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Room setup rundown, examples of bud, et al in pictures... Seedlings/Clones lights - Viparspectra XS1500. Vege lights - Mars Hydro FC-4800 Flower Lights - 650w 3400K 1900umol/s PAR, (3) 226w DIY 2900K 630umol/s PAR (678w and 1890umol/s), Substrate - 50/50 sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite in 5-gallon pots Climate Control - Luckily, the lights, winter and normal furnace use all equate to a decent temperature, though a bit on colder side in in vege phase, sadly. Humidifier is needed early and later a dehumidifier is needed when canopy develops. I only grow in the winter months. Irrigation - do not use the emitters in this diary. They suck a big fat dick to skip a line to suck a bigger dick. Use the pressure compensating type. https://growdiaries.com/diaries/232811-strawberry-cookies-og-r1-cherry-diesel-bbgs-ego-epg-ebg-grow-journal-by-001100010010011110/week/1366923 -- use something similar to those. They come in different shapes, too. Basic process The little light takes care of seedlings in 2.5" wide seedling pots until first up-pot. The 1-gallon pots fit well under the FC4800 in a 4x4 tent until day 21 after sprout. I plant 150% or more of what i need, so i can kill the weak without concern. The goal is for every plant that makes it to the 5-gallon up-pot being capable of producing a minimum of 160 grams with a maximum of a 35-40 day vegetative phase. Third up-pot is into 5-gallon nursery pots and now under the 3 DIY lights and the 650W light in the big tent for a couple more weeks of vege. An irrigation system in the big tent saves a lot of time. One scrog for training and another for support, just in case. Reverting back to a more systematic approach to canopy composition moving forward. About 2.3 colas per sq ft and 8 primary colas per plant. Yields were similar when over-crowding and being less systematic, but the proportion of less dense nugs is greater and trim time is needlessly elevated because of that fact. I was very controlling about this the first couple years but got away from it for far too long at this point. Drying / Curing - Into mesh racks for 9 days. I wet trim and cut down to similarly sized buds for even drying. Temps are controlled around 68F and RH is set to 60%. Then into some 5-gallon buckets with gamma seal lids and (3) 2-way 67g boveda humidipaks (58% or 62%) in each bucket - 1 at bottom, 2 at top. Temp/RH probe confirms that they hold the RH steady at 60-63%. Cost - 0.33 cents (USD) per gram produced. This includes an accelerated depreciation expense for all equipment used, fertilizer, water, electricity for all equipment used, new filters and other yearly purchases - bti, ph strips, sticky traps, etc. I'm a finance guy, so these numbers are comprehensively accurate and purposely err slightly on high side of cost. The only facet not included is the cost of my labor.

Una planta llena de vigor

Being lazy this grow yano the score too high

Last week I fought some yellowing of the leaves. Did some small adjustments on PH to keep it in the 5.6 range. Seemed to stop it from progressing. For Week 3 Veg I topped the plants. I plan to flip the lights at the end of week 3 and move into flower. Day 15 I continued to have yellowing leaves even though I had everything looking right. (Added Pic). I decided to look into the PH to see if I was having issues with it. I have a meter in the water 100% of the time taking a reading every 1 sec. It all looked right. But I decided to Calibrate it in 4,7,10 solutions. Found out that my meter was off. So new to the check list is to calibrate the meter before each grow. I was thinking my PH was High, when in reality it was low. put in some PH up to get it back to 5.5 and over the last 16 hours things look pretty good. Leaves look darker. Day 17 Things are looking good. Leaves are getting darker and new growth coming in. Day 18 Turned room temp down to 73F from 76F. Fearing it is warming up my res tank too much. Day 19 Starting to get yellowing again. checked everything and can't find a good reason for it. Did notice some cloudiness in my res tank. Added 2 ML/Gal of peroxide. have Hydroguard on the way to help. I'll be adding more fans this weekend. I have light air movement currently. Also found a few spider mites and sprayed Greencleaner to all plants. Current environment settings: Room Temp 72.74 F Room Humidity 63.63% (After spraying, Trending down). Room CO2 589PPM Tank PH 5.70 Tank PPM (500 Scale) 953 Tank Temp 74.05 F Day 20 Recalibrated my EC probe just to be sure it was also accurate. wasn't off by much. Dialed back my flooding to every 5 hours to encourage Rooting. <-- Strong roots = strong Plants Sprayed for mites

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cosecha de estas Black Muffin F1 de Sweetseeds. Esta variedad me resultó bastante sencilla de cultivary es bastante resistente, si no la maltratáis crece mucho y bien sana, la flor se ve increíble, tiene una cantidad de resina considerable y unos tonos rojos oscuros muy peculiares, se ven genial. El olor que desprende es bastante frutal con toques cítricos, no pinta nada mal, las flores están prietas. No da mayores problemas, el ciclo no es largo, cuiden con la altura ya que se desmadran un poco. IMPORTANTE destacar: En las fotos comprobaréis que ya no hay botes de cristal con sobres de bóveda, ahora hay Grovebags. Que son una especie de sobres o bolsas que retienen el peso, previene la aparición de moho y mantiene intacto el terpeno, para que el curado sea más óptimo. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Girls are packing on weight, the bushy girl WW1 (the only red 1)is definitely behind the rest in terms of flowering, kinda shitty as it’s the only one showing significant stress from the cold nights. Found some powdery mildew on 2/4 girls. Mixed up 10ml Apple cider vinegar with 1 quart of water and gave the infected leaves a spray, over sprayed on the buds hopefully that’s fine. PM seemed to instantly disappear, I will continue to monitor. It’s definitely from the drastic temp changes, 3 at night and 25 during the day. The midget has some flowers now, no nutes, no trimming and it’s a dense bush. Showing no signs of stress or PM. Maybe she will live well into the cold and produce some harvestable bud, we’ll see! Fall is around the corner!

I added another 4 tablespoons of pridelands bloom top dressed after defol. Still watering in brix, green aminos, armor si, calmag and great white everyday till max saturation

-Sensi Seeds Research: The Sensi Seeds Research breeding project has created eleven cannabis seed varieties. How? By combining new cannabis cultivars with a selection of strains from their long-established cannabis gene bank. For the first time in thirty-six years, they are opening the doors of the Sensi Seeds Research and Development Department. Week #13, week 5 of Flowering. Well well well... everything is going well 😄 Or should I say, swell swell swell... everything is going to swell 😉 As I said in previous week, they started to drink like maniacs ( 2 liters more in the week ), meaning swell is starting now (👈 the tip is free bro, just hit the like and subscribe if you want some more 😎), flowers opening is over. Dehumidifiers are set on 55% and will decrease 5% by 5% each weeks now. I will keep an eye on the buds, particularly the new genetics, as I never grow them before I don’t know their resistance to mold, but I believe these strains should be tough enough as everyone is in perfect condition and all healthy. I have finally found a better lightening solution for the middle of the room. You can really see the difference between Pictures A and B. The Mars Hydro SP 250 is definitely the best LED solution for its price, you can get a serious LED light which is bright enough to be able to grow some serious buds like a pro, and I can tell just by seeing the quality and the intensity of the spectrum from my experience. This LED light will make you say WOW when you plug it in and each time you will see it turning on, for sure 👍 Before receiving this baby, I’ve read the driver becomes hot, but in my definition something hot, is something that you can’t handle more than a few seconds... to be honest, for me this driver becomes a bit warm and you can handle it with no problem. And one last thing about this driver, it is removable, in case if you personally think it’s too hot for your growing area. So I would definitely recommend the SP 250 for anyone who has understand that serious buds grows under serious lights, without spending one month of salary in one light just to impress the galleria 😊 Enter in de dance, plug it in an we begin Crowd up in de center, they watch fi de rydim Watch the way we drop it in a mix timin’ Rise and amplifyin’ when we come in wit de swing Just followin the back and naturally harmonizin’ Climb into position wit synchronized things Live from out a ghetto, we maximazin’ We superstylin’ lin’ lin’ lin’... 😎 (I’m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control 🐞)

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) A seed germinated via skotomorphogenesis (in the dark) will generally develop faster in its initial stages to reach light, though it will be etiolated (elongated and weak) and will switch to slower, more robust photomorphogenesis (light development) once it emerges into light. While skotomorphogenesis is a rapid, growth-oriented process for soil escape, it's a temporary phase; photomorphogenesis is a more sustainable development program that prepares the seedling for photosynthesis. 18/6 with the 6 being IR instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. PPFD overnight 1.8. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches 50% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over, this creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. replicating high and low pressure fronts in nature, critical for oxygen diffusion, but more importantly, full control of your RH%. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, resulting in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow slower to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Some vertical growtg, about an inch. Got more leaf burn so moved the lamp away.

I have had a very nice journey growing her, she has given a great quality and quantity pf buds, very hard dense flowrs with a clasic strong amnesia smell that I enjoy a lot specially for the happy energetic buzz that provides you.

Yellow tips otherwise all good Idk if its nute burn or other issue trying to get it fixed 😄

I STARTED ON THE DIARY WAY TO EARLY. I HAD TO POP ADDITIONAL SEEDS DUE TO AN ENTIRE PACK NOT GERMINATING. AFTER THAT I EITHER BURNT OR INJURED A COUPLE SEEDS REMOVING A FEW HELMET HEADS. IM FEELING BETTER ABOUT THIS SEASON NOW THOUGH THAT THINGS ARE FINALLY IN THE RIGHT CONDITIONS. IM CONSIDERING POPPING A COUPLE MORE 10TH PLANET JUST IN CASE. WE'LL SEE. 4/20 Happy 420 and Easter to everybody! Checked the girls this morning and at noontime. It was a good idea to switch lights. I'm seeing positive growth under both the duel 1500 lumen cfl's and the 1000 watt l.e.d. with an actual draw of 105 watts. The single 150 hps couldn't go low enough without raising the temp. I may add it layer after transplant in edition to the l.e.d. the plant I had to put a straw on has perked itself up and now has 3 fingered leaves. I'll have to bury up the stem a little on a few after they fill these solo cups. I WATERED everything that was under 20 grams dry weight which was most everything. I'm seeing a dramatic difference thus far. I'm wondering if I should start a couple more 10th planet in case one doesn't make it. The kush seedlings have finally showed a little more advanced growth then the seeds popped later which makes me feel good. It will be interesting to see how these turn out. They are going to be extremely resilient high yielding potent plants that will make it to harvest early. Words have power. 4/21 The lighting switch is working out good. When the plants fill out the solos I'll put the hps back up and use both until they go to their final spits outdoors. I watered everything under the led light which is all pink/special kush. I watered a couple in the aerogarden if the were under 20 grams of dry soil weight. I may have to up the amount of water but I'll be keeping an wye out. Still wanting to pop a couple more 10th planet. I've seen the first 3 fingered leaf. Can't wait for this season. WENT BACK OVER AT 6PM AND EVERYTHING IS LOOKING GOOD. I HAVE THAT ONE PINK KUSH THAT STRETCHED AND I HAD TO PUT A STRAW ON IT IS PICK8NG UP WELL. IM JUST GOING TO HAVE TO BURU IT DEEPER WHEN I GO TO GALLON POTS. IT WAS NICE TODAY AND I GOT A LOT IF SELF CARE DOWN AND HAD SOME OTHER TROUBLES BUT SEEING MY GIRLS GROW UP MAKES ME HAPPY. IM GOING TO USE THE PAR METER AGAIN TOMORROW AND BEGIN CLEANING AND SANITIZING MY GROW AREA. I HAVE A LOT TO DO. 4/22 WATERED EVERYTHING AS IT WAS WITHIN 20 GRAMS DRY WEIGHT. Plants are improving. I'm FINALLY reaching REAL veg with a couple seedlings that have grown their first 3 finger leaves. I'm looking forward to the transplant to 1 gallon. They seem to explode after that. That and the few that stretched can be buried. Now it's time to hurry up and wait. The thing is, now that some have stretched they are growing leaves which makes it top heavy on a ciuplecdue to the elongated stem. Still looks good though. I also rotated the plants to minimize hot spots. 4/23 Things are doing well. I watered everything but two in the back of the aergarden that were still over 20-grams over dry weight and i added soil to the 10th planet cups. Not because they were stretching but just so I can weigh it with the others so I can water properly. I'll check on them later. The oldest seedlings have their first three fingered leaves. I've been shopping around for soil. I think I'll round up all my 1 gal pots and wash them as these will need a transplant in a while. I should check the ppfd again. I also need to ready my outdoor area and sanitize it. Plenty of stuff to do. May still end up popping a couple more 10th planet. Not sure. EDIT: WENT OVER THIS AFTERNOON AND LOCATED ALL MY ONE GALLON POTS (AND A COUPLE OF THOSE SLANTED ONES THAT ARE A LITTLE MORE THAN A GALLON). FPUND THE 3'S TOO BUT IM GOING INTO ONES THEN HOME BABY HOME. AT LEAST THATS THE PLAN. I EMPTIED LAST YEARS GROW BAGS AND BURNED THE LAST OF TEO CANNABIS STALKS. I STILL NEED TO DEEP CLEAN THE CAGE. I JEED TO SPRAY THE PALLETS WITH THAT PESTICIDE THAT KILLS EARWIGS (THE ONES I CANT REPLACE). I ALSO NEED TO GET ALL THE LOOSE SOIL THATS FALKEN OVER THE YEARS AND THE LEAVES OUT OF THE CAGE. LEAF BLOWER AND A RAKE WILL TAKE CARE OF THAT. I HAVE A BRUSH BURNER AND I WAS THINKING ABOUT USING IT BUT THEN REALITY SUNK IN. AT LEAST I GOT SOME WORK DONE. WASHED UP NIDE AND PUT ON HAND SANITIZER TO CHECK ON THE GIRLS. THEY LOOK GREAT TO ME. I QUICKLY SHOT TWO PICS AND BEAT FEET. I SHOULDVE NOT GONE IN AT ALL BUT THAT WAS THE POINT OF ME GOING THERE. TO CHECK IN THE GIRLS. IM SURE THEY'LL BE FINE. 4/24 Had to go back and water. I watered the two in the ag that weren't watered before. Most of the cups under the l.e.d were right on the cusp (220, 218 ect.) I watered a couple and left the others that weighed a tad more and misted the top with a spray bottle so it won't totally dry out. I'll check later but they are growing at a rapid pace now. I'll probably end up watering. I'll probably have to up the volume. I think I'm going to go get a bag of ffof to put in the house and warm up. That way I cam transplant whenever I want. I'll check around for prices. EDIT: Went to the local grow store and bought 3cf of Fox Farm Ocean Forest which will be mixed with the 2cu bag of Happy Frog I already have when I transplant into the 1 gallons pots. I got prices for all the soil so now I just need to figure out how many bags of each I need. I want to get it early so it's still there. I'll be doing my math. Went back over and and as predicted the three cups under the led were "almost" within ten grams of dry weight. They probably could've waited (212, 211, 208) but they are close to breaking the ten grams over dry limit that seems to be doing good for me. I showed my commercial buddy cause he hasn't seem them a while and I could tell he was impressed. I'll take pictures tomorrow. I cleaned the cage a little bit more. My buddy thinks going into 1 gals is the better option than going into 3's. If I have to then it would just be the bigger plants and I have a few gallon and a half ones I'll use for the bigger plants. Still debating whether to pop more seeds and pheno hunt or just go with what I've got. What I've got is looking good. I just don't want to lose any. Might be smart to start a couple extra. 4/25 WATERED EVERYTHING I think. I might think about increasing water volume of water I give at a time. I'll probably stick with whats working since I use the scale anyway. The kush under the l.e.d dries out faster than the cfl. They both are working good and I'm getting some good node development. The earlier plants are actually looking like a pot plant. I may start next week with a weak nutrient solution like ancient amber or the first fox farm one. Worked on some more of the cage. I'm ready to go! 4/26 WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE BACK ROW OF THE AEROGARDEN WHICH WERE STILL IN RANGE. Plants are getting big. Transplant with the kush might be next week. 10th planet is doing incredible for being so young. Mk Ultra doing good as well. I thought about popping a few more and then pheno hunting but I'll probably stick with what I've got. I'm loving what I'm seeing.

So Blue gelato left. this week with nutes then start to flush. -day 60 update Looking ready, almost every trichome cloudy. I'll start flushing and day 70 30th dec it will be cutted. But I will check those trichomes again. If I get lots of amber ones before day 70 harvest will come sooner.. and other way around, I want there to be couple amber ones. Very nice dank blueberry smell here😋 Shoutout to Barney's for nice genetics for both this Blue getato 41 and Gorilla Zkittles 👊😎 -day 63 So I got me a little better loop to check trichomes. (usb mikroscope coming up) and they were almost all cloudy a few amber ones also. So I flushed her with 5L of water and flawless finish and now I wait for soil to dry up and couple feeds with falwless finish and were done here. 😎👌 -66 last flawless finish 4ml in 3l of water. Ok now there is almost none clear trichs cloudy everywhere and some amber ones. I'll wait 48 hours after next light cycle goes dark then I'll chop her down. so 3 more days and it´s gonna be 68 full days in the end.

Bueno esta semana le dimos engorde y un riego con guano , no veo que estén engondarno mucho así que seguro lo vamos a dejar unas semanas más de lo previsto , para cosechar cuando estén bien gordos los cogollos