Getting chunky and frosty. Some very nice specimen in these. Lovely terps and I feel they are going to be a looker. Some colors are already poppin. And they still have a lot to go.

Es ist super heiß Sommer 2024. Nachtphase ist Tags und umgekehrt. Ich benutze eine Klimaanlagen.

My favorite method to germinate seeds is the 'SERIOUS' method promoted by Serious Seeds. I have almost always a 100% success rate with. Check out the video above for the process. If you hang up the seeds inside a wet paper towel inside a plastic bag, the roots will grow out STRAIGHT instead of being curled when they lay on a plate. Make sure the tip of the seed (=pointy end) is facing downwards inside the bag, so they can open up and grow straight down towards the floor. This makes its easier to transplant the germinated seeds into soil. When you plant the seed make sure the top of the seedshell still peaks out of the soil..this make an easier start for your seedling. They will grow right out of the soil the next day.

Green tiger la mejor en resina y gusto 🤩

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Última semana para la Gorilla Rainbow y Gorilla Banana 2, tardo en llegar el Flawless Finish de Advance Nutrients pero ya lo aplique 2ml por litro de agua en ambas plantas. Corte la Gorilla Ghost y la Gorilla Banana 1 para participar en el sorteo de BSF Mastee Indoor, les faltaba tal vez una semana pero revise los tricomas y ya estaban listos en un 40% La Gorilla Rainbow se desarrollo espectacular, sin duda alguna la mejor de las 4 de la Familia Gorilla BSF

Start of week 5, looking pretty good.

Day 13 since time change to 12/12 hrs Hey all together 😋. in the last few days since the changeover, it has already made a nice push 👌. She looks beautiful and it is fun to watch her grow 😉. I am very excited about Green Buzz Liquid 👍. I am looking forward to its growth in the coming week 😋. I wish you a lot of fun with the update 👍 You can buy this Strain at https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/kosher-tangie-kush/ You can buy this Nutrients at https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Kosher Tangie Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Kosher Kush X Tangie 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

Switched to 24h light cycle for faster grow. Added one 25€ 6500k 100w light for better veg. Took the warmer light bulbs away for lower electricity costs. Started to low stress training few days ago. Thinking about defoliation. Got the funny humidifier from my granny😆 It doesn’t work that well. Getting the right one soon.You can see it in the video. I ordered some things: Co2 bag, larger textile pots, clip fan and 50L light soil mix. I know that pots are getting tight for them and it seems that I have to buy larger pots from the local store bc shipping takes too long.

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Only adding water at a Ph of between 5.5 and 7…still No extra nutrients…switched placement of the plants because the Big Bang was starting to cone and figured the mist from the humidifier was giving too much extra moisture (Not sure how much sense that makes but it healed after the move so I guess🤷‍♂️🏾) Other than that everything was fine.

So it was realy fun growing this plant, i made a couple mistakes with LST and by choosing not filling up the pot all the way. This is why the branches where too close to eachother. I will edit this post with taste and high next week.

08/09/2020/ start of week 3 flowering, I think I'm seeing P deficiency? Watered her with LAB to see if it helps going to put a couple spikes of 4-9-3 around the outer rim, and water in with more LAB to get the microbial army mobilized.🙏

The cursed sixth week, I wasn't careful enough. First, a branch broke off near the base, but it's still hanging on the stem and fighting for survival. Two days later, another branch broke, but I was able to fix it immediately with aluminium tape. This strain is not ideal for my training. It grows too tall and the branches become very thick very quickly. Great genetics, but unfortunately not for me as I am very limited in terms of height. I will make the best of it. Light Power: 60% Day 35 LST Day 37 Photoshooting LST

🌱Day 30. Flower start showing some nutrients deficiency. I will drop down ph level and have a look how it is work.💚 🌱Day 32.💚 🌱Day 34.💚

🌿🔍 Week 8: Aroma, Colors, and Amazingness! 🌿🔍 Hey there, fellow growers! It's time for another thrilling update on my cannabis journey: 🌸 Aromatic Delight: As we reach the end of week 8, the aroma in my grow space is absolutely enchanting. The scents have intensified and become truly captivating. 🌬️👃 🌈 Vibrant Colors: The plants are flaunting their vibrant hues as the flowers continue to mature. The leaves exhibit beautiful purple hues, and The Queen plant is adorned with striking orange and red hairs. It's an absolute spectacle! 🌺🎨 💧 pH and TDS Levels: Throughout the entire flowering stage, I've maintained a steady pH level of 6.33. That's fantastic news! In terms of TDS levels, they currently stand at 750ppm and 1150ppm, providing the much-needed nutrients for your beloved plants. ⚖️🌱 ⏳ Progress Update: The Queen has proven to be a fast finisher, reaching the impressive milestone of 49/56 days. She's now completely ready to be harvested. It's time to celebrate! 🔥 🍪 Oreo Big Stuff: Although the Oreo Big Stuff was expected to finish around the same time as The Queen, it seems she needs a few more days to reach her peak. Hang tight for another 2/3 days, and she'll be ready to harvest as well. Patience is key! 🍪⚡ 🌿 Zweet Og: Ah, the beloved Zweet Og! This beauty emits an incredible OG gas funk smell. I absolutely adore it! The estimated flowering time for this strain is 63-70 days, and she still needs a little over a week to reach her full potential. Keep an eye on her progress, as she's worth the wait! 🕒👀🌿 🧐 Drying Dilemma: Unfortunately, I've encountered a challenge with drying The Queen. She's currently positioned on the back left side of the grow tent with a scrog setup, making it difficult to remove her without disturbing the others. It's a tricky situation indeed! 😬🌿🏋️‍♂️ 🌱 Future Plans: Despite this dilemma, I'm overall thrilled with the progress of my grow. No hermaphrodites or other issues have surfaced, which is fantastic news. I'm even planning to embark on another run with The Queen. I already have six clones ready to transition into flowering immediately after this run. Exciting times lie ahead, especially since it'll be my first time flowering clones! 🌼🌿🌿 That wraps up this week's update. Stay tuned for the final steps as we approach harvest time in just 3/5 more days for The Queen and Oreo. I have 5 days to come up with a solution for the Zweet Og's flowering space. Stay elevated and keep growing happily, my fellow growers! 🌿💪🌿✨

Day 50 - Starting week 8 and not much happening right now. Just watching the buds develop and the frost starting to come in. Still not much of a smell right now and hard to tell what kind of smell I am smelling. Didn’t do anything with her today but get some pictures and tucked the leaves. Day 52 - Thought she’d be ready for some water and nutes today but not quite, I’ll give it to her tomorrow. I did a heavy defoliation today and will probably be the only time I do it and will just remove dead or dying leaves from here on out. She’s definitely opened up a lot more so hopefully all is good with her. Day 53 - She pretty much dried up overnight and was ready for water today so she got 2 gallons of water and nutes. Seems to be doing ok after the heavy defoliation yesterday but still keeping an eye on her. She’s really getting frosty and smelly. Day 54 - Nothing much new today, just took her out for some updated pictures and adjust all the leaves and such to keep her opened up. Day 55 - Thought she would be ready for some water today but still a bit damn and will wait another day or two. Other than that, just took her out for some pics and tucked a couple leaves once she was back in the tent. Day 56 - The end of week 8 and had to give her two gallons of water and nutes today. As to remove a couple dead leaves from the bottom and just tucked the rest.