THIS IS A COMPLETE SETUP GROW im not sure anyone can see this, but it is to help anyone DWC. THIS IS NOT TO BE INCLUDED IN DIARY OF THE MONTH. Week 2 adding 10ml of aqua vega , 20 ml of rhizotonic , check ph and ppm , my water is 0.4 EC , I make the solution up to 1.0 EC, RHIZOTONIC makes the ph go up .

Issue with my stretchy Cookie has been resolved, gave her a little bit to much food. Apperantly she is more a sativa pheno. Gonna resume feed next watering @ 1/2 strength on her and build up from there. The rest of the girls are in perfect condition👌 and yeah i know i need to defol😉 gonna do this bit by bit this week ( low stress defol ) Rock on Dr Greenthumb's👍

Cut!!! Sechage curing et smoke test!!

Sorprendido gratamente del resultado final tanto de producción como de sabor/efecto.

40l bowls with new living soil mix 10% 4 plants in a tent with mars hydro FC-6500 4 plants in a tent with 2 SANlight 5 150 Ab heute laufen die Tests der Lampen die für zukünftige Grows benutz werden könnten

*Increased ppm from 950 to 1050. *the plants where to big so I did do some trimming on them and took clones. *Started flowering. Hope the size is not an issue maybe I’ll cut it down some more.

What to say...this girls are awesome, 2 super different phenos. Awesome smell Still not figured out whats that pattern on sativa one but i think 15 days i’ll make the cut. Getting closeer

08-11-2022 Primer día de la 4ta semana. Recordar q sufrieron un estrés de agua por ende la planta va a ir desfasada una semana, yo pienso. Aun no tiene resina y me preocupa, espero q empiece a resinar antes de terminar esta 4ta semana... 14-11-2022 Ultimo día de la semana 4 de flora Ya empiezan a resinar todas de apoco, la pandemia kush se ve un poquito más avanzada a el resto

Vyzerajú pripravené na kvet🤪ešte 1 týždeň ,myslím🤔🤔

Hello everyone, Not much to say about these girls. This week I started giving them some nutrients so lets see how they turn out now... See you guys next week.. 🤘🤘👊👊👊

So far I haven't had any issues besides some N toxicity from C.S.S. in early flowering. I wanted to check if there was some mold or rot on the buds at the back so I removed the scrog net since its job was done. Everything was just fine.😅😅 I also ran out of Sugar Royal and I don't feel like buying another one so lets hope for the best😜

Day 78 plants are now going to grow outdoor. Clones coming along nicely. This week I'm giving the mothers a chance to get used to outdoor grow. Day 84, mother enjoying the sun, got 91 clones from the first 3 batches.

beginning of week 7 of flower: This week was really tough for this plant. 2 times the power outlet seemed to have some issue. I think it’s a physical hardware issue inside the wall. I’ve ran the extension cord from another location in the room, and haven’t had any issues since. Considering she only got about 5 hours of light in a 48 hour span, I feel she’s looking pretty good. The smell of the plant is really getting strong. When I first open the tent there’s an almost overwhelming citrus smell in the air. I really enjoy it.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

I found a seed in a bud of super lemon haze. Put into the soil and the magic starts. Good luck to me 🙌🏻🙌🏻

Hey all! Finally! This is the last week of veg! :D I know Matcha still has a lot of things going on but I believe I've waited more than enough for this (10 weeks is a lot considering one of the plants is still small and the other one isn't as big as it should be). Both are also starting to drink more water compared to before! Pistachio is now getting thirstier a lot faster now! I defoliated both plants and I'll do it again in about 3 more weeks to allow the lower budsites receive more light. I believe I could've trimmed a bit more heavily but I believe what I did was enough, they have been going thru some issues and I don't want to risk it all. I also removed all the small growtips in my plants, the ones that are just going to never develop very well because they are way too low and no light will reach them well. Anyway. see you all next week! ;)

Ai Gude Growmies es wird langsam richtig frostig auf den Buds❄️🌌 Seit Blüte Tag 50 überschritten wurde sehe ich täglich wie die Buds Immer mehr Trichome produzieren und Gewicht!❄️❄️❄️ Mimosa die wie beim vorherigen Grow etwas länger brauchen wird nur dieser Klon entwickelt wahrscheinlich wegen Phosphor Mangel zu diesen bunten Spektakel. Aber die Mutter Pflanze wo jetzt davor in die Blüte kam war schon ziemlich groß und musste diesen Klon im aktuellen grow auch Reveggen und trotzdem hat er Größere und schönere Buds entwickelt! Im bekannten Kreis sagen sie auch man meint es wären 2 verschiedene Strains und keine Klone. Habe die White Widow XXL ordentlich entlaubt da ich etwas nachlässig war haben sich an 3 stellen Mehltau niedergelassen. Ich komme nie über 45% LF Nachts eher so 38-42% im Durchschnitt ,Tags über sogar 30-35% LF. Mehltau infiziert waren sie alle leider aber hatte ihn erfolgreich behandelt jetzt am Ende der Blüte entferne ich die Blätter und tupfe sie vorher mit bio Mehltau EX ab. AK47 Hatte auch vorbeugend einen kahl schlag unten rum. Ein Klon aus Feminisierten Samen der sich zuerst absolutes Bastard Cannabis war entwickelte sich zu einem stämigen kompakten Indica zwerg mit schlechten Blüten/Blatt Verhältnis dafür extrem starken oldshool Skunk Duft mit Chemie,Erde und nassen Hund. Die Super Lemon Haze sollte eigentlich eine neue Mutter Pflanze werden aber wurde zu spät geschnitten die hätte ich eher austauschen. Weil man erkennt wenn die Bilder vom Start sieht das die nur 1 bis 3 finger Blätter hatte bzw nur ganz wenige mit mit mal 5 und die Buds sind diesmal auch nicht so Groß und fluffig wie davor sondern sehr kompakt und erinnert mehr an Indica von der Blüten Struktur und Festigkeit. Der Geruch ist auch mehr in Richtung Chemie/Katzenpisse was ich sehr begrüße. Nach ndl und 1 led grow und jetzt der 3 mit den selben Genetiken kann ich jetzt schon sagen dass ich Super Lemon Haze und Ak47 erstmal lange Zeit nicht mehr growen. Ich weiß nicht ob es Einbildung ist oder wirklich so das ich konstant zu jeden Durchgang bessere Ergebnisse bekam aber die Pflanzen von Serious Seeds und Green House Seeds nicht so darauf ansprach wie die Genetiken von Barney's Farm. Grade die White Widow XXL hat mich wirklich überrascht ich war anfangs enttäuscht weil die Pflanze fast wie eine reine sativa wächst in der vegi Phase die ohne toppen safe über 150cm geworden. Wenn man die mit der SLH vergleichen will habe beide lange Internodien Abstände und kaum Blätter wuchs bzw Super Blüte/Blatt Verhältnis! Nur an den Blüten der WW die extrem Kompakt und Schwer werden zeigt sich der angebliche 75% Indica Anteil mit bis zu 26% THC. Das XXL am ende hat sich der strain verdient!!! Was in den 90er WW und AK47 waren und in den 2000er Die SLH als hype Strains hat es Barneys farm geschafft für mich die WW so zu updaten Dass sie sich Aroma und Geschmack so wie Wirkung wie damals Riecht, schmeckt und kickt. Konnte mehrfach bei Bekannten das Apotheken White Widow unterschiedlicher Preise und Herkunft probieren und je nach Qualität war es OK für den Preis. Mr nice guy seeds Black Widow oder die ww Inbreed line von GHS ist auch absolut empfehlenswert wer den Hype von damals nachvollziehen möchte. Die WW von Barney's Farm will ich mit GMO mal "ersetzen" oder aus Regulären Samen Mutter Pflanzen selektieren. Die Mimosa Evo war was die Genetik angeht es neuste im Zelt und habe vorher lange recherchiert weil mir die ganzen neuen Candy Ice Dessert sweet tutti frutti breath nicht so zusagen aber ich eine Sorte wollte die bis zu30%THC erreichen kann und mit Farbe:D Mich hat damals schon Tangerine Dream absolut positiv überrascht mit Süßen Mandarine am anfang und g13 und Nevilles A5 Haze im abgang und sehr stark war die zu der Zeit. Mimosa Evo riecht hauptsächlich fruchtig nach Orange, Zitrone und Waldbeeren beim Rauchen kommt PP durch und Erde,Diesel gasig. In diesem Grow verwende ich das erste mal CANNA Terra Professional Plus Erde und Hydrokugel im Topf Boden. So wie CANNAZYM und CANNA Calmag Agent. Man sieht und riecht den Unterschied schon zum vorherigen Grow mit BioBizz All Mix Erde und BB Calmag. Ich möchte die Erde von Canna wiederverwen weshalb ich mir CANNAZYM holte. Bin vorsichtig bei Zusätze Dünger wie z.b Wurzel Stimmulator hatte bis her nie Probleme im wurzel Bereich. MONO Präparate sind absolut brauchbar wenn man gezielt Mangel Erscheinungen bekämpfen will. Habe vor 21 angefangen zu Growen mal größer mal kleiner aber konstant mit kleinen Pausen seitdem dünge ich Mineralisch mit CANNA und Guano. Organisch Düngen werde ich allein deswegen schon testen wegen Geschmack und Aroma. Denke bis spätestens 22.5 sind alle rdy und Mein Grow report ist dann abgeschlossen 😍🌈🌌 *Update * muss die Leistung der Lampe drosseln sie wird einfach zu warm aber bei fast 26C° tagsüber kann ich schwer die heiße Luft austauschen obwohl die abluft in einen anderen Raum geleitet wird.

Smelling great!