Some of you may have wondered: Why do I use CO2 at average 950 ppfd μmol/m2/s (moral flow)? The answer is quite simple. Because of lack of space in some regions of my cultivation area, I simply cannot keep the ideal distance to my Sanlight high-performance lamp, due to some height growth of various strains. And so some of the main colas have ppfd values of 1250 μmol/m2/s and even more... So this is how I manage to achieve and compensate for such high radiation levels even with a CO 2 balance. And I have to say, my strategy to avoid various light stress symptoms works just fabulously. In combination with CO 2 implementation, my babies are simply unbeatably insensitive to light. Thats it! Beginning of 3rd week flowering: Again feeding my babies by 36 hours fermented potions of Bio Tabs Kompost Tea PK-Booster (15 g pro Liter) and added: 5ml Orgatrex/Liter 1 Spoon of Bactrex 1 Spoon of Mycotrex 1 Spoon of Mycco-Vital 1 Spoon of Dynomyco A little tip for those who are interested in small modifications that have a big difference or influence - on the result - effect - beauty - health - taste! Before adding microorganisms or beneficial bacteria or Mycorrizae and Trichodermas, please use oxygen-saturated water. On the one hand, unwanted chlorine gases evaporate and the small world of the microbiome becomes even faster and more rewarding in compost tea to sprout. Last but not least for this week, I would like to introduce my reasons, why I prefer growing biologically and sustainably. First of all, it’s something which suits very well in these times/days we are living now. Sustainability is a big need and task for our planet. 🌎 Nature means life. Our home, the air we breathe and everything that surrounds us. Not just today. Hopefully tomorrow as well. Maybe I'm starting to protect our environment on a small scale, but maybe I can also make a big difference at all. If you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change... I thought about what’s the difference, between Mineral Feeding and Super Soil Feeding. It’s very easy. Biologically Growing is a similar process than the natural soil activities out there in the lap of nature’s. So plants has to work and interact with the microorganisms and microbiomic communities in the soil. So the plants will never get lazy like the lazy ones of mineral feeding growers. If you grow biologically, you will feed the soil first and the microorganisms will support every parameter next to your plant conditions. And that will generate an unbelievable spectrum of Terpenes and Trichomes you will never forget. It’s the same comparison, when you daily visit McDonalds and you eat only fast food. How does your body and mind react on this shit for money?!?! May I invite you to think about it… See you next week dear Growmies! Have a nice Weekend and take care… Peace out! Addendum for Day 53: At the moment we unfortunately have another winter onset here in Germany. This means that I am forced to take additional heating measures due to structural facts in order to be able to keep the temperatures constant. After all, just tonight the thermometer climbs again to -1 degree Celsius. In addition, my exhaust air system runs out of my bedroom terrace and I therefore grow winter and summer with the patio door open. Well, sometimes I experience real weather-related challenges. But all in all, no problem... "Where there's a will, there's a way." Addendum to pouring out the fermented PK tea: I always administer half a liter of lukewarm aerated water with 3.5 ml of cannazyme per liter to each plant. This means that the "root machine" is not supplied with supplies unprepared and the nutrient solution can thus also be better distributed in the soil. Since I also work with cloth shoes, I spray them evenly moistened everywhere with water that is also warm before pouring them out from the outside. This has the advantage that the moisture stays where it should: in the pot! ... I did the math today ;-) We are still in week 7 until this Friday. And week 8 starts on Friday! OMG... still so much time yeahh! Today my Fast Buds Sour Jealousy and Sweet Seeds Big Devil and Dark Devil Automatics arrived. I'm looking forward to it. This time Fast Buds next Time Sweet Seeds. Love them too. Very beautiful genetics. Today a review video of the beginning of week 3. At the time of the pictures, I had minor signs of nitrogen excess. (Light peaks first at the crown of the roof and then slightly continuing to the middle section.) I then painstakingly racked my brains as to why this could be. I found that very slight dry spots had formed and therefore the root found small accumulations of nitrogen that caused its problems. But then, when I carefully homogeneously checked the moisture content in the substrate, the problem evaporated again. However, they had not shown any loss of growth rate during this time. Nevertheless, they developed as expected. They Strawnanas had no problem with that. In the end, I always have a hard time killing them. But I guess that's the way things go. We live and die. We come and go. But it's not there yet. ;-) Tomorrow is day 56. Tomorrow’s updating day! Can't wait to see their progress. Have a good time and see you tomorrow… 🏽🕊️ 🏽 ☮️🕊️

I might check out some other indica dom strains these guys have to offer. I was pleasantly surprised with this strain. These plants grow fast and tall. Responds very good to topping and lst. Great to grow, great to smoke.

Still going strong, no problems at all.. This is a time of struggle I want do to something but the only thing to do is being patient. Trichomes are still clear, smell is starting to become stronger, and they are already sticky as fuck :) UPDATE: Day 60 [f39] some leaves are starting to yellow.. but it should be OK by now. I will start with Nitrogen deprivation in a couple of days.

Gracias madre tierra 🙏🏻

Vigorous Males, Strong Clones, and Bud Formation This week was full of action in the grow! Two out of the three males are in full bloom, and I’m actively collecting pollen. They are impressive plants, with strong structures and large pollen sacs. If everything stays on track, I believe the females will be ready for pollination in about a week. Observations: All 18 clones have successfully rooted! Some have already entered the vegetative stage and are receiving supplemental light at nightfall to keep their growth steady. The plants responded very well to the light defoliation I did earlier. Now, the buds are starting to take shape, showing great progress in the flowering phase. To optimize this stage, I spaced out the pots, ensuring better airflow and increased light penetration, which should support full and healthy flowering. This week, I plan to top off the pots with more substrate, ensuring the plants have enough space and nutrients to reach their full potential. Next Steps: Keep monitoring the males and collecting pollen at the right time. Watch the females closely to determine the ideal moment for planned pollinations. Observe the clones' growth and adjust care as needed. The grow is on the right track, and expectations for the coming days are high!

Update coming.

Ahmad Terraman Dey 101

Saludos a quienes visitan mis diarios ✌️🏾 Me pueden seguir en IG: @elcoquigrow para compartir más contenido e información del mundo cannabico 🙌🏾

Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. A plant with both standard cellular respiration (occurring throughout the plant, including leaves and stems) and adequate root respiration will have a significantly higher ATP throughput than one restricted to only general cellular respiration in a limited way. Cellular respiration is the fundamental metabolic process that occurs in all living plant cells (roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds) to convert glucose into usable energy (ATP). It requires oxygen and produces carbon dioxide and water as byproducts. Root respiration is not a separate type of respiration, but rather a specific instance of cellular respiration occurring in the roots. Roots absorb oxygen from the air spaces in the soil to fuel their energy needs. Roots require a substantial amount of ATP for essential functions like nutrient and water absorption, as well as growth and maintenance of their tissues. The primary form of respiration in healthy plant roots is aerobic respiration, which is highly efficient, yielding up to 30-38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. Anaerobic Respiration (Inefficient): If roots are deprived of oxygen (e.g., in waterlogged soil), they switch to anaerobic respiration, which is far less efficient, producing only 2 ATP molecules per glucose molecule and also generating alcohol, which can be toxic and kill the plant. Therefore, a plant with healthy, oxygenated roots performing efficient aerobic respiration in addition to the rest of the plant's cellular respiration has a much greater overall ATP production and energy capacity. A soil without organic matter will generally have a low Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Biochar is often prized for its potential to increase soil cation exchange capacity (CEC), but this effect is highly dependent on the specific properties of the biochar (feedstock and pyrolysis temperature) and the soil type to which it is applied. High-ash biochars, especially those produced at lower temperatures and applied to acidic or sandy soils, can significantly boost CEC by providing abundant binding sites for cations like calcium (Ca²⁺), magnesium (Mg²⁺), and potassium (K⁺). Biochar is more sustainable than typical organic matter for long-term soil improvement primarily due to its high stability and resistance to microbial decomposition, allowing it to persist in the soil for hundreds to thousands of years. This longevity provides a lasting positive effect on soil properties, particularly by increasing the cation exchange capacity (CEC) over time, while regular organic matter breaks down much faster. Biochar generally offers a much higher CEC than coco coir, though specific values vary greatly; while coco coir might sit around 40-60 cmol/kg, biochar can range from tens to over 200 cmol/kg, with sources like Acacia wood biochar or even coconut shell biochar often surpassing coco's capacity due to its porous structure, creating significantly more cation-binding sites for nutrients, making it superior for nutrient retention. Needs to be charged similar to coco but at a much higger rate. But shhhh.. It's a secret. Ancient biochar-rich soils in the Amazon basin (known as Terra Preta) provide evidence of carbon stability lasting over 500 to 2,000+ years. Recommend a balanced ratio of key cations, particularly calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and potassium (K). A widely accepted general "ideal soil" cation saturation ratio is approximately 65-85% Ca, 6-12% Mg, and 2-5% K. That's roughly what I give mine. Can even add N in its NH4+ form

Chelates and flushed vidio show my hand feed flood it opens soils up and sucks air in Taking the dirty little girl down in the Morning!!

So I have spider mites. I screwed up so much i think this is going 15 weeks. Lost coast to the rescue! time to finish these buggers off

Wow she doubled her height this week. Grew 9cm! Got loads bushier too. She was repotted too into her 10 litre fabric pot forever home.

Successful regeneration has led to a new problem.. I don’t know where to flower her! I took a couple of cuttings of new normal growth to clone for now. Will take more cuttings as she develops further. She’s healthy and very cool. I apologize for the strand of my hair caught around her old flower in the video. Runoff ppm 1020-1150 pH 6.2-6.3 medium lighting

Day 15 Update : Decided to grab a tape measure to check canopy heights on a whim and discovered that my light was hanging 35 inches from “Cellie” Cereal and Milk . Wowzers 👀! So I raised the plant to be 26 inches from the light that I also dimmed down to about 40% . It works out that I can try to get the most out of the end of flower stretch for the older gal who shall no more than be mentioned for reference to accentuate the great glorious glamorous “Cellie”. The humidity plummeted after I did a major defoliation of the older gals so I adjusted the airflow rate of the lower in-line fan and the upper inline exhaust fan with the carbon filter . I lowered them both to the lowest setting & the humidity returned to “normal” Let me explain my reasonings/thinking behind my adjustments which are experimental at BEST. It’s worth also mentioning without having to preset a single thing on my 70pint Dehumidifier located inside this tent it is legitimately only plugged into my PRESET humidistat controller which is set to 50%-46% RH WITH an alarm on highs of 55% and lows of 43% . In real life what this translates to is when this humidity controller triggers the dehumidifier ON @50%RH immediately the fan of the Dehumidifier begins running. However this does not help the rising humidity that is occurring (it will reach 55%-60.2%RH ). Given a fixed amount of time , the condenser(atleast what it sounds like . .again, it could be anything) turns on . It is when this “condenser” “sounding” component begins working that the humidity IMMEDIATELY plummets down to my low point of 46% So to make a long story short the humidity gets vacuumed to 46%RH & the dehumidifier turns off, bc of the PURPOSEFUL EXPERIMENTAL TWEAKING making all air exchange fans low leveled the humidity slowly but steadily rises to 50%RH then the dehumidifier is triggered on but only the fans initially and the humidity eventually reaches 55%RH-60.2%RH & then the humidity gets all its hair snatched out by the dehumidifier and drops back down to 46%RH. 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 with all that said of anybody was even interested per my tents leaf canopy height temperature average good to great OR LITE GREEN TO DARK GREEN VPD for my temperature begins @ 60 & ends @ 52 which is kind of a perfect storm for OUR GIRL “CELLIE” oooooooorrrrrrrrrrr sssssssoooooo I think/hope . She still hasn’t needed watering since being transplanted, she should now ready and willing to stretch those toes and we need the opportunities to top water that soil a few times to make those dry amendments available to her . More pics of later the week coming as we go . . Hopefully . Diligence is a practice Day #17: giving her some water today, no specific amount just until she feels the right amount of “heavy”. She was given 3 different batches of water once ph’d to 6.3 once ph’d to 6.7 one ph’d to 6.5. She’s grown an inch in 2 days. Also swapped out the smart hygrometer system to a different brand . So far it has all the capability I was looking for but I need to run 2 more experiments to know for certain it lives up to my needs and its price tag 😁 Day 18 Update: she grew an inch taller nice 👍 The smart hygrometer system has reported/experience Bluetooth failures twice already(although I don’t know exactly what that means considering I purchased this for it’s Wifi capabilities ) I didn’t think to check it whilst I was away so I cannot yet say If it meets my final expectation/need I bought a soil ph meter & it indicates “my mix” is at 3.1 ph 👀 hmm 🤔 I’m wondering if this is a must fix or can I get by .eventually she will be transplanted and at that time I can use my new digital soil ph probe to construct her new blend moving forward but I am curious is I mixed another batch at 3 something ph would it matter ? In the beginning I wasn’t ph’ing any of my watering just because I assumed my soil mixture was highly acidic because of the 70ish pecernr peat moss base . I also assumed that it would be acid fixing for the water I put in it and therefore wouldn’t need to ph it and I did just fine just giving plain old tap water when thirsty until I experience VPD issues & in an effort to pinpoint what my exact issue was and how to fix it I of course eliminated all the variables and dialed in on my ph of my feed water and now my soil so it leaves me wondering does the soil need to be relatively 6.1 ph or is the 3.1 I’m flying at alright also . I checked the other 3 currently in here getting through flower & two of them are in the 3’s for ph & one of them is 6.2(the largest of them all) how ever she was the largest of them all always and oddly enough I mixed one big batch for them and transplanted them at the same time so I get two of them having the same ph as “Cellie” but the other that is in ph heaven is an oddball Should I top her here or supercrop later hmm I need to decide my vision for this thing Day 19 Update: ponytailed her youngest internode for about 16hrs she aggressively popped out of it twice ! It didn’t even work for 24hrs when I try it again it’ll be before the internode is so strong . Also rigged up a 16in oscillating wall-fan that currently being held with 2 zip ties , 2 rubber bands , & a smidget of duct tape and MAJORITY OF FAITH keeping it in place . The biggest plus to my added circulation is that I got the 16in fan for ! A win is a win . Pics uploads will be held for the next 3 days until the end of week 3 upload . Drop a thumbs up Day 20 Update : THE FAN FELL! But no one was damaged or injured . I re-rigged it . This time with duct tape , 3 popsicle sticks , 2 heavy duty zip ties & 1 regular strength zip tie . SHES SOLID NOW 😂 I did some solid rigging this time & have videoed my handy work . Also I forgot to turn my A/C back on before leaving the house so temps and humidity skyrocketed and swung for 9 hours until I got home . The temp in the tent was 84.4 and the humidity went from 42.4 to 57.5 to 42 every three mins. Day 21 Update : SHES A PRETTY GIRL. RQS says Cereal Milk is a slightly sativa dominant hybrid but the pheno of this particular seed seems to lean more towards indica I’m not mad at it ! I’m getting more stoked to see what she can do. She still hasn’t received any additional water since day #18.

I’ll update more info after a nice cure! Update: So in conclusion. Super easy Grow. She didn’t give me any problems. Only problems were the heater torching some buds. I put her in a 7 gallon smart pot just to see what an Autoflower would do. Well she paid off and then some! Ended up with 144 grams of some primo FastBuds!00

Flushed it already. Leaves aren't fading that much but the trichomes are developing to the right state very soon. So 🤩🤩🤩 my first harvest is coming soon. I would like to thank everyone so far for the massive help and encouragement the community gave through out my journey. Hopefully my next post is harvest 🤞 🌴🌴

The plant has settled in now, and it's beginning to grow faster now. The stem isn't as thick as that from the Banana Kush Auto I grow parallel, but thanks to the added silica, super solid and rigid. LST doesn't seem like a great option, will probably try FIMing, or maybe Topping. I'll add photos later, that'll show the result of this decision process. UPDATE: I decided to FIM the Fat Monkey, to increase side branch production. ANOTHER UPDATE: I might've taken off a little too much when FIMing, which turns it into topping, I guess.

I have ended the veg cycle and transitioned into flowering. I let them veg an extra week to get more growth around the inner nodes. Training is working as Daphni almost looks like a big Bonsei tree and most of the branches growing from the underside have curled up and are growing straight up. For the past weeks my pH levels have always gone down and my humidity stayed around 55% but over the past week of vegging the pH has started to rise over time and the Humidity has gone up 10% points to 66%. What caused that change in direction? will have to study. I have the interior radio playing the local rock station 95.7 FM. As for the roots, they are very long and new roots continue to grow. wondering what average root growth for a 1 gal container looks like. No major problems for now as Daphni prepares to enter the flowering stage.