I think she is a beautiful strain, but man is it a pain in the ass to trim here and there, and to LST. Her stems were always very fragile no matter what i did, not to break but to bend. Stayed short, and grew bushy, I couldn't get them to strengthen up. But overall I would say its pretty to look at and grows densely and might be worth a try.

so the development on this lady has been VERY slow and has made very little bud production at all she also did not really stretch out at all from flower her buds are at the same stage at week 7 then the blackberry was at week 2 really , she is showing nor has all her life of any deficiencies what so ever , she has stay very short and stocky with good leave production " before i defoliated she was a real nice little bush " she smell amazing and the only was i can describe it when i touch her sugar leaves is exactly like chewing on the lemon "yellow" skittles sweet so can see exactly where the name came from for this strain. she as you would expect has not been drinking a great deal and i am still able too only feed her 8 pint of feed per week where as her sisters are taking 14 pints , but other than her staying small and not wanting too really produce yet she has been easy too grow even for a newbie such as my self and has been trouble free ,

Week 3 no nuts only water and rain water.

Light experimental LST throughout the week. Started getting signs of root rot on 7/3/2023. The res had started to smell like a pond, and the roots were browning heavily. Added 35mL of 3% H2O2 to the reservoir, followed by a double dose (~16mL) of Hydroguard

The plants are waiting for warmer weather to finally realise their potential outside. Unfortunately, it will remain very cold this week with sub-zero temperatures at night. There are no recognisable diseases, I just think they are a bit stalky. They don't need much water because evaporation is low.

Growing great! Very uniform and vigorous, resilient to my inexperience beautiful large green fan leaves

led grow light expert

Buenas a tod@s... Décima semana de floración de estás runtz x layer cake, décima y última semana, ya pueden despedirse, la semana q viene ya entran a poda, está semana un buen lavado de raíces un poco de defoliación y listo, la planta tiene cogollos compactos y pesados, buen aroma, bastante recina... A mí me gustan, aún q no tengan buen aspecto, no juzguemos las apariencias 😉 tiene muy buena pinta, contento con el resultado pero a seguir mejorando... Buenos humos para tod@s 💨💨💨😎⚕️ 🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦

One plant finished very Early. The other plants are starting have amber trichomes

Hola amigos arrancamos nuevo cultivito, por ahora os traigo los videos que subo a YT como ya sabéis le estoy dando caña al canal, buscarme allí, me llamo como aquí, xmackobox. Poco mas, se empezaron a germinar el día 14/02/24. Algunas se pasaron a maceta el día 16, otras en 17 y se terminaron de plantar en maceta definitiva de 11 L el día 18/02/24. Para la primera semana de crecimiento ya meto fotos detalle de todas. **ACTUALIZADO** 26/02/24 llevamos 12 días desde que se empezó a germinar, todas brotadas perfectas excepto 1 que como veis parece atrofiada o con algún problema, no desarrolla el ojo principal es decir su punta apical. Esperaremos a ver que hace esta plantita :D

she's outside all the time 🌞 Day 99: watered with rain water and 1 ml/l Cal Mag 👌🏻 Day 101: Flushed her today with rain water 👌🏻 Day 103: did nothing today: she's waiting for harvest

I harvested a week earlier , because I spotted some minor bud rot in lower branches. I don't know why, bud I could not see any sign of bud rot in the bigger buds. I just found them , because I found some twisted sugar leaves, which is in most causes a bullet proof sign. The plant overall seemed to be in a pretty good condition, with minor nitrogen deficiency and some potassium/phosphorus. The last to, I should have added a small amount more, to make the buds a bit more dense, but the current state is ok. Although , it was a complete outdoor grow, pushing bud density would probably have gotten to a more a more bud rot state. This plant is really easy to grow, she almost runs for itself and does need little to no care. I chose a big pot , 25 liters , added 12 liter of light Mix and filled the rest with Coco and perlite. After that, I barely added nutrients and just waited for signs of deficiency, which barely occurred. Aroma: The aroma ist very sweet and some kind of fruity, but not generic , it is outstanding in its own kind of way. You're definitely missing lemon scents, but I think it's more of orange . There are no signs of earthy , peppery or stinky smells. Just pure sweet fruit. Unfortunately it means, I can not smell " cookies". But I thing this also happens to a lot of " cookie" strains and is often exaggerated, if claimed. I hung her up in my whine fridge , 16°C and 60% rlf for the first few days. After that, I turned rlf down to about 52%. She smells exactly like she did outdoors. Her smell does not hit you in the face. But if you smell it, it is really pleasant and calming. The smoking test be added , after I tested it for a few days. Overall in growing this variety, I rate this strain 8/10. I would would give this strain more stars, if I could really smell cherry and cookies. Unfortunately, the cherry smell combines more with the overall fruity smell, which makes it hard to isolate it. I can definitely recommend this strain to beginners, if they seek a user friendly hybrid with a guaranteed nice (bag)-appeal and reliable sweet, but not kushy aroma. A pro grower will definitely hit bigger scales, if grown indoors and preferably in Coco / hydro. I hope you enjoyed my conclusion and take it consideration, when you plan to buy some beans. Happy grow to all of you 🤝🌱

Two of the LSD25’s are starting to show their colors, one is quite small but her flowers are densely packed. We will see if she starts to develop the purps soon! They have grown quite a bit since, I had to tie down the top cola on one of the girls because she was getting so tall and lanky. I have minimal room to grow in so I have to manage the height properly since LSD25 can be anywhere from 15-35in tall from what I’ve seen. I still haven’t fed them anything other than, volcanic spring water with Fish Sh!t and Bud Candy. I’m balancing the water out with TnB naturals since the volcanic spring water tends to be either base or slightly alkaline. The reason I use volcanic spring water here and there is to add, calcium, magnesium, potassium, silica and tons of other dissolved fulvic trace minerals from volcanic springs. I usually switch between Fiji and Waiakea spring water. It sounds a bit fancy but I alternate between this and distilled/reverse osmosis. I only use RO/D when mixing with nutrients or when I’m trying to flush nutrients from my mediums. I use volcanic spring water and local spring water from an artesian well when trying to feed a balanced water with minimal inputs.

She is developing the fastest out of the 4 plants. Growing well this week.

Welcome to Ultimate Auto Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #4 2020 September 21st. - 28th. General Info: When planted: 2020 September 1st. Week: 4 Days: 21 - 28 Last Update Day: 2020 September 26th. Plants: 4 x OG Kush Auto 3 x Amnesia Auto 5 xAlaskan Purple Auto 2 x Blueberry Auto 1 x Northern Lights Auto Total: 15 girls. NOTICE: Check week 1 for full equipment list! UPDATE: I got 8 ltr. Or 2 gallon Spear&Jackson Pressure Sprayer to help me with watering. Comment: Welcome boys and girls to Season #2 by PoshGrow! So alongside my 1sq. meter tent I got my new 2nd tent and setup. So at this time i will be running 2 tents. Ohh, this week and the end of week 3 was rought... I ran into a gnats problem in week 3, read more there. The way I "solved" my problem was a huge mistake, creating bigger problems. Gravel I put on top of soil kept moisture inside the pots, so I manage to over water my plants. NEVER PUT GRAVEL ON TOP OF YOUR SOIL! 🤦‍♂️ NEVER 😂 Big shoutout to guys who answered my question in week 3! Thanks for your help and support! So I remove all gravel and let all pots to dry completly before next watering. They bounced back very fast. Also I did LST training on them and manage to break up that one girl which had biggest over watering issues. Shit happens I guess... Btw its one of Amnesia strains. I will update more info how girls responded to training next week. Stay tuned and happy growing! ✌️

So I had absolutely no ill effect on the plants at at all moving from the green buzz veg feed too the house & garden soil a&b feeds, I did not even given them a water only inbetween the two, I also went straight in with 50% the recommended dose stated on the house & Gardens bottles this switched happened the day before week 5 none showed any signed of defects or deficiency intact they exploded into life over night and then every day after that, I have been using the green buzz fast buds as a folar spry appied too the leaves of the early flower formation after lights out, They seemed too love that too and I also kept the note roots going in, I also started too apply C-RESULT at the fullbl dose stated on the bottle, The plants live this stuff if you have not tried it do it, I am not sponcered by c-result I was given this by my local grow store, It brings all the nutrients straight too the roots it states, All I know is this stuff triggers the plants too suck the pots dry in 24 hours, So make sure you have your feed bucket fully in order before adding this stuff as a mistake here could cost you, But get it right and in 24 hours these little autos doubled in size, It states too used week one of flower only and smells like a sewer lol I have today day one of week 6 Started too add house & garden Bud XL at half strength too increase next week and also I added there top shooter at 1ml per liter of water as 7 as I plan too removed all chemicals exactly as of day 1 of week 7 leaving me week 9 clean, I did not top any of these girls, I am training all the shooting tips too my scrog netting the best I can due too very limited space in the grow space, And am praying for some of the promised purple leaves on the fast buds Web site, I has on lemon pie this round that is 2 weeks behind the rest due too non germination but I am wondering if a staggered planting each plant exactly one week behind each other would give me a little more canapé space and the treat of harvesting a plant every week, Using the skyline 1000 only I did not too any of these autos 2 x strawberry cheese cake 2 x lemon pie 4 x fyah Sounds like a plan too me, Thanks for reading

Waiting for amber tricomes

Results that inspire and motivate you to continue with many more processes.

This is going to be one massive harvest hehe I can't wait , she is swelling so much its unreal , thick and super rock hard dense buds all over even the popcorn nuts are massive lol This is definitely a great harvest this year. Happy growing growmies.

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.