Dutch Passions Shaman Meine Shamaninnnen blühen nun beide und es macht mir einen Riesen Spaß ihnen beim Wachsen zuzuschauen. Bei No. 2 habe ich Vergilbungen festgestellt, ich vermute es liegt an dem zweistündigen Tauchbad nach der Sieben-Tages-Dürre im Topf. Ich hatte sie etwas vergessen, der Schwarzkohlekompost war patschnass. Die regelmäßigeren Trockenphasen, regelmäßigere Wasserversorgung und die Brennessel- und Beinwelljauche, die ich den beiden Anfang letzter Woche gab, sollten aber schon bald Wirkung zeigen. Ebenso das Bittersalz als Magnesium- und Schwefelquelle. Der Topf ist mit 17 Litern einfach viel zu klein für die wüchsige Shamanin. No. 1, die in dem 30 Liter Topf lebt fühlt sich sehr wohl, keine Anzeichen von Stress oder Mangelerscheinungen. Die Bewässerung läuft nicht optimal aber ich versuche nun regelmäßiger nach den beiden zu schauen. Ende der Woche habe ich beiden Damen, vor allem Shamanin No. 1, einige untere Fächerblätter genommen und eine kräftige Entlaubung im Inneren der Pflanzen vorgenommen. Beide bekommen wieder ausreichend Licht, Luft und Liebe. 24 Stunden später sehen sie sichtlich erfrischt und glücklich aus. Der Mulch auf den Töpfen wird unter Hochdruck vom Bodenleben zersetzt, und die Shamaninnen haben schon längst mitbekommen, dass es da oben was leckeres zu naschen gibt. Sie Wurzeln bis in das Laub der Wildkräuter. Danke für‘s vorbeischauen. Bis nächste Woche.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

On Sour diesel bud sites are looking way too small for their age. I think its because under watering and over defoliation.

Learned a lot from this grow and am very happy with the results. Pulled 2.8 Oz and 1.1 Oz of trim/popcorn buds in a one gallon pot. Definitely wont be doing that again, but had a lot of fun throughout the entire process. Going to be starting another grow soon! Very excited for that.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la primera semana de floración de estas Frosty tooth de Seedstockers, salieron las 5 de 5, 100% ratio éxito. Aplicamos varios productos de Agrobeta, que son increíbles para aportar una buena alimentación a las plantas. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos dentro de la etapa de crecimiento. La tierra utilizada es al mix top crop, por cambiar. De 5 ejemplares seleccioné los 3 mejores para completar el indoor y trasplanté directamente a macetas de 7 litros, también cambien el fotoperiodo a 12/12 y aplique una poda de bajos, se ven bien sanas las plantas, tienen un buen color y progresan a muy buen ritmo por el momento, las plantas ya marcaron preflores. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Strain was easy to grow. Had some herms but since I only have 2 plants I was able to pinch the balls off. Buds have no seeds and are a strong smoke. Really hits the lungs.

+ data online : rakongrow.lima.zone/growme-godfeather-og-f1-auto-017.html Day 35 : all fine , hot but works with the high end humidifier :) Day 33 : looks good , today full watering with mutch drain to get all wet . Day 32: so , the summer starting , moved all to flower tent , change litgthcycle . now 13:00-19:00 night :) Day 30: to mutch nutrien , leafs got more and more darkgreen to purple shine . Day 29 : grows like her sister . +

Growing strong, no issues...

Sie riecht schon nach dem was sie verspricht.Die Trichombildung hat voll begonnen und nun muss sie an Gewicht zulegen.In den nächsten paar Tagen sollte der Blüte Dünger mit einem Verhältnis von 2-8-4,sowie der Wurmhumus ankommen.Diesen mische ich dann an die Oberfläche des Topfes.

7. Woche Halbzeit denke ich, North Thunderfuck Auto entwickelt sich gut, sie hat die Umstellung auf den großen Topf noch nicht vollends ausgebaut, die Wurzelstruktur und Masse war bei ihr in dem Stadium am geringsten im Vergleich zu zum Beispiel den RF3 Sorten von Fastbuds, aber das muss noch gar nichts heißen. Sonst bin ich soweit zufrieden, Morgen gibt es wieder Dünger 😊 Ich habe die Fixierung mittlerweile wieder gelöst, damit sie sich so entfalten kann, wie sie soll und will. Sie entwickelt langsam richtig schöne erste Bloom Ansätze 😌

Another good week! I fed them once on Monday. A final shot to boost them for finishing up. I am pretty certain they will finish within 2 weeks.I also watered them on Thursday and today (Sunday). I defoliated both plants earlier this week as well. For one, I needed to open the canopy up to help keep the humidity down but, there were a lot of leaves yellowing and turning brown. I was not feeding them correctly... in the sense that I wasn't watering enough in between feeds. There were excess nutrients built up in the soil and I believe that led to the nutrient burn. Also, this was my first and only feed without the Grow Big due to flushing for week 9. I followed the Fox Farm feed schedule... but, I think I needed to understand my plants better! I also believe I stunted these girls! One is about 24" tall and the other is 21" tall. Both on the very low end of the growth chart. Overall, I am very happy!! So much to experience and learn in such a short window of time! I've thoroughly enjoyed this grow! I look forward to the harvest and experiencing all that is to come! One last thing... Anyone use GrowBuddy and any word on what is going on with the current download? I've followed the drama around taking so long and all that (the new hardware soon to be for sale for 2.0)... but, the website now says the software is available for free and working on Macs and Windows.... So, I downloaded it last night and I cannot activate an account. Everything has a greyed over kind of look... So, I assume they took some part of their servers offline... Anyone know if this is accurate and has anyone else activated a new account recently? Thanks for any insight!! Peace!

Day 1 - 7 L watering with around 1000 ppm and 6.5 ph Day 3 - 7 L watering with around 950 ppm and 6.4 ph Day 5- 7 L watering with around 850 ppm and 6.3 ph Day 7- 7 L watering with around 850 ppm and 6.3 ph During this and last week plants got a few burn tips so I am starting to reduce nutrients gradually and will finish of with 1-2 weeks of R/O water. First Peyote is getting big and is growing new sets of white hairs, Both Cheeses is much smaller and less frosty while Second Peyote is having lots of orange hairs and by the looks of it is only a few weeks away. Still Hoping to harvest all at the same time and will try to time the harvest in that timeframe so all plants are ready. So around 3-4 more weeks seems to be the case.

Harvested a little early. But about 70% milky and some clear and dark. I have it drying now. About 50% humidity but it goes up and down. 181 grams from 3 plants in my 4X4 with a TSW2000. I didn't expect to get that much on my first try. This sour joker x sour ghost is the real deal. It's not hell's OG unreal but it's a nice smoke and gets me rocked.

Nach 70 Tagen wurde die Beleuchtungsdauer um 1,5 Std pro Tag reduziert und die Lichtintensität darauf angepasst. Zu Blütetag 1 läuft die EVO5 auf 90%, zu Blütetag 4 auf 95%

Very easy to harvest. Dried and was very fruity, no bush whack smell. Wasn't expecting it. As the dry time was long. And the buds super huge and in abundance. Was a very early addition to my crop (50 odd plants) this was done in my 1st phase of 10-15 plants. And I still have a good amount of it. And really looking forward to adding a smoke review next month with bud shots. Update 3 months later. My mate back sent me back 22ml of D9 Distillate, about 95-100% THC 0-5% CBD, I fill carts and use 15-20% resin or natural flavours. Flavours THC BOMB (ORANGE+LEMONS 10%-90% D9) 3 carts Super lemon haze 15-20% SLH rosin 60-70 D9 resin 6 carts. + 5-10% of 1000mg 30% CBD SUPER LEMON HAZE cbd oil. As I couldn't get the burn right on the 1st attempt. D9 was too thick and a nightmare to mix. Bubbles did build up to fast while vaping and wouldnt settle. It's a really great way to make strong vape juice from strong but, not your favourite weed. There's no flavour to it until you add rosin or natural flavours or ratio of good CBD oil. D9 is hard to make. It's much easier to source and then if you grow weed. You can press some to get rosin & add flavours that way or buy flavours. (Need to be potent and D9 mix friendly, works a lot easier) vaping is a huge part of my intake. And I was sick of buying shit carts & D vapes. So, I'm making my own. (With help on the D9 process)