The weather is so lovely ... warm and sunny that's quite unusual for our area. The Quick Ones loving life and growing nice! My Berry Haze seems a little damage and stressed from the transplant to the wild last week ... I hope she survive this stressful time. The new seedlings also loving the sun ... Their will be ready for the transplant soon! Stay tuned and as always Keep Growing! 👍

So nach 66 Tagen war es genug ! Es wurde geerntet. ✂️6️⃣6️⃣ ✅ Die trichome sind zwar immer noch nicht komplett milchig, aber die Dame zwittert wieder mehr und daher kann ich mit halb trüb auch gut leben. 😁 Mit der langen Reife hat sie auch Fuchsschwänze gebildet und sie ist mir insgesamt zu blättrig...

Raising up this solo cup

El registro corresponden a los dias 28, 30 de abril y 2,3,4 de mayo Despues de realizar corte apical y algo de lst junto defoliación leve. Hasta ahora las plantas van muy bien, creciendo muy bonitas y con fuerza. Tratando de llevar todo de la mejor manera ya pude ajustar algo el set donde tengo mis planta y cada vez más contento con estos resultados! Ya hoy la white widow ibl cumple 30 dias desde germinada y la zinfandel 23.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Ich habe den Mikrobees auf das Doppelte erhöht und das Licht auf 60% gesteigert. Der Abstand zum Licht betrug weiterhin etwa 40 cm. Nach zwei Wochen konnte ich bereits den Duft von Cannabis riechen. Während die F1-Samen ein unglaublich schnelles Wachstum zeigten, zeigt der billige Samen Apple Flitter, wie zu sehen, ein sehr langsames Wachstum. ミクロベースを2倍に増やし、ライトも60%に上げました。ライトとの距離は引き続き約40cmを維持しました 2週目に入ると、すでに大麻の香りを感じることができました。F1の種は驚くほど速い成長速度を示したのに対し、やはり安い種のApple flitterはご覧の通り非常に遅い成長を示しています。

Going slooooowww as always. Everything is healthy.

pistils on this one start to turn Amber here and there in the buds are incredibly dense and Indica like fantastic very strong smell easy to grow no problem . Thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow.

Esta semana los problemas con las temperaturas sé agravaron a tal punto de pasar los trips de un armario a otro... pero de momento parece controlado farmers!🙏🤟🏻

WEEK 17-23 March. She's really too narrow now, I'm going to transfer her in a larger space very soon. In the meantimeI'm continuing with all the techniques to make her stay down.

Swapped the plants this week as I realized I could use the 200w light to cover both the smaller plant and the lower canopy of the larger one more effectively. Hopefully this will allow sufficient light to cover more of the plants, as the lower canopy of the larger plant was 30 inches from the light! Now since I can lower the bigger light to accommodate the shorter plant, I can cover the left side of the bigger one, lowering the light to 23 inches, which is definitely better. The buds don't seem to be filling in quite as quickly this time but they are definitely making progress! I am guessing about another month, but who knows? I'm going to let them take their time and let me know when they're ready. Other than that was a pretty uneventful week, as I'm kind of coming into the final stretch I have stopped the lst and only trim the leaves that are blocking bud sites. They definitely appear more stressed than they have been, with a lot of bright purple stems connected to the leaves, but to me they look healthy enough to make it to the finish line!

*Increaded PPM to 650 *Last plant showed sex it’s s Female. Looked like a male almost chopped it. *We Can say we got a 60% female return. *These are ready to flower but need to take clones first.

Die Pflanzen wachsen alleine 2 Wochen habe es sehr gut überstanden. Die Runtz Auto wird als erstes fertig maximal 1 woch Die zwei Northern Light Auto sind zwei verschiedene Phänotypen eine sehr klein kompakt Indica und einen sehr sativa lastige Es richt sehr süß

Sept 20th: (F34) Fertigation once a day with NEW recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 21th: (F35) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 22th: (F36) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 23th: (F37) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 24th: (F38) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 25th: (F39) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off Sept 26th: (F40) Fertigation once a day with same recipe (1300 EC 6.1 PH) watered until 10-20% run-off

It is on a heavy heart i bring this news. I don't know where to start..... I've had problems with almost every bug known to man..Nothing new.. I can usually control it... it's sad news I have to post ... My baby is probably not going to go as long as I want. I checked her Sunday 10/1/17 ( due to caterpillar damage ) ( moths are really bad this year in So. Cal ) She has suffered .. I found a small piece mold..buried in a cola. I cut the cola. You can see it in the pics. My worry is I have more. Every grower will tell you spider mites are the worst aka the Borg. But there not thinking of mold or bud rot. Which is got to be way worse . The mold comes from catapillar feces.. yah I know.. I'm just telling you the facts.. Now you know my worries. And they are big.. I will address this issue. It can only get worse... I am so depressed thinking about it. It is very upsetting. It is hard to tell you this. I almost feel like I failed. But I know I didn't. I'm sure not looking for any sympathy. Please .. It won't help. I will make the decision on what to do when i have more information which will be Friday night for me. I will then decide my action. To harvest all , part, or clean out colas by opening them up. Every grow has it's problems.. Outdoor problems are so much different. This has to be one of the most beautiful trees I have ever grown. Just good genitcs. The pics do not do her justice. Trust me on this one.. Thanks for listening. 😔

Gracias al equipo de AnesiaSeeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Oracle Octane: Oracle Octane es una cepa altamente potente y con un alto contenido de THC elaborada a partir de una Blackberry Octane seleccionada, excepcionalmente rica en THC y aromática, y de la pesada Blackberry Oracle, inédita, de nuestro propio acervo genético. El desarrollo de esta carismática e impresionante variedad abarcó 8 generaciones y un enorme esfuerzo de cría. La variedad tiene un sabor intenso e inolvidable que recuerda a bayas dulces y limones frescos. Las plantas a partir de semillas crecen increíblemente hermosas y sus hojas y cogollos a menudo desarrollan tonos de rojo, morado intenso e incluso casi negro. Esta cepa vigorosa y ligeramente índica dominante tiene un tiempo de floración de unas 9 semanas, produce hojas grandes y alcanza una altura de unos 120-130 cm en el interior. 📆 Semana 3: Ha sido una buena semana, ella ha dado un gran cambio en su lugar definitivo 😎. Se le ha aplicado un tratamiento insecticida con agua + tierra de diatomeas ( 1 cucharadita por litro de agua), también se le aplica un tratamiento fungicida con una infusión de cola de caballo para evitar futuro moho. A partir de ahora se riega manualmente con las dosis recomendadas por el fabricante.

hello fellow growers! it's the last couple weeks of this run and i couldn't be happier with the results, it's been a learning curve that shoots to the sky, amazing genetics that helps a lot, resistant and sturdy plants with a lot of terps and easy to grow, it's not hard to get to know them and they will tell you what the issues is and quick! they will let you know if sum wrong! they don't like PH flux and high EC (a lot of nutes). i'd say any of the fast buds line is a great starting plant for beginners but you still have the possibility to really cream these babies out and maximize yields n quality. i'm really happy and can't wait until next run!✅❤️ bless!! //Highone420