Hello Growers and Tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 Sorry for the delay on the weekly updates, had some things I had to attend but I'm back and at it! 21-day defoliation has come.. These pictures were taken on day 20 of flower Nice progress with these ladies, I honestly did expect them to stretch this much. They were pretty heavy on leaves so I did a bit of cleaning of big fan leaves and bottom useless growth.. I admit, went a bit too far with one of them. Should've left a few more fan leaves behind.. 😪😓 Other than that, things are looking good. Bud sites are more visible, sure hope they keep growing out. Stopped adding grow nutrients, only bloom now. That's it for this week hope you're enjoying this progress like I am. Have a good one! One love!

day 70 was harvest day !! really fast strain, 24h light ON really played a big role as well frosty buds and amazing strawberry smell, now lets dry it !!

Gracias al equipo de Kannabia, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 RS11: Las variedades de marihuana son cada vez más grandes y mejores, y la Rainbow Sherbet #11 de Kannabia ha llegado para revolucionar tu mundo con su extraordinario contenido de THC del 30% y sus terpenos increíblemente deliciosos. Con una genética 70% índica, esta descendiente de la Pink Guava y la Sunset Sherbet ofrece muchas características interesantes, como su espectacular belleza. Sus cogollos a veces adquieren una tonalidad azul y brillan con una gruesa capa de tricomas, por lo que parecen piedras preciosas cannábicas. Germina las semillas en exterior o interior, y prepárate para quedarte con la boca abierta. La Rainbow Sherbet #11 no necesita muchos cuidados para producir plantas robustas y vigorosas. Incluso los principiantes podrán conseguir un buen botín cuando llegue el momento de la cosecha, y los cultivadores que ya tienen experiencia no tendrán problemas para hacer que sus plantas rindan al máximo. Con un poco de LST podrás maximizar su producción, y tras 9 semanas de floración en interior conseguirás alrededor de 450-500g/m². Al aire libre, esta variedad puede generar hasta 500-600g por planta. El nombre de esta variedad augura un montón de sabor, y la Rainbow Sherbet #11 cumple con creces. Sus cogollos tienen un aroma extremadamente complejo que convierte cada fumada en un viaje aromático. Las fragancias que más destacan son las afrutadas (principalmente a cerezas y bayas), así como las cítricas. Esta mezcla va acompañada de unos matices terrosos y especiados y de un toque de pino. Tras unas cuantas caladas, los efectos de la Rainbow Sherbet #11 aparecen con toda su fuerza, potenciando la alegría y la creatividad, calmando el cuerpo y la mente, y ayudándote a olvidar las penurias del día. 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 📆 Semana 9: El engorde de los cogollos está prácticamente terminado y solo falta que maduren un poco antes de ser cosechada. Gran trabajo por parte de mis colaboradores, estoy bastante contento con este grow, el próximo tendré más atención en la etapa de crecimiento, la cual es muy importante si quiero obtener una cosecha de calidad. Un par de riegos más con nutrientes y luego agua hasta la cosecha.

Semana del 1 al 7 de marzo. Lo apunto aquí porque sino luego no sé ni en que semana vamos jaja 😂 Las primeras fotos y vídeo son del inicio de la semana. Hemos retrasado el cambio de una semana a otra, ya que por el lavado de raíces no las pudimos alimentar antes. Luego cambiaremos el PH a 5,8-9 y el EC también lo aumentaremos. Edito: al final no lo hemos aumentado porque respondían bien y estaban recuperándose. Respecto a la semana anterior, se ven mucho mejor después del lavado de raíces. Algunas plantas están muy bajitas, así que la luz para las más bajas está a 65 cm. Mañana o pasado aplicaré jabón potásico con aceite de neem a modo de prevención. La vez pasada, que era mi primera vez plantando, llegaron trips y al final resultó todo bien, pero si no llegan los bichos, mejor todavía

Watered for the last time on Thursday going to have them dry out in their pots for 3 days and them chop them down I'm thinking probably on Sunday. Also have been using ice and cold water to flush pretty happy with the colors and trichome production. After completing week 14 successfully the plants are going to be harvested tomorrow Sunday the 23rd, the first day of Week 15/Week 10 of flower. This grow has been really awesome and a great first experience at growing, I'm so far pleased with how the buds have turned out, they are very dense and the smell is a strong berry vanilla fragrance that smells delicious. Buds have a decent amount of trichomes on them they foxtailed a little bit due to higher temps in flower but so far so good onto drying and curing now cross your fingers that goes well I do wish I was able to bring out a bit more color in the buds though.

Thinking of pulling this whole run at this point, the stems are in a bad way and general structure has really suffered. FIM'd both girls this week & gave compost tea(ecothrive biosys) to aid recovery. Will make a decision on growing them out depending on how they respond. (Update end of week.) So in the first week these girls stretched terribly, instead of riding it out and letting them adjust I tried a trick I've applied with tomatoes in the garden and coiled an inch of the excess under the surface and covered it. After a burst of invigorating from the microbe tea(biosys) these girls seem to be recovering from the stress fairly well. The only down side, the stems have broken the surface and left me with these crazy bonsai style stems & the girls are very short and bushy, concerned the stems won't hold any weight later in life.. Will give this another week and make my decision TLDR; Don't interfere with nature when you can help it, especially with autoflowers. Update day 28 from sprout. Bbk1 showing signs of nitrogen toxicity after perking up, I had to use the bottle measure last week instead of a syringe. Much less accurate so assume this is the cause, just ph water for a while. Bbk2 perking up slightly. I did think these girls looked a funny shape and now I can see the stem properly its starting to make sense 🤦‍♂️🤣🤣

Added another late flowering video for your viewing pleasure. The tent is nice an colorful now, with several plants now showing purpling and yellowing. The first one in the front zoomed in on is Gelato auto and is actually looking frostier than Frostbanger auto. The one on the very right is Pink Rozay auto which will probably be the last to harvest based on still having a lot of loose white pistols. I keep checking the trichomes of Frostbanger since it'll probably be next to harvest based on the most mature trichomes. They're probably 80-85% milky/cloudy but I want them to be at least 90-95% before harvesting. Since today is already the end of week 12, I'm not waiting for amber trichomes to chop, and ideally not past weeks 13 or 14 which would increase risk of herming, potency loss, and/or light stress as I've seen from auto grows in the past.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Hey guys! Started week #8 Day 52 Sorry for not uploading many pics these past few days ago but you get it we busy and sometimes can't do much even tho we want to! Please check on the last picture at Day 50 and compare to new picture on day 53 You will noticed many changes! We also expanded the net and modified some other lights from setup. We've been good and theyve been great Outdoors everyday and tons of lights and love so she can continue to flower :). Day 53 Fed them medium hard 1710ppm /3.79g floranova bloom Only 300ml followed by 900ml plain water Plus outdoors from 7.30am til 2.30pm Day 54 Ladies are looking good Great day great weather All day outdoors til 6pm Now under CFL til 6.30am Then back outdoors Got some videos today! Day 55 we've updated our set of lights to a new LED grow lights 600 watts plus 100 watts CFL :) Day 56 It's already rocking their bodies Rich in THC Content Look at those crystals!!!! Day 57 End of week 8 Start of Week 9 coming up soon

the smell is just ridiculous. I'm pretty proud of that. the buds are bulking nice, they are very dense and I am happy with the amount of bud I'm looking at. I go in a couple times a day to manually move the branches around to make sure there is air going everywhere a little, I pinch a few leaves here and there. Pretty much on auto pilot now, going to start watering twice a day now one nutrient and one straight water. Thanks for lookin! Also. my week count is wrong, my weeks are based on 8 nutrient mixes i use, i call them weeks 1-8, i start flushing my week 9, but for reference, this grow, week 6 ends on day 45, I'm more worried on the plant then the calendar. I have a 70 day general target from Garden of Green, I watch and change my "weeks" according to plant. I won't lie this grow looks and smells great to me, the smell is ridiculous how strong it is! and I am worried I will find excuses to cut earlier, lol, but i will fight that

I will start lst soon

Sticky icky

Switched the autoflowers to another tent to give them 300 watts of led everything is growing fine

Day 58 : She started to fatten her buds. Also she has a small nitrogen deficiency. I think she will be ok. Nutrients added to water, CO2 stopped for all ladies. Edit (Day 62) : I watered again with nutrients, so to be ok with nitrogen. It seems that she faced the lack. I believe she will be that chop chop.

23.02.22 4 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic 24.02.22 5 день цветения. Вытащил проволоку, опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic. Делаем раствор на 4 литра воды: MGB=7,92/5,28/7,92 + Fulvic 8мл + Pro Bloom 0,8 мл. 25.02.22 6 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic 26.02.22 7 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic. Снял скрог и пообрывал нижние листья и ветки, немного перераспределил колы, заново повтыкав фиксирующую проволоку. Убрал немного верхних листьев, чтобы свет поступал к нижним веткам. 27.02.22 8 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic. 28.02.22 9 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic. Сегодня температура в дневное время была ~20 градусов, скачет напряжение в сети + забыл закрыть окно, а на улице - 5градусов. Полив талой водой 3 литра + 6 мл Fulvic + 0.6 мл ProBloom 1.03.22 10 день цветения. Опрыскиваю раствором Fulvic. Пообрывал немного листьев, освободив нижние ветки для доступа света. 6я неделя завершена - растем и развиваемся=)

So we are in week 2 of flower I ran out of Dutch pro and my hydro shop didn't have any in stock so I had to swap to canna 450ml A&B I've also added some bud blood. So today I did some defoliation to anything below my scrog net and tucked some of the bigger fan leaves to expose the new bud sites. I also raised my light a few inches to allow the ladies to grow into it. 21/5/21 The girls are growing fast I did some defoliation 2 days ago and I had to repeat today 26/5/21 Took some fan leaves off that where blocking bud sites only a small handful needed to be removed, I gave them a feed ppm 946 ph 6.3, bud sites are looking nice and healthy I've got plenty of air flow throughout my tent, have yet to notice any aroma but still very early days. That's all for now gays and gals happy growing and pleasant smoking ;)

Unfortunately what we never want to happen has happened with my baby.. bud rot.. on day 98 of cycle I found 1 bud with bud rot, cut it off, checked the plant and could not find more.. flushed the plant and wait next day to see how it goes. After 2 days main bud was identified with bud rot too.. so sad.. probably due high humidity in my environment + colder weather we are starting to have.. so on day 101 harvest it.. could go few more days to get more amber trichomes but decided to harvest it to avoid lose more buds .. I will keep watching it to see if no spread when drying :(

I have not done much, but change the solution. I plan to switch to flowering hours next update. She is in a New Level Hydro bucket, under a Spider Farmer SE5000 light at 50 percent. Thank you Spider Farmer, Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds, and New Level Hydro. 🌱🤜🤛🌱 Http://amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g SE5000 https://amzn.to/3qFpAML Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au Coupon Code: saveurcash Www.newlevelhydro.com Www.hygrozyme.com

Vanilla Latte from Huboldt Seed Company seems to be very stron strain! others still going very well...