Evening, Cannafam and Happy Easter to those of you that celebrate it 🐇 This has been yet another great week with my 3 Green Crack girls. I can't remember if I mentioned it in my last update but I switched out my 300 watt Viperspectra LED for my 600 watt Mars Hydro, also lollipopped the 3 of them and whenever I see a leaf that I didn't notice in my initial defoliation that is obstructing light to bud sites I pop it off but never more than a few leaves at a time. The plants are pretty much in auto pilot right now just cruising. There's no more maintenance left to do on them and aside from feeding them I don't really have to do much except setback and wait on my weed lol

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Hallo und herzlich Willkommen zu einem etwas anderen Gropwbericht. Die Blueberry Zkittlez Automatic von Sensi Seeds (der Strain heißt jetzt Blueberry Candiez Automatic) hatte ich letztes Jahr bereits angebaut und war vom Geschmack total begeistert. Deshalb baue ich den jetzt wieder an und dazu die Blueberry Automatic von Zamnesia Seeds, die schon einige Zeit in meiner Samenbank liegt. Mal sehen, wie sich die Pflanzen unterscheiden. Die URL der Blueberry Automatic von Zamnesia Seeds: https://www.zamnesia.com/de/3323-zamnesia-seeds-blueberry-automatic-feminisiert.html Die URL der Blueberry Zkittlez Automatic von Sensi Seeds: https://sensiseeds.com/de/research/blueberry-candiez-automatic Beide Strains erhalten die gleichen Bedingungen. Beide stehen in einem 9 Liter doppellagigen Stofftopf von ROOTIES (ChillWelten war der Vorgänger der Firma, heute heissen alle ROOTIES), beide haben die Sonnenerde Bio Hanferde und bekommen und später gibt's noch eine Mulchschicht mit Sonnenerde Bio Faser. Beide haben am Anfang eine Bioledex mit 10W im gleichen Abstand. Tag 70: Die Blueberry Auto von Zamnesia Seeds hat Spinnmilben bekommen und wird sicherheitshalber separiert. Da waren wohl nicht genügend Raubmilben in den 2 Packungen und die Florfliegenlarven hätten das eigentlich auch verhindern müssen. Tag 70: Die Blueberry Zkittlez Automatic von Sensi Seeds hat Blattläuse bekommen und wird sicherheitshalber separiert. Schau mal wieder rein, wenn es dir gefallen hat. Schönes Adventwochenende und bleibt friedlich und humorvoll. ✋😎

I’m just giving water this week and she seems to be doing great, happy color and healthy stems! I’m going to be giving a tea in addition to their watering some time soon but other than that she’s been on cruise control 🤙 I did alternate my fans around in the tent to avoid wind burn and I also added a dehumidifier to my room that has my grow tent so I can gradually bring the RH down as needed. If there’s anything I can do to improve please, feel free to let me know!

Helo there, This is my 3 grow the fist time I made mistakes on ph level and nutrients quality.. first time just 20 gr from plant. Can you advise me for best result .. I want to improve the yields and I believe I make mistake during flowering stage.. this is end of 4th week and I have just add Calmag, Biobizz bloom and now big bud... Did I do good?? Help please

March 13, 2019 Update: Transplanted and moved one of the CBD Medi Kush plants into the Flower room this weekend. The other seedling will remain in the veg tent for another month, then I’ll pick the next plants to move into flower. I’d like to keep a 6 plant per month rotation going in flower. Also, switching over to organic feeding. Feeding with Living Water (2-3 ounces of fish tank water per gallon of well water) and also trying Jobe's Organics Fertilizer Spikes for Vegetables 2-7-4. I planted 5 spikes per 5 gallon grow bag. I pushed the spikes down finger depth about 2/3's of the way from the base of the stem to the side of the bag and spread the 5 spikes evenly around the pots. The plan is to just add water from here on out and see how it goes. I have 'high hopes', I recently read "True Living Organics" by The Rev and he seems to be a big fan of spikes and living water. I did change to a new 1000W HPS bulb in the flower room. The old bulb was in use for 3 months. p.s. I'm starting a couple new diaries next, check em out! 👍

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

6 seeds auto speed bud from seedman. Using peat pellet to germinate and directly buried into 2 gallon fox farms o ocean forest soil. Using RO water. So will need to add cal mag. After a few nodes grow. This is my second grow. First grow a GSC clone. is currently drying in the same tent. Using a iffy method. But the plant had a lot of deficiency’s and was not worth taking care of 100%. Lights were switched back to 18/6 after harvesting the photo.

Anyone got any thoughts wheter i should switch them to flower now?

Keifer brewed out for 72 hours for the b complex viatmins and all the microbes. Did you know that your gut flora. I.e your gut bacteria is generally the same as the soil microbes. Anyway microbes are making these plants grow so fast.

this grow stretched a t least an extra week my last 2 grows were ripe in 8 weeks .There re no hermi flowers and its going to be at minimum 9 weeks mabe 10 to get ripe .dont know why it stretched into week 6 of flower when its normally 4 weeks stretching the buds are now getting filled in and solid just have to wait i guess

Very sweet fruity cake aroma from this plant! Started flushing, hopefully will chop in the next week or so!

Hello Growers and Tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 We'll got progress going! Pictures taken on day 42 of flower. The smell is something that i'm loving. Although one smells stonger and sweeter than the other, they both are smelling great. I had my doubts about the nugs not being big or hard but it seems like the green sensation is doing it's job. There's been a good progress since i've started using Green Sensation. Glad to see that. In flower I feed with only water and 2ml/L of enzymes. Once about 10 days. Resin prodcution has gone up, buds are denser and a bit bigger. Which is good given that most of the pistils are still white and they fatten up more when they rippen. As long as things keep a stable progress, i think i'm good.