Noch immer keine beschwerden

Final dry weight report (details later): Final chop was on day 88. First harvest was 184g of top-shelf from 5 colas. Then another 5 colas brought it up to 300g of top-shelf on sticks — all from the tent. On the second-to-last harvest I took the rest, which added up to another ~300g including leaves. Flushed with Terra Aquatica FlashClean (before that I was running Overdrive + honey with the base bloom nutrients). In total: 3 days on water + FlashClean, followed by a step-by-step harvest and another 6 days just on water.

El proceso sigue "viento en popa y a toda vela" 🌬️🌿 Aunque me he encontrado un pequeño contratiempo, algunas hojitas están siendo mordisqueadas por pequeñas orugas. Si bien es cierto que sólo he encontrado algunos ejemplares en esta cepa, también hay hojas mordisqueadas en las otras cepas, compañeras de cultivo (Red Pure Auto - Sweet Seeds y OG Kush - Dinafem). El tallo sigue creciendo en tamaño y consistencia, por lo que no necesitamos los soportes/guías, pese a que ha alcanzado los 45cm de altura 🤩 Aumentamos la cantidad de agua, progresivamente, según van pidiendo/necesitando las plantas. Sigo intentando no utilizar ningún tipo de "ayuda extra", salvo la tierra enriquecida de CANNA Terra Professional Plus donde están plantadas. Seguimos con el agua mineral, luz solar, mucha paciencia y mucho amor!🤞😍 Aunque para controlar la aparición de pequeñas orugas he añadido: 20g de tierra de diatomea (Diatical de TRABE), directamente sobre el sustrato (1-2 veces/mes y se puede aplicar en cualquier momento del cultivo). 50ml de Super Kukulus (fitofortificante ecológico)/1 litro de agua para riego foliar, tanto en el anverso como en el reverso de las hojas (2-3 veces/sem y se puede aplicar en cualquier momento del cultivo has 2 días antes de la cosecha). Además, añadiré unas pequeñas tiras (Yellow Sticky Traps) para mayor tranquilidad, veremos los resultados en las próximas semanas! 💪😅

Grew in freezing temperatures my tent was barely 16 celcius,

Absolut ungewohnt das Zelt mit so abgemargerten Pflanzen zu sehen 🤣🤣🤣 Die Ladys von draußen sind endlich nach innen gezogen für den restlichen Blüte Schub. Sehen wie Crackys aus im vergleich zu den den davor drin waren 🤣🤣

Day 86 PH 5.8 EC 0.2 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20c Day 88 Wed PH 5.8 EC 0.2 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 19c Day 89 Thu PH 5.4/6.0 EC 0.2/0.2 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 19c Day 90 Fri PH 6.6/6.0 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 19c Day 91 Sat PH 5.6 EC 0.2 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 19c Day 92 Sun PH 5.8 EC 0.2 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 19c

Esta semana mostraron sus primeros pistilos. Aprovecho que subió la humedad en el exterior y que mostraron los pistilos para quitar el humidificador , ahora me molesta dentro del armario xd seguimos doblando alguna rama

OK, im doing an update now becouse my breakup cake is going tranny!!(hermie) I already have noiticed she was not growing as strong .. but u can blame that on anything , especially when growing outdoor.. but this morning i saw that she was g(r)oing 'bananas'!😢 I have put her aside from the rest (in the back of garden) but think gonna have to terminate her asap!..(and i will, right after this post👍) The weed she will give will be filled with seeds and those seeds will be hermies too, so wothless.. and if i dont throw her away quick she can infect the rest. So goodbye breakup cake..😢 who wants to eat a cake when they are breaking up anyway..😒 (just hiding my pain with lame humour 😳) happy growing for all ✊

Helloo, planties are roughtly 3 week into vegetative growth. Into second week our cat snucked into the tent and being the motivated gardener she is, dug out quick one and speedy chille, we put them both back into place gave planties some water, and with time they recovered, speedy chille got most stress, but being photoperiod, recovered slowly aswell, still the shortest and very loved. :) so everythings good Royal kush has the strongest smell of them all, few leafs we defoliated we grind in our hard and smell a deep green canna scent. Northen lights is the leader in hight since begining When planties grew 5 tops we topped them, began doing LST and a bit of defoliation, bended stems away from the lamp and taking off leaf that blocks light reaching tops. The stems hardened and remind me now more of a tree

She's starting under a seedling lamp outside the tent and the humidity is a bit low. I used a dome for a few hours, but decided just to let her grow. Won't affect her too much in the long run and I really don't need to squeeze every gram out of my plants.

Un peu plus de temp a former les Bourgeon . Petit prise en hauteur .mai pas énorme

she has 161 days outdoors .... and 98 days of flowering ... a lot of patience ... her smell is still strong ... a smell of mint. to pine ... the smell of indica is felt .. she will give some big buds .. especially her main crown ... she is a champion and fighter with the inclemency outdoor ... I believe that I will cut her on Sunday with 100 days of exact flowering ... but maybe ... I'll check your buds one by one ... I'll try more information ...

We had 8 straight days above 30 Celsius, below 40% humidity. Plants were on the limit and working hard. Growing outdoor is absolutely an amazing journey but not for the faint hearted 😘 I had to water the plants 2/3 times a day and manage nutrition in between. I was on the edge of overfeeding, some burned leaf tips are visible. They're not finished yet. But chopping window is starting. This week we have thunderstorms and rain. Plants are inside my barn now. I really hope for better wheater circumstances soon. Just a few more of those sunny days please :) We have 90% humidity now. Checking for budrot twice a day. Video is after 8 day heatwave, just before first thunderstorms. The super auto lemon Hazes are growing fastest. Some smell sweet and orange other are pure lemon . Very pleasant. Not provocative. Many phenotypes. These are relatively cheap local seeds. I'm still excited with these girls. So different but all attractive ☺️. The Northern Lights Automatic is going strong solid and is swelling. In looks it difficult to see difference with some lemon Hazes but the smell is distinct and recognisable. The Diesel Automatic is my lovehate. She is doing difficult from beginning and became a small plant with vulnerable leafs. Buds are small but megapotent and impressively characteristic. This strain is far more interesting and layered than expected.

Hi guys, what's up I had set up this very small tent to test my gardening skills but I have to admit that even on this occasion I outdid myself .. the rest I leave to you to judge

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Moin alle zusammen diese Woche war wieder nicht viel los. 23.03.23 Giessen 3L Wasser und 0,5L Compost Tee danach eine leichte entlaubung um den Luftstrom zu erhöhen und etwas mehr Licht in das Blätterdach zu bekommen. 24-26.03.23 chillen und genießen 😋 27.03.23 Giessen nur Wasser (ab gestanden ohne Ph Anpassung) 3,5L 28-29.03.23 chillen und genießen😇 Edid: zum Geruch der Moschus Ton ist weg daraus ist in dieser Woche eine zarte Karamell Note geworden die die Haupt note ananas küsst wirklich eine sehr leckere Geruchs combination zudem wird der Geruch von Tag zu Tag intensiver und es mischt sich der typische Gras Geruch drunter aber nicht zu aufdringlich! Das wars für diese Woche ihr growmies!

(Roughly) Day 83 from seed, Day 28 of Flower- Ladies are getting EXTREMELY frosty already so I can only imagine how they will look towards harvest! Overall extremely happy with how these ladies have done, have not had any issues out of them at all! Can’t wait to see what the bud looks like! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🙏🏼🌱

Smelling sweet creamy vanilla undertones of gas this the same girl that almost died before she fully sprouted