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Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, a oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chloryphyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photos. Beta-carotene is most prevalent provitamin A carotenoid, commonly found in orange and yellow fruits and such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and mangos. Additional carotenoids include lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, which possess antioxidant and photoprotective properties. In, Vitamin A exists in the form of carotenoids, are pigments responsible for. Vitamin A is classified as a soluble vitamin. Vitamin B plays a crucial role in plant growth and development, serving as a coenzyme in numerous metabolic reactions underpin plant growth and maintenance. It aids in metabolizing essential nutrients for growth and development and enhances their responses to biotic and abiotic stress. Vitamin B supports root development, reducing transplant shock, and promotes shoot growth, particularly in slow-growing plants Vitamin B1, also as thiamine diphosate, is integral to pathways such as glycolysis and the tricarboxylic acid cycle. Vitamin B3, or nicotinamide/niacin, acts as a biostimulant, improving growth and. Vitamin B6 functions as an antioxidant and cofactor, playing a significant role in plant. Vitamin C, referred to as ascorbic acid is another vital nutrient for plants, aiding in growth and offering protection against excessive light. It serves as a red buffer, crucial for regulating synthesis. Vitamin C assists enzymes involved in photosynthesis, hormone production, and the regeneration of antioxidants. Furthermore, it acts as coenzyme in the xanthophyll cycle, converting energy into heat to protect plants light-induced damage. RAW GROW is a thoroughly tested blend all RAW Soluble plant nutrients essential elements, and supplements as an optimal all base "Grow" horticultural fertilizer. It is utilized throughout the entire vegetative stage. Its composition includes plant protein hydrolysate, mono potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate, cane molasses, sodium borate, copper sulfate, iron DTPA, magnesium sulfate, manganese sulfate sulfate, and azomite. Additionally, it contains non- food ingredients such as humic acids derived from leonardite and peat, kelp (Ascophyllumosum silicon dioxide derived diatomite, and yucca extract. Seedlings or young plants can be fed with 200-400PpM, teenage plants with maturing root zone can be given 350-550 PPM, and mature plants require 600-1000 PPM. By closely monitoring plant growth and adjusting feeding levels, one can an understanding of the quantity to provide When starting, it is advisable to err on the side of caution and adopt a "less is more" approach. One-thousandth of a gram is one milligram, and 1000 ml is one liter, so 1 ppm = 1 mg per liter = mg/Liter. PPM is derived from the fact that the density of water is taken as 1kg/L = 1,000,000 mg/L, and 1mg/L is 1mg/1,000,000mg or one part in one million. One-thousandth of a gram is one milligram, and 1000 ml is one liter, so 1 ppm = 1 mg per liter = mg/Liter. PPM is derived from the fact that the density of water is taken as 1kg/L = 1,000,000 mg/L, and 1mg/L is 1mg/1,000,000mg or one part in one million.
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I am pretty happy for this being my 1st grow ever! Nice looking buds and lots of fun! I did expect the nugz to be bigger but I an happy with the experience!
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7/27 My phone ran out of storage and wouldn't let me take a video. I tried deleting several other videos bit that didn't work either. Finally I wad able to upload a few RANDOM pictures from the "website" camera. But no video. Everything looked so beautiful tjis morning too. Not watering was the right choice. I defoliated a couple septoria leaves on the reveg 10th planet that wad about to receive its third dose of Plant Doctor. The chem dog #4 and mk ultra this will be their second treatment. Seeing the positive impact of the product and finding a few septoria leaves I decided to treat every plant in the garden with plant doctor. I'm still going to do the diy Dr. Zymes but Plant Doctor had been working good and I want to suppress as much as possible. Everything looks great. I started by giving the thirstiest plants a half gallon of water. I then did a root drench of 3tsp per gallon on every plant but the 10gal. A gallon of solution was used on each plant. I really feel like this is a good mood. Previously AFTER I applied Plant Doctor the plants would have a noticeable positive effect shortly after. I'm hoping this will be the case here. I think stretch has stopped. I have one special Kush that has buds already but EVERYTHING is in early flower. I'll fix the phone and get a video up there. EDIT: WENT BACK AROUND ONE TO DO A LITTLE DEFOLIATION. EVERYTHING LOOKS REALLY GOOD TO ME. I DID DEFOLIATE A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES. BUT REMOVING A LEAF OR TWO FROM A MONSTER REVEG IS NOTHING. REALISTICALLY I SHOULD BE REMOVING MORE FOR BETTER AIR FLOW. THATS SOMETHING ILL NEED TO DO. SO HAPPY THINGS ARE DOING GOOD. EVERYTHING IS IN VARIOUS STAGES OF FLOWER. NEXT FEED ILL BE USING A BLOOM NUTRIENT. NOT SURE BUT PROBABLY LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. 7/28 Didn't have much time this morning. I've got a wife with medical problems and I'm trying to redue my house before the end of the summer so I'm busy to say the least. Still no pm. Not many pests either. The rose bushes behind them have been DEMOLISHED by jpn beetles. I see no negative active reactions from treating everything with plant doctor 3tsp/gallon. The first plant I treated with it was that 10th planet and its gotten three treatments and looks great. I'll get a spot here or there once in a while but for the most part it's supressed. I have some pruning to do. Everything os in early flower but that one special kush is pretty far ahead. EDIT: SINCE IT WAS MID 80S I WENT OVER AROUND 1 TO CHECK THE GIRLS. THEY LOOKED GREAT. I DEFOLIATED A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES BUT ONLY A COUPLE. I STOPPED AT A LOCAL SHOP AND SHOWED MY BUDDY A VIDEO. HE SAID TO NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING WITH LEAF SEPTORIA WITH "ANYTHING" BECAUSE OF HOW IT SPREADS. I DIDNT MENTION THE CONTRADICTORY EVIDENCE THAT I'VE FOUND IN MY RESEARCH BUT HEY. HE HASNT LED ME WRONG. PLANT DOCTOR SEEMS TO BE DOING THE JOB. THAT AND DEFOLIATING ANYTHING I SEE. IVE WORKED TOO HARD TO LOSE THEM TO A DISEASE THAT MAINLY EFFECTS THE LEAVES. PLANT DOCTOR WILL KEEP IT SUPPRESSED. 7/29 Today is supposed to be really hot. In the 90's. I watered everything a gallon except the thirstier plants got 1.5 and the 10's got 1/2 gallon. I defoliated a few septoria leaves. I'm sure there will be a few more after watering. Instead of alleviating my concerns my buddy kinda got in my head with the septoria talk. Things will be fine. Everything LOOKS gorgeous. He even said, "They look really good and healthy" and "not to get complacent defoliating." The plant in the 50 seems to be worse off than the others. I'll keep an eye on it but if I got spots near the sugar leaves I might just cut that little runt. This was all preventable too. Person mowing the lawn BLEW DISEASED GRASS, SHRUBS AND BIRD SEED IN MY CAGE RIGHT AFTER TRANSPLANT. I legit had to dig out at least a dozen sunflowers or other seeds that sprouted. Realistically things will be fine. The plant I've been treating for three weeks with plant doctor looks great. So do the others. Everything looks good. I just get occasional leaves I previously would've overlooked or attributed to something else. As long as I can keep it suppressed enough through flower I'm good. Anything that isn't good enough will go towards extracts. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND ONE. A COUPLE PLANTS IN TJE BACK THAT I WATERED FASTER WERE LIGHT SO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH THEM. THE 10TH PLANET THAT HAS GOTTEN THE FULL PLANT DOCTOR TREATMENT IS DOING AWESOME. I DID HAVE TO DEFOLIATE A HANDFUL OF LEAVES. HONESTLY I THINK IVE PROBABLY HAD THIS YEARS PRIOR AND DIDNT RECOGNIZE IT. IM PRAYING EVERYTHING WORKS OUT. IM DOING MY PART. I'M GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE RESEARCH. 7/30 Came over to the 10th planet plant in the front row all the way in the back was drooped all down and is yellowing up pretty good. I defoliated what I could and gave it a gallon and a half of water. I defoliated any sep leaves I could find. If that plant foesnt pick up like they normally do I may need to ditch the plant. If it continues to get yellow and look unhealthy I'd rather get rid of it than risk more damage. It was light as a feather so I assume it will be fine. I'll update as I go. Everything else looked good though. EDIT: DESPITE IMMENSE ANXIETY I GOT THAT FEELING SO I WENT AND CHECKED THEM. THE ONE I WATERED DID PICK BACK UP BUT IT HAS A LOT OF YELLOW LEAVES. THE 10TH PLANET THATS DOING GOOD WAS BONE DRY AND STARTING TO DROOP. I GAVE IT 1.5 GALLONS. THE HUGE MK ULTRA ALSO WAS STARTING TO DROP AND LIGHT AS A FEATHER. I GAVE THAT A FULL WATERING CAN WHICH IS DAMN NEAR 2 GALLONS. THE REST WILL GET WATERED TOMORROW. NO SIGN OF SEP THIS TIME. I WASNT THERE LONG BUT STILL. THE OTHER PLANTS WERE LOOKING GOOD AND ALL PRAYING TO THE SUN. TOMORROW ILL WATER AND FEED. 7/31 Came over this morning to one of my plants on the 10 drooped right over. I shouldve watered it yesterday when I did the others that were light. Coincidentally the three that needed the water were the 3 revegs. I watered what didn't get it yesterday with a gallon each. I then fed everything a powerade bottle. Started liquid kool bloom today. We shall see how that goes. I defoliated quite a few leaves. I think I may have had sep in the past on some plants and just didn't notice. Plants still look good but I keep a good eye on them. And I defoliate a lot. I've taken my buddies advice and not sprayed anything. I don't really have any pests. A pillar here or there or a "A" cricket or jpn beetle. Of there is one four eyed plant bug but I can't seem to kill it. I've almost caught it a couple times. Anyway like usual I'll keep this updated.
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Very good journey to me, she has responded very well to the lst training, providing me beautiful colas, enough for me to have nice clean organic nuggets to smoke. I would definitely would run this Ak420 by seedstockers again, the sweetest phenotype was the number #2 which you can take a look at here in my page!
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Cooler weather outside means my garage and grow tent are cooler, which is a good thing. Sex Panther @STRNG seeds grew 1/2 inches this week and her buds continue to mature. We have a hurricane is the near future so I hope I don't lose electricity. This is week 3 out of a possible 10 weeks of flowering. It should be ready around October. I look forward to its sweet, fruity, pine, earthy and woody flavor which in turn will produce an uplifting, calming, focus and creative effect. Take a look at the Max-see up close and personal pictures of Sex Panther trichomes. As always, Find you Happiness. Comments and Likes appreciated. Susquihanna
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@BruWeed
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☘️18/12 - Comenzó su segunda semana en etapa de crecimiento. ☘️Esta cumpliendo 22 días de vida desde que germinó. ☘️Va a estar tres semanas en vege. ☘️A esta planta no le voy a realizar ningún tipo de corte, solo en la etapa de floración voy a colocar la red de scrog. ☘️Por el momento se encuentra bien, sin ningun problema. ☘️Está midiendo 15 cm de alto. ☘️En estos días estaré publicando mas imágenes de como viene. Para mas contenido podes seguirme en instagram como @bruweed_ard
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@Krisis
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Hi again. 3rd times a charm 😀 06-27-26. Put the little baby (not deep enough) into a cup of happy frog soil. Sprayed with water and then sprayed a sandwich baggie with water and covered the cup. She came through today with seed stuck just a bit but cracked apart. I took it off the rest of the way. I’ll be using 2 soils. Happy frog was the for seed starting because it’s not hot enough to burn babies. On transplanting I’ll be using Coast of Maine for the first time. I’ve included some information down below for you. Gary Sherbet is built around a single concept: stacking Sherbet-driven genetics across multiple layers to deepen terpene expression while maintaining the strength and structure of Gary Payton. The base starts with Gary Payton (Cookies Seed Bank) crossed into Sunset Sherbet, already softening its profile and bringing in a more rounded, creamy character. This foundation was then further developed by introducing Sherbanger (Sunset Sherbet × Headbanger) from Boston Roots Seed Co, reinforcing the same terpene direction while adding extra depth and a subtle fuel edge. For this project, we worked each line from seed, running large in-house selections across multiple plants to identify the phenotypes that best matched our criteria in terms of vigor, structure, and terpene expression. The final cross was made using only the plants selected through this process, ensuring a consistent and well-defined direction.What comes out of this is a clear Sherbet-dominant stack, where the same terpene backbone runs through multiple generations. The terpene profile is deep, layered, and complex, built around creamy dessert notes, sweet citrus, and a sharper gassy finish that develops over time rather than hitting all at once. Structurally, the line keeps the influence of Gary Payton: strong growth, solid branching, and reliable flower production, with dense, well-formed buds. At the same time, the Sherbet side enhances resin production and pushes the aromatic depth further. Gary Sherbet is less about combining unrelated traits and more about reinforcing a single genetic direction, layering Sherbet influence over a Gary Payton base to create a line with serious output, strong structure, and a terpene profile with real depth.
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@Hou_Stone
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I preferred to remove my net this week, to more easily access my plants and water them. I hope the branches will hold I cut a lot of leaf this week. I hear different opinions that say it's beneficial others not... At least it will have the advantage of lowering the humidity. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Water: tap water at 300 PPM, I add 0.7G of Hybrid powder and 0.3g of booster PK+ per liter to reach 950PPM and I adjust the PH to 5.8. I watered daily until water drained from the pot (to release nutrients from previous waterings) and I take a 3-4 day watering break to let it dry out before resuming a daily watering schedule. -Daytime temperature: 22-26°C -Night temperature: 20-24°C -Humidity: 50-75% ( Too high but it's hard to lower it... I need advice please contact me if you have :) ) -Lamp: Mars Hydro FC3000. intensity 90% at 35cm from the top leaves -Room: Mars Hydro 100x100x180cm -Extractor: Mars hydro 402 CFM Max. power 3/10 -Substrate : 70% coco, 25% perlite, 5% vermiculite. My instagram : https://www.instagram.com/p/CuMhQ_BsjRP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Looking for MarsHydro equipment for your crop? 🔥 You can use my promo codes! 🙏😻 3% off with "houstone3" for: TS LED Grow Light, Tent, Ventilation 5% off with "houstone5" for: FC&FC-E&SP LED Grow Lights; Grow Tent Kits https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone
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Sehr buschiger stretch. Beinahe alle triebe gleich hoch gestretcht. Bin ich mal gespannt!
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@Stork
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Day 97 Mon PH 5.8 EC 0.6 DLI 12h PPFD Water 24c Day 98 Tue PH 5.4 - 5.8 EC 0.6 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18-24c Day 99 Wed Add water PH 5.3 - 5.8 EC 0.6 - 0.5 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18-24c Day 100 Thu PH 5.5 - 5.8 EC 0.5 - DLI 12h PPFD Water 18-24c Day 102 Sat PH 5.5 - 6.0 EC 0.5 DLI 12h PPFD Water 18-24c Day 103 Sun PH 0.6 EC 5.8 DLI 12h PPFD Water 16-24c
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What a great week! We only gave them their nutrients once this week, and it seemed to be just enough for the girls. They're all fighters and are showing it every day. The greenhouse is starting to work in our favor during the day because when it was humid enough, the temperature was perfect. One of the girls, Osaka, started to grow rapidly, and we noticed that it may have been due to the fact that she was collecting the rainwater that had seeped inside the greenhouse. The rainwater had just the right pH to allow her to grow not only rapidly but beautifully. It was very unexpected at first, and now she's starting to look like our shining star. One of them, Ben, also looks like she's flowering a little, but we're not sure what to do since it's still a little early... Hoping for the best and, as always, hoping for rain!
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I missed an update because i got that winter time saaaaaaaadness.. nah it's chill, i was just lazy to take photos let alone even check on them haha.. Which did make one plant unhappy, I should have done a feed sooner I had dental work done and felt like a POS. The ladies stacked on some masssss.. I did a really big haircut on them, took all fan leaves off unless on main colas, they still so bushy dang. I included some photos of them with no light and so purple!!!! I saw first amber trichomes so time is coming up here! it's a hybrid so i'm not going to go super amber, last feed was today then I start the flush! Got some lil seedies germinating also! Excited for new things! :) Hope ya'll been good n staying safe during another dumpster fire year lol. keeeeep it sleezy👻
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@deFharo
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Semana 14 desde semilla. La planta sigue creciendo lustrosa y engordando las colas, a pesar de alguna incidencia. - A mitad de semana comencé a notar pequeñas quemaduras en la punta de las hojas más grandes, hice un riego con agua pura y medí la concentración de PPM en el agua escurrida en el plato. La medida me dió cifras locas de hasta PPM: 7500, es una medida altísima para mis propósitos, pero tampoco se puede comparar con altas concentraciones PPM surgidas de riegos con fertilizantes químicos, donde esas medidas hubieran matado irremediablemente el cultivo. Los motivos de estas altas concentraciones de minerales y nutrientes en el sustrato son por causa de un exceso de aporte de nutrientes líquidos, sin dar descanso y oportunidad al cultivo de ir digiriendo los nutrientes que le aplico, - Dos días después de la detección del desequilibro en el sustrato, puse 3L de agua de lluvia (EC: 0,036) y bajo el nivel de PPM hasta 1500. Como se demuestra un lavado de raíces en un sustrato puramente orgánico es mucho más fácil por la poca agua necesaria, ya que el arrastre o disolución de componentes sobrantes es mucho más directa y no necesita tanta agua como para disolver las sales acumuladas de fertilizaciones químicas. Cuando se hace un lavado de raíces como el anterior, se debe de tener en cuenta que, el elemento que más rápidamente se pierde por el lixiviado es el Nitrógeno, en base a esto observar las señales de falta de nitrógeno y corregir en posteriores riegos. • En base a lo anterior, partir de esta semana comienzo a aplicar otra estrategia para el riego con nutrientes, el cambio lo voy a hacer en todos los cultivos y se trata de esperar al menos 72h desde el último aporte de nutrientes (Sólidos o líquidos) para aplicar nuevos, mientras tanto, si la planta necesita riego, lo haré sólo con agua para de esta manera dar tiempo a la planta a digerir todos los nutrientes convenientemente, voy a bajar también el nivel de EC en todos los riegos durante todo el cultivo, además voy a hacer formulaciones nutricionales más simples y específicas, excepto componentes que sistemáticamente incluyo en todos los riegos como el Ormus, la melaza o la miel, con este cambio de estrategia estaré muy atento a las señales de la planta, el motivo del cambio es primero para reforzar mi autocontrol frente a mi afición a sobrealimentar las plantas debido a mi colección de preparados 😋, aunque no es fácil bloquear dramáticamente una planta cultivada con puros elementos orgánicos, estoy observando un exagerado EC en el agua sobrante de las macetas, esto me indica que los MM están haciendo muy bien su trabajo de disolver los componentes del sustrato, componentes que al añadirlos en demasía enriquecen sin medida el sustrato haciéndolo demasiado denso, perjudicando su eficacia. 😕 DIETA SEMANAL 1) Día 99. Ormus 2%, Bio frutas NP 2%, Lacto fermento MMM 1%, Hidrolizado de Pezuña 0,25% y Melaza. PH: 6.33 EC: 2.0 - 900ml. 2) Día 100. Ormus 1,5%, Humato PK 1,5% y Melaza. PH: 6.3 EC: 1.66 - 600ml. 3) Día 101. Ormus 2,2%, MMA 3%, Melaza y Lixiviado 2%. PH: 6.6 EC: 2.0 - 500ml. 4) Día 102. Ormus 1%, Humato Mineral 2% y Melaza. PH: 6.4 EC: 1.87 - 900ml. 5) Día 103. Sólo agua pura con miel. PH: 6.8 EC: 0.350 - 600ml. 6) Día 104. Agua pura con miel y 1% de MMA y Ormus. PH: 6.37 EC: 0.850 - 800ml. 7) Día 105. Agua de lluvia. PH: 6.8 EC: 0,036. 3L. (Recojo 1,8 litros de lixiviado que uso diluido para regar mis geranios y otras flores) 😂 GROWING TIPS Lacto fermento experimental con auxinas y enriquecido con minerales y nutrientes NP, para usar desde germinación hasta preflora. Debido a que disponía de 1,2 litros de auxinas líquidas y estaban a poco de caducar he comenzado este bio fertilizante con la intención de mantener una solución de riego rico en auxinas naturales y otros elementos específicos para enraizado y crecimiento vegetativo. 1) Obtención del suero de leche con leche fresca o pasteurizada. a) Calentar la leche entre 70°C a 90°C b) Apagar el fuego y añadir el zumo de 1 limón grande. c) Revolver con madera hasta que se vea la leche cortada. d) Dejar enfriar 30 minutos. e) Colar y filtrar para separar el suero de la materia sólida. f) De 1,5l de leche pasteurizada he sacado 1,2l. de suero. 2) Mezclar el suero con melaza y miel 3) Pesar los componentes sólidos y añadirlos al recipiente digestor. Añado zanahoria picada para garantizar la presencia de Boro. 4) Añadir al suero, Bacterias ácido lácticas (BAL), levadura de pan y Ormus. 5) Añadir la mezcla al barril. 6) Agitar vigorosamente. 7) Añado el agua de auxinas.* 8) Cierro herméticamente el recipiente y coloco la válvula de escape de gases. 9) Lo dejo fermentar al menos por 30 días. Cuanto más tiempo se mantenga en fermentación mejor es el resultado del lacto fermento, como el vino!! * Para todos mis fermentados y bioles uso agua de un manantial de montaña cercano, este agua es muy alcalina PH: 9.2 y contiene mucho mineral: EC: 0.85, la uso para compensar la acidez de los fermentados y garantizar un aporte seguro de carbonato cálcico y trazas minerales. El preparado comenzó a fermentar a los 20 minutos de cerrar el barril. Probaré este lacto fermento incluyéndolo en mis procesos de germinación y crecimiento. Saludos y hasta la próxima semana!! 😷
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Will update with dry weight in 2-3 days 👽 Update: 52 grams!!! Wow!000
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It was a great last run. It’s been a beautiful time. My time here done now. BlackForestGrower out. 🌲✌️
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@TPBzh
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We are getting close here, i think I'll wash them in few days. They smell very strong and look so sweet, can't wait to taste them :)