"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

WEEK 8 Finally calibrated my ph meter and get everything sorted. Ph is now 5.5 but it should slowly building up to 6.0 I lightened the feeding because of some signs of overfeeding but nothing too dramatic. Very strong citrusy smell. One of the plants is incredibly frosty for it's age and all buds look pretty dense so I can't wait what is gonna happen over next few weeks. Giving them pretty much max recommended dose of CANNA BOOST so I hope it's gonna give me some good results in terms of taste and smell. :) Oh and I finally got new 600W bulb

111g de buds secs et d'une qualité vraiment supérieure, un goût très fruité et sucré sur fond terreux 😋😍 De petits buds mais en grosse quantité, incontournable, je conseille vraiment cette strain même aux débutants !

At the end of flushing and fade, I just cut down crystal candy xl auto for drying. Thanks again sweet seeds. This is a amazing smelling cannabis plant. It Looks like nice dense buds and a decent yield with a nice amount of trichromes. Will be back once dried for sign out and amounts in a week or two. Thanks again for likes, follows, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. I Appreciate the support. Happy growing everyone and be safe.

So week 2 lets see what this will produce ,transplanted few days ago and looking good so far ,they enjoying some root juice and Dynamyco

What is up you sexy displays of humanness? It's week something lol.. 9 I think. I always forget if a week is passed then counted or vice versa lol. The plants look waaaaay better from the first time I flowered. I think the environmental controls like the AC and the light distance are finally all getting locked in. I could be messing up nutrients but based on what I see I'm not burning or underfeeding to my knowledge. I'm praying for that last fattening week for these things to bulk up because I'm pretty sure they have maybeeeeee 2 weeks then a 3-day flush. Yall are the experts though so feel free to weigh in. Especially with the plants looking all over the place. Ill bust out the electronic microscope for some trichome pics next week closer towards harvest time. I keep reading it's a long flower and they still have a lot of white pistons. Plants are hella icier though compared to the first run, they look stickier, and overall I'm feeling more accomplished. I can't tell if I'm leagues away from pulling 1 lb per plant. Now the right light...... ugh.. idk why but I was trying to get my damn BN link dual timer programmed bc I have the closet in there still vegging and once I plugged everything in that right light had half the board go out again. This happened a while back and after I've checked all the connections it just randomly came back on one day and I have not questioned it over the months. Kinda pissed I cant have 1 smooth day but that's life I guess haha. oh weird question but my rooms are completely sealed. they don't really have ducting or new air pumping in. Could the plants be suffocating themselves getting that big and flowering in a closed room? I've heard the air you breathe is more than enough most time and I don't want to burn unnecessary money but If they are logically just not getting enough Co2 to transpire then.. ya.. you get my point lol. Oh and I scratched the pk 13/14 bc i felt like I was pushing my luck with it only recommended for 1 week and also it's about the end of my knowledge so I figured cutting something extra was the safe bet. the leaves are all dark too

This was a fantastic plant to grow, and although it doesn't have the strongest resistance to mold, I think that if I were to grow it again I could avoid the issue. I am starting to figure out how to maximize my grow space! Come check out my next grow when you get a chance!

Day 43 : Watering with co2 tab / 5L. Also added food again because i think they need it. Increased ppm to 850. Maybe the next one will be pure water. Ventilation works all the time when lights are on. Temp and humi are stable and this is good for the girls. 4 cm in 3 days and stretch almost finished, time for production. Patience is the key always. Also removed some burned leaves from all ladies. Her smell is lemony and look forward as fuck for this one. Edit (Day 47) : Watering with co2 tab every 5L. I watered with juices again at 850ppm because i felt that they need it. Only DsD drank pure water because of burns. Blue Cheese smelling very lemony and citrus. She will be very stinky. Started to fatten. Grow 4cm in 4 days. She likes juices also.

What happened to the Purple Kosher? It grew several bananas and since I don't want to throw it away, I tried to cut off every banana I could find. For two days now it didn't grow more bananas, but it feels like the booster dosis was wasted on banana growth :( The Lemon Mandarin is going really strong with thick buds for this flowerday and it smells really strong like mandarins. Almost like you peeled one inside the tent. The Bruised Banana has a soft, fruity smell and the Papaya Sherbert probably takes 1 - 2 weeks more than the other 3 plants. Fertilizers were 1 g of Pflanzengeflüster on 10 L Plant Booster 3g on 10 L Weedtamine 10g on 10 Liters

Note : Jegliches Equipment aufgelistet welches ich nutze findet Ihr in der Germinations Woche !!! Day 15 : ich weiss noch nicht ob der mineralische dünger wirklich sofort etwas gebracht hat . schauen wir was die zeitraffer so vermitteln. ist es seit gestern schneller am wachsen ? Day 16 : PPFD 275 * 20h = DLI 19.8 Day 17: + 0.5L Flaschenwasser (EC 0.26) + + Canna Rizothonic + + Canna Terrar Vega + = Total EC 0.68 (PH 7.2) + Final PH 6.15 Day 18: es wächst Day 19: es wächst immer noch ventilation übern blätterdach angemacht. ich glaub daher kommt das ruckeln im video Day 20: + 0.5L Flaschenwasser (EC 0.26) + + Canna Rizothonic + + Canna Terrar Vega + = Total EC 0.68 (PH 7.2) + Final PH 6.15 + 0.5L Leitungswasser (PH 8.0) Der Stamm hat sich in den letzten 3 Tagen verdreifacht vom Volumen. Jetzt hat er so Bleistift dicke erreicht. Day 21: die temps und relative luftfeuchte sind hier zwischen 58%-68% und 23.5°-25.5°C . reguliert sich aber immer zu den höheren werten . ist hier halt so :))

All mixed up but leave ur comments on wat yas think first grow

to mutch cold here 2 week with low temps at night cicle betwen 12 &16 graus in europe. maybe this is the reason of that purple orange colors (:

Little closer missed couple weeks but nothing really new yet just waiting to fatten up

Doing a bit of defoliation thats it Giving all the plants more clear water because i overfeed them. Next time definitely with scrog . Good genetics love it

Attention to detail

Nice flowering, nice days. Nice week. Need sunny days.

Slight nutrient burn on the super silver haze and the banana. I have backed them up in feed from 10ml per gallon back to 8, it seems to have done the trick the last couple days. Both banana and super silver haze are trucking along quite well I think otherwise. I have officially decided to start my flushing on the black domina x Scott's og, trichomes are about half milky half clear, not sure if I should be doing a full flush or continue feeding through week 7 and start flush on week 8 I'm not overly sure lol see how it goes anyway. Cheers

Too much humidity and not enough airflow, so added a fan and lowered again the amount of water I am giving them and remembered not to water when lights is going off but rather do it when they come on! This strain is very vigorous and produces good sizes lovely buds that smells like a Grapefruit sour candy, very nice! I am hoping she will fatten a bit more. Still 2 to 3 weeks to go. Only water this week too

Nourri a l'eau uniquement.