nitrogen transformation in the soil. Some research suggests that fullerenes can increase the availability of nutrients and enhance plant growth. Buckminsterfullerene is a type of fullerene with the formula C60. It has a cage-like fused-ring structure (truncated icosahedron) made of twenty hexagons and twelve pentagons, and resembles a soccer ball. Each of its 60 carbon atoms is bonded to its three neighbors. Shungite coal, particularly the "precious Shungite" variety, is known to contain fullerenes, with a higher content found in Shungite of category 3. The most common fullerene, C60 (also known as buckminsterfullerene or a buckyball), is a well-studied example. The influence of water-soluble carboxylated light fullerene derivatives on the physiological plant state is not well studied. The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, Hawaiian Spirulina is cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. It is then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen with a whopping, NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Azomite needs no introduction; Just incase, Azomite delivers 70+ minerals and trace elements to boost BRIX, root strength, soil vitality, and yields. Micronized. Moringa is a highly nutrient-dense plant, often called the "miracle tree" or "tree of life" due to its impressive nutritional profile and potential health benefits. It's particularly rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds, making it a valuable resource for addressing malnutrition and promoting overall health. Containing over 92 verifiable nutrients, Moringa oleifera is found to be the most nutrient-dense plant on earth. As far as we know this is the only place online where we list all 92 (and more) nutrients of the Moringa tree and we list all 46 antioxidants of the Moringa tree too. Deep in the Himalayas is a tree called Moringa oleifera, also known as the drumstick tree, and throughout the subtropics, this tree is cultivated for its amazing health benefits. This amazing tree has the ability to grow in an array of conditions, and its health benefits are astonishing. The drumstick tree contains a staggering 92 nutrients and 46 natural antioxidants and as it also holds a number of anti-inflammatory compounds. The sheer number of nutrients found in this tree brings it to the top of the superfoods list, and in its native locations, it is said to have the ability to help treat more than 300 diseases and illnesses. To give you an idea, just a single serving of the Moringa tree contains: 4 times the amount of calcium in the same amount of milk. More vitamin C than 7 oranges. Double the protein and 3 times the amount of potassium in a banana. It's high antioxidant levels can help fight free radicals, potentially slowing down the ageing process and promoting longevity. It is thought to be able to help lower cholesterol levels and regulate blood pressure, due to the high levels of niacin and vitamins B3 and B10. A serving of 100g of this tree gives: Over 8g protein Over 400mg potassium Nearly 450mg calcium 164mg vitamin C 738 ¼g of vitamin A. Moringa also contains vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B7, A, C, K, E and D. Amino Acids: In addition, it contains various other nutrients, including the following essential amino acids: Threonine – a nutrient that helps metabolism and prevents fatty buildup in the liver. It also aids digestion. Isoleucine – good for a healthy brain and helps to give the body natural energy. Leucine – works hand in hand with isoleucine to increase energy levels. Phenylalanine – aids communication between the brain’s nerve cells and also helps to reduce hunger pangs as well as increasing alertness and improving memory. Tryptophan – supports your immune system, and its mood boosting ability helps to beat depression and anxiety-associated insomnia. It also reduces the risk of heart attack and lowers bad cholesterol levels. Lysine – aids the absorption of calcium into the bones, supports antibodies and regulates various hormones as well as inhibiting the growth of virus cells. Methionine – provides the body with sulphur as well as helping to lower cholesterol. It also supports the liver, kidneys, and helps keep skin, hair and nails healthy. Valine – helps to keep the mind calm. There are other amino acids in Moringa too, which are not essential to the body but are still beneficial in supporting health. These include histidine, alanine, glutamic acid, arginine, cysteine, proline, aspartic acid, glycine, serine, and tyrosine. Moringa seeds contain oils that hold high levels of oleic acid, which may act to reduce inflammation. https://amchara.com/detox-cleanse/92-nutrients-and-46-antioxidants-in-one-tree-maringa-oleifera/ 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. Moringa can also serve as a natural source of nitrogen, potentially replacing chemical fertilizers. About 95% of the dry eggshell is calcium carbonate weighing 5.5 grams. The average eggshell contains about . 3% phosphorus and . 3% magnesium and traces of sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron and copper. 1 ppm in water (mg/L) = 1 ppm in soil (mg/kg) If you use 10 grams of 10-20-20 fertilizer in 4 liters of water: Nitrogen: (10 grams * 10/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 2500 ppm N Phosphorus: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm P Potassium: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm K In summary, to determine the precise ppm of an NPK fertilizer, you need to know the specific weight of fertilizer used, the volume of water, and the NPK percentages. The general formula and example calculations can help you make these conversions.

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