The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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¡Estoy muy contento con los resultados de la cosecha de mi Hulkberry! Esta cepa de Royal Queen Seeds ha sido increíblemente resistente y productiva. Utilicé XpertNutrients durante todo el ciclo de cultivo y los resultados fueron notables. Desde la fase de vegetación hasta la floración, las plantas respondieron perfectamente a los nutrientes, mostrando un crecimiento robusto y saludable. Los cogollos están densos, resinosos y con un aroma increíblemente afrutado, con toques de pino y tierra. La calidad de la cosecha ha superado mis expectativas, tanto en cantidad como en calidad. A lo largo del cultivo, XpertNutrients proporcionó una nutrición equilibrada, lo que permitió a la Hulkberry desarrollar su máximo potencial sin signos de deficiencias o excesos de nutrientes. En resumen, si buscas una cepa fácil de manejar y con grandes rendimientos, la Hulkberry de Royal Queen Seeds es una excelente opción, y combinada con XpertNutrients, los resultados serán realmente impresionantes. ¡Totalmente recomenda.
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They've been in flower for a week now. ⏰ No sign of sex yet. ♀️ Loving how they're brushing out. The health of the plants looks well. 😄
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Okay, so this is the very first CBD auto ive ever grown. I grew it as a hobby grow, since these seeds were freebies from a seed order. To my surprise, this was one of the most beautiful plans ive grown. She remained small and squat. Topping her did wonders, since she had a dozen "main colas" as a result. All of the buds are uniform. All are colorful. She was just stupid easy to grow. I grew her in my living room for fuq sake lol. If you are looking for a CBD auto that smells delicious and is crazy easy to grow under artificial lighting, go for this one. I am beyond happy with the outcome. I will add more photos of the bud soon
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This Genetics are so clean. This is the best veggi I ever had. The weather was not good but my lamp is free and so I use this for bad days and some extra hours of light in the evening. Startet with a small amount of nutrients this week. I think inhave some spider milts and will buy some neem oil.
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I'm excited n sorta disappointed this is gone be my first harvest but I wish my buds was fatter i hope they pack on some weight I may be impatient over excited but we gone see
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@Chubbs
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Weekly update on these couple. One got the chop for some fresh frozen bubble wash and these two still have another week for the one and only a couple days for the other. They smell like a bakery and are covered in frost. All in in an easy one to grow and produces amazing flowers and yields.
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@Prilyfe13
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March 29, 2024 Day 43 This week will focus on watering and light intensity. Training is done for the most part. At least the structures are on point. Now it's just a matter of keeping the canopy level. So far everything looks great! There's a couple branches on each plant that aren't quite as tall yet, but they are strong. I expect them to grow quickly very soon. The plants are 14" tall now and will definitely be taller by the end. If I'm right, I should get a height of 24" to 36" total. Unless both stunt somehow, but I don't think so. Anyway, just by the health and current growth time and amount, I can expect some robust plants. The buds are going to be super heavy. Just by looking at the bud structure now, tells me I'm going to have to fat dense and sticky weedy do. I changed the lighting as I was scheduled to do today. The light was at 22" from the plants growth. For the week, I reset the light height back to 24" and increased the light power back up to 90%. The DLI is 44 mol/m²/d. PAR should be around 675 ppfd. However, as I said at the beginning of the grow, I focus on DLI over everything else. PAR is fine, I just prefer the DLI. It tells me more I think. As it's a new week, watering needed some maintenance. I cleaned out the other reservoir and filled it up with the new nutrient regimen. That includes the B-52 today and Sensizym next watering for when it gets here. I had to look up a good feeding schedule specifically for autoflowers and advanced nutrients. As the time is all wrong with BudLabs. It's designed for Photoperiods only. So things needed to be adjusted. For example, I'll be starting Big Bud later this week as it calls for week 2 of flower with a photoperiod. But the schedule I found makes more sense and calls for the Big Bud a week earlier. Anyway, it's a good schedule. Just makes sense. The environment will be staying the same this week. 77° and 55%. In the next 2 weeks, I'll drop the temp down to 75° with the humidity at 50%. Then I'll drop it weekly until I get to the final week. I'll drop the temp down to 73° and the humidity down to 40%. 35% if I can manage. However, I'm not all that worried about 40% to 45%. The space is extremely clean and the room itself is really dry. So no worries. So, now that the auxiliary branches are just as tall as the side branches, Banana Purple Punch B has an extremely level canopy. The branches have all caught up to the top and everything is looking great! Banana Purple Punch A is doing the exact same thing. They are both the same height. I wonder if that is the plants keeping up with each other. Like a reaction to the other plants in the tent? Who knows. This is my first completely level canopy for all 4 plants. Very happy so far. As long as none of them take off, we should see a beautiful ocean of fat buds throughout the whole tent. Grow System Environment: Temp: 76.0° RH: 53.8% VPD: 1.38 kPa March 30, 2024 Some notable information today. I'm very curious about this, so if anyone knows what's up, leave me a comment. Thanks! Banana Purple Punch A is taking in way more water than Banana Purple Punch B. I believe now it has to do with the roots. The bottom of the container for Banana Purple Punch A is FILLED with roots, while Banana Purple Punch B doesn't have any roots showing yet except for the bottom outside of the container. I thought the roots would have shown up by now. The thing is though, Banana Purple Punch A is still roughly the same height as the rest of the plants in the tent, but clearly is further along than the rest. Not saying she isn't growing, she is. It's just that she should be stretching like crazy right now and she isn't. The canopy is staying level. I will say that the Tropicana Cookies sharing the tent is slight taller and stretchier. It's ok though, the SCroG net is going up at 18" from the container base. Anyway, it's kind of confusing how these two plants are growing in such a different way, but not any bigger or smaller than the other. Insight please. Lol. Both ladies got a haircut today. Just clearing out the massive leaves that grew and some of the outside leaves to keep them in their own quadrant. It worked wonders. No stress, no issues so far that I can see. I also had to lift the light a couple inches today. The DLI was actually a bit higher than I wanted and it showed last night with one of the plants. A bit droopy before lights out. That tells me there's too much light in that one quadrant. So the light went up to 25" from the canopy. I could drop the power level, but I really like this footprint. Dead center of the tent is around 48 mol/m²/d while the outside is at 43 mol/m²/d. What a spread. Honestly though, I really want a bar style light setup. One for a 4x4 so it fills the whole 3x3 tent. Back to watering. Banana Purple Punch A got a full gallon today. She's drinking a half gallon a day now. I also realized the nutrient schedule I'm using doesn't have the Tasty Terpenes in it. So I started that today as well as the big bud. I also increased the Cal/Mag dose from 4 ml to 8 ml. Big Bud and Tasty Terpenes are both at 4 ml/gal. I also added this week's dose of Recharge. HOWEVER... The PH was Way off. Down to 5.4, so I dosed the shit out of it with PH Up. I got to 6.18 and that's where I stopped. The nutrients are supposed to be PH Perfect, but adding something slammed it down. So I'll start to PH before adding nutrients. Then I hopefully won't have to dump 3 ml of PH Up in a gallon of water. However, I will say the PH in our tap water is ridiculously high at like 8.2, so that may be a factor. But shouldn't the high PH balance out the PH with nutrients? No real clue what happened. It doesn't make sense. It definitely has to be one of the new nutrients. When I do another mix, I'll PH after each nutrient. That way I can see which nutrient is messing up my perfection. I've also read that a PH of 6.5 to 7 is ideal for the flowering stage. Is this correct? If so, how the hell do I get the PH to increase more? Or is my PH meter out of calibration? Damn, things I need to learn. Moving on. The environment is a bit off. The temp is kinda high at 79.5°. However, the humidity is perfect at 55%. Unfortunately the temp is throwing the VPD way off. It's now 1.50 kPa where it should be around 1.33 kPa. I'm trying to fix it, but it takes time. It should be fine by this afternoon. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.9° RH: 54.5% VPD: 1.35 kPa March 31, 2024 Not much to do today. The plants are doing their thing. Banana Purple Punch A drank about a half gallon from yesterday's reservoir top off. She'll definitely need to be watered tomorrow though. In which case I'll be adding the Sensizym. However, Banana Purple Punch B needs a reservoir refill today. Not first thing, but maybe just after noon. The reservoir is nearly empty, not enough to fill, but enough to be completely dry tomorrow. That can't happen with this system, so I'll have to refill today. I'd also like to note the lack of roots on Banana Purple Punch B. There are none. I'm really confused now. One would think the roots would be through by now. I hope they didn't just stop there. Hopefully I start seeing them in the next couple days. Banana Purple Punch A has roots through everywhere. Honestly, it seems as though growing in my setup with my techniques extends the veg time. That's the only thing I can think of. The lack of roots shows lack of growth. But it's an Indica dominant phenotype. Maybe the root system just takes longer. But she's definitely in flower. Still waiting for the stretch to start, by the way. They are both 14.5" now with yesterday being 14". That's not stretching. I seriously cannot have small and big plants together in this size tent. Maybe if it were a 4x4, it would be fine, but a 3x3 is much smaller... Weirdly enough.... and for 4 plants, there just isn't that type of space. I'll will absolutely implement the SCroG net if things get out of control. I'd rather not use it yet though. I still want to be able to pull them out and clean out the reservoirs and check over each plant thoroughly. At least until I need the net. But really only to keep the tops from falling over. But training has stopped for these ladies. I don't have anymore horizontal space to train them out. But I have plenty of vertical space. Maybe they will only grow to 24" after all. We shall see. Either way, I'm going for quality, so regardless of the size, everything is in order. Maybe they average on the smaller side. Still, they have really packed buds already popping up. They will definitely be super dense. I didn't move the light today. No point. The plants are very happy and reaching slightly. Just a nice little prayer. The environment is really good. Sticking at 55% humidity and the temp has been steady between 76° and 79°. Very nice. The VPD is happy as well. Grow System Environment: Temp: 77.4° RH: 54.6% VPD: 1.43 kPa April 1, 2024 Not much to do today. Banana Purple Punch A got her full gallon top off. I also got the Sensizym in so that went in as well. Also, I need to calibrate my PH meter. It seems to be reading low. Maybe. It's reading 5.4 with PH Perfect Nutrients. I also added a full 1 ml of PH up. It brought it up to 5.49. No idea what's happening. Both plants grew a couple inches last night. Now they are at 16" tall. Let the stretch begin! Banana Purple Punch B is just hanging out. Still not drinking as much as her sister plant, but still very healthy and happy. The roots aren't showing either. Still confused by that. I had to cut a couple leaves off each plant today. Just a bit of overcrowding. Like 2 leaves each. Not much, obviously, but it's still important to notate. And good to keep up with the leaf coverage. I raised the light nearly 2" today. It was too close, and the DLI was close to 50 mol/m²/d with the center being 58 mol/m²/d. Now the DLI is sitting pretty at 45 mol/m²/d with the inside being closer to 50 mol/m²/d. However, I have an advantage. The center of the tent is not filled in totally. I did this on purpose to keep the light intensity fairly even throughout the canopy. (I really need to get a bar style light.) The environment is pretty good today. It's a smidge off. The temp is cooler at 75° with the humidity being closer to 58%. So the VPD is slightly off at 1.20 kPa. It should adjust accordingly in the next few hours as it has been. However, the daily average is right on point. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.4° RH: 55.2% VPD: 1.31 kPa April 2, 2024 A bit to do today. No watering or anything, but I did some defoliation and raised the light an inch. Banana Purple Punch A got a bit more trimmed off than I had originally intended, but I wasn't off by the mark completely. So it should be all good. She also grew another 2 or so inches and is now a bit taller than her sister plant at 19". Not much, but enough for me to notice. She looks great! Roots galore, beautiful green color. Fat buds and a wonderful aroma. She is 19" and still stretching. Let's see what she turns out to be. Banana Purple Punch B also got a haircut. She definitely needed it. In 2 days, she completely filled back out and needed to be opened up a bit. As I said before, I have stopped training, so if she doesn't catch up, which she may, I'll have to lift her up to the canopy. She's 18" now. An inch or so shorter than Banana Purple Punch A. However, she finally has roots showing throughout the bottom of the container. Nothing crazy, but lots of them popping up. It should be a matter of a couple days and those roots should be pretty long and sucking in water like crazy. Maybe not as much as her sister plant, but much more than she is now. Also, I think she may end up being a much more robust plant than her Banana Purple Punch A. The roots took longer to hit bottom and that may mean the root ball is already massive. That being said, I can hopefully expect her to take off and catch up to the rest of the occupants in the tent. Like she's setting up to stretch. The light definitely needed to be raised again. It was all the way down to 22". I may raise it again if I don't see praying. Anyway, I dropped the DLI back down to roughly 45 mol/m²/d. It should be good now. But may be a tiny bit too high. I'll see what happens in the next couple hours. The environment is pretty good today with the temp hovering around 76° and the humidity at 55%. The average for the day looks great as well. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.2° RH: 58.2% VPD: 1.18 kPa April 3, 2024 Today has been enlightening. The plants weren't reaching this morning. That meant the light was too close. So I lifted it up AGAIN. I'm running out of space between the light and the exhaust fan. I still have a good 6" or so left. I can also lower the power level if need be. Both ladies got reservoir refills today. Banana Purple Punch A was still a out half full, but Banana Purple Punch B was empty. So now that they are the same level and seem to be drinking roughly the same amount now, they should drink evenly now. Banana Purple Punch A is about 21" with Banana Purple Punch B slightly behind at 20". Either way, they are growing quite nicely. The stretch is in full swing now. I may have to put the SCroG up afterall. Some of the tops in the canopy are starting to take off. I'll install it tomorrow when my side bar support gets here. The lighting, as I said, needed to be raised up again. The DLI was up to 50 mol/m²/d and now I have it back down to 45 mol/m²/d. I also have the light distance just above to 24". Should be good for now. The environment is a bit off today. It's raining and the humidity is a bit high even with the dehumidifier on. The humidity is stuck around 59% with the temp staying around 75°. Hopefully it adjusts in the next couple hours. I may have to turn my main dehumidifier on. It doesn't work the best, but it should be fine. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.6° RH: 56.2% VPD: 1.29 kPa April 4, 2024 Not a lot going on today. I got my side bars in and mounted the SCroG net. Some of the tops are noticably taller than the others, so they needed to be taken care of. No watering today. The reservoirs still have water in them. They might not need water tomorrow. I'll see how things go. I didn't move the light today as I am pushing the tops down some. I may have to turn the power down a bit if they stretch as tall as I hope, but that would be a good thing. I'll just make sure to use the supplemental lighting I have for the tent. The environment is actually pretty good today. The temp is 76° and the humidity is at 55%. The VPD is basically perfect at 1.33 kPa. So everything looks pretty good from here. I'll start dropping the humidity down more in a week or so. Just after the stretch. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.5° RH: 54.8% VPD: 1.33 kPa
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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This week was bright and warm. The fan leaves started to turn purple, I added a bit of Bio-Grow to help it last until the harvest. The trichomes are cloudy overall. Next week will be the harvest 😎
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👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 28 of Flowering with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍shes finally done with her stretching 👌 and building Budz 👈 😀 decided to showcase pheno #2 , definitely has different traits then #1 very interesting 😀 thoe both are killing it 👈 Hedgehogs in full bloom 👈 I did a major strip , defolation is complete 👌 Except for some slight watering , ive been doing some defolation as well as some LST manipulation to pull branches to the side 👌 👉I had to Top her during the middle of 4th week 👍 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing
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Ok so we're on day 44 of flower and she smells amazing packed full of frost. one pheno will be done a week early of the 55 day harvest time. The other pheno is way behind and will be 7-14 days past the 55 day harvest time. One pheno has far spaced out nodes with foxtailed buds. The others nodes are much closer together forming bigger colas..
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The ninth week of flowering is now over and the last days of the ladies have begun. The stated 9-10 weeks flowering time is definitely correct. One plant of the Hardcore Zoap was ready a little earlier, but as I want to harvest everything at once, everything is left standing until the majority looks ready. I also preferred to harvest the plants a little more mature than too early. In terms of appearance, I like the Miracle Gushers flowers best, as they have a fine and compact structure. The Banana Creamz seem to be able to develop very thick flowers, whereas the Hardcore Zoap seems to have the lowest yield. I will be able to say more after drying and weighing.
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@jojopfoh
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This is an easy strain to grow. I didn't have to use any LST. I am just waiting on some amber trichomes and I will chop.
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Veo que las plantas avanzan lentamente pero seguro, tengo buenas sensaciones. Hay 8 puntas por cada planta.