1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Great performance so far, few fox tails but I have reduced light intensity and increased air flow so have seen an improvement. Lots of white hairs for flowering still, looks like it will be a big plant and a good growth. Looking forward to see next week's growth!

Added net, did a bit more defoiliation. no signs of nute excess so added a small bit of pk booster

Hello people, how are you all? So, week 7 and we are almost there! They are good, no complaints about them. See you next week with new updates. Thank you all for following my Diaries. Love you!

Amazing to mix with water pH and EC easy to reach the desired point

Went away for a week and missed ideal harvest. Unfortunately, the harvest seems to have been fried to a crisp. Last time I share the responsibility. :(

So far the best plants here without a doubt are the Grapefruits witch are covefed in frost, followed by the Kola Kushes than are not as frosty but are doing well, and finally the Ble Dreams wich are being absolutely disapointing, with hughe internodal spaces with only a few sad calyxes growing on them...

After 48 hours, these things are beast. I thought they needed more time, I couldn’t judge how long they were. I had to dig them out of the paper towel, learned that I need to use cheaper paper towels. 6 out of 6 germinated on my first grow. Let’s keep the same growth going. ******************************* 14 Hours After Potting ************** TEMPS The most recent video showing the domes is 14 hours after potting them. The temps have been very stable at 83F and 70% humidity. My ambient temp outside of the tent is 70F. AIR FLOW I’m currently only running a 6 inch fan above the light for circulation. I have not used the exhaust, I think the idea at this stage is to keep humidity high, any thoughts would be great. LIGHTNING I do have my TSW on max and lowered the height to 36 inches it was almost twice the height yesterday. I didn’t want to make the change so drastic and waited a bit before lowering the height. WATERING The top soil did feel a bit dry and a little moist under. Under the dome it still looks very moist. I sprayed the plastic domes, I’m using distilled ph’d water. I did some light watering on the soil but I’m not sure how much water I should be using . Now that I lowered the height soil should dry out quicker, any thoughts?

Week 15 for Gigi! 7th week of flowering. Gigi is ready for flush! I've flushed her with 60 liters of 6.0 ph'd water in combination with Final Solution. Now we wait a week at 40%rh 10 hours of light and high ventilation with the last two days of dark and then we're ready for harvest! Can't wait!😁 See you in a month for the full harvest and smoke report guys, I'm planning a good quality video for this diary 📸

13/08/2025 19:30 Sun came back strong with super harsh climate,so the plants are suffering a bit because of underwatering Gorilla z had a bit of defoliation with some leaves yellowing the buds are bumping nice Frostbanger needs some defoliation too but i think it's gonna be next week ,altough buds are becoming frostier and frostier Apricot and Coco milk handled well the bad transporting and transplanting Having some problem with insects as you can see Hope i can fight them with no problems 16/08/2025 19:35 Good moisture level the pot had some water when i came,the gorilla Z Is the only one Who drinks a lot maybe because of the 20l pot Finally gorilla Z Is frosting ,the buds are becoming densier and the smell now Is noticeable,straight tropical Candy z terps unbelievable for a guerrilla grow Frostbanger seems to have not the best buds to leaf ratio,but the quality is dank The buds are like an indoor photoperiodic weed and i think It has at least a month to go🤯 Smell Is very citrusy with a creamy gassy undertone Apricot auto now into the flowering stage ,the plant Is small but i think Is going to be good as It Is sativa dominant Coco milk developing good seems like i did lst but the plant did this all herself ,maybe 5 days and will start to produce flowers 2 Coco fresh just transplanted in the same pot,not the best transplantation i have to say,hope they handle well like the others Neem oil sprayed all around the more i can except on the weed plants Next week it's gonna be rainy maybe i will get no update

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🌱: Loopking yellowish, no burnt tips, so switch tp 2ml/l Supermix 💧 : 8l 💡 : Dli: 45 mol/m²/d 🤔:

6/4/22 - 6/10/22 6/5/22 Today I tied Harlingen branches to the sides of the tote with pipe cleaners to open herup eve more andI carefully places lst clips to arrange her smaller branches outward.Excitedto seewhat growth week 8 will bring 😀 6/7/22 Zam got lst a few days ago and has really stretched the past few days. I'd say she is ready to kick her room mates to the curve. This girl is getting biiiiig. 6/8/22 Today my girl is really getting her stretch on ad lovinglife. Her root issues have completely resolved with her peroxide routine. (I cup in the tote Daily and spray roots with 3% hydrogen peroxide to control root rot and fungus gnats. 6/9/22 Not alot of change today. But man is she a doll 😍 6/10/22 Can't wait to see what week 8 grow will be like🤗

So I started flushing this week .Next one will be harvest post

Purple Ryder auto has been growing good under the Medic Grow Mini Sun-2. She did have a minor issue this week. So I changed the solution and hopefully have her up, and going strong again. Thank you Agrogardens, Medic Grow, and Doctor's Choice. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Spülung 🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍾🍾🍾🍾 Bilder sprechen mehr als 1000 Worte 63 Tage sind rum und die Ladys haben sich wirklich easy entwickelt der Geruch ist mittlerweile so extrem das meine filter Anlage nicht mehr nach kommt die halbe Wohnung duftet nach cremigem Ananas caramel bonbong mit einem extrem funky Gras Geruch der so stechend Intensiv ist das meine Frau durchs Haus rennt und sagt es stinkt 😂😂😂😂😂 alles richtig gemacht meine Nase ist Mega zu Frieden, und meine frau stirbt halb 😂😂😂😂👌👍. Eine Woche lass ich sie jetzt noch laufen dann sind die Damen 70 Tage in der blüte und bekommen danach ca. 36 Stunden Dunkelheit vor dem chop! Euch allen schon jetzt ein fettes danke fürs fleißige liken und kommentieren bis nächste Woche ihr growmies......

Day 78 19/07/24 Friday De-chlorinated tap water today, pH 6 with calmag 7.5ml to 5L water. Updated with short video. I'm waiting on the lime to finish so I can flip these. So this is last week of veg for her, seriously 🤣✌️💚 Great growth and recovery from last week's final topping and lollipop. Can't wait to flip, the smell she is starting to produce already as just the base plant is beautiful. Did all final topping this week on all tops 😁👌 Allowing recovery before flip Day 79 Transition week for flower (Flip Week) 20/07/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with calmag today, she took 5L with 1L run off. Applied heavy LST as she won't fit in tent otherwise when finished!! Day 81 22/07/24 Monday Big feed today using the flower nutes now. De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 added nutrients. Checked pH again 6.2 after 20mins. I use advanced nutrients pH perfect for anyone asking. Noticed sex already, she is throwing out female pistils already 🤯 only flipped Friday 19/07/24. Smell is becoming more noticeable now. Glad she is now in the tent. Will update pictures tomorrow 😁✌️💚 Day 82 23/07/24 Tuesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only, 4L -minor small amount run off. She is getting thirsty 😅 Recovery this week is awesome from final topping I did last week. She is already colour changing her tops and showing sex pistils 🙌 It's a girl yo 🙌💚🤣 Picture update Day 84 25/07/24 Thursday Still no water or feed since Tuesday, it has been overcast last two days though so not a lot of energy been used. Still happy and healthy 💪💚