The girls are growing and doing well 👍 Day 12 they no longer grow to the top, but their stems are still quite thin The nutrition was adjusted to the minimum dose specified by the manufacturer, each received 0.6 l rinsed with 2 l of treated water, flooded with 0.6 l of nutrient solution

Fed all four twice with half a gallon nute water, PH 6.3, day 43 and 49. Video and photos from day 50.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Only gave her water and Deeper Underground, not feeding yet, and has a beautiful dark green colour. Vigorous mode : ON :) Summer has arrived... Edited : 17/06

Hello, folks. The week went well. We are feeding at 1200 ppm and have activated CO2 supplementation 1500ppm. Day 25 - we pruned the leaves, topped the plants, tied and stretched the branches. Next week, we'll take clones and switch to 12/12. Thanks for leaving comments and likes. Special thanks to Zamnesia Seeds and Plagron.

🍀22/06 - Empieza su cuarta semana en Etapa de floración. 🍀Se encuentra perfecta sin ningún problema hasta el momento. 🍀Los cocos ya se aprecian más y están llenos de tricomas por todas partes. 🍀En su cuarta semana ya le agregue Top Bud que es rico en fósforo y potasio, ideal para potenciar el engorde de los cocos. 🍀Hoy esta cumpliendo 65 días de vida desde su germinacion hasta ahora. 🍀En estos dias seguire subiendo mas imagenes de como viene su evolución. 🇦🇷😶‍🌫️🍀Podes seguirme en Insta Gram como @bruweed_arg🇦🇷😶‍🌫️🍀

Hey here we go again.. in the pics I explained how to clean the lava rocks but to make it easier I will put them here. LAVA ROCK CLEANING. 1... fill sink with hot water and about a half bottle of hydrogen peroxide . 2 ...dump rocks into sink 3....shake out rocks from roots...I suggest you do this in another sink then add lava rock to other sink..it keeps from adding to many roots to water sink. 4....skim off all roots from top of water...now while the lava rocks sit in the water..clean the buckets. 5...take fitting from buckets and add to a cup filled with hydrogen peroxide let sit 6...clean buckets with hot water and hydrogen peroxide....dry bucket 7...take fittings out of cup clean off and clean inside fittings..then wash off and put back into buckets. 8... use a colander and add lava rock to it and run hot water over the lava rock as you move them around...then add warm..then cold water this will help make the roots brittle and easy to remove...shake off all water. 9...put rocks back into buckets 10 ...set room back up with all new lines... Enjoy your grow, good luck, have fun Smoke a fatty..see you next week Help out a fellow grower.

Pre flower formed, starting to smell a bit more than the last week, keeping grooowing 💚

Gave her a good defoliation this week along with spreading out the branches a little. Couldnt bend the main cola over as it is still recovering from the damage. Overal she seems to be healthy. Been removing leaves here and there and she doesnt seem to mind at all.

High GD community, Week 13, Both girls looking good, but when it get a closer look, there some browning tips on the pistils. Im not pleased with it, bcs im sure its no sign of maturation. There has to be a shoc or drought, lights? I dont know, ive dropt the output a tiny bit. But im not that sure thats the real issue. Ive measured the soil and it seems pretty cold. Like 17.2 and 18.2 celcius for the 1 with infrared heatingmat 5w. Im using less nutrients now 2, so could this be a reaction. I diddnt go cold turkey on them. But its a changer. They also start to drink more, and there was 1 day it felt all a bit lighter then normal. But deffenitly not bonedry. So I got a lot of questions to get some answer to. This weeks watering💦 was at the usual ph 6.2 and only 1 feeding a week. 4 waterings this week. Thats it for this week Grow safe buds and feel free to check out my other ladies.🌿🌿🌿👍 🙏🍀🍀🍀🙏

d.50 a few spots appeared on the leafs. gave a 10 ml dose of bio p k and waiting a week before giving a dose of orgatrex and bactrex edit: d.50 i also gave 0.5 ml of calmag from Biobizz edit d.53 will i be giving her the orgatrex and bactrex treatment ✌️🌞 d.53 she got 20 ml orgatrex, 1g of bactrex and 0.5 ml of biobizz calmag d.54 added scrog and did lst with clips to even out the height and space… still need to adjust it.

Salutations, fellow cultivators! It's time for the First Week Flower Report on our radiant Epsilon F1, and the journey of green glory continues. We've reached Week 5 from seed, and let me tell you, our botanical champion is stealing the spotlight. The transition to flowering has been nothing short of a magical metamorphosis. Our Epsilon F1, still in the prime of her youth, is taking on the dual role of vegging and flowering simultaneously. It's like she's performing a botanical juggling act, and she's doing it with flair and finesse. The bending saga continues as we guide her through this phase, ensuring she stays low and wide. It's a dance of cultivation, a choreography of growth that keeps our green queen in perfect harmony with the fabric pot. The benefits of this technique are unfolding like petals, promoting an even canopy and maximizing light exposure for a future harvest that promises to be truly extraordinary. As we step into the flowering phase, the environment remains a haven of stability. Room temperatures and humidity are unwavering, providing the optimal conditions for our Epsilon F1 to embark on this blooming adventure. Now, let's talk nutrients! The Aptus Holland super soil mix is still the backbone of our feeding regimen. Micromix Soil, Substrate Buffer Powder, All-in-One Pellet – it's the nutritional symphony that keeps our plant well-fed and flourishing. Mycor Mix, the microbial maestro, continues its support in the root zone, ensuring our Epsilon F1 has a thriving community of microorganisms by her side. In the spirit of continuity, we've introduced a touch of Foliar Applied Liquid Fertilizer, NutriSpray, into the routine. This foliar feast is like a gentle rain of nutrients, providing an extra layer of care during this crucial flowering phase. Our Epsilon F1 is not just a plant; she's a botanical champion, and she's proving it with every leaf and bud. Shout-outs to Royal Queen Seeds for the genetics that keep on giving, and a heartfelt salute to Aptus Holland for crafting nutrients that transform our grow space into a sanctuary of green excellence. Stay tuned, dear readers, as we witness the unfolding chapters of the Epsilon F1 saga. Happy growing, and may your gardens be forever green! As always thank you all for stopping by and for supporting me on this journey, i am super passion about growing and fell blessed to have you all with me on this new journey

My A/C has been not really working and it’s getting in the 90s outside not sure if it’s stunting it but have been trying to keep as much airflow as possible I have a fan below and above the canopy and the inline on 6-7 with no carbon filter or ducting right on top of the tent hoping it will be enough o keep the mold away

day 50 going well i think but i got one leaf dying is that normal? Day 53 need help I don't know what's going on

pistils are beginning to become orange! Buds almost full of sugar🤣🤩😋

Seems like all is in order. I had to go away for a week because of an emergency and luckily a friend looked after them, only thing he wasn’t sharp on was training and defoliating which is why it got so big and bushy last week. Still no nutrient deficiencies. I visited a website called cannastats a month ago and it actually breaks down ppm requirements for each element. Was a lot of work to get my spreadsheet to calculate properly, but really seems to be working. If anyone wants further details on this, feel free to DM me. I think the big stretch last week was caused by high temps, as a window was left shut when it shouldn’t have been, and also the light wasn’t in the middle because my friend moved the lights up and didn’t realise, so the colas at the back stretched more... that’s my theory anyway. Overall all is good, switch back to 3200k bulbs again today. Need a wide angle lenses to take a photo of this thing, she’s huge...