Cut

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Tag 1 von Blüte Woche 6 . Alles läuft nach Plan die Pflanzen sehen immernoch sehr gesund aus die Blüten legen jeden Tag an Volumen zu. Es bleibt spannend. 👽 vpd 1.6 ppfd 1000- 1200

Dos plantas (sin lst) se han ido a la terraza y las otras dos han comenzado la etapa de floración en el armario.

Día 77 y final para esta Wedding Glue que ha brindado unos frutos hermosos!. Manicura y cosecha para posteriormente secar y curar estas densas y rocosas flores bañadas en brillantes tricomas, fragancias dulces tipo torta cubren todo el ambiente y una pegajosa capa de resina me impide abrir mis tijeras con facilidad, realmente una sabrosa cosecha! Volveré después del curado para dar un informe de cosecha detallado. Buenos Humos! 👽

Freak of the Nature, the biggest autoflower in my life

Sorry for the late update so for that I included a video of my grow room. This week is the last for the horizontal growth and is is now going vertical. Can’t wait for that tall growth going forward.

1/14: This morning, I did a foliar application of big bloom and fulvic acid, then about 5 hours later I watered them with about a half-gallon of rainwater each and added armor si, humic acid, endoboost myco/tricho, liquid molasses, and a bunch of cal-mag. Today, I also I wired up and mounted my new samsung sun board strips (660nm/730nm) and my Solacure FlowerPower UVB fixture. I'm running the deep red/far red bud boosters a few hours per day right now, but will run them for the entire photoperiod once I start flowering them. I'll run the UVB for 4 * 15-minute sessions a day for the full flowering cycle, and if they don't protest too much I'll increase each session by 5 minutes and evaluate again. Some strains are more forgiving than others and I've got 5 different strains in this space...so really not sure much time I'll get away with exposing them to the deadly rays without damaging them too much...😈 1/15: I received one of the rapid led/growmau far red initiator pucks today. With the placement of my UVB light, I'm realizing I'll need another far red puck to have even and intense far red coverage, so I'm ordering another with Prime delivery and waiting to start flowering until I receive it. I sprayed them down really well with ph adjusted rainwater tonight to rinse off nutrient build-up from foliar applications. 1/16: I'm really excited to try flowering under 14/10. I grew photos indoors on an off for 15 years before I semi-retired. If I added up all the additional flowering time I could have done through the years if LED technology existed, I'd have had an extra truckload of bud to smoke. I did another application of Axiom Harpin a|b Proteins this evening, right before dark. I'm expecting a big growth burst this week, leading up to the flower stretch. I really need them to trigger under 14/10 within 4 or 5 days🙏 ...if not, I'll switch to 13/11 and wait a few more days🙏😟..if still no pistils are poppin, I'll go to 12/12 and chalk it up as bad luck or varietal indifference to Pr and Pfr manipulation. 1/17: I fed each of them about 3/4 gallon of full strength veg nutes. This will be the last. I'll go with half-strength veg and half-strength bloom for a week, then go with full strength bloom nutrients until I start flushing them in 6-8 weeks. 1/18: I installed the second far-red flowering initiator today and got all my timers configured for flowering: ========================================= timer#1 - power strip with qb's and red boosters 10:00am -12:00am timer#2 - (dual/independent setting) sideA- 3-way cube with uva bars 10am - 3pm 7pm - 11pm sideB- flowerpower uvb 1pm - 1:15pm 4pm - 4:15pm 7pm - 7:15pm 11pm - 11:15pm timer#3 - far red pucks 11:00pm - 12:15am timer#4 - sub-canopy tube 10am - 1pm 3pm - 6pm 8pm - 11pm ======================================== I also did some testing on the timers and sealed myself into the closet to check for any light leaks. All good.👌 1/19: Tonight is their first long night. It's ON!👍 1/19: Looks like the FIM job didn't take on one of them..but she's got perfect symmetry. WIll probably have to just top her again next week...gonna be a tall one I think. Tonight is their first long night. It's ON!👍 1/20: I watered them today with about a half gallon each. I'm seeing calcium and magnesium deficiences here and there, so added some boomerang and heavy cal-mag-Fe along with liquid molasses, humic acid, and endoboost myco. I also foliar fed with big bloom and fulvic acid. That's it for week 4-

Jusqu'ici tous va bien !!

The Permanent Marker Auto should be finishing up soon

STICKY BROCCOLI 🥦 / ZAMNESIA & PLAGRON WEEK #16 OVERALL WEEK #10 FLOWER As the end draws close 👌 her buds have weight on them that's bending her stems always a good sign. Her buds have grown and filled in most the stem they are really sticky as I've mentioned before, and she smells amazing. Notes just dance across the nose. STAY GROWING MY FRIENDS 🧡!! THANK YOU 😊 FOR STOPPING BY AND TAKING A LOOK IT'S MUCH APPRECIATED!! SPECIAL THANK YOU 😊 ZAMNESIA & PLAGRON!!! STICKY BROCCOLI 🥦 / ZAMNESIA SEEDS

The photo version of this strain did nicely. It handled a newbie grower in a small space perfectly. I think with good lighting and more nutrients I’d have had a really good yield.

09/11/2021 Plants are eating well bulking up, a gallon each plant of 9-0-1C Only got pics of #1 today tomorrow will post Sunday morning photos,videos Coffee, Reggae music, and plants.

06.08. Tag 60 Die kleinen machen sich gut und die Blüten schwellen an. Der Duft ist einmalig. Die Tangie riecht so fruchtig süß. Ich bin gespannt wie sie schmecken wird. Drei Pflanzen habe ich aktuell super im Griff, eine mangelt etwas und verbraucht aktuell viel mehr als sie bekommt. Man erkennt es ganz leicht an der unterschiedlichen Blattfarbe. Bei dieser werde ich die Dosis etwas erhöhen ehe es Richtung Endspurt geht. Am Wochenende habe ich endlich meinen mittlerweile 13 Jahre alten PrimaKlima Lüfter ausrangiert und bin auf die 6“ Variante von AC Infinity umgestiegen. Ich bin begeistert. Gegossen wird aktuell mit 2,5L Osmose Wasser. Zzgl. calmag (1ml/1L) und canna bioflores (4ml/1L). Calmag bei jedem giesen und bioflores bei jedem zweiten giesen. Alle zwei Wochen kommt noch bio enhancer (1g/1L) von greenhouse dazu. ———————————————-

Great smoke, very smooth, no coughing! I smoke mostly joints, some blunts and occasionally a bong. I find the high very sativa like, it's mentally calming, I'm more focused and energetic. No problems sleeping after several joints either.

Hi guys, What's up? Welcome back to Queen Peaky's Flower Gardens We meet together again to wrap up another diary on these magnificent autoflowers We started working on the roots by rinsing them with only pH balanced water and a few little girls and Ready to be dried, preparing it for a perpetually dry trimming

WOW that was a much needed week of plumping up. What a wonderful difference 1 week made in the tent. The ladies are really looking healthy and beautiful. Absolutely caked in crystals. My guess/hope is another 4-7 days of plumping up, then a week to mature and ripen up before harvest. Hoping to see some color soon but the smell is wonderful. Smells creamy. 😍😍 Hopefully what I've learned and changed from the previous grows is paying off, they are nice and short, fairly level. Most of the flowers are in direct light. Was pretty worried and thankfully for no reason. Cheers to another week of plumping up 🙏🙏🙏

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ________________________________ 📅 D84/B22 - 07/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 5.0 🌡️ T: 19-26 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 8L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 The VPD rate was stable on the right value for all the day ! Great, and many thanks to TrolMaster Tent-X ! 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D85/B23 - 08/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 19- 24 °C H: 45-80 % 🌊 2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 I'm lowering down the EC as I see signs of burns on tips 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 I made a photoset with "Garlic Puppy" enjoy the pictures 😋. Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D86/B24 - 09/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-26 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little defolation 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D87/B25 - 10/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 22-24 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 The buds are forming 🚀 Today VPD was very stable 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D88/B26 - 11/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-25 °C H: 50-77 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 Added 8 pics of Nicole, the timelapse video and the screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D89/B27 - 12/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D90/B28 - 13/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.9 pH: 5.8 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots