Work one of the two to bloom 👌

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

I was traveling ... to give information ... the temperature has dropped ... I think she will be even slower outdoor ...

Week 12 (14-4 to 20-4) 14-4 Temps: 19.7 to 23.5 degrees Humidity: 45% to 68% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 15-4 Temps: 19.2 to 27.1 degrees Humidity: 52% to 69% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 1.5 Light set from 65% to 70% strength. Did a big defoliation today. (Schwazzing) Removed 141 grams of leaves. 16-4 Temps: 20.6 to 25.8 degrees Humidity: 54% to 66% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 17-4 Temps: 18.5 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 60% to 68% 18-4 Temps: 18.7 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 56% to 71% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 19-4 Temps: 18.4 to 24 degrees Humidity: 54% to 70% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 20-4 Temps: 18.3 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 51% to 71% Watering: 1750 ml. EC: 0.4 Light is at 70% strength with a distance of 37/40 cm. Also installed a stronger exhaust fan as the humidity is getting a bit high.

05/04/2024, last pruning, rapid flush, EC down to 0.9, Falsh Clean @3ml/L, from now to harvest I will refill the tank with water EC 2 (approx. 3L/Day (target EC should be close to 0.3 at cut, Sunday or Monday). I stopped the heating control, and set day ligth to 14h and will follow decreasing 1h/day, till 8h light only. 10/04/2024 This is amazing, this year no rush to harvest, we can wait and I have to say it seems to us it's still getting fatter! My issue now is that the humidity has some pics at 100% at night! What could I do?!?!? 11/04/2024 EC dropped at 0.7 by adding only water, pH was up to 6.7 but back to 6.5.

Tag7

4/5: Took 4 cuttings from the shortie 4/12: All 4 are rooted and growing! 5/1: Transplanted from 1gallon pots to 5 gallon pots. 5/3: Decided to grow one of them in my tiny tent and the other 3 will go outdoors. 5/4: Took 2 of them outdoors under the 270w and sunshine. 5/6: Trained all of them today and fed some boomerang along with the kelp, molasses, big bloom, and silica. Foliar fed and took the last one outdoors. The one in the tent is really flourishing! 5/7 - 5/17: Excellent growth! The supplemental lights are making all the difference.👍 Did some more training on all of them early in the week. The one in the closet is spreading out nicely and budding up pretty quickly...but what's very cool is that all 4 clones outdoors are flowering?!?!? I sure hope they go ahead and finish rather than starting to revegetate as the days continue to get longer. Much rain for the past few days, but it let up long enough for me to install another 200w of waterproof 3000k LED lights a couple of feet above them. Very intense lighting, great bang for the buck. So now, I've got 350w of 3000k and 120w of 6500k in the outdoor garden. That's gonna have to do it, as I also am using 1400w in my indoor gardens, plus a/c..bills are getting ridiculous. 5/18 - 5/28: The clone in the tent is still stacking up really well. I guess the ones outdoors are too, but next to the seedling plants, they seem puny. Many buds though... Since they decided to flower early, I sprayed them all down with a product that is loaded with hormones and auxins and stuff that's supposed to retard vertical growth and promote branching. It's also supposed to speed arvest time by as much as a week. I hope they can finish before the summer solstice (June 21), otherwise they might try to reveg instead of finishing.. Hopefully it helps keep them from stretching so much that I'll have to supercrop them. Their mamma was a shortie, so they really shouldn't get too tall anyway. I also foliar fed them several times this week with something called MicroLife Maximum Blooms, Pow! They love the stuff! 5/28 - 5/31: I did some training on a two of the outdoor clones early in the week between rain showers, and foliar fed with Microlife maximum bloom formula. She was looking a little N deficient, so I assume the dry amendments have petered out. They were dry enough, so I top-fed her with another couple tablespoons of cavern culture and on the 31st. I gave them big bloom, tiger bloom, grow big, beastie bloomz, silica, endoboost, signal, humic acid, liquid kelp/fish emulsion, and liquid molasses. The indoor clone is looking awesome. I fed her heavily on the 30th. It just feels so strange that I'll be harvesting outdoor photos in June!?! That's it for week 8- 6/1 - 6/8: Early in the week I gave them about a half gallon of water with liquid molasses, cal-mag, silica, and beastie bloomz only. I foliar fed them a couple of times during the week, right at daybreak. I fed them on Saturday, the 6th..about a gallon each..beastie bloomz, microlife maximum blooms, cal-mag, humic acid, grow big, big bloom, sweet & sticky, and signal. They are looking very good..buds galore. The indoor clone got the same nutes, but on different days. She's also covered in buds, and they are beginning to fatten up.👍 6/9-7/4: Busy with other gardens, so not many updates... Indoor clone got to spend the last 2 weeks of her life in my closet under the quantum boards and UVB. I harvested and washed her buds on 6/28, let her hang dry and weighed and jarred her up on the 4th of July. She came in a 111g of cola and 45g of lower bud with only about 5g of larf. Nice!👍 She smells just like her mommy and has the same uber-dense buds. She was topped, so the buds aren't as mighty as the mamma's, but much more plentiful.👌 Outdoor clones: I had a massive spider mite attack, and during the same week, I had a grasshopper invasion...I lost a few plants, one of which as a FFT1 clone. I had just harvested my autos and my indoor clones from the closet, so I moved the remaining two clones in under the quantum boards. I treated them for spider mites several ways for several days and have given them much TLC. Hopefully their buds fatten up some more. They stanky, but they kinda slim... 7/11: I harvested the last two clones tonight. So sticky!!! I washed them and hung them to dry.

The three in the foreground are transitioning white widows that are not being tracked. This week the bud sites have been fattening some. I noticed some minor leaf tip burn on these girls and moved the light up a few inches to compensate. 🌿👀

Welcome to my Øpium diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Feeding: Tue 23Jul: 4L nutrients pH'd 6.5 and 4L water not pH'd Wed 24Jul: 10L water not pH'd Thu 25Jul: 4L water not pH'd Fri 26Jul: 8L water not pH'd Sat 27Jul: 4L nutrients pH'd 6.5 and 2L water not pH'd Sun 28Jul: 10L water not pH'd Mon 29Jul: 8L water not pH'd *please note that most water only feedings are 2L at the time throughout the day in bottom saucer* ___________________________ What a beautiful summer that we're having. Just one day last week it was cloudy and colder and got some rain, rest of the week sublime weather. My Ðivine Ladies are pre flowering and hopefully will be blooming soon, next week update should be FLO fingers crossed😄 ______________________________ Øpi was found with a spider mites nest..squished the squatter with my thumb and index... all 3 Ðivine Gals got the spa treatment, soap insecticide spray 2 litres each soaked them real good, before flowering it was a smart move😉 ______________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

FAT BANANA 🍌 AUTO / RQS WEEK #13 OVERALL WEEK #8 FLOWER This week was the last week for this lady been flushing her to get her ready for harvest. She's looking good buds covered with trichomes she's smelling fierce 😉 makes your mouth water. Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you RQS!! FAT BANANA 🍌 AUTO / RQS

What up family, weekly update on these girls. I raised the lights 6in this week to allow some stretch but still keeping 400-600ppfd at the canopy level. Over all they're progressing beautifully. I started adding 2.5ml/gal of Athenas Blended line Grow A & B. Haven't seen any burnt leaf tips so I think they'll be OK adding a little boost. All in all Happy Growing.

Day 97 Nothing more to say just enjoy :D right one still struggling but she is getting there. Big buds also the biggest stretch and very much sativa pheno like.

I’m to busy sorry

-06.04.2025 Today is the day. After a thorough examination of the trichomes, I decided to harvest the two Blueberry Automatics. After a total of eleven weeks. The wet weight of the flowers of Blueberry#1 = 77 grams, Blueberry#2 = 74 grams. The flowers are now hung out to dry and will be weighed again in 7days. -11.04.2025 After 6 days the Blueberry Automatics are dry. The branches broke directly when bent with a nice cracking sound. The dry weight of both plants together is 34g. The flowers were stored in jars for curing with a humidity packet from IntegraTM and a hydrometer. Total Time: 1879,36h Total Energy: 326,30kWh 1kWh: 0,30€ Energy Cost total: 97,89€ 💚

Veg15, han crecido como 2 centímetros desde el transplante, aún no necesitan riego, desde ahora regaré cada 3~4 días, cuando el sustrato este un 80~90% seco, han estirado un poco desde que subí la distancia del LED y bajé su intensidad, mañana haré Main Lining. Veg16, hoy se torturaron las plantas con Main Lining, se cortó arriba del segundo nodo y se cortaron también las hojas de un dedo bajo el primer nodo, las plantas que tenían suficiente crecimiento de les hizo LST también, cuando se apague la luz se efectuará un spray foliar con B-52, y mañana un nuevo riego. Veg17, riego con 5.5 pH y EC 1.8~1.9, se regaron con 1.5 litros y no se obtuvo drenaje, próximo riego tendrá que ser con más cantidad de agua para obtener drenaje, el agua se calentó a 23 grados y se oxigenó antes de regar, mañana se ajustará el LST ya que siguen creciendo muy bien. Veg18, hoy solo se ajusto el LST, siguen creciendo bien. Veg19, ajuste de LST, nada más que anotar. Veg20, siguen creciendo, talvez hay que ajustar la cantidad de luz DLI. Veg21, tuve que poner una estufa para aumentar la temperatura en el indoor y bajar la intensidad del LED a un 50% para alcanzar un DLI óptimo. Hoy haré ajuste de LST y revisar la humedad del sustrato.

I got my humidity under control. From now on there is only H2O without fertilizer. But I think my gorilla is a little too brown. I really hope it has to be that way. Otherwise all the other ladies are looking great.

18. Day