New Week, new tent, light & pots Just placed them in a Mars Hydro 120x60x180 tent with the Mars Hydro TSL2000 Repotted in 5L pots with PLAGRON light mix & 2 of them (far right + in the back/the bad ones) are not performing that well so they got PLAGRON growmix to give them a boost. The plant in the back seems to have a broken ,top leaf’ - no parasite/intruder in sight… 3 in the front left are performing very well, let’s give them 5-7 days to root properly, than they can get big. Always using hand warm water when feeding + a heat mat for the night for the first time wich don’t seem to make a difference to previous runs (strangely enough) @ night it‘s about 16/17 degrees in the room. The bottom of the box is polstered with foam mats for ,isolation‘. Big pots in the back are just experiments with Studio54 + Rainbow Gelato cuts from another run here.

Cant take my eyes off my plant. This is my second round of growing and I am the type of person who learns through failure (not gonna upload the pics of the first round plants lol). The buds are thickening up very nicely. Hoping to get between 3-4oz , the strain is high yielding but I have a smaller tent. My auto yielded 2oz with the same space (2 plants in one tent splitting the space), but the buds definitely didn't develop as well as these buds.

Just a another great week, lets wait for the fat Gorilla buds. She turn over last week so huge, its crazy

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Alles soweit OK..... Bin zufrieden bis auf die Erkenntnis das ich ein wenig viel bei der zkittlez 1 und 2 weg geschnitten habe in blüte Woche 3 naja Anfänger Fehler halt Edit:werde am 25.12.20 mit der Spülung beginnen

Light Power increased from 50% to 70,height from plants Is 45cm (had to raise up light about 5cm) . Applied azos (with water irrigation). External temps are getting down and that's perfect since light Power Is increased ...temps are the same. One of the three mimosa cake was topped,another One i did LST and the others i decided to not touch. I decided to put light Power to 50 again and distance to 60 because distance from internodes are too close.I don't wanna touch plants ,less defoliation as i can because i'm doing some tests.

FastBuds White Widow auto 4th week of flowering completed 11th jan 2020 Well this plant is still the smelliest of all the testers Ive been growing it Reeks!! but in a good way 😝 Nothing else to report all my girls seem to be very content in their environment at the moment and are getting closer to the end every day . I'm supposed to be going away on leave next mont for 2-3 weeks and I'm hoping all of my flowering plants will be ready by then 😏

The swell is underway! Some are leaning over from the weight. I took a tester and few days ago, just smoked it, and I'm impressed! I can't wait to get this cured and ready and taste her again! Thanks for looking!

Gracias al equipo de MSNL y XpertNutrients sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Forbidden Fruit Auto: Forbidden Fruit Autoflower, llamada así por sus deliciosos sabores, es un cruce entre Cherry Pie, Tangie y Siberian Ruderalis. Esta variedad ofrece efectos estimulantes y relajantes con un sabor afrutado, cítrico y a pino. Ideal para quienes buscan un dulce escape. 🚀🌻 Consigue aqui tus semillas: 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 7: Ha sido una semana algo complicada, tormentas, frio y lluvia han ralentizado el crecimiento, espero que pronto lleguen dias soleados, continuo con 1/3 nutrientes recomendados en cada riego.

Flushed the grow medium with 35 gallons of water! Just de-chlorinated tap water from here on out. Harvesting her a little bit earlier than normal, for the lighter vibing herb. She looks like she's done growing yield, and is finishing off with a nice fade.

Day 47 or so I haven’t measured her so the height can’t be right she’s huge! And getting so heavy. Took some photos of her in the dark while I pretreated the tent for mites or any other fuckers who like to ruin the day. Just in case. Since I recycled soil it couldn’t hurt. She’s beautiful I’m so excited for her to be finished.

Day 64 the queens got some fertilizer 💪😃👍 Day 65 that massive smell and these juicy buds 😃👌 Day 66 that massive smell 😍👌 Day 67 i think the results are near 😍👍 Day 68 final countdown 😎👌 Day 69 only a few days more 😍👌 Day 70 a few more days till final results 😃👌

We have reached the final weeks of flowering.. finally! This grow ended up taking waaay longer than I wanted, but live and learn. Probably chopping just about everyone next weekend.

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

.... Really good week but the work continues. The stretch is on. The 2 ladies on the extreme left has a proper stretch going on. It may be due to those are the girls I mainlined or it could be the blurple lights that both of them are under. Still removing some of the thick lower growth below the netting. its think but i remove just a little everynight for a gentle reduction in foliage. Not pictured here but on Day 12 white hairs were beginning to show. A few issues with high humidity during lights on or high heat when the dehumidifier is on. No strain specific smells as yet. Huge difference observed between the mainlined strains ( Orange Sherbert and Green Gelato) and the other LST strains in the tent. The stems of the mainlined strains tend to be fatter and there is a significant reduction on foliage on the mainlined strains. The LST strains (Blue Gelato 41 and the Vanilla Kush) are more bushy, squat with heavy foliage. Also not so much as a long stretch.

This week I started her LST and bent her top over as far as possible without snapping and locked her in place. I use soft wire "Gear Ties" sold in the hardware section of most places. I got mine at Home Depot. I highly recommend these for anyone serious about Lst. I kept her in this position for about 4 days before adjusting placement and pulling the main top back down below the lower branches. I have been maintaining the same feeding schedule "week 4 hydro" 3/4 str main nutrients, 1/2 str Open Seasame. She started showing preflowers on me even though it's been in an 18/6 light cycle. So that's why OS and week 4 feeding was opted. Even though the plant was technically 2 months old, she's only been fed and treated right for 2 weeks now. So week 7 from seed, I started at the week 3 schedule.

Día 101 (09/09) Riego con 500 / 1000 ml H2O pH 6,5 Parece que se ha parado un poco el amarilleamiento que subía tan rápidamente por las plantas! Día 102 (10/09) Riego con 500 / 1000 ml H2O pH 6,5 Excepto LemonPaya, todas las plantas empiezan a llenarse de tricomas! 😍 Día 103 (11/09) Riego con 500 / 1000 ml H2O pH 6,5 Estoy emparanoiado con que la floración va lenta... Día 104 (12/09) Los cogollos no se están formado correctamente... Algo pasa... Los pistilos tienen un extraño color verde y no engordan... OnionOG #1 es la única que tiene un ritmo normal... Riego con 250 / 500 ml porque las temperaturas empiezan a bajar a 25 ºC diurnos / 22 ºC nocturnos y está bajando el consumo de agua... Día 105 (13/09) La deficiencia empeora... Solo se salvan OnionOG #1 y KS1 #2... Día 106 (14/09) La deficiencia sigue empeorando... Solo se salvan OnionOG #1 y KS1 #2... Día 107 (15/09) La floración se ha ido al traste! (Excepto OnionOG #1 y KS1 #2) Tras preguntar a Lurpe, GD e IG concluyo que el super soil tiene un bloqueo de nutrientes Debido al bloqueo, se ha detenido la floración en 4 de las 6 plantas Siguiendo las recomendaciones de Lurpe, hago flush hasta que el agua de escorrentía tiene una EC 2,5 (1250 PPMs) A ver si les da tiempo a recuperarse... 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Día 29 (10/02) Riego con 400 ml H2O RO Detecto una ligera deficiencia de Magnesio. Aplicación foliar de sales de Epsom a 2 g/L Día 30 (11/02) Riego con 400 ml H2O RO Día 31 (12/02) Riego con 400 ml H2O RO Día 32 (13/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O RO Está teniendo un stretch espectacular! Día 33 (14/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O RO Día 34 (15/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O RO Detecto unas ligeras manchas en las hojas de abanico más antiguas que parecen carencia de CalMag Voy a regar durante unos días con mezcla de H2O RO + H2O del grifo (Tap Water) con una resultante EC 0,45 Día 35 (16/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 💦 BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ @biotabs_official 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE @promixmitch @promixgrowers_unfiltered 💡2 x Mars Hydro FC1500 EVO Led Grow Light (2024 NEW FC 1500-EVO Samsung LM301H 150W LED) - https://marshydro.eu/products/fc1500-evo-led-grow-lights/ - https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CSSGN5D8?ref=myi_title_dp

Top her again Waiting for to recover from another round of topping Check out my Cannabis Community, please👇like👇, follow, comment, and subscribe to my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 https://www.youtube.com/@DutchF4rmer Join our cannabis community community for weekly giveaways 👌 (Discord Server) https://discord.gg/VMu6rH4a7V It will be appreciated! ❤️ Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱